March  11,  18»7. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
21 T 
STOCK  FOR  TREE  P^EONY. 
The  stock  used  for  Tree  Pteony  (if  stock  it  can  be  termed)  is 
generally  the  root  of  the  common  red  Pseony  (P.  officinalis).  It  is 
usually  done  in  the  following  way  : — A  plant  is  taken  up  bodily,  and 
all  the  strong  roots  are  selected,  or  as  many  as  are  required.  All  the 
small  fibrous  roots  are  preserved.  Scions  of  the  tree  variety  are 
selected,  which  should  be  those  which  bore  no  flowers  the  preceding 
season  if  possible,  although  this  is  not  absolutely  necessary.  These 
scions  are  cut  wedge  shape.  The  root  is  also  split,  and  the  scion  is 
thrust  in  exactly  in  the  same  way  as  an  Apple  or  other  trees  are 
grafted. 
The  root  is  now  placed  in  a  pot  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  it 
comfortably,  and  plunged  in  a  bottom  heat  of  about  70°.  It  should  be 
plunged  over  the  union  ;  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  is  the  best  material.  There 
are  two  seasons  at  which  this  can  be  done — viz.,  August  and  January.  If 
left  till  January  care  should  be  taken  that  it  is  done  before  the  scions 
start  into  growth.  Of  course  Mr.  Bardney  is  aware  that  these  plants 
start  very  early  in  the  new  year,  I  should,  however,  recommend 
August  for  this  work. 
A  second  and  a  much  better  way  in  every  respect  is  layering,  but 
one  must  have  large  plants  before  this  can  be  done,  and  as  these  plants 
are  of  slow  growth  one  must  be  prepared  to  wait  for  some  years  before 
any  of  tbe  tree  varieties  Can  be  increased  in  this  way. 
I  have  plants  both  grafted  in  the  way  described  and  from  layers. 
Those  on  their  own  roots  are  the  best  in  every  way.  These  Tree 
Pseonies  are  great  favourites  in  many  other  gardens,  and  we  are 
planting  many  of  them  of  the  best  kinds  ;  but  we  must  have 
patience  to  see  them  at  their  best — viz.,  from  5  to  6  feet  high.  I  saw 
a  plant  of  a  good  variety  of  about  this  height  and  as  much  through  in 
full  flower  two  or  three  years  ago,  and  it  was  gorgeous. 
The  reason  the  old  officinalis  is  commonly  used  is  owing  to  its  vigour. 
I  trust  this  will  meet  Mr.  Bardney’s  desire  ;  he  will,  however,  find  the 
raising  of  these  plants  rather  tedious  work. — T.  A. 
YOUNG  GARDENERS’  EXAMINATIONS. 
On  page  144  of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture  a  letter  appears  signed 
“  Novice,”  in  which  reference  is  made  to  our  laboratories,  and  an  anxiety 
expressed  for  information  bearing  upon  the  character  of  the  practical 
work  done  in  our  Essex  County  School  of  Horticulture.  I  have  much 
pleasure  in  giving  your  correspondent  the  following  brief  particulars. 
The  school  is  held  in  the  Biological  Laboratory  of  the  Essex  County 
Council,  and  at  present  consists  of  four  terms  in  the  year— three  being 
devoted  to  duplicate  elementary  courses  and  one  to  an  advanced  course. 
The  elementary  courses  run  three  weeks  each,  while  the  advanced  course 
is  extended  to  a  month.  Attached  to  the  laboratory  is  a  greenhouse  for 
demonstration  purposes,  and  a  small  botanic  garden.  About  ten  minutes’ 
walk  from  the  laboratory  is  a  3-acre  garden,  for  demonstration  and 
individual  practice.  The  students  are  all  scholarship  pupils,  ranging  in 
age  from  fourteen  to  twenty-five,  and  in  almost  every  case  are  drawn 
direct  from  gardens,  this  latter  condition  being  the  very  essence  of  our 
system. 
The  pupils  attend  a  botanical  lecture  every  morning  from  nine  to 
ten,  after  which  they  verify  the  facts  of  the  lecture  from  ten  to  twelve 
by  actual  laboratory  work  with  microscopes  under  the  direction  and 
assistance  of  the  lecturer  on  biology  and  his  demonstrator.  From  twelve 
to  one  is  the  dinner  hour.  From  one  to  four  the  pupils  are  in  greenhouse, 
potting  shed,’ or  garden  under  the  charge  of  the  staff  horticulturist,  who 
demonstrates  approved  methods  of  culture  and  superintends  toe 
individual  work  of  the  pupils.  From  tour  to  six  t»-»  and  recreation. 
From  six  to  seven  the  students  attend  a  lecture  deaLng  with  the  horti¬ 
cultural  processes  of  the  afternoon  or  next  day,  while  from  seven  1  o 
half-past  eight*  is  reading  and  private  study  under  supervision  and 
assistance.  The  whole  course  of  instruction  is  intended  to  impart  sound 
elementary  instruction  in  the  best  methods  of  cultural  treatment  based 
upon  a  knowledge  of  the  structure  and  physiology  of  plants. 
With  respect  to  the  “wonder”  expressed  by  “  Novice  ”  I  certainly 
think  that  our  students  could  easily  compete  with  any  other  youDg 
fellows  of  their  own  age  in  actual  garden  work  such  as  is  mentioned  by 
your  correspondent.  Perhaps  “Novice”  would  like  to  visit  our  school 
and  see  ub  at  work.,  We  have  an  elementary  course  running  from 
March  22nd  to  April  10th,  and  should  he  care  to  accept  this  invitation 
I  will  be  delighted  to  meet  him.  I  enclose  a  prospectus  and  time  table 
of  the  ensuing  spring  course. — David  Houston,  Staff  Biologist,  Essex 
County  Council. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Streptocarpus. 
This  is  one  of  our  most  useful  greenhouse  plants.  Some  of  the  new 
hybrid  varieties  are  exceedingly  attractive,  also  varied  in  colour,  and 
the  plants  are  of  easy  culture.  They  thrive  well  in  a  rich  compost  of 
loam,  leaf  soil,  and  decayed  manure,  with  a  little  sharp  sand  added,  and 
like  plenty  of  drainage,  as  they  are  not  deep-rooting  plants. 
They  should  be  potted  in  the  early  spring  and  placed  in  a  warm 
greenhouse,  where  they  soon  commence  growing  and  flowering  freely, 
and  will  continue  through  the  summer  months  without  a  break.  As  ttie 
spring  ad  vances  they  require  shading,  as  they  are  unable  to  stand  hot 
sun.  The  free  use  of  the  syriDge  between  the  pots  is  also  helpful,  as 
they  enjoy  a  damp  cool  atmosphere.  As  the  summer  advances  a  little 
feeding  is  very  beneficial,  and  after  the  flowering  season  is  over  water 
should  be  reduced  and  the  plants  kept  a  little  dryer  during  the  winter 
months. 
They  can  be  raised  from  seeds  and  increased  by  division.  Seed  sown 
early  in  February  in  shallow  pans  of  light  soil  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat 
will  soon  germinate.  When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  place  them 
singly  in  thumb  pots  filled  with  light  soil,  keeping  the  plants  in  brisk 
heat  till  they  become  well  established,  and  they  will  flower  by  mid¬ 
summer. 
Their  worst  enemy  is  mealy  bug,  and  the  leaves  being  so  pubescent 
it  is  difficult  to  get  rid  of.  The  best  remedy  is  careful  washing  with  a 
stiff  brush  and  the  application  of  some  approved  insecticide,  care  being 
taken  that  the  wash  is  not  allowed  to  run  down  to  the  roots.  Green  fly 
is  also  troublesome,  but  can  be  got  rid  of  with  a  little  fumigation. — 
A.  C.  W,,  Balcarres. 
The  Culture  of  Arums. 
These  stately  favourites  for  conservatory  decoration  or  cutting  may 
be  treated  in  various  ways,  but  after  several  experiments  I  have  found 
the  following  method  answer  best.  Potting  should  be  done  about  the 
end  of  August  to  allow  the  plants  to  get  established  before  being  housed. 
I  have  found  10-inch  pots  suitable  and  convenient ;  these  should  have 
one  crock  for  drainage,  covered  with  rough  leaves  or  litter  to  the  extent 
of  about  2  inches.  This  is  quite  sufficient,  as  the  plants  need  a  consider¬ 
able  amount  of  water  when  established. 
Our  compost  consists  of  three  parts  heavy  loam  with  one  part  horse 
droppings  prepared  as  for  a  Mushroom  bed,  the  whole  passed  through  an 
inch  riddle.  To  this  may  be  added  a  5-inch  potful  of  Thomson’s  Vine 
manure  or  Clay’s  fertiliser  to  every  barrowload  of  soil.  Four  crowns 
are  sufficient  to  fill  a  10-inch  pot.  Any  smaller  crowns  may  be  placed 
in  5  or  6-inch  pots,  and  grown  to  increase  the  stock  should  th>s  be 
required,  or  to  replace  any  that  go  wrong  by  accident  or  otherwise. 
They  require  potting  firmly. 
Towards  the  beginning  of  October  place  the  plants  under  glass  in  a 
night  temperature  of  not  lees  than  45°,  or  more  than  50°,  increasing  this 
to  an  extra  5°  in  November.  This  temperature  will  bring  them  on  to 
follow  Chrysanthemums,  and  afford  spatbes  to  cut  for  Christmas.  Tbe 
leaves  require  sponging  occasionally  to  keep  down  fly,  but  tbe  plants 
should  not  be  syringed,  as  this  is  apt  to  discolour  the  flowers. 
Constant  feeding  must  be  resorted  to  as  soon  as  the  plants  are 
housed,  and  liquids  are  preferable,  as  they  act  much  quicker  than  solids. 
Liquid  manure  from  stables  and  soot  water,  with  an  occasional  applica¬ 
tion  of  sulphate  of  ammonia,  I  have  found  to  give  the  best  results  ;  the 
sulphate  to  be  used  to  the  extent  of  about  1  oz.  to  every  2  gallons  of 
water.  Under  this  treatment  a  constant  supply  of  splendid  spathes  can 
be  maintained  until  the  end  of  April  without  detriment  to  the  plants. 
A  rest  of  about  six  weeks  after  Christmas  gives  extra  vigour  to  the 
plants  for  E  ister  flowering. 
The  early  part  of  May  is  the  best  time  for  turning  them  out  of  doors 
again,  planting  in  a  trench  with  a  fair  dressing  of  manure  and  mulching 
with  rough  straw.  Keep  the  roots  well  watered  all  the  summer,  and 
you  will  build  up  strong  plants  to  commence  with  another  autumn. 
Under  this  treatment  we  have  at  present  flowers  fully  9  inches  across 
with  foliage  of  a  dark  green  colour.  The  plants  are  continually  throwing 
up  flowers  of  the  purest  white. — Gaboon. 
The  Strawberry. 
( Continued  from  page  145.) 
As  the  plants  are  reouired  for  forcing  choose  the  earliest  varieties 
and  those  havip#  the  m'  a  prominent  crowns.  Examine  the  drainage, 
making  it  cite  .f  required.  Remove  all  dead  leaves,  and  wash  the  pots 
before  housiD  Some  growers  advise  plunging  the  plants  in  a  hotbed 
made  of  lea  is  and  short  litter.  This  is  advisable  where  practicable,  as 
it  causes  q  .bker  root  action,  and  the  plants  are  better  able  to  stand 
hard  forcj  -.g.  Where  there  is  no  space  at  command  for  plunging  them, 
nor  house  especially  adapted  for  their  culture,  shelves  in  vineries  or 
Peach  houses  near  the  glass  are  suitable.  The  plants  may  be  taken 
there  as  the  houses  are  started,  the  gradual  rise  of  the  temperature 
for  the  Vines  or  trees  suiting  them  very  well. 
Where  a  house  is  Bet  apart  especially  for  Strawberries  start  with  a 
temperature  of  45°  to  50°  by  night  and  55°  by  day.  Little  water  will 
be  required  at  first ;  but  each  pot  should  be  examined  every  morning,, 
and  those  requiring  water  should  receive  a  sufficient  supply  to  pass  to 
the  drainage.  When  the  flower  spikes  show  an  occasional  application 
of  liquid  manure  aids  the  plants  to  develop  strong,  bold  spikes.  As 
the  flowers  commence  opening  raise  the  temperature  to  55°  by  night 
and  60°  by  day,  ventilating  freely,  yet  judiciously,  avoiding  draughts. 
Distribute  the  pollen  either  by  shaking  tbe  flowers  or  by  a  camel-hair 
brush.  When  fruits  have  set  freely  and  are  swelling,  thin  to  a  reasonable 
number  on  each  plant.  Increase  the  temperature  to  60°  by  night  and  65° 
to  70°  by  day,  admitting  air  on  all  favourable  occasions,  closing  the  house 
early.  Syringe  freely,  and  afford  liquid  manure  until  the  fruits  colour. 
Should  mildew  appear  dust  the  leaves  with  sulphur.  Green  fly  or 
thrips  may  be  eradicated  by  fumigation.  When  the  fruit  commences 
colouring  cease  the  liquid  manure  and  gradually  decrease  the  supply  of 
water.  At  the  same  time  admit  more  air,  as  if  grown  close  the  fruit 
would  be  flavourless.  Those  colouring  in  vineries  or  Peach  houses  which 
are  being  forced  should  be  taken  to  a  more  airy  place  for  the  same 
reason.  When  nearly  ripe  abundance  of  air  should  be  given,  and  very 
little  water  will  be  required.  Do  not  allow  them  to  lose  colour  before 
gathering.  Good  results  may  be  obtained  from  the  following  varieties  : 
— La  Grosse  Suciee,  John  Ruskin,  Royal  Sovereign,  President,  Auguste 
Nicaise,  Lucas,  and  Waterloo. — Semper. 
