•218 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  11,  1897. 
Adiantum  CUNEATUM. 
One  of  the  most  useful  foliage  plants  is,  I  think,  the  Maidenhair 
Fern  (Adiantum  cuneatum).  Whether  they  are  used  in  combination 
with  other  plants,  or  in  a  house  devoted  entirely  to  them,  they  afford  a 
.pleasing  effect.  Their  delicate  fronds  in  their  developing  or  mature 
state  demands  our  admiration.  Valuable  as  they  are  for  the  above 
purposes,  they  are  equally  useful  for  vase  and  buttonhole  work,  an 
advantage  beyond  many  others.  What  flower  is  not  enhanced  in  beauty 
by  the  addition  of  one  of  their  fronds  ?  The  plants  are  very  useful  for 
placing  round  the  base  of  large  Palms  for  house  decoration  ;  a  large 
number  being  grown  exclusively  for  this  purpose,  varying  in  size  accord¬ 
ing  to  size  of  Palm.  They  also  add  to  the  beauty  of  deciduous  Orchids, 
such  as  Calanthes,  when  intermixed  with  them. 
The  culture  of  the  Adiantum  cuneatum  is  comparatively  easy, 
provided  we  have  healthy  plants  to  start  with.  The  most  important 
item  I  have  noticed  with  them  is  that  they  object  to  being  overpotted, 
and,  considering  they  benefit  by  an  occasional  watering  with  liquid 
manure  ;  overpotting  should  be  guarded  against.  They  prefer  clean  to 
dirty  pots,  effectively  drained  with  potsherds  and  charcoal.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  place  a  piece  of  perforated  zinc  over  the  hole  before  placing  in 
the  crocks,  as  this  prevents  woodlice  and  slugs — two  of  the  worst 
enemies  of  this  Fern — from  hiding  among  the  drainage  till  a  favourable 
opportunity  offers  for  them  to  feed  on  the  tender  fronds. 
The  compost  we  find  the  most  suitable  is  a  mixture  of  good  fibry 
loam  and  well-decayed  leaf  mould  in  equal  parts,  with  a  moderate 
addition  o*  sand.  The  soil  should  be  made  firm,  as  this  tends  to  make 
the  fronds  more  hardy,  thus  causing  them  to  last  longer,  especially  after 
being  picked.  The  pots  should  not  be  filled  too  full,  judgment  deter¬ 
mining  this  according  to  size  of  pot,  as  they  require  copiouB  supplies 
of  water  while  growing. 
In  the  case  of  increasing  stock  we  find  it  best  to  employ  sporelings, 
as  by  cutting  through  old  stools  the  roots  are  often  very  much  injured, 
and  sometimes  they  are  entirely  destroyed  on  the  cut  side.  This  often 
causes  the  plant  to  grow  and  increase  on  one  side  only,  which  looks  very 
unsightly. — Aspirant. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Strawberries. —  Young  Plantations.  —  Quarters  of  young  plants 
established  early  or  late  in  the  previous  autumn  will  now  be  benefited 
by  stirring  the  soil  between  the  rows  of  plants.  In  soil  of  a  stiff  reten¬ 
tive  character,  or  any  that  has  become  more  or  less  consolidated  owing 
to  the  wet,  the  loosening  will  be  best  done  with  a  fork.  Where  a  Dutch 
hoe  will  pass  readily  through  the  soil  this  is  the  best  implement,  because 
the  soil  does  not  necessarily  require  moving  deeply,  especially  near  the 
plants.  The  object  of  hoeing  is  to  destroy  and  keep  down  weeds. 
Further  than  this,  a  loose,  shallow,  open  surface  is  very  beneficial  to 
young  plants  ?,s  it  accelerates  their  growth,  inasmuch  as  the  soil  is 
warmed  and  the  oxygen  of  the  air  admitted.  The  crumbly  layer  of  dry 
soil  thus  formed  also  prevents  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture,  a  matter 
of  importance  in  a  dry  spring  and  early  summer.  In  a  wet  season,  too, 
hoeing  is  of  advantage  during  the  dry  periods  which  may  follow  the 
moist — that  is,  when  the  soil  becomes  caked  on  the  surface.  Any  plants 
that  have  become  loosened  during  the  winter  should  be  made  firm. 
Old  Plantations. — If  a  manurial  mulch  were  not  applied  to  these  in 
autumn  a  dressing  now  is  really  desirable  for  enriching  the  Boil  and 
strengthening  the  growth.  A  dressing  of  soot  may  first  be  given, 
scattering  it  round  the  plants,  not  actually  over  the  crowns.  A  peck  of 
soot  to  a  rod  will  both  be  useful  as  a  manure  and  as  a  destroyer  of 
slugs,  which  invariably  lurk  about  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  in  all 
cases  strong  weeds  should  be  forked  out.  These  include  Dandelions, 
Docks,  Couch  Grass,  Nettles,  and  Bindweed,  all  of  which  have  perennial 
roots,  and  though  the  tops  may  be  cut  down  further  growth  is  soon 
made.  Annual  weeds,  as  groundsel  and  chickweed,  are  soon  destroyed 
in  dry  weather  after  being  cut  down 
The  manure  applied  must  be  rich  and  moist  decomposed  farmyard 
manure.  Strawberries  well  manured  in  autumn  with  similar  material 
do  not  require  a  mulching  of  the  same  character  now,  bw  one  of  fresh 
littery  manure.  The  solid  parts  of  this  afford  some  nutriment,  and  the 
straw  or  litter  becomes  bleached  or  washed,  by  which  a  clean  bed  is 
secured  for  the  fruit  to  rest  upon  when  ripe. 
Applying  Artificial  Manures.— It  is  only  old  or  established  beds  in 
bearing  tuat  need  assistance  with  chemical  or  artificial  manures.  With 
young  plants  stimulating  manures  are  more  likely  to  cause  super¬ 
abundant  growth  of  foliage  when  the  plants  are  not  in  bearing  to  check 
this  disposition.  A  mixture  of  artificials,  comprising  important 
elements  of  plant  food  likely  to  be  deficient  in  the  soil,  are  the  most 
advantageous.  Nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid,  and  potash  are  usually 
required  to  be  added  oftener  than  other  elements  also  essential,  but 
generally  present  in  all  fertile  soils.  A  fertiliser  compounded  of  the 
following  is  good  for  Strawberries  requiring  additional  help  : _ 2  lbs. 
each  nitrate  of  soda,  sulphate  of  ammonia"  and  potash,  with  4  lbs. 
mineral  phosphate.  This  would  be  sufficient  for  a  rod  of  ground. 
Crush  the  salts  quite  fine,  and  mix  the  whole  compound  with  some  dry 
earth.  This  will  insure  the  mixture  being  distributed  evenly.  Nitrate 
of  soda  alone  is  a  useful  manure  in  spring  for  Strawberries,  because  it 
affords  direct  and  special  food  to  plants  at  a  time  when  they  find  diffi¬ 
culty  in  obtaining  it  from  the  soil  owing  to  the  conditions  for  supplying 
nitrogen  in  the  form  of  nitrates  not  being  sufficiently  present  in  the  soil 
at  this  season.  Nitrate  of  soda,  crushed  very  fine  and  mixed  with  soil, 
may  be  applied  at  the  rate  of  1J  to  2  lbs.  per  rod. 
New  Plantations. — Plants  placed  in  nursery  beds  in  autumn  to  form 
more  roots  and  increase  in  size  before  finally  planting  may  now  be 
transferred  to  permanent  quarters.  The  winter  season  has  afforded  an 
opportunity  to  prepare  the  soil  thoroughly.  Strawberries  require  rich, 
deep,  firm  soil.  Before  planting  the  essential  conditions  for  encouraging 
free  strong  growth  should  be  studied,  adopting  the  best  means  for 
improving  the  soil  in  order  that  it  may  remain  in  fairly  good  heart  for 
at  least  three  years,  the  usual  period  Strawberries  remain  profitable. 
They  succeed  well  if  planted  on  freshly  dug  and  manured  ground,  but  it 
is  advisable  on  light  soils  to  firm  the  ground  well  before  planting,  select¬ 
ing  a  dry  period  for  the  work  of  compression,  which  may  be  carried  out 
by  treading  or  rolling. 
Plants  from  nursery  beds  ought  to  be  carefully  lifted  with  as  much 
soil  adhering  to  the  roots  as  possible,  and  placed  a  little  deeper  in  the 
ground  than  before.  Avoid  crushing  the  tipB  of  fibrous  roots  into 
holes  too  small,  but  place  so  that  they  may  be  able  to  extend  freely. 
More  care,  however,  is  required  with  plants  having  no  adhering  soil. 
The  roots  should  be  spread  out  on  little  mounds  of  soil,  carefully  cover¬ 
ing  with  fine  material  spread  over  them  from  the  crowns  outwards. 
Press  the  soil  firmly  and  equally  about  them  when  the  roots  are  covered, 
levelling  the  remaining  soil  with  the  spade. 
The  distance  between  the  rows  of  plants  is  governed  by  the  habit  of 
the  variety  planted.  Strong  growers,  like  Sir  J.  Paxton,  James  Yeitch, 
and  Noble,  need  the  rows  to  be  30  inches  apart,  the  plants  20  to 
22  inches  asunder  in  the  rows.  Two  feet  between  the  rows  is  the  best 
distance  for  the  majority  of  varieties  of  medium  growth,  the  plants 
18  inches  asunder.  Smaller  growers  of  the  type  of  Vicomtesse  Hericart 
de  Thury  may  be  15  inches  from  plant  to  plant  in  the  rows,  the  latter 
2  feet  asunder,  which  is  more  convenient  than  narrower  rows. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. —  Earliest  Forced  House.  —  Where 
Alexander  or  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with 
Cardinal  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarines  are  grown,  either  in  pots  or 
planted  out,  the  fruit  will  soon  have  completed  the  stoning,  and  will 
advance  rapidly  to  ripening  if  duly  supplied  with  nourishment  and  the 
trees  are  not  overburdened  with  fruit.  This  swells  and  ripens  under  the 
same  conditions  as  are  required  by  the  older  second  early  and  midseason 
varieties  whilst  stoning.  The  temperature  then  requires  to  be  kept  as 
equable  as  possible,  too  much  heat  at  night  being  unfavourable  to  the 
fruit,  and  cold  draughts  in  the  daytime  often  giving  a  check  that  causes 
it  to  fall.  This  must  be  avoided  by  judicious  early  ventilation  made  up 
for  by  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  ;  but  cutting  winds  are  so  per¬ 
nicious  as  to  bring  off  the  fruit  wholesale,  and  drying  the  atmosphere  by 
over-fumigation  is  equally  disastrous.  Continue  the  temperature  at  60° 
to  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  75°  through  the  day,  syringing  morning  and 
afternoon  to  k°ep  red  spider  in  subjection,  but  promptly  eradicate  it  by 
an  insecticide  if  it  gains  a  footing.  Thin  the  fruit  directly  the  stoning 
is  effected  to  the  number  required  for  the  crop.  It  is  not  wise  to  let  the 
trees  stone  twice  as  many  fruit  as  are  required,  and  it  often  happens  that 
leaving  too  many  brings  off  the  major  portion.  One  fruit  to  a  foot  of 
trellis  is  ample  for  the  large-fruited  varieties  ;  medium-sized  fruited  sorts 
and  Nectarines  may  be  left  a  little  closer.  Tie  the  shoots  to  the  trellis 
as  they  advance,  and  stop  any  growing  too  long  at  12  to  15  inches, 
pinching  laterals  to  one  leaf,  and,  above  all  things,  avoid  overcrowding. 
Shoots  retained  to  attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit  should  be  closely  pinched 
to  one  leaf  unless  the  trees  are  weak  and  it  is  desirable  to  encourage 
root  action  by  a  little  extension,  yet  do  not  allow  more  growth  than 
there  is  room  for. 
Succeision  Houses. — Disbudding  and  tying-in  must  be  attended  to 
before  the  shoots  become  too  long,  disbudding  gradually.  If  the 
blossoms  have  set  thickly — more  than  a  dozen  on  a  length  of  1  foot  of 
shoot — thin  them  soon  after  the  remainder  of  the  blossoms  are  cast, 
removing  the  smallest  fruits,  those  on  the  under  side  of  the  branches  and 
the  badly  placed,  leaving  about  three  of  the  best.  These  in  turn  should 
be  reduced  to  two  or  one  when  the  size  of  marbles,  or  not  later  than  as 
large  as  Walnuts.  The  temperature  may  be  raised  to  55°  to  60°  at  night, 
and  60°  to  65°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  ventilating  from  65°,  and  insuring 
75°  from  sun  heat,  closing  moderately  early  in  the  afternoon,  but  avoid 
a  close  atmosphere. 
Late  Houses. — With  the  buds  swelling  a  light  syringing  occasionally 
may  be  indulged  in  until  the  stamens  appear,  when  the  floors  and 
borders  may  be  damped  instead  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  leaving 
a  little  air  on  constantly,  and  employing  fire  heat  only  to  exclude  frost. 
After  the  flowers  open  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  40°  to  45°,  50° 
by  day  in  dull  weather,  5°  more  when  mild,  with  a  free  circulation  of 
air,  advancing  to  65°  with  sun.  Where  the  blossom  is  superabundant 
it  will  be  advisable,  especially  in  the  case  of  weakly  trees,  to  remove  the 
flowers  from  the  under  side  or  back  of  the  shoots,  as  the  trees  may  be 
against  front  or  back  trellises.  The  borders  must  not  lack  moisture, 
affording  thorough  supplies  where  needed,  repeating,  if  necessary,  so  as 
to  bring  them  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state,  but  avoid  making  the  soil 
sodden. 
