March  11,  1897.1 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
213 
GILIA  BRANDEGEI. 
The  annual  Gilias  are  better  known  and  more  extensively  grown 
than  the  biennial  and  perennial  forms,  though  some  of  both  of  the 
latter  are  worthy  of  a  place  in  every  garden.  G.  Brandegei,  the 
perennial  species  represented  in  the  engraving  (fig.  47)  forms  tufts  of 
small  '  peculiar  and  pretty  leaves,  alternate  on  the  leafstalk ;  the 
flower  stems  are  erect,  from  6  to  8  inches  in  height,  giving  a  succession 
of  bright  primrose-yellow  flowers  all  through  the  summer  and  autumn. 
It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  seems  to  flourish  best  in  a  damp  shady  situa¬ 
tion  ;  if  on  rockery  the  natural  drainage  will  be  found  sufficient. 
Planted*  out  in  a  position  where  it  can  be  treated  liberally  it  attains  a 
large  size  for  a  Gilia,  forming  in  one  year  a  clump  from  1  to  2  feet  in 
diameter.  The  young  growths  or  side  shoots  may  be  struck  readily 
under  a  hand-glass  in  August  and  September.  It  is  a  native  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  of  South  Colorado. — Grower. 
MARCH  PROPAGATING. 
Chrysanthemums. 
March  is  a  very  suitable  time  to  propagate  by  cuttings  all  sections 
of  Chrysanthemums  when  plants  are  wanted  simply  for  decoration. 
There  is  even  time  to  root  plants  for  show  purposes,  especially  those 
which  are  to  furnish  dwarf  plants  for  grouping,  or  to  reduce  in  height 
by  cutting  down  low  in  May  or  June.  Early  rooted  plants  intended 
for  the  latter  purpose  cannot  be  cut  down  quite  so  low  because  the 
stems  at  the  base  are  so  much  harder,  and  it  is  well  known  that  woody 
leafless  portions  of  stems  do  not  break  readily  into  growth.  Hence  we 
find  the  utility  of  spring  rooting  when  plants  are  required  to  break  as 
low  as  possible.  By  inserting  strong  cuttings  of  many  of  the  exhibition 
varieties  good  plants,  which  will  produce  excellent  flowers,  may  still  be 
rooted,  due  regard  being  paid  afterwards  to  the  details  of  cultivation 
throughout  the  summer. 
The  late  varieties  form  a  valuable  section  because  of  their  importance 
for  December  and  January  cutting,  when  flowers  are  naturally  limited 
in  quantity.  Some  excellent  varieties  have  been  mentioned  for  this 
purpose  in  previous  numbers  of  the  Journal  rf  Horticulture.  There  can 
be  little  doubt  that  if  more  attention  were  paid  to  cultivating  good  stocks 
of  the  varieties  recommended  by  the  practical  correspondents  who  have 
described  the  merits  of  the  most  suitable,  a  liberal  display  of  bloom 
might  be  had  at  the  period  mentioned.  This  is  a  good  time,  then,  to 
commence  carrying  out  the  ideas,  thus  enlarging  the  season  and  interest 
in  Chrysanthemums.  If  cuttings  are  not  easily  obtainable,  small  rooted 
plants  may  be  had  in  the  course  of,  the  next  few  weeks  from  the  trade 
growers.  These  are  sure  to  do  well  when  cuttings  might  fail,  but  the 
latter  is  a  remote  contingency  at  such  a  favourable  period  of  the  year 
for  propagating. 
Early  Chrysanthemums,  too,  are  much  appreciated,  and  ordinary 
growers  cannot  do  better  than  cultivate  a  quantity  both  in  pots  and 
borders. 
Varieties  that  afford  strong  cuttings  may  be  rooted  in  small  pots 
singly.  Small  and  weak  cuttings  are  always  best  round  the  edges  of 
larger  pots.  Quantities  of  one  kind  may  receive  accommodation  in  large 
pots  and  shallow  boxes.  Use  sandy,  light  soil,  and  give  simple  treat¬ 
ment  in  a  slightly  moist  heated  temperature  until  roots  have  formed. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. 
Insert  strong  cuttings  singly  in  the  centre  of  small  pots,  using  sandy 
or  gritty  soil.  Place  in  full  sunshine  on  a  warm  shelf  in  an  intermediate 
stove  or  warm  greenhouse.  One  good  watering  will  suffice  for  a  time,  as 
it  is  not  desirable  to  maintain  the  soil  too  moist.  When  a  little  on  the 
dry  side  the  cuttings  callus  more  freely  and  root  sooner.  Occasional 
light  skiffs  with  the  syringe  afford  sufficieut  refreshment.  As  soon  as 
rooting  does  commence  a  more  constant  state  of  moisture  in  the  soil  is 
necessary. 
As  they  advance  in  growth  give  cooler  treatment.  Nip  out  the  tops 
when  growing  freely,  so  that  bushy  plants  may  be  produced.  Plants  in 
quantity  for  bedding  may  be  rooted  round  the  edges  of  pots  and  trans¬ 
ferred  singly  to  3-inch  pots  when  well  rooted.  Spring  propagation  is 
chiefly  resorted  to  for  increasing  stock  of  any  particular  variety,  and  to 
furnish  plants  for  autumn  and  winter  flowering  in  pots. 
Lobelias. 
Lobelias,  blue  and  white,  readily  increase  by  cuttings  at  this  seasoni 
when  a  stock  of  plants  is  at  hand  to  commence  with.  Old  plants  potted 
in  autumn  and  kept  in  a  healthy  condition  furnish  abundance  of 
growths,  which  are  constantly  emitting  roots  while  still  remaining 
attached  to  the  parent  plants.  These  taken  off  and  inserted  will  quickly 
become  established  plants.  Little  preparation  of  the  cuttings  is 
needed,  but  a  few  large  bottom  leaves  may  be  removed.  Insert  as  soon 
as  possible,  placing  them  thickly  together  in  shallow  pans,  pots,  or  boxes 
filled  with  leaf  soil,  a  little  loam,  and  sand.  Water  in  the  cuttings  with 
tepid  water. 
The  receptacles  should  be  placed  in  a  moist  bottom  heat  of  65°,  main¬ 
taining  a  humid  atmosphere  about  them.  This  is  best  secured  by  a 
moist  base  of  cocoa-nut  fibre,  through  which,  if  kept  moiBt,  the  heat  can 
rise.  Frequently  dew  over  the  cuttings  with  the  syringe.  When  well 
rooted  and  growing  apace  the  tops  can  be  taken  off  and  rooted  similarly, 
or  constantly  pinched  to  keep  the  growths  compact  and  bushy. 
Fuchsias. 
Now  that  old  plants  of  Fuchsias  are  commencing  to  make  growth 
freely,  numbers  of  stout,  short-jointed  cuttings  may  be  secured.  It  i» 
quite  as  well  to  root  them  thickly  round  the  edges  of  small  pots,  and 
afterwards  divide  them  into  single  plants,  placing  each  in  a  small  pot 
in  good  open  soil.  They  also  root  freely  in  boxes,  from  which  they  may 
be  transferred  as  readily  as  from  pots.  Soft  young  growths  with  a 
heel  attached  form  very  suitable  cuttings,  obtaining  them  when  about 
1J  to  2  inches  long.  Remove  the  bottom  leaves,  two  pairs  being 
sufficient  for  each  cutting  to  carry.  Insert  in  the  soil  to  the  bottom 
pair*  The  compost  must  be  a  light  sandy  mixture  of  loam  and  leaf 
soil.  Surface  with  a  layer  of  sand,  and  after  insertion  gently  water  the- 
FIG.  47.  — GILIA  BRANDEGEI. 
cuttings.  Place  in  a  moist,  warm  temperature,  shading  from  strong 
sunshine. 
In  a  house  that  is  regularly  humid  and  warm,  the  cuttings  can  be 
maintained  fresh  without  confining  them  closely  in  frames  or  under 
hand-glasses  ;  but  in  a  dry  though  warm  structure  this  may  be  neces¬ 
sary  and  beneficial  by  assisting  the  maintenance  of  a  regularly  moist 
condition  of  the  soil.  It  prevents  rapid  evaporation,  which  if  excessive 
soon  causes  the  foliage  to  droop.  This  destroys  their  chance  of  rootiDg, 
or  at  least  retards  them  from  doing  so. 
Coleuses. 
March  is  the  best  month  to  commence  rooting  a  fresh  stock  of 
Coleuses.  Old  stock  plants,  or  younger  examples  rooted  in  autumn  for 
preserving  through  the  winter,  furnish  the  necessary  growths.  They 
should  be,  of  course,  the  strongest  obtainable.  There  is  not,  how¬ 
ever,  much  difficulty  with  young  wood  which  is  freely  growing,  whether 
strong  or  weak  ;  but  the  strongest  make  the  best  plants  the  soonest. 
Coleuses  like  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture,  and  without  these  essentials 
rooting  cannot  be  insured.  A  fair  amount  of  light  must  also  be  given 
from  the  first — in  fact,  unless  the  cuttings  flag  in  sunshine,  give  no  shade 
during  the  process  of  rooting.  Almost  any  sort  of  sandy  soil  is  suitable  for 
