February  25,  189T. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
169 
autumn  weather,  and  the  fruit  keeps  much  better  ripened  not  later  than 
early  in  September,  late  ripened  fruit  being  in  every  way  less  desirable. 
The  inside  borders  must  be  brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state  by  the 
application  of  water  at  a  temperature  of  80®,  following  with  rather  thick 
but  tepid  liquid  manure  when  the  Vines  are  weak  or  been  heavily 
cropped.  The  outside  borders  will  only  need  the  protection  of  a  little 
rather  short  litter  to  prevent  chill  from  frost,  cold  rains,  or  snow.  If 
the  Vines  in  any  case  are  planted  outside,  their  stems  must  be  well 
wrapped  in  haybands,  otherwise  the  Vines  will  suffer  in  periods  of  sharp 
frosts. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Hrythrlnas. — A  bed  wholly  planted  with  these  in  variety  present 
when  in  flower  a  unique  appearance,  and  they  are  well  adapted,  filling 
isolated  beds  in  pleasure  ground  or  for  using  with  sub-tropical  plants. 
In  some  positions  the  old  stools  may  be  wintered  in  the  open,  a  covering 
of  leaf  soil,  ashes,  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  being  all  the  protection  needed . 
As  a  rule  the  safest  plan  is  to  lift  them  and  store  on  a  dry  floor  in  a  cool 
house.  If  started  in  heat  they  will  form  numerous  shoots  which,  when 
about  3  inches  long,  may  be  taken  off  with  a  heel  attached  and  placed 
singly  in  small  pots  filled  with  sandy,  peaty  soil.  Plunge  in  a  brisk 
bottom  heat,  cover  with  hand-glasses,  and  dry  the  latter  daily  to  prevent 
damp  attacking  the  cuttings.  E.  Crista-Galli  is  the  most  commonly 
grown,  and  if  seed  of  this  can  be  procured  a  stock  of  plants  can  soon 
be  raised.  It  must  be  first  soaked  similarly  to  Canna  and  Acacia  seed, 
and  the  subsequent  treatment  may  be  identical. 
Eucalyptus  globulus. — Though  not  generally  hardy,  a  few  young 
plants  are  of  service  for  mixed  beds  and  partially  filled  shrubberies,  the 
glaucous  foliage  contrasting  well  with  darker  shades  of  colour.  They 
can  only  be  raised  from  seeds,  and  these  should  be  sown  now  thinly  in 
pans  of  sandy  peaty  soil,  and  duly  plunged  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  a 
square  of  glass  placed  over  the  pans  hastening  germination.  The 
seedlings  may  first  be  pricked  out  thinly  in  pans,  or  placed  singly  in 
small  pots,  being  eventually  shifted  into  5-inch  or  rather  larger  pots. 
They  may  be  grown  to  a  good  size  prior  to  planting  out,  but  the  plants 
are  not  so  effective  in  the  first  eeason  as  they  are  when  kept  in  pots  and 
placed  out  early  in  the  following  May. 
Ficus  elastlca. — Where  sub-tropical  bedding  is  carried  out  on 
either  a  large  or  small  scale  the  “  Indiarubber  Plant”  ought  to  be 
freely  used  either  in  mixed  beds  or  grouped  thinly,  having  a  showy 
groundwork  to  display  them  to  the  best  advantage.  Old  conservatory 
plants  introduced  into  heat  will  soon  afford  a  number  of  cuttings. 
Every  leaf  with  a  short  length  of  wood  attached  will  root,  but  the 
progress  of  these  plants  is  slow,  and  side  shoots  are  preferable.  First 
take  off  the  top  of  the  main  stem  and  strong  branches,  preserving  three 
nearly  or  quite  fully  developed  leaves,  and  cut  to  a  joint  below  these. 
Dry  the  wounds  with  the  aid  of  dry  silver  sand,  and  insert  firmly  in  the 
centre  of  small  pots  fi  led  with  light  sandy  soil.  Fasten  the  leaves 
uprightly  with  the  aid  of  a  light  stake  and  raffia,  plunge  the  pots  in  a 
brisk  bottom  heat,  cover  with  a  bell-glass,  and  avoid  overwatering.  The 
side  shoots  when  about  5  inches  long  to  be  taken  off  with  a  short  slice 
of  old  wood  attached  and  treated  similarly  to  the  tops.  All  ought  to 
be  kept  growing  in  gentle  heat  and  given  one  shift,  being  eventually 
hardened  prior  to  planting  or  plunging  in  the  open  in  June. 
Hollyhocks. — A  packet  of  seed  obtained  from  a  reliable  source 
contains  a  good  per-centage  of  showy  varieties,  but  those  who  wish  to 
flower  them  this  year  must  lose  so  time  in  procuring  aud  sowing  it  in  a 
pan  of  fine  sandy  soil.  If  this  is  set  on  or  plunged  in  a  gentle  hotbed 
and  covered  with  a  square  of  glass  the  seedlings  will  appear  in  a  fort¬ 
night,  and  these  being  gradually  exposed  to  more  light  and  air  may  first 
be  pricked  off  carefully  into  other  pans  of  soil  and  kept  growing  in  gentle 
heat.  Before  they  crowd  each  other  they  ought  to  be  placed  singly  in 
small  pots  and  gradually  hardened.  While  in  a  cool  pit  or  frame  the 
strongest  ought  to  be  given  a  shift  into  5-inch  pots,  and  it  is  these 
which  under  further  liberal  treatment  will  form  fairly  strong  flower 
spikes.  All  should  be  planted  out  in  May,  or  before  they  become  badly 
root-bound.  Even  the  smaller  plants  will  frequently  flower  in  a  favour¬ 
able  season.  Seedlings  are  less  liable  to  disease  than  are  those  obtained 
by  rooting  side  shoots  much  as  Dahlias  are  increased. 
Narcissi. — These  may  safely  be  lifted,  divided,  and  replanted  at 
the  present  time,  provided  the  weather  is  sufficiently  mild.  If  this 
is  done  carefully,  the  tender  roots  not  being  much  denuded  of  soil, 
and  not  injured  by  cold  winds,  the  removal  will  not  interfere  with  the 
flowering  either  in  this  or  the  next  season,  whereas  bulbs  transplanted 
in  a  dry  state  frequently  fail  to  flower  in  the  Becond  spring  following. 
Clumps  of  the  common  Daffodils  lifted  in  the  woods  and  planted  near 
the  stems  of  Apple  trees  are  greatly  improved  by  the  change,  and  fine 
masses  of  flower  annually  result. 
GARDENERS’  CHARITABLE  AND  PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution. — Secretary , 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  50,  Parliament  Street,  London,  W.C. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society.— 
Secretary ,  Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund. — Secretary ,  Mr.  A,  F.  Barron, 
The  Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund,  Chiswick,  W. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
-J-- 1  ■  I  - 1 . 1 . 1 . 1  -T-  ry  r-  t-  i  - 1  -  \  •  i  - 1  -rm 
t® 
Doubling  Hives. 
If  “  G.  H.”  will  give  the  doubling  system  a  fair  trial  in  com¬ 
parison  with  others  he  will  have  no  cause  to  be  disappointed  at  the 
result.  At  present  he  does  not  quite  grasp  the  idea,  and  imagines 
more  hives  will  be  necessary  than  when  larger  hives  are  used,  and 
nucleu#  hives  are  required  for  queen  rearing,  whereas  in  practice 
it  is  quite  the  reverse.  I  will  endeavour  to  make  the  matter 
plainer. 
It  is  a  fact  well  known  to  all  bee-keepers  who  have  studied  the 
question  that  bee#  are  not  at  all  particular  as  to  how  and  where 
they  store  a  surplus  if  extra  space  is  provided  for  them  when  they 
require  it.  It  is  also  immaterial  to  them  whether  the  space  is 
narrow  or  wide,  but  if  left  to  themselves  I  am  inclined  to  think 
they  would  choose  a  small  insignificant  place  for  their  dwelling, 
quite  out  of  keeping  with  our  modern  idea#  of  bee-keeping. 
We  must  not  forget  that  it  is  quite  possible  for  “  G  H.”  or 
anyone  else  who  understands  the  management  of  bees  to  obtain  as 
good  a  sample  of  honey  from  an  ordinary  box  or  zinc  skep,  if  placed 
on  the  top  of  a  strong  colony  of  bees,  as  from  the  most  elaborate 
hive.  It  would,  however,  not  be  in  as  convenient  a  form  for 
handling  as  when  obtained  in  either  deep  or  shallow  frames.  For 
thi#  rea#on  it  is  advisable  to  endeavour  so  far  as  it  is  possible  to 
have  the  bees  under  perfect  control  and  the  necessary  appliances 
conveniently  situated. 
On  referring  to  my  notes,  extending  over  a  series  of  year#,  as 
to  the  exact  time  the  majority  of  my  hives  have  been  doubled, 
or  more  properly  speaking,  placing  a  box,  which  may  be  termed 
a  super,  on  my  hives,  has  been  more  often  done  during  the  last 
week  in  May  than  at  any  other  time.  If  the  bees  have  wintered 
well,  and  the  spring  has  been  genial,  many  of  the  hives  will  at  that 
time  be  crowded  with  bees,  and  if  the  quilt  is  lifted  off  they  will 
boil  over  the  sides  of  the  hive  in  thousands. 
A  stock  of  this  description  will  not  require  any  a*sistance  from 
other  colonies,  as  there  will  be  quite  enough  brood  and  bees  to  fill 
the  double  hive  when  the  honey  flow  comes  some  three  or  four 
week#  later.  Four  or  five  frames  of  brood  are  then  taken  from  the 
brood  nest  and  placed  in  the  top  storey,  being  replaced  with  empty 
combs.  The  quten  being  provided  with  extra  room  will  fill  the 
frames  from  top  to  bottom  with  brood,  and  there  being  a  sheet 
of  excluder  zinc  placed  between  the  brood  ne#t  and  super,  all 
surplus  will  be  carried  to  the  top,  and  the  vacant  space,  not  being 
taken  up  with  the  frames  containing  brood,  may  be  filled  with 
frames  of  tough  combs  that  will  not  break  down  in  the  extractor. 
If  many  stocks  are  kept  there  will  be  a  great  difference  in 
their  strength  at  that  season.  But  as  it  is  necessary  to  have  all 
hives  intended  for  extracting  purposes  crowded  with  b?es  when 
the  honey  flow  comes,  it  is  an  advantage  to  obtain  bees  and 
brood  from  other  hives.  These  weakened  itocks  are  then  used 
for  queen  rearing,  and  as  early  queens  are  invariably  the  best,  if 
worked  on  this  system  they  are  fertilised  and  laying  before  the 
end  of  June.  Two  or  more  queens  may  be  raised  iu  each  hive. 
This  ia  done  by  placing  a  diviaion  board  acros#  the  middle  of 
each  hive.  I  can  confidently  recommend  this  plan  to  gardeners 
whose  employers  may  object  to  having  too  many  hives  on  their 
property.  If  there  is  a  surplus  to  beobtained  by  any  means,  depend 
upon  it  stocks  treated  on  rational  lines  as  above  will  obtain  a  share. 
Large  Hives. 
Theae  I  have  used  holding  from  twelve  to  twenty  and  even 
more  frames  (standard  size).  Someone  may  say  “  What  is  the 
standard  size  ?  ”  It  is  14  inches  by  inches  (outside  measure). 
These,  however,  require  somewhat  different  management  from 
smaller  hives. 
The  ordinary  hive  holding  ten  frames  is  not  contracted  in  the 
winter,  but  one  having  space  for  twenty  frames  is  better  if  reduced 
to  half  that  size  for  wintering  purposes.  This  is  done  by  placing 
the  division  board  between  the  frames,  which  may  be  left  to  the 
back  of  dummy,  often  keeping  in  better  condition  and  free  from 
moths  than  when  packed  away  in  boxes.  As  the  brood  nest 
expands  in  the  spring  the  division  board  may  be  moved  back  and 
a  fresh  comb  brought  forward  every  two  or  three  day#  as  required. 
Hives  holding  fifteen  frames  are  quite  large  enough  for  all  practical 
purposes,  and  similar  treatment  is  required  whether  they  are 
intended  for  sections  or  extracting. 
If  the  former  is  desired,  as  *oon  as  the  hive  is  crowded  with 
bees,  and  honey  is  coming  in  somewhat  freely,  place  a  crate  of 
section#  on  the  top,  covering  them  up  warmly.  As  soon  as  they 
are  three  parts  filled  place  another  crate  of  empty  section#  under 
