March  4,  189?. 
JOURNAL  OR  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
191 
Brussels  Sprouts.— Since  the  introduction  of  more  reliable  varie¬ 
ties,  there  has  been  less  need  to  sow  the  seed  and  plant  so  early  as  of  old, 
but  the  heaviest  and  best  crops  are  usually  produced  by  plants  raised 
and  put  out  comparatively  early.  Sow  seed  now  thinly  in  boxes,  placing 
it  in  gentle  heat  to  germinate,  or  the  requisite  number  of  plants  may  be 
raised  on  a  shallow  hotbed  with  or  without  a  covering  of  glass.  Market 
growers  sow  their  seed  quite  in  the  open,  roughly  protecting  with  straw, 
and  those  private  gardeners  who  have  little  frame  or  house  room  to  spare 
should  adopt  the  same  practice. 
Broccoli.  —  Early  autumn  varieties,  notably  Veitch’s  Autumn 
Protecting,  can  be  had  in  close  succession  to  Autumn  Giant  Cauli¬ 
flowers,  and  the  crop  may  be  considered  an  important  one.  Seed  should 
be  sown  now,  much  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Brussels  Sprouts.  None 
of  the  winter  Broccoli  should  be  sown  yet.  April  and  May  is  quite 
soon  enough  to  sow  these. 
Xeelcs. — For  the  main  crop  sow  seed  of  Ayton  Castle,  Musselburgh, 
or  other  approved  variety  on  free  working  soil  in  the  open.  Seeing  that 
the  plants  will  most  probably  be  moved  direct  to  where  they  are  to 
grow  to  their  full  size,  the  seed  should  be  sown  thinly,  and  either  broad¬ 
cast  or  in  shallow  drills  6  inches  apart.  If  the  ground  now  occupied 
by  Leeks  is  wanted  for  other  crops,  they  may  be  lifted  and  laid-in 
closely  on  a  cool  border,  taking  care  to  well  cover  the  blanched  portion 
of  stems  with  soil.  This  will  also  retard  bolting  or  running  to  seed. 
Onions. — Early  sowing  is  desirable,  but  should  not  be  attempted 
till  the  ground  is  sufficiently  dry  to  admit  of  its  being  trampled  heavily 
without  binding  badly.  This  important  crop  ought  to  have  a  well- 
prepared  site,  the  ground  if  at  all  clayey  requiring  to  be  heavily 
manured,  and  deeply  dug  early  enough  for  the  frosts  to  assist  in  fining 
it  down  thoroughly.  Some  few  naturally  free-working  soils  may  be 
dug,  and  the  seeds  sown  at  once  in  preference  to  leaving  them  long 
enough  to  become  hard  and  difficult  to  fine  down.  In  any  case  level 
the  surface,  making  it  as  fine  as  possible,  also  stirring  in  soot  at  the  rate 
of  1  peck  to  the  square  rod,  following  with  a  heavy  trampling  and  a 
good  raking.  Shallow  but  not  very  narrow  drills  may  be  drawn  at 
10  inches  to  12  inches  apart,  and  the  seed  sown  thinly  in  these.  Fix 
the  seed  in  the  drills  with  the  foot,  and  then  give  a  final  raking,  leaving 
all  level  and  smooth. 
Autumn-sown  Onions. — These  can  be  transplanted  now.  They  ought 
to  have  well-prepared  ground,  but  should  not  share  the  same  site  as  the 
more  valuable  spring-sown  crops  owing  to  the  liability  of  the  Tripoli 
section  in  particular  to  become  mildewed,  the  wind  spreading  the  disease 
to  other  Onions  near.  Arrange  them  6  inches  apart  in  rows  not  less 
than  12  inches  asunder.  Plant  at  the  same  depth  as  they  were  in  the  seed 
bed,  and  spread  out  the  roots,  covering  firmly  with  good  fine  soil. 
Scallions. — Thanks  to  the  roots  being  so  thoroughly  harvested  last 
season  they  are  keeping  sound,  better  than  iB  often  the  case  in  mild 
winters.  Where,  however,  they  were  stored  in  warm  darkened  sheds 
they  are  softening  and  forming  top  growth,  and  unless  attended  to  will 
soon  be  worthless.  Plant  the  greater  portion  of  them  in  the  open  ground, 
about  5  inches  asunder  in  rows  8  inches  apart.  When  strong  top  growth 
has  been  formed  draw  the  Onions  as  required  for  U6e,  pulling  them  to 
pieces  and  clearing  of  old  skins.  They  will  be  scarcely  distinguishable 
from  Tripoli  Onions,  and  will  be  found  of  good  service  at  a  time  when 
home-grown  Onions  are  scarce. 
Rhubarb. — Growth  has  commenced  early  on  the  roots  not  covered 
in  any  way,  and  there  ought  to  be  no  further  delay  in  forming  fresh 
plantations.  Large,  spreading,  old  clumps  are  the  best  to  divide,  each 
portion  having  one  or  more  crowns  and  a  few  roots  attached.  Replant 
in  heavily  manured,  deeply  dug  ground  2  feet  apart  each  way  if  they 
are  to  be  prepared  for  lilting  and  forcing,  and  3  feet  apart  if  large 
strong  clumps  are  to  form.  Only  just  the  crown  should  show  above  the 
soil,  and  the  soil  ought  to  be  made  firm  about  the  roots.  Mulch  with 
strawy  manure,  and  on  no  account  pull  any  of  the  leaves  during  the 
first  season. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Flttonlas. — In  2-inch  pots  these  are  useful  little  plants  for  various 
forms  of  decoration.  They  root  readily  at  almost  any  season  of  the  year, 
and  may  be  inserted  in  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  be  grown,  and  few 
dwarf  plants  are  more  effective  when  associated  with  small  Ferns  or 
Selaginellas.  The  two  varieties,  arranged  together  as  a  front  margin  to 
the  stove  or  Orchid  house,  are  very  pleasing,  and  the  close  moist 
atmosphere  of  the  latter  suits  them  admirably.  They  are  more 
beautiful  when  grown  in  low  Orchid  pans  4  inches  across  than  when 
employed  in  ordinary  pots.  When  arranged  at  the  front  of  a  group  of 
plants  these  low  pans  can  be  tilted  so  that  the  plants  with  their  finely 
marked  leaves  reach  to  the  base. 
Souerllas. — These  are  not  so  useful  on  the  whole  as  Fittonias,  never¬ 
theless  where  choice  plants  are  grown  and  appreciated  for  their  chaste 
beauty  a  few  of  these  should  be  included.  A  few  pans  in  the  stove  or 
in  the  Orchid  house  are  certainly  an  attraction.  These  plants  grow  very 
well  in  small  baskets  in  close  moist  shaded  houses.  For  this  purpose  the 
cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  pans  and  the  plants  subsequently  dibbled 
in  the  baskets,  using  as  a  compost  rough  peat  moss  and  sand.  If  dewed 
over  twice  daily  after  they  are  rooted  and  placed  in  the  baskets  they 
soon  cover  the  material  in  which  they  are  grown. 
Bertolonlas. — A  stove  scarcely  Beems  furnished  without  a  few  of 
these  foliage  plants.  Young  plants  that  have  passed  the  winter  well  in 
small  pots  may  be  placed  into  4-inch,  which  are  large  enough  for  them 
to  develop  beautiful  leaves.  Side  shoots  on  larger  plants  that  were 
retained,  if  inserted  in  small  pots  in  moss  and  sand,  will  root  quickly  in 
the  propagating  frame.  The  atmosphere  of  the  stove  is  too  airy  and 
dry  as  a  rule  for  these  plants,  and  until  they  are  developed  we  grow 
them  in  hand-lights  in  the  house. 
Panlcum  varlegatum. — For  many  forms  of  decoration  the  old 
Panicum  is  invaluable.  Associated  with  Selaginella  csesia,  it  is  unques¬ 
tionably  the  best  edging  to  the  stove,  or  any  warm  house,  that  can  be 
employed.  Those  rooted  in  autumn,  and  now  in  60’s,  may  be  placed  in 
5-inch  pots,  and  before  the  end  of  the  season  the  growths  will  hang  from 
the  stage  to  the  gr  und.  Cuttings  may  be  also  inserted  in  5-inch  pots. 
This  plant  is  suitable  for  baskets,  and  in  a  few  months  these  have  a  very 
attractive  appearance. 
Nepenthes. — Plants  that  have  grown  tall  should  be  cut  down  to 
within  6  inches  of  the  base.  The  stem  may  be  cut  into  lengths  of  two 
leaves  to  each  ;  these  if  inserted  in  sphagnum  moss  and  sand,  and  plunged 
in  brisk  heat  in  the  propagating  frame,  will  soon  root.  Plants  w^ich 
have  made  four  or  five  leaves,  and  are  not  required  for  stock,  may  be 
pinched  ;  this  insures  their  breaking  and  pitchering  freely.  If  they  are 
allowed  to  “  run  away  ”  they  soon  cease  to  produce  pitchers.  When  the 
plants  are  grown  in  baskets  and  need  larger  ones  it  is  the  best  plan  to 
place  the  old  baskets  inside  the  new,  and  then  fill  in  with  rough  peat, 
lumps  of  charcoal,  and  sphagnum  moss.  These  plants  are  subject  to 
thrips,  and  the  beat  method  of  eradicating  them  is  to  tie  the  basket  in 
a  piece  of  close  tiffany,  and  then  syringe  thoroughly  over  a  tank  contain¬ 
ing  a  solution  of  tobacco  water.  If  the  basket  is  not  covered  the  thrips 
drop  into  the  moss,  and  are  not  long  before  they  establish  themselves  on 
the  plants  again. 
Sf 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
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e)  //si 
Questions  on  Bee-keeping. 
On  June  8th,  1895,  a  stray  swarm  of  bees  came  and  settled  on  a 
tree  near  my  cottage,  which  I  hived  in  a  box.  Having  obtained  a 
bar-frame  hive,  containing  twelve  frames,  from  a  neighbour,  the 
bee3  were  placed  in  it  the  same  night.  In  the  autumn  I  removed 
two  frames,  and  left  the  remaining  ten  for  the  winter  ^(No.  1). 
On  the  13th  May,  1896,  a  strong  swarm  came  off,  weighing  6  lbs. 
This  was  hived  in  a  straw  ekep,  and  in  the  evening  transferred  to  a 
double  twelve-frame  hive  (No.  2). 
On  the  25th  May  No.  1  swarmed  again,  the  weight  of  bees  being 
much  less  than  the  former,  only  weighing  lbs.  The  bees  were 
placed  in  a  small  hive  (No.  3).  In  the  autumn  eight  frames  con¬ 
taining  brood  and  honey  were  left  in  each  hive. 
On  examining  them  to-day  (February  18th)  I  found  them  all  in 
good  condition  ;  plenty  of  bees  and  ample  stores.  This  season  I 
am  anxious  to  obtain  one  swarm  and  no  more. 
Which  of  the  above  stocks  would  be  best  for  me  to  obtain  a 
swarm  from  ?  How  am  I  to  prevent  the  others  swarming  ?  When 
is  the  proper  time  to  give  more  empty  frames  so  as  to  obtain  a  good 
surplus  of  honey  ? 
I  shall  be  grateful  for  any  information  “  An  English  Bee-keeper” 
can  give  me  on  the  subject,  as  I  know  nothing  about  queen  cells 
and  rearing  young  queens. 
During  the  past  season  1  obtained  about  40  lb3.  of  honey,  and 
was  awarded  second  prize  at  our  local  show  for  a  frame  of  comb 
honey  weighing  5  lbs. — D.  H.  B. 
Bees  Swarming. 
As  the  queen  in  No.  2  hive  will  now  be  three  years  old,  the 
colony  must  be  requeened  at  the  earliest  possible  date.  This, 
however,  should  not  be  attempted  until  there  are  numerous  drones 
on  the  wing,  or  it  will  end  in  failure.  Allow  this  stock  to  swarm, 
the  old  queen  will  accompany  the  swarm,  place  them  in  a  frame 
hive  on  not  more  than  eight  frames.  The  queen  being  old  her 
laying  powers  will  be  on  the  wane,  and  probably  not  a  third  of  the 
number  of  eggs  will  be  laid  as  a  young  fertile  queen  would  have 
done.  If  honey  is  coming  in  freely  place  a  crate  of  sections  on 
the  top  of  the  frames,  and  the  bees  will  at  once  store  a  surplus. 
Six  days  afterwards  carefully  examine  the  interior  of  No.  2  hive. 
Lift  each  frame  out  of  the  hive,  and  remove  with  the  point  of  a 
knife  all  the  queen  cells  but  two.  These  should  be  left  on  separate 
frames,  and  are  easily  distinguished,  as  they  are  similar  in  size  and 
shape  to  an  acorn,  point  downwards.  This  being  a  double  hive, 
place  half  the  frames,  brood,  and  bees  on  each  side  of  the  division 
board  with  a  frame  containing  a  queen  cell  in  the  middle  of  each. 
This  operation  may  be  carried  out  with  separate  hives,  care  being 
taken  that  sufficient  bees  are  placed  in  each  to  cover  the  brood. 
In  about  ten  days  from  the  time  the  stock  swarmed  the  young 
queens  will  have  hatched  out,  and  if  the  weather  is  bright  will 
become  fertilised  and  laying  within  a  fortnight.  When  this  has 
taken  place  go  to  the  hive  containing  the  swarm  and  lift  the 
frames  out  until  the  queen  is  found,  which  is  easily  done  at  that 
season  if  the  middle  of  a  fine  day  is  chosen  for  the  operation,  as 
the  majority  of  adult  bees  will  be  on  the  wing.  Destroy  the  queen 
when  found,  cover  the  frames  temporarily,  and  return  to  No.  2 
