April  1,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
281 
Melons.  —  Stout  leathery  leaves,  short-jointed  growths,  usually 
produce  heavy  high-flavoured  fruit  ;  thin  foliage  and  long-jointed  wood 
produce  the  exact  opposite,  solidification  being  essential  to  fertility.  No 
effort  should  be  spared  to  get  fruit  Bet  on  the  first  laterals.  When  in 
flower  and  during  the  setting  period  water  should  only  be  given  to 
prevent  flagging,  and  the  atmosphere  must  be  kept  dryer,  with  an 
increase  of  temperature  of  about  5°,  a  circulation  of  warm  air  conducing 
to  a  good  set,  and  if  necessary  a  little  air  should  be  admitted  at  night 
to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  flowers.  Fertilise  the 
blossoms  every  day,  pinching  each  growth  at  the  same  time  one  joint 
beyond  the  fruit.  When  the  fruits  are  set  and  about  the  size  of  a 
hen's  egg  give  a  thorough  watering  with  tepid  liquid  manure,  having 
the  soil  for  earthing  the  roots  warmed,  for  if  the  roots  are  chilled  by 
cold  water  or  soil  the  fruits  turn  yellow  instead  of  swelling.  In  a  day 
or  two  after  watering  top-dress  with  rich,  turfy,  rather  strong  loam, 
pressing  it  down  somewhat  firmly,  and  again  supply  water.  Stop  the 
subsequent  growths  to  one  or  two  leaves,  and  avoid  overcrowding  the 
foliage  by  removing  superfluous  growths.  The  bottom  heat  should  be 
kept  steady  at  80°  to  85°,  this  assists  the  swelling  of  the  fruits,  and 
speedy  growth  with  early  ripening  is  a  great  point  in  growing  the  first 
crop  of  Melons.  The  night  temperature  may  stand  at  65°  to  70°,  70° 
to  75°  by  day  from  artificial  means,  ventilating  from  that  point,  but 
allowing  an  advance  to  85°  or  90°,  closing  at  85°  sufficiently  early  to  rise 
to  90°  or  100°. 
Syringe  moderately  about  3  p.m.  on  bright  and  warm  afternoons,  or 
soon  after  midday  when  the  air  is  sharp.  Damp  the  floor  in  the 
morning,  and  keep  the  evaporation  troughs  charged  with  liquid 
manure,  or  failing  these  sprinkle  the  floor  with  stable  drainings  diluted 
with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water,  unless  sufficiently  diluted  by  washings 
running  into  the  tank.  Liquid  manure  will  be  needed  by  plants  in 
restricted  borders  ;  and  a  mulching  of  rather  lumpy  and  sweet  manure 
encourages  roots,  and  affords  support.  Water,  liquid  manure,  and 
mulching  must  always  be  applied  equal  to  or  in  advance  of  the  tempera¬ 
ture  of  the  house. 
Later  plants  will  need  the  growths  trained  regularly,  removing  the 
laterals  on  the  stem  to  the  trellis,  then  rubbing  off  every  alternate  one 
directly  they  are  perceived,  leaving  the  rest  on  the  right  and  left  of  the 
main  stem,  pinching  the  point  out  of  the  primary  stem  after  it  has 
extended  two-thirds  of  the  required  distance.  Increase  the  supply  of 
water  as  the  days  lengthen,  but  avoid  making  the  soil  too  wet,  as  that 
hinders  root  action,  and  secure  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by 
damping  in  the  morning  and  lightly  syringing  on  tine  afternoons. 
Sow  seeds  to  raise  plants  for  occupying  small  houses  or  pits  as  they 
become  cleared  of  bedding  plants,  keeping  the  plants  sturdy  by  growing 
near  the  glass,  and  not  allowing  them  to  become  very  much  root-bound. 
In  pits  and  frames  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  should  be  maintained  that  are 
growing  freely  ;  newly  made  beds  will  have  a  bottom  heat  of  90°,  which 
is  safe  for  planting  out,  and  as  the  heat  declines  it  can  be  increased  by 
renewing  the  linings,  employing  thick  night  coverings  over  the  lights. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Azaleas. — As  these  go  out  of  flower  pick  off  the  seed  pods,  and 
place  the  plants  where  they  can  be  assisted  by  gentle  heat  and  moisture 
to  make  their  growth.  Those  which  flowered  early  and  have  started  into 
growth  may  be  repotted  if  they  need  it.  We  have  found  loam  and  leaf 
mould  in  equal  proportions  with  the  addition  of  coarse  sand  as  good  as 
peat  for  growing  Azaleas.  The  soil  should  be  pressed  firmly,  so  that 
water  will  not  pass  through  the  new  and  leave  the  old  balls  of  soil  dry. 
Plants  required  for  late  flowering  should,  if  practicable,  be  placed  in  a 
house  with  a  north  aspect.  Careful  watering  is  essential,  and  the 
syringe  may  also  be  used  freely  to  keep  thrips  in  check  ;  if  any  are  seen 
the  best  method  of  destroying  them  is  a  thorough  application  of  weak 
tobacco  water. 
Erica  hyemalis. — If  the  plants  are  not  repotted  the  work  Bhould 
be  done  at  once.  Do  not  give  them  a  large  shift,  and  use  peat  and  sand 
as  a  compost.  In  potting  do  not  disturb  the  roots  further  than  is  neces¬ 
sary  in  the  removal  of  the  drainage.  If  the  new  soil  is  pressed  firmly 
the  roots  will  soon  take  possession  of  it.  Where  convenient  place  the 
plants  in  a  frame,  where  they  can  stand  on  a  base  of  ashes  and  be  safe 
from  frost.  The  plants  may  be  syringed  early  on  fine  afternoons  and 
the  frame  closed. 
Camellias. — Those  which  have  flowered  may  be  kept  close  and 
warm  to  promote  free  growth.  They  enjoy  much  water  at  the  roots,  and 
the  syringe  should  be  used  freely.  While  growing  these  plants  are 
benefited  by  shade,  which  should  be  gradually  removed,  so  that  they  can 
be  fully  exposed  by  the  time  the  foliage  is  developed.  This  is  necessary 
to  ripen  the  wood  and  the  production  of  buds.  Plants  that  need 
repotting  will  grow  freely  in  good  fibry  loam,  with  one-seventh  of  cow 
manure  and  sand.  Those  in  large  pots  and  tubs  may  be  top-dressed 
with  rich  material,  while  those  planted  out  if  they  are  weakly  may  be 
supplied  with  stimulants. 
•  Greenhouse  Rhododendrons.  —  These  may  be  kept  with 
Camellias  during  the  period  of  growth,  and  then  fully  exposed  to  the 
sun.  The  way  in  which  they  flower  another  year  entirely  depends 
upon  the  amount  of  light  and  sunshine  they  receive  during  the  growing 
season.  Any  plants  that  need  larger  pots  should  be  afforded  them  when 
flowering  ceases.  R.  Gibsoni  and  Princess  Royal  are  excellent  for 
planting  out  to  cover  a  wall,  and  when  established  they  flower  profusely. 
The  latter  has  been  furnishing  flowers  since  last  October.  For  shallow 
glasses  and  table  decoration  the  flowers  are  invaluable.  The  plants  grow 
well  in  peat  and  sand. 
Daphne  lndlca. — These  plants  are  frequently  destroyed  by  trying 
to  push  them  forward  in  a  close  atmosphere.  After  they  have  flowered 
place  them  in  frames  where  they  will  enjoy  a  cool  base  and  plenty  of 
air.  Apply  water  carefully,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  become  dry. 
Epacrlses. — Cut  back  all  that  have  done  flowering,  and  keep  them 
slightly  closer  until  they  break  into  growth,  when  they  may  be  repotted 
if  they  need  it.  Careful  watering  for  some  time  is  necessary  after 
repotting  until  the  plants  are  rooting  freely  in  the  new  soil.  Those 
that  were  potted  some  time  ago  and  now  growing  freely  should  have 
plenty  of  air,  so  that  a  firm  but  sturdy  growth  will  be  made. 
LARGE  HIVES. 
I  agree  with  “  G.  H.”  (page  240)  when  he  states  “  that  large 
hives  need  less  attention  as  to  feeding,”  but  he  does  not  say  why 
this  is  so.  It  is,  however,  a  fact  well  known  to  the  majority  of 
bee-keepers  who  have  studied  the  question  that  bees  will  not  store 
a  surplus  in  supers  until  the  brood  nest  or  body  of  the  hive  is  filled 
with  bees,  brood,  and  honey.  If  the  hive  is  larger  than  ia  necessary 
by  the  time  this  takes  place  the  honey  flow  will  be  nearly  if  not 
quite  over,  and  little  surplus  will  be  stored  in  supers.  This  may 
be  quite  satisfactory  from  the  bees’  point  of  view,  but  is  not  to 
be  recommended  to  bee-keepers  who  are  anxious  to  make  a  profit 
and  obtain  a  superior  sample  of  honey  from  their  bees. 
It  must  have  been  a  hive  similar  to  the  above  that  “  G.  H.”  had 
in  mind  when  he  stated  in  a  previous  issue  that  “  if  we  want  to 
take  as  much  surplus  as  250  lbs.  and  leave  100  lbs.  for  stores  we 
must  go  in  for  larger  hives.”  I  fail  to  see  where  the  advantage  to 
the  bee-keeper  comes  in,  except  it  is  in  the  saving  of  a  little  labour 
in  feeding  the  bees  for  winter  after  the  honey  flow  is  over.  This 
is  really  such  a  simple  operation  with  a  rapid  feeder  that  it  is  not 
worth  taking  into  consideration. 
Our  seasons  are  too  short  and  the  weather  too  precarious  for 
bee-keepers  to  depend  on  extra-sized  hives  if  their  only  recom¬ 
mendation  is  that  of  holding  a  large  amount  of  stores  in  the  brood 
nest.  I  am  not  prejudiced  in  favour  or  against  any  frame  or  hive, 
knowing  full  well  that  it  is  quite  immaterial  to  one  who  understands 
their  management,  for  in  the  latter  word  lies  the  whole  secret  of 
successful  bee-keeping.  Practical  experience  has  taught  me  that  a 
medium  sized  hive  in  this  uncertain  climate  (taking  one  season  with 
the  other)  is  better  than  large  unwieldy  hives. 
At  the  present  moment  I  have  some  large  hives  stocked  with 
bees  that  would  probably  gladden  the  heart  of  “  G.  H.”  They 
were  not  fed  last  autumn,  or  if  they  were  only  a  small  quantity  of 
syrup  was  given  to  each,  as  they  had  plenty  of  natural  stores,  and 
are  now  in  good  condition,  being  as  good  as  any  in  my  apiary. 
These  stocks  are  always  worked  for  sections,  and  so  are  some  of 
my  hives  holding  ten  frames,  standing  side  by  side.  The  latter 
for  this  purpose  have  never  any  extra  bees  given  to  them,  as  they 
are  snpered  when  they  require  it,  and  the  crates  of  sections  are 
placed  one  above  the  other.  Treated  in  this  manner  I  have 
invariably  found  them  to  give  better  results  than  the  extra  large 
hives.  It  is  honey  in  supers,  not  in  the  brood  chamber,  that  the 
majority  of  bee-keepers  require. 
Whether  the  hives  be  large,  small,  or  medium-sized,  a  bee-keeper 
is  wise  to  keep  to  the  size  that  answers  best  in  his  district.  Frames, 
too,  should  always  be  of  the  same  dimensions,  whether  large  or 
small,  throughout  the  apiary,  as  this  adds  very  considerably  to  the 
pleasures  of  bee-keeping. 
Examination  op  Stocks. 
During  a  spell  of  fine  weather  lately  all  stocks  in  my  apiary 
were  examined.  This  was  the  first  thorough  overhauling  they  have 
had  since  last  autumn.  With  the  exception'  of  some  colonies  of 
bees  that  were  driven  from  straw  skeps  late  last  autumn  they  are  in 
good  condition.  The  latter  were  found  to  be  short  of  stores.  But 
on  the  whole  they  are  not  as  strong  as  they  have  been  during  the 
past  two  years  at  this  season. 
Breeding  was  going  on  apace,  and  in  some  of  the  strongest 
stocks  bees  were  found  distributed  over  all  the  frames  (it  being  the 
middle  of  a  fine  day)  cleaning  them  and  getting  them  in  readiness 
for  their  future  requirements.  An  ordinary  observer  looking  in 
when  the  quift  was  first  lifted  would  think  the  hive  was  full  of 
bees,  but  such  was  not  the  case,  as  during  the  cold  nights  which 
followed  they  would  cluster  over  the  brocd  on  four  or  five  frames 
only.  The  night  temperature  was  much  too  low  in  my  apiary  for 
the  bees  to  be  “fanning  at  the  entrance  at  nine  o’clock  in  the 
evening,”  as  mentioned  by  “  G.  H.”  on  February  20th,  as  on  that 
