March  4,  1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
189 
page  547  (last  vol.),  also  Lantanas  grown  under  much  the  tame  treatment, 
also  a  few  pots  of  Lilium  lancifolium,  will  add  very  much  to  the  beauty 
of  the  house,  succeeding  the  Begonias  or  any  of  the  annuals  which  have 
become  unsightly.  A  few  early  flowering  Chrysanthemums  will  also  be 
very  good  additions.  Not  much  more  can  be  done  anti  I  the  general 
collection  of  Chrysanthemums  is  introduced.  This  will  be  about  the 
middle  of  October.  The  Fuchsias  may  then  be  put  under  a  stage  to 
root.  Do  not  allow  them  to  get  too  dry,  but  water  them  occasionally 
during  the  winter.  In  spring  they  may  be  pruned  and  started  as  pre¬ 
viously  stated.  The  Coleus,  from  which  cuttings  should  have  been  taken 
early  in  September,  may  now  be  thrown  to  the  rubbish  heap.  The 
cuttings  having  been  rooted  in  a  warm  frame  in  4-inch  pots  may  be 
placed  on  a  shelf  in  the  stove.  Takeout  the  points,  and  they  will  then 
make  good  plants  from  which  to  raise  the  stock  for  the  succeeding  year’s 
work.  All  plants  should  be  cleared  out  of  the  conservatory  in  October. 
The  climbers  will  then  have  finished  flowering,  ami  should  be 
pruned.  Take  out  all  superabundant  growth,  retaining  sufficient  to 
furnish  the  girders  with  green  foliage.  Destroy  any  insect  life  which 
may  appear,  and  clean  the  house  thoroughly. — P.  W. 
(To  be  continued.) 
Begonia  Gloire  de  Sceaux. 
Few  plants  give  better  results  for  good  culture  than  winter  flowering 
Begonias.  Take,  for  instance,  Gloire  de  Sceaux  ;  if  the  plants  are  cut 
down  in  April,  and  given  little  or  no  water  for  three  weeks  or  a  month, 
then  placed  in  a  house  with  a  little  bottom  heat,  they  will  soon  produce 
growths  from  the  bottom.  In  taking  cuttings  select  the  stronger 
growths  and  insert  them  singly  in  thumb  pots  in  a  light  eompost  of  loam 
and  peat,  or  leaf  soil,  with  a  good  dash  of  sand.  Place  them  in  the 
propagating  pit  under  bell-glasses,  and  as  soon  as  they  are  rooted  pot  in 
large  60’s,  and  grow  the  plants  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°.  Great 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  let  them  get  dry  at  any  time,  but  avoid 
overwatering. 
Before  the  plants  are  root-bound  shift  them  into  32’s,  in  a  compost 
of  two  parts  fibrous  loam,  one  part  rough  peat,  and  one  part  leaf  soil, 
with  a  little  dried  cow  manure  and  coarse  sand.  Pot  lightly,  and  keep 
them  in  moist  temperature  of  about  65°.  When  the  plants  are  about 
1  foot  in  height  pinch  out  the  points,  which  will  induce  a  bushy  habit. 
Keep  the  Btages  and  floors  of  the  house  damp,  and  syringe  lightly  in  hot 
weather. 
Lightly  fumigate  the  house  about  every  three  weeks,  as  they  are  very 
subject  to  small  white  thrips  invisible  to  the  naked  eye,  which,  if  not 
checked,  play  sad  havoc  with  the  young  foliage,  and  prevention  is  better 
than  cure  ;  when  flowering  commences  (which  will  be  in  November  or 
December)  keep  the  plants  in  a  temperature  of  50°  by  night  and  55°  by 
•day,  and  they  will  afford  a  display  of  bloom  equalled  by  very  few 
.plants,  and  lasting  four  months, — F.  T.  W. 
Croton  Culture. 
These  beautiful  foliage  plants  rank  among  the  best  for  decorative 
ipurposes.  Plants  now  in  5  and  6-inch  pots  may  be  shifted  into  others 
two  sizes  larger,  using  a  compost  of  two  parts  fibry  loam,  one  of  rough 
peat,  and  half  a  part  of  coarse  silver  sand.  Do  not  reduce  the  balls  too 
much  at  this  season,  the  removal  of  the  old  crocks  and  the  surface  soil 
being  quite  sufficient.  Withhold  water  until  the  roots  begin  to  move, 
but  use  the  syringe  freely.  Any  plants  which  have  become  tall  but 
have  good  tops  may  have  these  rooted  by  cutting  a  notch  or  two  in  the 
•stem  close  to  the  foliage,  and  binding  round  into  a  ball  with  sphagnum 
moss,  placing  a  little  sand  in  it  to  come  in  contact  with  the  notch, 
and  keeping  moist.  This  helps  the  rooting  process. 
When  roots  are  emitted  the  stem  may  be  cut  through  close  to  the 
moss.  Without  disturbing  the  roots  place  in  pots  suitable  to  the  size  of 
•the  ball,  and  plunge  in  bottom  heat  for  about  three  weeks.  The  roots 
will  90on  enter  the  fresh  soil,  when  the  plants  may  be  taken  back  to  the 
stove.  CuttingB  may  also  be  inserted  in  thumb  pots  in  February  or 
March,  choosing  clean,  healthy,  well-coloured  shoots.  A  propagating 
case  where  a  bottom  heat  of  70°  is  maintained  is  suitable  for  rooting 
them.  When  well  rooted  they  may  be  removed  to  a  shelf  near  the  glass. 
In  a  short  time  the  plants  will  be  ready  for  a  shift  into  3 -inch  pots, 
using  a  compost  of  fibry  loam,  peat,  and  sand,  without  the  addition  of 
leaf  mould.  Stand  the  pots  on  shelves  near  the  glass  in  a  low  house,  and 
shdae  for  a  week  or  more  from  bright  sunshine.  If  the  soil  is  in  good 
condition  no  water  will  be  required  for  some  time,  but  the  syringe  must 
be  used  twice  or  thrice  daily  in  bright  weather,  also  the  floors  and 
staging  should  be  kept  damp.  A  temperature  of  from  75°  to  80°  by  day 
with  a  rise  of  10°  from  sun  heat,  and  a  night  temperature  of  from  65°  to 
70°,  will  be  suitable.  About  the  middle  of  May  the  plants  will  be 
ready  for  5-inch  pots,  and  maybe  grown  in  the  same  house  till  September, 
and  then  taken  to  the  stove  for  winter  embellishment. 
Later  in  the  season  a  few  of  the  small-leaved  varieties  may  be  propa¬ 
gated  and  brought  on  in  3-inch  pots,  these  being  useful  for  intermingling 
with  the  larger  ones  in  various  forms  of  decoration.  Another  batch 
should  be  propagated  in  August  and  placed  in  3-inch  pots  about  the 
middle  of  September;  they  will  get  well  established  before  the  dull 
weather  sets  in,  and  make  useful  plants  by  the  following  autumn. 
However,  a  few  may  be  kept  in  thumb  pots  through  the  winter,  as 
these  have  a  very  pleasing  appearance  in  the  rockwork  of  a  large  table 
centre.  Large  plants,  if  desired,  may  be  cut  back  fairly  hard  and 
allowed  to  break,  when  they  should  have  the  soil  reduced,  and  placed  in 
fresh  in  the  same  sized  pots.  The  second  year  a  top-dressing  would  be 
ample. 
Crotons  revel  in  abundance  of  heat  and  moisture  throughout  the 
growing  season,  and  shading  is  necessary  in  very  hot  weather.  Air 
should  be  admitted  freely  from  the  beginning  of  August  to  the  middle 
of  September  to  allow  of  the  plants  becoming  to  some  extent  hardened 
and  highly  coloured.  All  shading  must  be  removed  by  the  1st  of  Sep¬ 
tember.  Crotons  are  subject  to  the  attack  of  thrips,  red  spider,  and 
mealy  bug.  Against  the  former  fumigating  with  tobacco  paper  iB  an 
effective  remedy  ;  the  latter  succumbs  to  a  solution  of  softsoap  and 
petroleum,  4  ozs.  of  the  soap  to  wineglassful  of  petroleum  to  1  gallon  of 
water.  The  smaller  plants  may  be  immersed  in  a  tub  of  the  solution 
at  a  temperature  of  110°  ;  the  larger  plants  should  be  laid  on  the’r  sides, 
and  the  insecticide  directed  into  their  points  by  means  of  a  syringe  or 
pump.  A  few  good  varieties  for  all-round  purposes  are  Prince  of  Wales, 
angustifolius,  interruptus  aurea,  Warren'',  Chelsoni,  nobilis,  Langi, 
majesticus,  Princess  of  Wales,  Sunset,  Clarki,  and  Victoria.  These, 
among  many  others,  are  invaluable  through  the  winter,  when  flowering 
plants  are  scarce. — Learner. 
Gloxinias. 
Whilst  reading  “Youngster’s”  article  (page  144)  on  the  above 
subject  I  was  surprised  at  the  method  of  culture  recommended  by  him. 
In  the  first  instance  he  seems  inclined  to  deplore  the  fact  that  Gloxinias 
are  not  largely  grown.  I  can  assure  him  that  they  are  grown  in 
quantity  in  many  establishments.  In  the  gardens  where  I  have  been 
employed,  and  in  various  others  that  I  have  at  times  visited,  I  have 
invariably  found  a  goodly  number  of  Gloxinias.  I  have  occasionally 
seen  houses  devoted  solely  to  them.  Farther  on  “  Youngster”  says, 
“As  soon  as  the  tiny  seedlings  can  be  fairly  seen  prick  them  off.”  I 
think  it  more  advisable  to  leave  them  in  the  seed  pans  till  one  or 
two  rough  leaves  are  formed  ;  they  can  then  be  easily  handled  by  a 
careful  man. 
Then,  again,  a  cool  greenhouse  would  not  be  a  suitable  place  for 
storing  the  corms  throughout  the  resting  period.  The  temperature  of 
that  structure  would  fall  much  too  low  to  keep  them  sound  and  healthy. 
A  stove  or  intermediate  house  would  be  the  best  situation  for  them. 
For  starting  the  cormB  into  growth  at  any  season  a  temperature  of  50° 
would  not  be  sufficient ;  60°  to  65°  I  find  suitable  to  start  them  in, 
certainly  not  more  than  5°  lower.  Gloxinias  are  very  partial  to  genial 
moist  heat,  therefore  I  consider  they  ought  not  at  any  time  be  subjected 
to  a  temperature  less  than  65°. 
For  potting  compost  “  nothing  suits  them  better  than  a  mixture  of 
three  parts  leaf  soil, lone  each  of  loam  and  sand,  with  a  sprinkling  of  soot 
added,”  says  “  Youngster.”  I  venture  to  state  the  following  mixture  will 
be  found  more  adapted  tr  meet  the  requirements  of  Gloxinias  : — Good 
fibry  loam  and  peat  two  parts  each,  well-decayed  cow  manure,  leaf  soil, 
and  sand  one  part  each.  Soot  is  best  applied  in  liquid  form.  Weak 
doses  given  twice  a  week,  commencing  when  the  pots  are  filled  with 
roots,  prove  an  excellent  s  imulant.  We  grow  Gloxinias  by  the  hundred, 
as  they  are  much  in  demand  both  in  a  cut  state  and  as  pot  plants.  By 
starting  them  in  successional  batches  we  have  abundance  of  bloom  for 
over  six  months.  One  and  two-year-old  corms  are  used  for  early  and 
midseason  supplies,  these  being  followed  by  young  plants  raised  from 
seed  so wn  in  the  previous  February. — W.  P. 
Snowdrops. 
Snowdrops  are  well  known,  and  who  does  not  love  them  ?  They 
are  the  acknowledged  chief  heralds  of  spring,  producing  their  light 
green  leaves  and  white  bell-shaped  flowers  while  dreary  winter  has 
scarcely  left  us,  and  while  there  are  but  few  flowers  out  of  doors  tor 
companionship.  In  the  language  of  flowers  the  Snowdrop  is  the 
emblem  of  hope. 
There  is  an  old  world  legend  which  tells  us  how  Hope  chose  the 
Snowdrop  for  her  emblem  ;  that  Hope,  with  her  long,  golden  hair 
dishevelled,  stood  one  day  leaning  upon  her  anchor,  watching  the  snow¬ 
flakes  fall  down  upon  the  earth  ;  that  Spring  stood  beside  her,  and  Hope 
said  the  earth  would  look  much  more  cheerful  if  instead  of  snow  which 
melted  and  left  the  woods  and , fields  dark  and  damp,  the  snowflakes 
were  changed  to  white  flowers  as  som  as  they  reached  the  earth  ;  that 
Spring  smiled  as  she  listened  to  Hope,  and  sending  her  sweet  warm 
breath  amongst  the  falling  snow  it  fell  in  the  form  of  flowers,  and  so 
the  Snowdrop  was  first  made,  that  Hope  caught  the  first  flower  as  it 
fell,  and  said  it  would  be  her  emblem  throughout  all  time. 
Galanthus,  the  botanical  name  of  the  Snowdrop,  is  derived  from 
gala,  milk,  and  anthos,  a  flower,  in  reference  to  the  milk-white  flowers. 
It  belongs  to  the  natural  order  Amaryllideae,  other  members  of  this 
order  being  Leucoium,  Narcissus,  &c.  Of  the  species  and  varieties  in 
cultivation  perhaps  G.  nivalis  and  G.  Elwe3i  are  the  best  known. 
Snowdrops  are  of  easy  cultivation,  and  will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil  or 
situation.  For  naturalising  in  grass,  by  woodland  walks,  and  under 
deciduous  trees  they  are  very  suitable,  and  they  are  both  cheap  and 
attractive.  If  planted  in  the  autumn  they  will  make  a  good  show  the 
next  February.  When  once  planted  they  should  not  be  disturbed. 
They  will  soon  establish  themselves,  and  will  come  more  plentiful  every 
year. 
I  often  wonder  why  Snowdrops  are  not  more  used  for  naturalisation 
in  public  gardens  and  the  gardens  in  the  squares  of  our  large  towns, 
where  at  the  present  time  they  are  devoid  of  flowers  from  November 
till  May.  Nothing  could  be  more  attractive  at  the  present  time  than  in 
the  midst  of  the  grim  and  black  appearance  of  these  gardens  to  see 
patches  of  Snowdrops  here  and  there,  reviving  the  spirits  and  giving 
fresh  hope  to  those  who  look  upon  them. — Cameo. 
