April  1,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
279 
The  beds  were  filled  with  Hyacinths  and  Tulips,  and  the  display  reflected 
great  credit  upon  the  designer,  Mr.  J.  B.  Dyer,  Corporation  head 
gardener. 
The  chief  prizewinners  were  Miss  LaverB  (gardener,  Mr.  G.  Lee),  who 
showed  some  grand  Orchids,  including  Lycaste  Skinneri  alba  and  some 
magnificent  specimen  Ccelogynes  and  Dendrobiums ;  Dr.  W.  Ford 
Edgelow  (gardener,  Mr.  C.  R.  Prowse),  who  was  first  in  the  miscellaneous 
group  in  form  of  circle  :  Captain  W.  Fane  Tucker  (gardener,  Mr.  J. 
Sloman),  with  some  well  grown  Narcissi  and  Hyacinths  ;  and  Mr.  P.  W. 
Bushby  (gardener,  Mr.  F.  Peacock),  who  won  the  first  prize  in  the  table 
decorations  with  an  extremely  light  and  effective  exhibit  ;  and  Mr. 
J.  W.  Kimber  (gardener,  Mr.  F.  C.  Ferris).  The  Judges  were  Mr.  W. 
Swan  of  Bystock,  Exmouth ;  Mr.  W.  Rowland  of  Parker’s  Well  House, 
Exeter ;  and  Mr.  T.  Pender  of  the  South  Devon  Fruit  Farm,  Mr.  F.  C. 
Smale  being  the  Hon.  Secretary. 
ROYAL  BOTANIC.— Mabch  31st. 
The  spring  show  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Society  was  held  in  Regent’s 
Park  on  the  above  date.  As  a  competitive  exhibition  it  was  very  poor, 
for  so  far  as  we  could  see  there  was  no  competition  in  any  class,  save  the 
■one  for  twelve  pots  of  Cyclamens.  Miscellaneous  exhibits  from  nursery¬ 
men,  however,  made  a  bright  display,  and  were  as  a  rule  of  high  quality. 
Mr.  J.  G.  Mowbray,  gardener  to  Major  the  Hon.  H.  C.  Legge, 
Fulmer,  Slough,  was  apparently  the  only  exhibitor  in  the  class  for  six 
Chinese  Primulas,  receiving  the  premier  prize  for  splendidly  grown 
specimens.  Mr.  W.  Rumsey,  Waltham  Cross,  was  placed  first  for  six 
Roses  in  pots  with  fairly  well-flowered  plants.  For  twelve  Cyclamens 
the  St.  George’s  Nursery  Co.,  Han  well,  secured  the  chief  award.  The 
plants  were  admirably  grown,  and  carrying  fine  flowers  and  good 
foliage.  Messrs.  Pestridge,  Brentford,  were  a  fair  second. 
The  Hyacinths  staged  by  Messrs.  Morle  &  Co.,  Finchley  Road,  in  the 
class  for  twelve,  distinct,  and  for  which  the  first  prize  was  awarded, 
were  barely  of  average  merit.  For  twelve  Amaryllis  Mr.  H.  Perkins, 
gardener  to  the  Hon.  W.  F.  D.  Smith,  Henley,  was  first. 
Though  competitive  exhibits  were  very  meagre,  collections  staged 
by  the  various  nurserymen  were  numerous  and  of  high  quality.  Messrs. 
Barr  &  Son,  Covent  Garden,  staged  Narcissi  from  their  Ditton  Nurseries. 
Amongst  others  were  noted  Duchess  of  Westminster,  bicolor  Victoria, 
Barri  conspicuus,  Emperor,  and  others.  The  same  firm  sent  Tulips, 
Fritillarias,  Primulas,,  and  Muscaris.  Mr.  R.  Scott,  gardener  to 
C.  Newington,  Esq ,  The  Holme,  Regent’s  Park,  arranged  handsome 
flowering  and  foliage  plants  that  made  a  bright  display. 
The  St.  George’s  Nursery  Co.,  Han  well,  exhibited  a  large  number  of 
Cyclamens,  as  did  Mr.  Pestridge,  Brentford.  Splendid  Camellias  in 
pots  came  from  Messrs.  Wm.  Paul  &  Son,  Waltham  Cross.  Such 
varieties  as  The  Duchess,  alba  plena,  Cup  of  Beauty,  Duchess  of  Teck, 
and  Beauty  of  Waltham  were  very  conspicuous.  Azaleas  formed  the 
major  portion  of  the  exhibit  from  Messrs.  J.  Peed  &  Sons,  Norwood, 
though  Boronias,  Ferns,  Prunus,  Palms,  and  others  were  included. 
Messrs.  J.  Laing  &  Sons,  Forest  Hill,  exhibited  miscellaneous  plants 
of  fine  quality.  There  were  Crimson  Rambler  Roses,  Clivias,  Anthu- 
riums,  Crotons,  Ferns,  Caladiums,  and  various  Orchids,  with  some  plants 
of  the  yellow  Calla  Pentlandi.  Magnolias,  Clivias,  Crimson  Rambler 
Roses,  Boronias,  Acacias,  and  Ericas,  with  Ferns,  came  from  Messrs. 
W.  Cutbush  &  Son,  Highgate.  Superb  Amaryllis  were  sent  by  Messrs. 
J.  Veitch  &  Sons,  Ltd.,  Chelsea,  also  a  few  Orchids  and  a  collection  of 
Daffodils  and  blue  Primroses.  The  Emperor,  Empress,  Glory  of  Leyden, 
and  Barri  conspicuus,  Narcissi  in  this  group  were  very  rich  in  colour, 
as  were  the  several  others  not  noted.  Mr.  G.  Mount  of  Canterbury  staged 
cut  Roses  in  his  customary  excellent  style,  while  Mr.  W.  Rumsey, 
Waltham  Cross,  sent  plants  in  pots. 
Paris  Green  for  the  Cabbage  Caterpillar.  —  An  agri¬ 
cultural  paper  of  high  character  states  that  we  may  freely  use  Paris 
green  on  the  Cabbage  in  order  to  destroy  the  Cabbage  caterpillar. 
It  states  that  the  ordinary  solutions  of  Paris  green  do  not  contain 
enough  poison  to  injure  anyone  ;  but  the  danger  would  be  that  the 
solution  would  sometimes  be  made  much  stronger  than  was  desirable, 
and  there  can  be  no  doubt  there  would  be  many  fatal  cases  if  Paris 
green  should  become  general  in  this  case.  The  use  of  Paris  green 
should  be  strongly  objected  to  in  the  case  of  any  vegetable,  like 
the  Cabbage,  which  retains  within  its  closed  leaves  whatever  may 
be  cast  upon  it.  In  cases  where  the  poison  can  be  easily  washed  off 
by  the  rains,  there  would  not  be  the  same  objection. — (“  Meehan’s 
Monthly.”) 
Iris  japonica  — This  beautiful  Iris,  says  a  writer  in  an  American 
contemporary,  which  has  been  in  cultivation  nearly  a  century,  ought 
to  be  in  every  collection  of  cool  greenhouse  plants.  It  belongs  to  the 
rhizomatous  section  of  the  genus,  and  is  perhaps  better  known  as 
I.  fimbriata.  The  bright  green  sword-shaped  leaves  are  from  1  foot  to 
18  inches  in  length,  gradually  tapering  to  a  point,  and  are  arranged  in 
fan-like  tufts,  making  an  elegant  plant  even  when  not  in  bloom.  The 
pale  lilac  or  bluish  flowers  are  3  inches  in  diameter,  and  beautifully 
fringed.  The  retlexed  falls  are  a  rich  orange-yellow  at  the  throat.  The 
individual  flowers  are  fugitive,  but  they  succeed  each  other  until  each 
spathe  has  produced  three  or  four.  The  plant  blooms  better  when 
allowed  to  become  pot-bound.  My  experience  has  been  that  it  is  best 
hot  to  attempt  to  divide  the  roots  until  this  is  absolutely  necessary,  as 
the  plant  will  not  blossom  till  the  second  season  after  division. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Freesias. 
These  delightful  winter  and  spring-flowering  bulbous  plants  are 
not  so  extensively  grown  as  they  deserve  to  be.  They  are  of  easy 
culture,  and  the  deliciously  scented  flowers  are  produced  with  great 
freedom  under  good  cultivation.  A  compost  of  two  parts  loam,  one  of 
leaf  mould,  with  a  small  quantity  of  silver  sand,  and  half  a  part  of 
decayed  manure,  will  be  found  suitable  for  these  plants. 
We  use  4-inch  pots,  well  drained  and  clean,  with  a  layer  of  moss 
placed  over  the  drainage  to  keep  it  clear.  Six  bulbs  are  usually  inserted 
in  each  pot  about  September,  and  plunged  in  cold  frames  up  to  the  rims 
of  the  pots.  When  starting  into  growth  they  may  be  removed  and 
placed  in  a  position  near  the  glass.  A  few  pots  at  a  time  placed  in  a 
gentle  heat  of  45°  to  50°  at  short  intervals  produce  a  succession  of 
flowers  from  Christmas  until  March,  or  even  later. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  tie  they  should  have  a  thin 
stake  put  to  each  growth.  Some  good  artificial  or  weak  liquid  manure 
may  be  given  at  intervals  of  about  a  week,  which  will  prove  beneficial 
to  the  flowers,  and  an  occasional  watering  of  clear  soot  water  may  also  be 
given  to  impart  colour  to  the  foliage. 
Freesias  are  less  subject  to  insects  than  most  plants,  although  red 
spider,  thrips,  and  green  fly  will  sometimes  attack  them.  These  trouble¬ 
some  pests  may  be  eradicated  by  syringing  with  the  XL  All  liquid 
insecticide,  mixed  according  to  the  directions  given.  These  plants  are 
admirably  adapted  for  either  house,  table,  or  conservatory  decoration, 
producing  a  pretty  effect  by  their  arching  flower  spikes,  and  the 
individual  flowers  are  also  useful  for  buttonholes,  sprays,  and  bouquets, 
as  they  wire  well,  and  are  the  right  colour  for  that  purpose. 
After  flowering  they  may  be  placed  clbsely  together  in  cold  frames, 
and  watered  regularly  until  the  foliage  shows  signs  of  maturation, 
when  water  should  be  gradually  withheld  until  the  soil  becomes  quite 
dry  ;  thev  should  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun,  so  as  to  well  ripen  the 
bulbs. — J.  F.  D. 
Potting  Freesias. 
In  your  issue  of  the  25th  ult.,  in  “  The  Young  Gardeners’  Domain,” 
the  writer  on  Freesias  says,  in  potting  the  bulbs,  twenty  should  be 
placed  in  a  32-pot  to  get  a  mass  of  foliage  and  flowers.  I  should  think 
he  would  get  too  much  of  a  mass.  We  find  that  ten  to  twelve  are 
sufficient  for  that  size  of  pot. — Worplesdon. 
Fuchsias. 
Except  for  the  production  of  cuttings  I  do  not  advise  keeping  old 
plants  of  Fuchsias.  Specimens  4  feet  in  height  and  2  feet  in  diameter 
can  be  obtained  in  one  season  if  the  proper  treatment  be  afforded  them. 
The  cuttings  should  be  taken  when  about  2J  inches  long  in  the  month  of 
February  from  old  plants  previously  started  in  heat.  Placed  in  small 
pots  and  plunged  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat  with  an  atmosphere  freely 
charged  with  moisture  the  cuttings  will  root  in  about  a  fortnight.  When 
rooted,  and  before  the  roots  become  matted  together,  pot  singly  in  3-inch 
pots,  using  a  mixture  of  three  parts  loam,  two  parts  leaf  soil,  and  one 
part  sand,  thoroughly  well  mixed,  returning  them  to  the  plunging 
material  for  a  few  days.  When  the  roots  have  taken  hold  of  the  fresh 
soil  remove  the  plants  to  a  position  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass  in  the  same 
structure,  where  they  will  have  plenty  of  light  and  are  within  easy  reach 
of  the  syringe.  Do  not  top  the  leader,  for  if  given  room  enough  plenty 
of  shoots  will  be  produced  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves  to  furnish  the 
plant.  The  great  secret  is  to  keep  the  plants  moving  until  the  required 
dimensions  are  obtained.  Heat  and  moisture  with  ample  space  are 
essential  to  the  well-doing  of  the  Fuchsia  during  the  growing  season. 
About  the  end  of  July  the  plants  should  have  grown  to  their  fullest 
extent  (being  probably  in  12-inch  pots),  when  they  should  have  more 
air.  About  the  end  of  August  they  can  be  safely  removed  to  a  position 
out  of  doors  on  a  bed  of  coal  ashes,  where  they  will  receive  the  full 
benefit  of  the  sun  in  order  to  ripen  the  wood.  During  their  brief  stay 
out  of  doors  no  pains  must  be  spared  in  keeping  the  plants  well  supplied 
with  water  both  at  the  root  and  also  overhead  with  the  syringe,  giving 
the  plants  an  occasional  twist  round  to  insure  the  thorough  ripening  of 
the  wood  on  all  sides,  and  to  prevent  their  rooting  into  the  ashes  on 
which  they  are  placed.  When  the  wood  is  of  a  light  brown  tint 
transfer  the  plants  to  an  airy  structure,  and  continue  syringing  until 
the  flower  buds  appear,  when  it  should  be  discontinued.  The  application 
of  weak  liquid  manure  will  assist  the  plants  after  they  have  become 
root-bound.  Fuchsias  should  not  be  tied  more  than  is  absolutely 
necessary,  otherwise  their  pendent  and  graceful  habit  cannot  be 
appreciated. — Youngster. 
Salvias. 
For  conservatories  and  greenhouses  Salvias  form  an  excellent 
succession  to  Chrysanthemums,  and  by  growing  three  or  four  varieties 
Salvias  can  be  had  in  flower  from  early  in  December  till  the  middle  of 
April.  Give  the  plants  the  same  care  as  we  give  to  Chrysanthemums, 
and  it  will  be  a  cause  of  astonishment  to  all  who  see  them  why  such 
plants  are  not  more  grown,  and  why  we  do  not  treat  them  better  during 
the  summer  than  planting  them  out  in  some  remote  corner  and  letting 
them  grow  as  best  they  can  ;  many  following  this  practice,  and  like 
most  neglected  plants,  the  return  is  small.  Could  we  alwayB  bear  in 
mind  that  what  is  worth  doing  is  worth  doing  well,  many  partial  failures 
would  be  unknown. 
The  four  most  useful  Salvias  are  S.  gesneraeflora,  S.  Heeri,  S.  splendens, 
and  its  dwarfer  variety  S,  Bruanti,  which  is  a  lovely  variety,  brilliant  in 
