238 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Kerch  18  1*97- 
WOR11foi\theWEEK.. 
n  wwmm 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Winter  fruiters  will  require  frequent  attention  for 
removing  exhausted  growths  and  bad  leaves,  thinning  where  too  crowded 
in  order  to  encourage  a  free  growth  and  a  successional  supply  of  clean, 
straight  fruit.  Stop  the  bearing  parts  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit,  and 
secure  the  growths  to  the  trellis.  It  will  much  invigorate  the  plants  by 
removing  a  little  of  the  surface  soil  where  it  can  be  done  without 
Injuring  the  roots,  supplying  a  top-dfessing  of  turfy  loam  with  a 
sprinkling  of  approved  fertiliser.  When  the  roots  are  active  in  the  top¬ 
dressing  sprinkle  a  few  sweetened  horse  droppings  on  the  bed  occasion¬ 
ally,  with  a  light  dusting  of  soot — a  small  handful  per  square  yard — 
alternating  with  the  fertiliser  so  as  to  get  plenty  of  vigour  in  the  plants 
and  colour  in  the  fruit.  If  that  is  not  enough,  and  the  plants  crop 
heavily,  supply  liquid  manure  of  a  nitrogenous  nature,  such  as  nitrate  of 
soda,  at  the  rate  of  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  always  having  the 
water  or  liquid  equal  in  temperature  to  that  of  the  mean  of  the  house. 
Young  plants  will  need  more  soil,  adding  to  the  hillocks  or  ridges  as 
the  roots  protrude,  always  having  it  warmed  and  in  a  properly  moist 
condition.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  when  mild,  70° 
to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90Q  from 
sun  heat, closing  early  in  the  afternoon  with  abundance  of  moisture  so  as 
to  run  up  to  95°orl00°on  bright  days,  securing  a  steady  bottom  heat  of  80°. 
Manure-heated  pits  and  frames  which  have  been  set  to  work  some 
weeks  will  require  good  linings.  This  is  best  effected  by  removing  as 
much  of  the  outside  of  the  beds  as  can  be  spared,  and  if  the  heat  has 
not  much  declined  it  will  suffice  to  line  one  half  of  the  hed  at  once, 
deferring  the  other  half  until  the  heat  is  again  on  the  decline.  To  be 
effective  the  lining  should  be  2  feet  wide,  for  thin  linings  are  soon 
spent,  and  sooner  require  renewal.  Look  carefully  to  the  frame  after  the 
heat  generates  in  the  lining  to  see  that  there  is  no  accumulation  of  rank 
steam,  preventing  it  by  a  little  ventilation,  especially  when  the  sun 
shines.  Add  more  soil  as  the  roots  spread  on  tbe  surface,  taking  care  to 
have  it  warmed.  Attend  to  training  and  pegging  the  shoots,  not  over¬ 
crowding  them ;  pinch  the  leaders  a  foot  from  the  sides  of  the  frame, 
and  stop  the  laterals  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  In  watering  do 
not  wet  the  foliage  more  than  can  be  helped,  as  it  is  quite  soft  and  easily 
scorched.  A  good  night  covering  will  be  necessary  to  maintain  a 
"temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  though  it  may  fall  lower  on  cold  nights. 
Admit  a  little  air  at  75°,  allowing  the  temperature  to  rise  to  85°  or  90°, 
closing  before  it  falls  below  85°,  and  if  it  rise  to  90°  or  more  the  day’s 
work  will  be  better,  and  a  good  heat  stored  for  the  night.  The  night 
coverings  should  be  put  on  by  the  time  the  sun  is  off  the  lights,  say 
about  five  o’clock  in  severe  weather,  never  delaying  beyond  six  o’clock 
in  the  afternoon  at  this  time  of  the  year. 
Tigs.— Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — The  very  early  varieties, 
such  as  St.  John’s  and  Early  Violet,  that  were  started  in  gentle  bottom 
heal  by  the  middle  of  November,  are  now  showing  Bigns  of  taking  the 
last  swelling  for  ripening.  Pingo  de  Mel,  Brown  Turkey,  and  White 
Marseilles,  however,  are  still  stationary.  They  must  not  be  hurried,  as 
this  is  the  most  critical  time  in  Fig  culture,  checks  of  any  kind  causing 
the  fruit  to  fall,  and  this  must  be  carefully  guarded  against  by  maintain¬ 
ing  an  equable  temperature,  making  the  most  of  fine  days  for  giving  air, 
and  closing  early  so  as  to  secure  safe  advancement.  After  the  fruit  gives 
indications  of  ripening  water  must  be  withheld  ;  yet,  though  less  water 
at  the  roots  is  necessary,  there  must  not  be  anything  like  dryness  in  the 
soil.  Until  the  fruit  changes  for  ripening  the  trees  must  be  well 
supplied  with  liquid  manure,  giving  the  whole  rooting  area  a  thorough 
■supply,  and  to  trees  safely  passed  the  flowering  stage  a  thoroughsoaking 
of  water  a  few  degrees  warmer  than  the  bed  acts  like  a  charm  on  Fig- 
tree  roots,  especially  when  a  light  mulching  is  supplied  of  sweetened 
lumpy  manure,  as  tfhis  absorbs  moisture  when  the  trees  are  syringed,  and 
the  changes  it  undergoes  attract  the  roots,  whilst  a  genial  vapour  is 
given  off  highly  favourable  to  the  foliage.  Syringe  twice  on  fine  days, 
once  a  day  when  the  weather  is  dull,  always  giving  the  second  syringing 
in  time  for  the  foliage  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night.  Maintain  a 
night  temperature  of  65°  in  mild  weather,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  with 
sun  secure  a  heat  ranging  from  75°  to  85°,  closing  early  so  as  to  raise  it 
to  90°  or  more,  as  Figs  swell  best  with  abundance  of  heat,  moisture,  and 
light ;  full  exposure  to  sunshine  being  absolutely  essential  to  secure 
high  quality.  Stop  side  shoots  at  the  fourth  or  fifth  leaf,  not  allowing 
them  to  become  crowded  ;  then,  where  needed,  train  terminals  forward 
where  space  remains  unfilled,  and  it  can  be  done  without  shading  the  fruit. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — Where  the  roots  are  confined  to 
narrow  limits,  as  they  should  be,  U9e  sweet  rather  lumpy  material  as 
top-dressing.  This  should  be  moistened  as  often  as  it  becomes  dry,  as 
that  is  necessary  for  decay  and  the  evolving  of  manurial  elements, 
especially  ammonia,  which  in  minute  quantities  and  in  regular  supply 
has  a  marked  effect  on  the  health  of  the  trees.  Syringe  the  trees 
thoroughly  twice  a  day,  or  damp  the  paths  and  other  surfaces  frequently 
on  dull  days.  Keep  the  temperature  at  60°  to  65°  at  night  in  mild 
weather,  5°  less  on  frosty  nights,  ventilating  from  70°,  and  keeping 
through  the  day  between  75°  and  85°  from  sun  heat,  attending  to  air¬ 
giving  early,  closing  with  a  brisk  heat  about  three  o’clock  in  the 
afternoon  or  earlier  when  cloudy.  The  growth  is  rapid,  therefore  give 
frequent  attention  to  stopping  side  shoots  at  the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf,  as 
these  give  the  best  results  in  the  second  crop,  but  avoid  too  many,  for 
Figs  are  produced  in  proportion  to  the  light  received  ;  hence  where  two 
shoots  or  more  appear  rub  off  all  but  one,  retaining  those  only  that  can 
have  full  exposure  to  light,  otherwise  they  will  not  be  sturdy  and 
fruitful.  Train  terminals  and  successional  growth  to  replace  those 
reaching  tbe  limits  and  to  be  cut  out  after  fruiting  in  their  full  length. 
Late  Houses. — Very  fine  crops  of  Figs  are  grown  in  houses  with  a 
south  aspect,  even  when  unheated.  Tbe  trees  should  be  trained  down 
rather  than  up  the  roof,  as  the  fruits  always  face  the  sun,  and  are  sturdy 
and  fruitful  in  consequence.  Brunswick  and  Negro  Largo,  both  strong 
growers  and  bearing  grand  fruit,  do  well  under  such  treatment,  planting 
them  at  the  back  of  the  house,  training  the  trees  with  single  stems  up 
the  back  wall  of  a  lean-to  and  the  fruiting  branches  disposed  down  the 
roof  on  a  trellis  about  16  inches  from  the  glass.  In  that  form  it  is 
questionable  if  there  are  two  finer  Figs  for  cool  houses,  Black  Genoa 
also  affording  enormous  fruit  of  highest  quality.  For  general  purposes 
Brown  Turkey  stands  unrivalled,  White  Marseilles  being  a  fine,  large, 
roundish  fruit,  and  freely  produced  where  there  is  room.  Grizzly 
Bourjassote  is  the  most  constant  for  delicious  flavour,  and  ought  to  have 
neat.  For  late  supplies  Negro  Largo,  Nubian,  and  Agen  are  excellent, 
but  these  must  have  heat  to  ripen  the  late  fruits  perfectly.  The  grand 
secret  in  growing  Figs  is  plenty  of  light  and  heat,  and  the  principal 
points  in  their  culture  consist  in  keeping  the  growths  thin,  their  points 
always  facing  the  light,  and  when  growing  afford  generous  treatment, 
Melons. — To  secure  a  good  set  of  fruit  on  the  earliest  plants  it  is 
necessary  to  keep  the  bottom  heat  at  80°  to  85°,  with  sufficient  moisture 
in  the  soil  to  prevent  flagging.  Activity  at  the  roots  is  essential  to  the 
fruit  swelling,  and  will  not  induce  grossness  unless  the  soil  is  surcharged 
with  water  it  ought  to  incline  to  dryness,  so  as  to  arrest  growth,  which 
centres  the  forces  on  reproduction.  A  rather  dry  warm  air  favours  the 
production  of  pollen,  affording  a  little  air  constantly  to  prevent  the 
deposition  of  moisture  on  the  flowers.  Fertilise  the  blossoms  every  day 
when  fully  expanded,  and  stop  the  growths  one  joint  beyond  the  fruits. 
When  these  commence  swelling  remove  all  flowers,  earthing  the  roots  by 
placing  warm  soil  against  the  sides  of  the  hillocks  or  ridges,  pressing  it 
firmly.  Apply  water  as  required,  avoid  a  soddened  condition  of  the  soil, 
sprinkle  the  floors  in  the  morning  and  evening,  lightly  syringing  the 
plants  at  closing  time  when  the  days  are  bright. 
Melons,  to  swell  well,  require  a  night  temperature  of  65°.  ora  little 
more  in  mild  weather,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  90°  from  sun 
heat,  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  so  as  to  raise  to  90°  or  95°,  even  100° 
doing  no  harm  provided  the  atmosphere  is  moist.  If  a  succession  of 
fruit  is  wanted  in  the  same  house  some  of  the  plants  should  be  deprived 
of  the  flowers  that  appear  on  the  first  laterals  ;  stopping  these  at  the 
second  joint  will  cause  the  sub-laterals  to  show  fruit,  which  will  be 
several  days  later  and  the  fruit  finer,  because  the  plants  are  stronger, 
but  quality  depends  upon  the  solidification  of  the  growths— their 
exposure  to  light  and  steady  supplies  of  nutrition.  Place  supports  to  the 
fruits  in  due  course  to  relieve  the  plants  of  the  weight ;  pieces  of  J-inch 
deal  6  or  7  inches  square,  suspended  in  a  sloping  direction  by  four  pieces 
of  wire  from  the  trellis  answer  well,  or  squares  of  garden  netting 
fastened  to  the  trellis  by  four  pieces  of  string  may  be  used.  Make 
additional  plantings,  press  the  soil  around  each  plant,  shading  for  a  few 
days  if  the  sun  be  powerful  for  a  couple  of  hours  in  the  middle  of  the 
day,  discontinuing  it  when  the  plants  become  established.  Young 
plants  should  be  grown  near  the  glass  in  order  to  keep  them  sturdy. 
Sow  for  succession. 
Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames. — These  require  similar  treatment  to 
Cucumbers  on  lining  the  beds,  adding  fresh  soil  as  the  growth  advances 
and  covering  the  lights  at  night.  Train  and  regulate  the  shoots,  removing 
every  alternate  lateral,  and  apply  water  only  to  maintain  a  steady 
growth.  Seedlings  may  be  potted  singly  as  soon  as  they  show  the  second 
leaves.  Seed  should  be  sown  to  furnish  plants  for  pits  and  frames  as 
they  become  cleared  of  forced  Potatoes  and  Radishes,  about  five  weeks 
being  necessary  to  secure  strong  plants  for  placing  out  before  they 
become  root-bound. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Work  in  Shrubberies. — Shrubberies  generally  ought  now  to  be 
put  into  good  order  for  the  season.  In  many  instances  the  older  ones 
will  be  much  improved  by  having  some  of  the  uglieBt  overgrown  Laurels 
sawn  down  to  near  the  ground,  others  merely  require  to  have  some  of 
the  branches  freely  shortened  back,  while  all  pay  for  timely  attention 
in  the  way  of  pegging  down  branches  of  Laurels,  Rhododendrons,  and 
Aucubas  especially  wherever  the  fronts  are  badly  furnished.  Where 
extra  large  Laurels  are  cut  down  it  will  in  some  cases  be  necessary  to 
plant  a  few  young  bushes,  and  these  will  grow  and  fill  the  space  in 
conjunction  with  the  branches  from  old  stumps  much  more  regularly 
than  before.  Newly  formed  shrubberies  are  usually  planted  much  more 
thickly  than  is  ultimately  good  for  the  trees  and  bushes.  Thinning-out 
ought,  therefore,  to  be  freely  resorted  to,  transplanting  a  portion  of  the 
shrubs  to  where  there  are  more  needed  being  the  wisest  course  to  pursue. 
This  work  may  be  continued  for  another  six  weeks,  always  providing  it 
is  done  well.  Nor  should  pruning  be  neglected  in  the  case  of  young 
shrubberies,  as,  with  the  aid  of  a  knife  used  just  now,  many  plants  can 
be  kept  within  bounds  and  of  better  form  than  if  allowed  to  grow  at 
will.  All  open  shrubberies  especially  ought  to  be  lightly  forked  or 
skimmed  over  with  a  spade,  this  burying  much  rubbish  and  presenting  a 
far  neater  appearance. 
Climbers. — The  commoner  and  more  vigorous  kinds,  notably  Ivies 
and  Japanese  Honeysuckle,  are  apt  to  overgrow  the  rest,  and  both  are 
