March  11,  1*97. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
219- 
Vines. — Eyes. — When  those  inserted  as  advised  are  well  rooted  they 
should  be  potted  singly,  or,  if  inserted  in  small  pots,  shifted  into  6-inch 
pots  as  soon  as  the  roots  reach  the  sides  of  the  smaller,  placing  them  on 
shelves  over  the  hot-water  pipes.  Syringe  well  amongst  them,  and 
pinch  laterals  at  the  first  leaf,  unless  they  are  intended  to  be  planted 
out  this  season  and  not  fruited  the  next,  when  the  laterals  may  be  left 
entire,  but  in  that  case  the  Vines  must  be  planted  before  the  roots 
become  matted. 
Cut-bach. — For  fruiting  in  pots  next  season  these  Vines  will  now  be 
fit  for  shaking  out  and  repotting,  or  if  that  has  already  been  done,  and 
the  roots  have  reached  the  sides  of  the  pots,  they  will  need  shifting  into 
the  fruiting,  12-inch,  pots.  If  they  have  been  given  bottom  heat  they 
should  be  returned  to  it  for  a  time,  75°  to  80°  being  sufficient,  otherwise 
bottom  heat  is  not  necessary,  yet  the  pots  are  better  stood  on  slates  over 
hot-water  pipes  than  on  a  cool  bottom.  Keep  the  house  close  and 
moderately  moist  until  they  become  established.  Train  the  canes  near 
the  glass,  pinching  the  laterals  to  one  leaf,  and  thus  secure  solidified  and 
plump  buds.  Use  clean  pots  and  efficient  drainage.  Turfy  loam  with 
a  fifth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  answers  well  for  potting,  but  a  pint  each 
of  steamed  bonemeal  and  soot,  and  double  quantity  of  wood  ashes  may 
■  be  mixed  with  every  bushel  of  soil. 
Earliest  in  Po  s. — Canes  started  last  November  have  the  Grapes  in 
the  last  stages  of  swelling,  and  must  be  adequately  supported  with 
liquid  manure  and  rich  dressing,  while  if  the  roots  extend  beyond 
the  pots  feed  them  there  as  well  as  in  the  pots.  The  very  early  varieties, 
such  as  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and 
Madresfield  Court,  are  well  advanced  towards  ripening,  and  will  need 
clean  tepid  water  after  the  colour  is  well  pronounced.  A  circulation  of 
warm  moderately  dry  air  conduces  to  the  colour  and  flavour  of  the  fruit, 
but  the  Vines  must  not  lack  the  needful  supplies  of  water  to  keep 
the  foliage  fresh,  or  the  atmosohere  be  allowed  to  become  so  parched 
as  to  invite  red  spider,  for  the  Grapes  require  some  little  time  to  mature 
after  being  apparently  ripe,  and  a  moderate  amount  of  atmospheric 
moisture  without  stagnation  is  essential  to  their  remaining  plump  and 
fresh  until  cut. 
Early  Houses. — Vines  started  early  in  December  and  previously 
forced  will  have  the  Grapes  atoned,  and  should  have  copious  supplies  of 
liquid  manure  or  a  top-dressing  of  an  approved  fertiliser  washed  in. 
A  light  mulching  of  lumpy,  partially  decayed  manure  may  be  placed  on 
the  border,  as  the  Grapes  swell  considerably  in  the  later  stages,  even 
after-commencing  to  colour,  and  allow  a  little  lateral  extension,  as  every 
leaf  encourages  root  action,  and  that  leaf  duly  exposed  to  light  and  air 
aids  the  Grapes  in  swelling  and  finishing.  The  Vines  started  later  in 
the  year,  and  of  which  the  berries  have  been  thinned,  will  need  liquid 
manure  applied  to  inside  bordeis  ;  but  surface  dressings  are  more  potent 
in  accelerating  and  keeping  surface  roots,  and  a  good  handful  of  almost 
any  of  the  advertised  fertilisers  per  square  yard  makes  a  wonderful 
difference  in  the  colour  of  the  foliage,  which  means  ultimately  good 
colour  and  high  finish  in  the  Grapes.  Ventilation  needs  to  be  carefully 
attended  to,  as  with  sharp  winds  and  bright  gleams  of  sun  the 
temperature  is  subject  to  sudden  alternations,  which  must  be  avoided  by 
admitting  air  in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  always  in  advance  of  rather 
than  after  a  great  rise  of  temperature,  taking  care  to  allow  a  good  rise 
from  sun  heat  after  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  at  80°  to  85°,  allowing 
the  temperature  to  fall  to  65°  at  night,  or  even  60°  when  very  cold. 
Vines  started  in  January  and  not  forced  before  have  pushed  slowly, 
and  some  that  have  started  freely  show  a  tendency  in  the  bunches  to 
twist  and  curl,  whilst  others  are  “  blind.”  This  may  be  a  consequence 
of  unripe  wood  and  imperfectly  formed  embryonic  bunches.  Nothing 
can  be  done  in  such  cases,  but  a  slight  increase  of  temperature  and  a 
reduced  supply  of  moisture  may  be  beneficial.  Avoid  the  close-stopping 
system  until  every  part  of  the  trellis  is  well  covered  with  foliage,  then 
allow  no  more  than  there  is  room  for.  Vines  started  with  the  year  will 
be  in  flower,  and  should  have  a  rather  drier  atmosphere  with  a  gentle 
circulation  of  air  and  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night  and  70°  to  75° 
in  the  daytime,  with  10°  to  15°  rise  from  sun  heat,  maintaining  moderate 
moisture  by  damping  the  house  two  or  three  times  a  day  in  bright 
weather.  Muscats  should  have  at  least  5°  higher  temperature,  and  the 
flowers  must  be  carefully  fertilised. 
Succession  Houses. — Disbud  and  Becurethe  growths  as  they  advance, 
stopping  them  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches  where  the  space  is  limited, 
but  where  there  is  room  allow  a  greater  extension  of  the  shoots  before 
stopping  them.  Kemove  the  laterals  from  the  joints  below  the  show  for 
fruit,  except  from  the  two  base  leaves,  stopping  those  at  the  first  leaf 
and  to  one  afterwards  as  produced.  The  laterals  above  the  fruit  may 
be  allowed  to  make  such  growth  as  can  have  full  exposure  to  light 
without  crowding,  and  then  be  stopped,  keeping  them  pinched  after¬ 
wards  as  in  the  case  of  those  not  having  room  for  extension.  Remove 
all  superfluous  and  ill-formed  bunches  of  the  free-setting  varieties  as 
soon  as  those  that  are  the  most  promising  for  the  crop  can  be  selected. 
Maintain  the  borders  in  a  proper  state  of  moisture,  and  secure  a  genial 
atmosphere  by  damping  the  house  well  at  closing  time  as  well  as  in  the 
morning  and  evening.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  66°  at  night  is  suitable 
after  the  Vines  come  into  leaf,  allowing  65°  to  70°  on  dull  days  and  75° 
to  80°  with  sun  and  ventilation,  taking  care  to  ventilate  early,  to  avoid 
cold  draughts,  and  to  close  early. 
Late  Houses. — Vines  to  afford  ripe  Grapes  in  August  onwards  must 
be  started,  and  Muscats,  with  other  varieties,  should  be  encouraged  to 
move,  as  the  fruit  keeps  much  better  when  ripened  in  August  or  early 
in  September  than  when  the  season  is  more  advanced  at  the  ripening 
period.  Vines  which  have  only  been  recently  pruned  should  be  given  a 
little  rest  before  starting  them,  yet  all  thick-skinned  varieties  should 
be  started  not  later  than  early  in  April,  for  they  take  a  long  time  to 
ripen  properly  for  keeping,  and  should  be  assisted  all  along  with  fire 
heat,  as  upon  their  thorough  ripening  depends  the  Grapes  keeping 
sound.  Inside  borders  may  be  brought  into  a  thorough  state  of  moisture 
by  the  application  of  water,  and  if  followed  by  an  application  of  rather 
thick,  but  not  too  strong,  liquid  manure,  it  will  excite  root  activity  as 
well  aB  nourish  the  Vines.  Outside  borders  will  only  need  a  little 
partially  decayed  manure  as  a  mulch  to  protect  the  roots  from  chill  by 
frost  or  snow.  The  atmosphere  must  be  kept  genial,  sprinkling  the  rods 
and  every  surface  about  the  house  two  or  three  times  a  day,  maintaining 
a  temperature  of  60°  at  night  or  55°  when  mild,  and  65°  by  day  with 
sun.  Late  Hamburgh  houses  may  be  kept  cool,  not  starting  the  Vines 
until  next  month — indeed,  they  may  be  allowed  to  push  naturally.  It 
will  suffice  if  they  have  the  fruit  set  by  early  in  June,  and  the  Grapes 
are  ripe  in  September. 
% 
S3 
X-JH/JLV  XViVXVJTXVXV. 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
The  weather,  which  is  an  important  factor  in  connection  with 
the  pastime  of  bee-keeping,  has  been  very  changeable  since  the 
commencement  of  the  new  year.  During  the  early  days  of 
February  there  was  a  deluge  of  rain,  followed  by  a  few  bright  days, 
which  allowed  the  bees  to  have  a  good  cleansing  flight.  Then 
more  snow  and  rain,  accompanied  by  high  winds,  which  have 
continued  with  more  or  less  severity  to  the  present  time. 
The  temperature  has  not  been  extremely  low,  as  on  no  occasion 
was  there  more  than  10°  of  frost  registered.  The  bees,  however, 
derived  great  benefit  from  the  few  sunny  days  ;  but  as  the  ground 
was  covered  with  snow  on  two  or  three  occasions  many  bees  were 
lost  owing  to  alighting  on  the  snow  and  becoming  chilled.  The 
mischief  arising  from  this  cause  has  not  been  so  serious  as  in  some 
previous  years.  It  is  an  advantage  to  shade  the  entrance  of  hives 
during  spells  of  bright  sunshine  in  early  spring  when  the  ground 
is  covered  with  snow.  The  bees  will  then  remain  in  their  hives 
instead  of  being  tempted  out  in  their  thousands,  many  of  them 
never  to  return  again. 
The  genial  weather  enabled  the  bee-keeper  to  make  a  partial 
overhaul  of  his  stocks,  and  in  doing  so  several  instances  were 
found  of  the  penetrating  power  of  snow.  If  there  is  a  weak  place 
in  the  roof  or  sides  of  hive  which  to  all  appearance  is  rain  proof,  if 
examined  after  a  heavy  snowstorm  the  interior  of  the  hive  and 
floor- board  will  be  often  found  to  be  saturated  ;  but  if  the  snow 
is  cleared  off  the  hive  before  it  thaws  there  will  be  less  danger  of 
its  penetrating  through  the  crevices. 
In  my  own  apiary  several  of  the  floor-boards  were  damp,  these 
were  replaced  with  dry  boards,  which  shows  the  advantage  of 
having  loose  floor  boards,  by  the  ready  manner  in  which  they  may 
be  removed  without  disturbing  the  bees,  as  at  this  season  there  is 
always  an  accumulation  of  dirt  from  the  cappings  which  the  bees 
are  unable  to  remove  during  the  winter  months,  and  if  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  hive  will  cause  the  floor  to  become  damp  and  mouldy. 
The  wax  moth,  too,  which  is  so  detrimental  to  combs,  will  breed  in 
the  debris. 
Queenlessness. 
At  this  season  more  than  any  other  stocks  are  often  found 
without  a  queen.  This  arises  from  a  variety  of  causes,  but  the 
chief  one  is  in  having  old  worn  out  queens.  During  the  past  few 
days  I  have  been  consulted  as  to  the  loss  of  four  colonies  by  as 
many  bee-keepers,  and  in  each  case  I  am  convinced  the  above  was 
the  cause.  In  two  instances  the  bees  were  in  straw  skeps,  and  had 
been  first  swarms  for  two  years  in  succession.  Young  queens  had 
not  been  raised  or  introduced.  The  old  queen  having  become 
decrepit  and  worn  out  from  old  age  would  in  all  probability  be 
turned  out  of  the  hive  by  the  workers  when  it  w  is  too  late  to  raise 
a  young  queen.  The  bees  remaining  in  the  hive  would  rapidly 
dwindle  away,  and  the  first  spell  of  severe  weather  would  kill 
them. 
The  winter  is  then  blamed  for  the  mishap,  whereas  it  was  the 
management  that  was  at  fault.  The  other  case  that  came  under  my 
notice  was  somewhat  different,  although  the  cause  and  result  were 
the  same.  The  bees  in  this  instance  were  kept  in  frame  hives,, 
which  had  not  swarmed  for  two  years  owing  to  extra  space  being 
provided  for  them  in  working  sections.  Had  young  queens  been 
given  to  them  after  the  removal  of  Sections  in  the  autumn  they 
would  now  without  doubt  have  been  strong  prosperous  colonies,  as 
they  were  well  provided  with  stores.  This  is  a  fact  that  should  be 
constantly  kept  in  mind  by  bee-keepers— the  necessity  of  raising 
young  queens,  as  in  a  general  way  it  is  not  wise  to  keep  queens  after 
they  are  two  years  old.  The  old  queen  may  be  removed  and  a 
young  one  introduced  at  any  time  except  midwinter,  as  advocated- 
