March  25,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
259 
A  fine  collection  of  Cyclamen,  containing  several  superb  varieties, 
was  shown  by  Mr.  R.  Sydenham,  also  a  beautifully  bloomed  specimen 
Dendrobium  nobile.  Mr.  A.  Cryer  staged  an  excellent  collection  of  a 
dozen  plants  of  Hippeastrums  raised  from  seed  of  his  own  saving.  The 
blooms  were  large,  and  of  varied  rich  colours.  A  certificate  of  merit 
was  accorded  them.  A  certificate  of  merit  was  also  awarded  to 
Mr.  Isaac  House  of  Westbury-on-Trym  for  a  collection  of  fine  and 
sweetly  scented  Violets,  said  to  be  of  Californian  origin.  Mr.  R.  Syden¬ 
ham  displayed  a  set  of  his  popular  “  Rustic  Table  Decorations.”  A  rich 
display  of  Orchids,  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  Cyclamen  in  the  adjoining 
glass  structures  materially  add  to  the  delectation  of  the  visitors. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Protecting  Wall  Trees. — The  cold  biting  east  winds  of  spring, 
which  frequently  follow  and  sometimes  accompany  bright  sunny  weather, 
are  in  some  circumstances  very  trying  to  fruit  trees  in  blossom.  The 
early-flowering  stone  fruit  trees  on  walls,  Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Necta¬ 
rines,  almost  invariably  need  some  protection  so  as  to  obviate  injury  to 
the  reproductive  organs  of  the  flowers  when  the  latter  are  fully  open. 
The  blossoms  are  then  most  susceptible  to  untoward  influences,  such  as 
storms  of  rain  and  wind,  which  heat  and  cut  them  about,  saturating  the 
delicate  parts  with  moisture. 
A  severe  frost  then  following  destroys  their  functions,  rendering  the 
setting  of  fruit  impossible.  The  object  of  protecting  is  to  avoid  such 
disasters  when  bad  weather  is  prevalent  by  timely  covering  the  trees 
while  still  dry,  endeavouring  to  keep  them  so  during  the  continuance  of 
unfavourable  periods.  Frosts  or  low  temperatures  have  but  little  effect 
when  the  flowers  are  free  from  moisture. 
Protecting  material  is  occasionally  employed  with  advantage  on  very 
sunny  walls  to  retard  the  opening  of  the  blossom,  thereby  causing  the 
flowering  period  to  be  later,  and  probably  at  a  more  favourable  time. 
In  such  cases  the  trees  are  screened  from  the  warm  sunshine  and  fully 
exposed  when  dull  and  cold.  As  soon,  however,  as  the  flowers  open 
protection  from  wet  and  frost  must,  be  resorted  to,  with  plenty  of  sun 
and  light  afforded  at  other  times. 
Moveable  Protection — The  advantages  of  protecting  material  which 
can  be  drawn  off  or  on  one  side  are  obvious.  Copings  projecting  18  inches 
from  the  wall  may  be  affixed  temporarily  upon  which  to  hang  blinds  or 
curtains  of  tiffany,  canvas,  or  frigi  domo.  The  front  part  of  coping 
should  carry  an  iron  rod  on  which  rings  can  be  placed,  these  being 
attached  to  the  protecting  material.  By  this  means  the  blinds  are 
readily  drawn  over  the  trees  when  necessary,  and  as  easily  drawn  off. 
Some  provision  must  be  made  at  the  base  for  securing  the  blinds  tightly. 
Similar  iron  rods  to  the  others  fixed  to  uprights  about  a  foot  from  the 
ground  are  suitable.  The  material  ought  not  to  touch  the  trees,  so  that 
air  can  circulate  about  them  freely. 
Fixed  Protection. — When  protecting  material  is  not  daily  removed, 
but  remains  over  the  trees  continuously  during  the  time  they  need  such 
aid,  it  is  termed  fixed,  or  in  a  sense  permanent.  The  character,  however, 
of  the  material  should  be  such  that  while  affording  protection  it  ought 
not  to  exclude  light  and  air.  This  cannot  be  properly  done  by  close- 
textured  materials,  but  it  m'ay  be  effected  by  fish  netting  two  or  three 
times  doubled  laid  over  the  trees.  Such  protection  can  remain  until  all 
danger  from  frost  and  cold  winds  is  past. 
Crafting  Fruit  Trees. — It  will  soon  be  necessary  to  carry  out 
grafting  operations  where  such  is  proposed  to  be  done.  Trees  having 
large  thick  branches  which  it  is  intended  to  attach  grafts  to  should  have 
the  limbs  prepared  by  heading  them  down  in  readiness  for  working 
when  the  bark  in  the  stocks  lifts  freely,  showing  that  the  sap  is  in 
motion. 
Crown  or  Hind  Grafting — Preparation  of  Stock*. — This  is  the  best 
method  for  attaching  grafts  to  large  branches.  Those  branches  headed 
down  early  need  to  be  freshly  cut  over  immediately  before  commencing 
grafting.  When  the  scions  are  ready' for  insertion  cut  a  slit  through  the 
bark  of  stock  longitudinally  the  same  length  as  the  prepared  part  of 
scion.  Choose  a  smooth  portion  of  bark  for  the  incision. 
Preparation  of  Scions. — Scions  must  be  perfectly  dormant.  The 
best  portions  for  forming  grafts  are  obtained  from  the  central  parts  of 
young  shoots  well  ripened.  The  scions,  when  prepared,  should  be  about 
6  inches  in  length,  and  have  three  good  buds  on  the  parts  left  above  the 
inserted  portion.  The  lower  part  of  scion  is  cut  slantingly,  making  the 
cut  quite  clean  and  evenly.  In  order  to  facilitate  the  insertion  of  the 
scion  firmly  on  the  stock  remove  a  small  portion  of  wood  at  the  top  of 
the  slanting  cut,  thus  forming  a  shoulder  which  will  rest  on  the  stock, 
holding  the  graft  exactly  in  position. 
Uniting  Stocks  and  Scions. — Carefully  lift  the  bark  of  stocks  with  a 
smooth  wedge-shaped  instrument.  This  will  admit  the  scions.  Push 
each  scion  down  until  the  shoulder  portion  rests  on  stock.  It  is  impor¬ 
tant  that  the  inner  bark  or  alburnous  tissue  of  both  stock  and  scion 
exactly  meet,  on  one  side  at  least,  but  better  if  on  both.  The  inner  bark 
is  the  actively  dividing  tissue  termed  the  cambium,  where  new  growth 
is  originated  by  cells  receiving  the  sap  on  its  returning  course  from  the 
leaves.  Having  fixed  the  scions  on  tbe  above  principle,  proceed  to  secure 
them  permanently  safe  by  tying  matting  securely  round  them .  Finish 
by  covering  the  grafts,  also  top  of  stock,  with  clay  or  grafting  wax. 
This  is  important  to  exclude  air,  and  maintain  moisture  for  assisting  the 
complete  union  of  the  parts. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.— Earliest  Houses. — Careful  attention 
to  ventilation  is  necessary  in  cold  sharp  weather,  as  cold  currents  cripple 
the  foliage  and  give  a  check  to  the  fruit,  often  causing  it  to  fall,  there¬ 
fore  admit  a  little  air  early,  and  allow  the  temperature  to  rise  somewhat 
higher  than  would  ordinarily  be  permitted  rather  than  give  air  to  keep 
it  down  and  in  doing  so  cause  an  inrush  of  cold  air.  The  advance  must 
be  from  sun  heat,  turning  off  the  artificial  heat  and  closing  early. 
Stoning  will  soon  be  completed  in  the  niost  forward  varieties,  when  the 
final  thinning  must  be  effected,  and  the  border  may  be  mulched  with 
partially  decayed  manure  1  to  2  inches  thick,  and  the  night  temperature 
may  be  raised  to  65°  to  70°  in  mild  weather,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artifici¬ 
ally,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat.  This  will  bring  the  fruit 
rapidly  forward  and  insure  its  swelling  to  a  good  size,  but  it  will  not 
have  the  colour  and  quality  of  that  given  more  time.  Tie-in  the  shoots 
as  they  advance,  regulating  them  so  as  not  to  be  too  crowded,  as  this 
lets  more  light  to  tbe  fruit  for  colouring,  and  the  wood  becomes  more 
solidified  and  better  ripened  for  another  year.  Outside  borders  will 
only  need  sufficient  protection  in  the  way  of  a  mulch  against  frost  and 
snow,  and  inside  borders  must  have  due  supplies  of  water  or  liquid 
manure.  When  close  pinching  of  the  laterals  has  to  be  practised  to  keep 
the  growths  in  order  there  is  danger  of  starting  the  base  buds,  and 
extension  only  increases  the  vigour,  frequently  resulting  in  the  principal 
buds  pushing  laterals  instead  of  forming  fruit  buds.  Such  trees  must 
be  marked  for  lifting  at  the  proper  time,  and  when  a  shoot  becomes  so 
gross  as  to  push  the  whole  of  the  buds  it  is  best  to  cut  such  away 
altogether,  as  they  have  large  sap -vessels,  and  may  fall  a  prey  to  gum, 
interfering  with  the  proper  training  of  the  trees. 
Vines.  — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — The  canes  started  last  November, 
that  were  duly  attended  to  in  regard  to  heat,  moisture,  and  other 
cultural  requirements,  also  furnished  with  supplies  of  liquid  manure 
and  surface  dressings  of  rich  compost,  have  the  Grapes  swelled  to  a  good 
size,  and  these  are  changing  colour.  The  supplies  of  liquid  manure 
should  be  lessened  gradually,  so  as  not  to  give  a  check,  and  the 
atmospheric  moisture  must  be  reduced,  yet  do  not  withhold  it  entirely  ; 
but  allow  a  gentle  circulation  of  air  constantly,  and  damp  the  house  in 
the  morning  and  afternoon,  as  moisture  is  essential  to  the  finishing  of 
the  Grapes,  and  does  not  inimically  affect  early  crops.  Maintain  the 
temperature  at  60°  to  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and 
between  75°  and  85°  through  the  day  from  sun  heat,  ventilating  freely 
in  fine  weather. 
Early  Houses. — In  the  house  started  early  in  December  the  Grapes 
are  rapidly  advancing  towards  the  colouring  stage,  and  should  be 
afforded  a  thorough  supply  of  tepid  liquid  manure,  mulching  with  a 
little  partially  decayed  rather  lumpy  material,  such  as  sweetened  horse 
droppings,  or  stable  manure,  with  the  strawy  portion  shaken  out, 
answers  well  after  it  has  been  properly  sweetened.  With  the  border  in 
a  proper  state  of  moisture  and  the  stimulus  given  the  roots,  little,  if  any, 
further  moisture  will  be  needed  by  the  border  until  the  Grapes  are  cat ; 
but  there  mast  not  bfe  any  deficiency,  as  it  is  important  that  the  foliage 
be  kept  healthy.  Continue  damping  the  house  at  closing  time  until  the 
Grapes  are  well  advanced  in  colouring,  after  which  reduce  the  moisture 
gradually,  but  provide  a  circulation  of  warm  air  by  day  and  night.  This 
is  particularly  necessary  with  Madresfield  Court  and  other  Grapes  liable 
to  crack,  and  where  these  are  grown  it  may  be  wise  to  dispense  with  the 
dampings,  covering  the  border  with  rather  rough  dry  material,  excluding 
water  from  the  house  after  the  Grapes  show  colour,  but  with  a  little 
ventilation  constantly,  and  this  increased  early  in  the  day,  the  border 
not  being  too  wet,  this  very  fine  early  Grape  does  not  show  much 
disposition  to  cracking  in  the  berries. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year.  —  When  these  come  into  flower 
they  will  need  plenty  of  warm,  rather  dry  air,  with  a  temperature  of 
65°  to  70°  at  night  for  Black  Hamburghs  and  similar  sorts,  and  70°  to 
75°  for  Muscats.  All  shy  setting  varieties  must  have  their  flowers  gently 
rubbed  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush  to  rid  the  stigmas  of  the  glutinous 
substance  about  the  time  the  blossom  is  fully  expanded,  choosing  a 
warm  part  of  the  day  after  the  house  has  been  freely  ventilated . 
Varieties  deficient  in  pollen  may  be  supplied  from  that  affording  it 
freely.  On  no  account  allow  the  thinning  to  remain  a  day  longer  than 
is  necessary  to  ascertain  the  best  set  bunches.  Free-setting  varieties, 
such  as  Black  Hamburgh,  may  be  thinned  as  soon  as  the  berries  are 
formed,  but  Muscats  and  other  shy  setters  ought  not  to  be  thinned  until 
the  proDerly  fertilised  berries  are  taking  the  lead.  No  rule  can  be  laid 
down  for  thinning,  as  the  berries  vary  in  size  in  different  varieties,  and 
even  of  Vines  of  the  same  variety.  Healthy,  strong  Vines  swell  much 
finer  brrries  than  those  not  so  vigorous,  but  space  must  be  left  that 
each  berry  will  have  room  to  swell  without  being  wedged  or  crushed, 
yet  the  berries  must  be  close  enough  to  preserve  the  form  of  the  bunch 
when  placed  upon  the  dish.  When  the  Grapes  have  been  thinned  and 
are  fairly  swelling  (supply  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state,’  and  mulch 
with  about  an  inch  depth  of  rather  fresh,  but  sweetened,  lumpy  manure, 
keeping  it  damp  by  sprinkling  daily,  especially  at  closing  time.  Admit 
air  early  and  liberally  as  the  heat  increases,  seeking  to  secure  short- 
jointed  wood  and  thick  leathery  foliage.  Close  early,  with  plenty  of 
atmospheric  moisture,  raising  the  heat  from  the  sun  to  85°  to  90°,  and 
allow  the  night  temperature  to  fall  to  between  G0°  and  (35°. 
