March  18,  18»7. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
239 
objectionable  when  in  a  rough  state.  When  they  get  too  large  or 
coarse  it  is  a  good  plan  to  cut  them  hard  back  to  the  wall,  or,  better 
still,  down  to  near  the  ground,  the  young  Growths  that  soon  follow 
being  far  more  ornamental  in  appearance.  Ugly  overgrown  plants  of 
Crataegus  pyracantha  might  also  be  cut  down  with  advantage,  young 
spreading  branches  neatly  laid  in  to  a  sunny  wall  invariably  flowering 
and  fruiting  freely.  Thickets  of  Clematises  must  always  be  prevented. 
Those  that  flower  from  young  growths  formed  last  summer  should  be 
only  thinned  out  and  lightly  shortened  back,  but  the  late  summer  and 
autumn  flowering  Bpecies,  including  the  well-known  C.  Jackmanni, 
ought  to  be  freely  shortened,  the  aim  being  to  secure  as  many  strong 
back  growths  as  possible.  These  will  flower  strongly.  All  lateral 
growths  on  Jasminums  to  be  spurred  back  to  the  old  wood,  the  common 
sweet-scented  white  kind  flowering  on  the  young  shoots,  while  J.  nudi- 
florum  will  form  fresh  wood  for  flowering  next  winter.  Chimonanthus 
fragrans,  Pyrus  japonica,  Pomegranate,  Myrtles,  and  Garrya  elliptica  to 
have  all  straggling  branches  shortened  back  and  leading  growths  laid  in. 
Euonymuses  to  be  similarly  treated.  Magnolias  require  no  pruning,  but 
must  be  firmly  fastened  to  the  walls.  Wistaria  sinensis  to  be  treated 
similarly  to  Pears,  the  flowers  being  most  freely  produced  by  short  spurs. 
manuring  Roses, — If  starved  at  the  roots,  Roses  need  not  be 
expected  to  grow  strongly  or  produce  good  solid  blooms.  They  are 
often  located  where  mulchings  of  manure  would  prove  unsightly,  but 
even  this  difficulty  can  be  overcome.  The  simplest  and  best  plan  in 
most  cases  would  be  to  carefully  remove  the  soil  down  to  the  roots  of  the 
plants,  returning  this  after  a  liberal  dressing  of  manure  has  been  given. 
The  manure  being  thus  covered  with  soil  is  well  hid  from  view,  that  is 
if  the  birds  can  be  kept  off.  It  is  within  easy  reach  of  the  roots,  and 
retains  moisture  much  longer  than  it  does  when  spread  on  the  surface. 
Those  Roses  growing  against  sunny  walls  stand  in  especial  need  of  a 
heavy  mulching  of  manure,  and  may  with  advantage  also  frequently 
receive  liberal  supplies  of  water  and  liquid  manure  from  the  present 
time  and  onwards.  The  leaBt  that  can  be  done  for  those  in  the  open  is 
to  lightly  work  in  a  dressing  of  half-decayed  manure,  this  being  done 
directly  after  pruning  is  completed. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Celery. — Celery  Beed  is  generally  sown  too  thickly,  and  there  must 
be  no  undue  delay  in  pricking  out  seedlings.  After  the  plants  are  in 
“rough  leaf ’’and  have  been  exposed  to  the  light  and  sunshine  long 
enough  to  make  them  sturdy,  prick  them  out  2  inches  apart  in  boxes  of 
fine  moderately  rich  soil,  and  place  in  gentle  heat.  Shade  from  bright 
sunshine  for  a  week,  subsequently  raising  them  to  a  light  position. 
From  these  boxes  they  ought  to  be  transplanted  to  beds  of  rich  soil  on 
a  mild  hotbed.  If  wanted  extra  good  for  exhibition  purposes  in  August 
a  few  score  could  be  moved  out  of  the  boxes,  before  they  press  against 
each  other,  into  6-inch  pots,  growing  them  on  shelves  in  gentle  heat  till 
they  are  nearly  large  enough  for  the  open.  Prepare  beds  on  or  even 
above  the  level  specially  for  these  extra  strong  early  plants.  They  will 
grow  more  rapidly  in  these  than  they  will  in  colder  trenches,  blanching 
being  effected  by  means  of  paper  wraps.  Sow  seed  now  for  the  main 
crop.  White  varieties  are  the  first  fit  for  use,  but  if  the  red  or  pink 
stalked  sorts  are  slower  in  blanching  they  are  usually  the  most  solid  and 
the  best  keepers. 
Celerlac. — Those  who  desire  to  have  a  supply  of  Turnip-like  roots 
for  flavouring  soups  or  for  use  as  a  vegetable  should  sow  Beeds  of  Celeriac 
now.  Treat  the  seed  and  the  resulting  plants  in  every  respect  similarly 
to  ordinary  Celery,  eventually  planting  out  on  the  level,  roots,  not 
blanched  stalks,  being  wanted.  If  the  ground  intended  for  early  Cauli¬ 
flowers  is  well  manured  that  crop  will  leave  plenty  behind  for  Celeriac, 
and  will  be  cleared  off  in  time  for  the  latter  to  be  planted  out  in  close 
succession  without  any  further  manuring  or  digging  being  required. 
Kidney  Beans, — During  the  hot  days  of  April  and  May  Kidney 
Beans  succeed  none  too  well  in  pots  under  the  most  favourable  condi¬ 
tions,  and  may  easily  prove  unprofitable.  Where  a  close  succession  is 
imperative  the  sowings  from  this  date  ought  to  be  in  deep  narrow  boxes, 
such  as  may  be  arranged  on  walls  in  forcing  houses  or  on  back  shelves. 
It  will  be  found  that  the  soil  in  these  boxes  will  not  dry  nearly  so 
quickly  as  it  is  liable  to  do  in  pots,  and  if  the  plants  are  not  crowded 
they  will  grow  vigorously.  Red  spider  is  usually  rampant  on  pot 
plants,  but  is  more  easily  kept  under  with  the  syringe  in  the  case  of 
plants  in  boxes.  Canadian  Wonder  or  some  other  equally  robust  heavy¬ 
cropping  variety  should  be  sown  in  rich  soil,  thinning  out  the  plants 
severely  and  feeding  well  at  the  roots  when  they  are  commencing  to 
crop.  Pits  and  frames  are  of  good  service  in  keeping  up  the  supply  of 
Beans.  Raise  successional  plants  in  small  pots,  and  plant  out  in  close 
succession  to  early  Potatoes.  Dispose  them  thinly  in  rows  15  inches  or 
rather  more  apart,  and  keep  well  supplied  with  water. 
Peas. — Birds  and  slugs  have  greatly  disfigured  and  crippled  many  of 
the  early  Peas  turned  out  of  pots  and  not  protected.  If  lines  of  strong 
cotton  strained  over  and  about  the  rows  are  not  sufficient  protection 
galvanised  wire  netting  guards  ought  to  be  used,  taking  care  to  remove 
these  before  the  plants  grow  up  through  them.  Peas  transplant  readily, 
and  if  there  are  many  gaps  in  the  rows  fill  them  up.  Placing  stakes  to 
the  plants  when  first  put  out  i3  recommended,  as  they  afford  a  certain 
amount  of  protection. 
More  seed  of  a  good  early  variety,  and  with  this  an  approved  second 
early  sort,  should  now  be  sown,  that  is  directly  the  ground  is  in  a  fit 
condition  for  the  purpose,  the  rows  to  be  as  far  apart  as  the  known 
height  of  the  varieties  and  the  seed  sown  thinly.  If  the  market  growers’ 
plan  of  growing  Peas  without  stakes  is  tried  sow  the  seed  thinly  in  a 
narrower  drill  than  is  desirable  in  the  case  of  rows  that  are  to  be  staked, 
and  in  this  instance  the  lines  may  be  from  30  inches  to  3  feet  apart. 
Medium  height  to  tall  varieties  are  all  suitable  for  this  method  of  culture, 
as  they  do  not  form  much  superfluous  haulm.  The  comparatively  mild 
winter  has  been  favourable  to  the  preservation  of  mice  and  other  garden 
foes,  and  Pea  seed  is  particularly  enticing  to  the  former.  Coat  tbe  seed 
with  red  lead  prior  to  sowing,  or  introduce  a  cat  into  the  garden  and  let 
it  work  for  its  living. 
Xiettuce — Prick  out  abundance  of  plants  that  have  been  raised 
under  glass.  One  sowing  treated  in  that  way  may  be  made  to  yield  a 
long  succession  of  hearts  in  May  and  June.  Some  may  be  forwarded  in 
boxes  of  good  soil,  and  planted  out  on  warm  borders  or  sunny  open 
positions,  and  the  rest  be  pricked  out  in  nursery  beds,  where  they  can 
be  protected  from  cold  winds  and  slugs,  eventually  transplanting  the 
greater  portion  to  well-prepared  sites.  Sow  more  seed  of  Cos  and 
Cabbage  varieties  thinly  in  boxes  or  unheated  frames,  and  also  on  a 
warm  border.  If  the  latter  is  a  success  the  plants  raised  in  boxes  can 
be  left  to  grow  up  thickly  with  a  view  to  having  a  supply  of  tender 
young  plants  for  cutting  and  use  as  a  salading. 
Seakal-e. — If  the  thongs  or  coarse  roots  broken  off  when  lifting  the 
plants  for  forcing  have  been  saved,  but  are  not  prepared  for  planting 
out  in  April,  it  should  be  done  at  once.  Cut  them  into  short  lengths 
of  about  4  inches,  taking  off  a  thin  slice  from  the  smaller  end,  and 
dibble  them  in,  thicker  end  uppermost,  and  to  their  full  depth,  and  in 
boxes  of  light  soil.  Placed  in  frames,  or  under  glass  of  some  kind,  both 
top  and  root  growth  will  commence  in  a  few  days,  and  if  planted  out 
on  good  ground  by  the  middle  of  April,  or  before  leaves  have  actually 
developed,  an  excellent  start  will  have  been  made.  Root  cuttings 
dibbled  out  soon  after  being  prepared  are  liable  to  be  preyed  upon  by 
slugs,  and  in  any  case  the  plants  are  not  so  forward  and  strong  as  those 
resulting  from  cuttings  already  growing  when  put  out. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Coleuses.— Young  plants  rooted  in  pots  or  pans  must  be  potted 
singly,  those  rooted  in  small  pots  should  be  placed  into  3-inch.  If  bushes 
are  required  pinch  the  plants  as  soon  as  they  commence  growing.  For 
many  forms  of  decoration  plants  with  single  stems  and  large  foliage  are 
very  useful.  Where  bushes  are  needed  early  four  or  five  cuttings  may 
be  inserted  in  each  pot,  and  be  allowed  to  grow  on  without  pinching, 
and  when  a  sufficient  stock  has  been  obtained  old  plants  may  be  thrown 
out ;  they  seldom  grow  freely,  and  are  surpassed  by  young  vigorous  plants. 
Balsams. — Directly  the  seed  leaves  have  been  developed  pot  the 
plants  singly.  Pot  them  down  to  the  seed  leaves,  and  when  they  have 
started  again  into  growth  place  them  on  a  shelf  where  the  temperature 
ranges  from  55°  to  60°  at  night.  If  grown  too  warm  they  soon  become 
tall  and  weakly,  failing  to  branch  freely. 
Heliotropes. — Plants  that  flowered  during  the  autumn  and  have 
been  well  cared  for  since  will  come  into  flower  quickly  if  placed  in  an 
intermediate  temperature.  YouDg  bushy  plants  that  have  been  kept  in 
3-inch  pots  may  be  placed  into  5-inch  pots  ;  in  a  temperature  of  55°  they 
will  commence  active  growth,  and  prove  useful  for  decoration. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. — The  best  of  those  that  flowered  during  the 
winter  are  showing  buds  freely  ;  these  will  come  into  bloom  in  a  few 
weeks  if  a  temperature  of  55°  can  be  given  them.  Young  stock  should 
not  be  introduced  into  beat  before  their  flower  spikes  are  visible,  for 
they  are  liable  to  Btart  into  soft  growth  and  then  fail  to  flower.  Plants 
that  have  been  cut  back  and  are  commencing  growth  may  have  the 
whole  of  the  old  soii  shaken  from  their  roots.  These  may  be  reduced, 
and  the  plants  replaced  into  the  same  or  smaller  pots.  Water  carefully 
until  they  have  commenced  r>  oting  and  growing  freely.  Cuttings  may 
be  inserted  in  quantity  for  autumn  and  winter  flowering.  If  inserted  in 
small  pots  and  kept  growing  they  will  be  useful  by  the  time  it  is 
necessary  to  turn  them  outside. 
IVXlgnonette. — For  pyramids  and  standards  to  flower  in  the  autumn 
seed  should  be  sown  of  Parson’s  White  or  Miles’  Hybrid  Spiral  in  the 
centre  of  small  pots.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  up  select  the  strongest 
for  standards  ;  three  or  four  may  be  left  in  the  pots  of  those  that  are 
required  for  pyramids.  Plants  that  have  been  in  a  cool  house  during 
the  winter  may  be  finally  thinned  if  they  are  too  crowded.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  carefully  bend  over  the  surface  of  the  pot  those  that  are  left.  If 
this  is  done  and  the  points  removed  they  will  break  strongly  from 
nearly  every  joint,  and  in  a  short  time  bushy  plants  a  few  inches  high 
with  large  Bpikes  of  bloom  will  be  the  result.  No  attempt  must  be  made 
to  force  these  plants,  they  enjoy  a  cool  airy  place  and  a  moisture-holding 
base.  Water  carefully,  do  not  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry,  or  the 
foliage  will  turn  yellow. 
Blbonlas. — If  cuttings  are  not  rooted  they  should  be  inserted  at 
once.  Those  that  are  rooted  should  be  placed  singly  into  Bmall  pots 
and  grown  on  for  a  time  in  heat.  When  a  few  inches  high  the  point  of 
the  plants  should  be  removed  to  induce  them  to  branch.  If  large  plants 
are  required  two  or  three  planta  may  be  grown  together.  For  this  pur¬ 
pose  we  invariably  cut  back  a  few  plants  and  grow  them  well.  For  5-inch 
pots  single  plants  rooted  at  the  present  time  are  the  best. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Barr  &  Sons,  12,  King  Street,  Covent  Garden.— Hardy  Perennials 
and  Alpines. 
J.  Cneal  &  Sons,  Crawley. — Dahlias. 
Wm.  Clibran  &  Son,  Altrincham. — Farm  Seeds. 
Fotheringham  &  King,  Dumfries. — Farm  Seeds. 
Hogg  &  Robertson,  Dublin. — Farm  Seeds. 
E.  P.  Krelage  &  Son,  Haarlem,  Holland. — Perennials. 
The  Surrey  Seed  Stores,  Red  Hill. — Agricultural  Seeds. 
