190 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  4,  1897. 
WOKK.foh.the  WEEK. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  Houses. — Ventilation  is  the  main  art  in  forcing  Cherries, 
and  requires  unremitting  attention.  A  free  circulation  of  air  should 
pass  through  the  house  whenever  the  temperature  exceeds  50°,  regu¬ 
lating  the  amount  by  the  conditions  of  the  external  atmosphere. 
Employ  fire  heat  only  to  maintain  50°  through  the  day,  relying  on  sun 
heat  for  advancement,  and  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  40°  to  45°. 
The  blossoming  over  and  the  frmit  swelling,  recourse  may  again  be  had 
to  syringing  ;  but  avoid  keeping  the  trees  dripping  with  water,  always 
allowing  the  foliage  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Keep  a  keen 
eye  on  aphides,  and  promptly  fumigate  or  syrirge  the  trees  with  quassia 
water.  This  may  be  made  by  steeping  4  oz3.  of  chips  overnight  in  a 
gallon  of  soft  water,  boiling  fifteen  minutes,  and  dissolving  iD  it  as  it 
cools  2  ozs.  of  softsoap,  straining,  and  adding  boiling  water  to  make 
1  gallon,  as  some  liquid  is  lost  in  boiling.  Affected  shoots  should  be 
gently  rubbed  between  the  fingers,  well  moistened  with  the  preparation, 
so  as  to  dislodge  the  pests  on  the  under  Bide  of  the  leaves,  then  apply 
the  liquid  at  a  temperature  of  about  100°  by  means  of  a  spraying  appa¬ 
ratus,  which  insures  better  distribution,  and  1  gallon  will  go  as  far  as 
6  gallons  by  ordinary  syringing.  Look  carefully  over  the  trees  for 
grubs.  One  kind,  a  species  of  Tortrix,  rolls  itself  up  in  the  leaves,  and 
can  be  eradicated  by  squeezing  between  the  thumb  and  finger  ;  but  the 
other  becomes  encased  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  giving  the  appear¬ 
ance  of  being  scalded,  and  from  the  leaves  it  passes  to  the  Cherries, 
eating  and  spoiling  them.  The  only  remedy  is  to  search  for  and  destroy 
the  grubs.  Supply  water  or  liquid  manure  to  the  border  as  required, 
keeping  trees  in  pots  well  supplied,  and  afford  top-dressings  of  rich 
material.  Pinch  side  growths  at  the  fourth  or  fifth  leaf,  heeling-in 
extension  or  side  growths  required  to  cover  vacant  space. 
Cucumbers. — Light  and  sun  beat  increase  the  evaporation,  necessi¬ 
tating  a  greater  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture,  therefore  damp  the 
house  twice  a  day  and  syringe  the  plants  lightly  early  on  bright 
afternoons.  On  cold  nights  65°  is  ample,  but  on  mild  nights  allow  5° 
more,  maintaining  70°  to  75°  by  day  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun 
heat,  closing  early  so  as  to  increase  the  heat  to  90°  or  even  100°.  Afford 
liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week,  with  an  occasional  application  of 
nitrate  of  soda,  \  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water.  This  puts  vigour  into  the 
plants  and  both  size  and  colour  into  the  fruit.  Stop  the  shoots  one 
joint  beyond  the  show  for  fruit.  Thin  the  Cucumbers  well  to  secure 
fine  specimens,  removing  superfluous  growth,  tendrils,  bad  leaves,  and 
male  blossoms.  Ventilate  early  and  carefully,  avoiding  draughts  and 
depressions  of  temperature. 
Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames. — These  have  had  a  fairly  good  time,  the 
temperature  being  kept  up  without  difficulty.  Cover  the  lights  at 
night  and  prepare  material  for  fresh  beds  and  for  linings,  sowing  seeds 
as  occasional  plants  are  required.  (See  Melons.) 
rigs.- — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — The  first  swelling  of  the 
fruits  on  trees  started  in  November  will  soon  be  completed.  They 
remain  stationary  for  some  time  in  the  process  of  flowering,  and  as  this 
is  the  most  critical  time  in  their  culture  every  care  must  be  taken  to 
avoid  a  check.  Insufficient  moisture  or  excessive  fire  heat  will  came 
the  fruits  to  drop  when  they  should  be  commencing  their  last  swelling, 
therefore  keep  the  temperature  steady.  If  mild  it  may  be  kept  at  65° 
to  65°  at  night,  but  if  the  weather  is  cold  5°  less  is  safer,  and  what  is 
lost  at  night  may  be  gained  in  the  daytime  by  closing  with  plenty  of 
heat  and  moisture  (but  not  with  the  latter  barging  on  the  fruit),  when 
a  rise  of  10°  to  15°  may  be  indulged  in  without  producing  a  weak  or 
elongated  growth,  keeping  the  temperature  through  the  day  with  gleams 
of  sun  at  70°  to  75°,  otherwise  65°  artificially.  Afford  copious  syringings 
on  all  favourable  occasions  as  a  means  of  keeping  down  red  spider.  It 
is  prone  to  attack  foliage  most  in  close  proximity  to  hot-water  pipes, 
and  should  be  prevented  spreading  by  sponging  the  leaves  carefully 
with  a  soapy  solution,  2  ozs.  of  softsoap  to  a  gallon  of  water.  To 
encourage  the  swelling  of  the  fruit  top-dressings  of  rich  materials  should 
be  applied  to  the  surface  of  the  pots.  Supply  tepid  liquid  manure 
steadily  to  the  roots,  giving  it  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pass  through  the 
pots.  Avoid  crowding  the  growths,  stopping  at  about  the  fifth  leaf, 
tying  out  the  shoots  as  the  growth  advances,  and  cutting  out  superfluous 
shoots.  These,  however,  are  best  prevented  by  rubbing  them  off  early, 
so  as  to  give  those  left  all  the  light  possible.  The  fruit,  to  have  colour 
and  high  flavour,  must  have  full  exposure  to  light  and  a  circulation  of 
warm  rather  dry  air. 
Planted-out  Fig  Trees. — Those  started  early  in  the  year  will  require 
disbudding,  removing  all  the  overcrowded  shoots,  and  where  there  is 
not  room  for  laying  in  a  long  shoot,  yet  space  for  some  growth,  the 
shoots  may  be  pinched  at  the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf  to  form  well  developed 
so-called  spurs  for  the  second  crop,  the  leading  and  successional  shoots, 
where  there  is  space,  being  allowed  to  extend ,  as  these  invariably  afford 
the  finest  fruits  and  longest  succession.  Water  the  border  as  required 
with  liquid  manure,  taking  care  not  to  apply  it  too  strong,  and  mulch 
with  an  inch  of  rather  rich  compost,  which  attracts  the  roots  to  the 
surface.  Trees  in  restricted  borders,  and  needing  more  support,  may 
have  roots  encouraged  from  the  collar  by  placing  turves  interspersed 
with  lime  rubbish  and  manure  in  contact  with  it,  and  by  extending  the 
material  outwards  a  quantity  of  feeders  will  be  secured,  which,  if  duly 
supplied  with  liquid  manure,  will  greatly  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling. 
Syringe  the  trees  twice  a  day  in  favourable  weather,  damping  only  on 
dull  days,  and  keep  the  mulching  moistened  as  it  becomes  dry. 
Young  Trees  in  Pots. — Shift  those  intended  for  next  year’s  forcing, 
potting  firmly,  and  afford  gentle  bottom  heat.  Shade  slightly  from 
bright  sunshine  for  a  few  days  until  they  show  signs  of  having  taken 
to  the  new  soil,  when  they  should  be  fully  exposed  to  light.  Pinch  the 
growths  so  as  to  insure  a  sturdy  well-furnished  head,  training  with  a 
single  stem  of  8  to  12  inches. 
Melons. — A  ridge  about  2  feet  wide  at  the  base  with  the  top 
flattened,  so  as  to  give  a  depth  of  10  or  12  inches,  is  preferable  to 
hillocks,  though  these  may  be  made  about  the  same  in  diameter  as  the 
width  of  the  ridge,  and  its  depth  at  the  places  where  the  plants  are  to 
be  put  out  2£  to  3  feet  apart.  The  soil  should  be  firm,  and  when 
warmed  through  planting  may  be  done,  keeping  the  seed  leaves  clear  of 
the  soil.  The  leading  shoots  should  be  taken  up  without  stopping 
until  two-thirds  the  distance  is  reached  they  are  intended  to  travel, 
then  pinch  out  the  point  of  each,  and  rub  off  the  laterals  to  the  height 
of  the  trellis.  Some  varieties  show  fruit  on  the  first  laterals,  and  as 
early  fruit  is  a  main  feature  with  the  plants  allow  them  to  remain, 
taking  out  the  point  at  the  joint  above  the  fruit  at  the  time  of  fertilising 
the  blossom.  To  allow  all  the  laterals  to  remain  would  very  much  over¬ 
crowd  the  foliage,  therefore  rub  off  while  quite  young  every  alternate 
one.  If  the  laterals  do  not  show  fruit  at  the  second  or  third  joint  pinch 
them  at  those  points,  and  the  succeeding  growths  will  show  fruit.  Train 
the  growths  thinly  and  regularly,  so  that  every  part  is  equally  furnished 
with  foliage,  all  having  due  exposure  to  light. 
Melons  in  Pits  and  F/ames. — Stop  the  plants  at  the  second  leaf 
before  or  after  planting  out.  This  causes  two  shoots  to  push,  and  these 
in  turn  being  pinched  similarly  will  give  four  shoots,  two  to  be  taken  to 
the  front  and  two  to  the  back  of  the  frame.  Other  growths  that  appear 
near  the  collar  of  the  plants  should  be  rubbed  off  while  quite  young, not 
encouraging  any  laterals  nearer  the  stem  than  6  inches,  as  it  is  necessary 
to  keep  the  collar  clear.  Stop  the  principal  shoots  when  within  1  foot 
of  the  sides  of  the  pit  or  frame,  thus  throwing  vigour  into  the  laterals, 
and  the  growths  must  not  be  crowded.  The  laterals  will  show  fruit  at 
the  second  or  third  joint,  and  they  should  be  pinched  one  joint  beyond 
the  fruit,  but  not  until  the  blossom  is  fertilised.  Little  water  will  be 
required,  nevertheless  maintain  the  soil  in  a  moist  state,  but  avoid  a 
saturated  condition.  Cover  the  lights  with  double  mats  at  night,  and 
see  that  the  linings  are  regularly  attended  to,  renewing  as  required. 
Prepare  material  for  fresh  beds  and  linings.  Three  parts  Oak,  Spanish 
Chestnut,  or  Beech  leaves,  and  one  part  stable  litter  make  the  best  beds, 
mixing  the  materials  about  a  fortnight  before  it  is  desired  to  make  the 
beds.  In  a  few  days  it  will  be  seen  whether  there  is  enough  moisture 
to  insure  fermentation — if  not  turn  the  whole,  and  sprinkle  with  water 
or  liquid  manure  so  as  to  moisten  the  mass,  and  when  in  good  heat  tarn 
the  heap  outside  to  inside,  two  or  three  turnings  being  required  at 
intervals  of  about  four  days.  Maintain  the  bottom  heat  at  85°  to  90°, 
taking  care,  however,  to  prevent  overheating. 
Melon  Houses.  —  In  these  more  moisture  is  necessary,  therefore 
sprinkle  the  paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Ventilate  carefully,  avoiding  cold  currents  of  air,  placing  some  hexagon 
netting  or  coarse  scrim  canvas  over  the  ventilators  when  the  outside 
air  is  sharp.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°,  and  the  day  heat  at 
70°  to  75°,  rising  to  80°,  85°,  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  closing  early,  so 
as  to  raise  to  90° or  more,  keeping  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  80°.  Sow  seed 
for  raising  young  plants  to  sustain  the  succession,  and  shift  seedlings  into 
large  pots,  or  add  soil  as  the  plants  advance.  Stop  those  at  the  second 
leaf  for  frame?,  but  not  for  trellises. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Globe  Artichokes. — The  mildness  of  the  weather  has  started  these 
into  active  growth  somewhat  earlier  than  usual,  and  there  ought  to  Be 
no  delay  in  removing  protective  material  from  the  crowns.  Where 
young  growths  are  numerous,  these  should  be  freely  thinned,  three  or 
four  strong  flowering  stems  giving  better  results  than  a  greater  number 
of  weakly  ones.  After  the  thinning  is  done  give  the  plants  a  heavy 
dressing  of  half-decayed  manure.  A  soaking  of  moderately  strong  liquid 
manure  would  not  be  wasted  on  the  older  clumps.  It  is  large  succulent 
flower  heads  that  are  required,  and  these  starvelings  never  produce.  A 
row  or  rows  of  the  oldest  or  nearly  worn-out  plants  ought  to  be 
destroyed,  and  a  corresponding  number  of  young  ones  be  planted 
annually.  April  is  a  good  time  to  do  this,  and  the  requisite  number  of 
sucker  growths  should  be  saved  on  the  clumps  when  the  thinning  out  is 
done. 
Jerusalem  Artichokes. — It  is  a  mistake  to  leave  these  to  grow  of 
their  own  accord  on  the  same  plot  of  ground  year  after  year.  Much 
better  results  attend  the  practice  of  changing  the  sites,  and  planting 
every  season.  Prepare  the  ground  as  for  Potatoes,  manuring  moderately 
and  cultivating  deeply.  Select  medium-sized  tubers,  planting  these 
whole  and  before  they  have  lost  their  first  strong  sprout.  Open  drills 
5  inches  deep  and  3  feet  apart,  disposing  the  sets  1  foot  apart  in  these. 
Level  the  soil,  keep  the  ground  free  of  weeds,  and  mould  up  the  stems. 
The  white-skinned  variety  is  the  best  in  every  way.  Dig  over  the  old 
quarters  for  all  the  tubers  left  in  them,  rub  off  the  shoots,  and  store  in  a 
heap,  soiling  over  for  present  use. 
