April  8,  1897 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
when  turning  incm  out  of  tne  old  pots  had  young  roots  all  round  the 
old  ball  of  soil  ;  the  conns  had  made  a  top  growth  of  half  an  inch,  so  I 
carefully  pricked  off  enough  soil  to  allow  of  repotting  in  the  same  size 
pots  as  before.  I  used  similar  compost  to  that  given  for  the  final 
potting  of  seedlings,  and  gave  the  plants  the  same  kind  of  treatment. 
The  temperature  ranged  from  60°  at  night  to  75°  in  the  daytime. 
The  plants  produced  splendid  foliage,  and  twelve  to  eighteen  flowers 
each.  The  gentleman  and  gardener  gave  me  great  praise,  and  sail  I 
had  hit  the  right  treatment. — Yorkshireman. 
Forcing  French  Beans. 
French  Beans  for  forcing  may  be  sown  either  in  pots  or  in  boxes. 
I  think  the  best  plan  is  to  sow  seven  or  eight  beans  in  a  60-pot,  as  when 
sown  in  boxes  for  transplanting  the  roots  are  liable  to  be  injured,  and 
the  growth  consequently  checked.  Seeds  germinate  well  when  the  pots 
are  placed  on  the  pipes  at  the  back  of  a  Cucumber  house,  and  the  soil 
kept  moist.  In  about  a  week  the  plants  will  be  ready  for  potting.  The 
best  time  for  this  is  when  the  first  two  leaves  are  fully  developed. 
They  should  be  carefully  turned  out  of  the  60’s  and  potted  in  16’s, 
using  one  crock  and  a  handful  of  horse  droppings  for  drainage.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  break  the  ball  of  soil  or  bruise  the  roots.  Sutton’s 
Forcing  Dwarf  Bean  is  very  good.  They  grow  well  potted  in  a  compost 
of  two  parts  loam  to  one  each  of  good  horse  dron pings,  and  one  part  leaf 
soil.  They  require  a  temperature  from  60°  to  70°,  placing  them  as  near 
the  glass  as  possible.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  let  them  Buffer  by 
want  of  water.  A  good  syringing  once  or  twice  a  day  also  greatly  helps 
them,  and  keeps  down  red  spider.  When  the  plants  begin  to  flower  they 
must  be  kept  rather  drier  till  the  pods  form,  when  liberal  supplies  of 
water  are  necessary,  and  liquid  manure  two  or  three  times  a  week  is 
beneficial. — W.  W. 
The  Banana. 
The  Banana  or  Musa  can  be  grown  in  any  ordinary  stove  tempera¬ 
ture,  provided  there  is  abundance  of  moisture  during  the  growing  period. 
Select  strong  suckers,  and  pot  in  a  compost  of  three  parts  loam  with  one 
of  leaf  soil  and  horse  droppings,  at  the  same  time  making  it  firm,  as  the 
Banana  is  a  very  strong  growing  plant.  Having  filled  these  pots  with 
roots,  plant  out  in  a  bed  if  convenient ;  it  is  far  better  than  growing  in 
pots  or  tubs.  Pay  particular  attention  to  the  watering,  as  the  plants 
take  a  large  amount  when  thoroughly  established.  If  planted,  say  in 
September,  and  kept  gradually  on  the  move  they  will  be  strong,  healthy 
plants  by  April,  when  they  will  commence  to  show  signs  of  flowering  ; 
then  keep  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  drier  till  this  stage  is  over, 
together  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  to  insure  fertilisation.  Give 
liquid  manure  in  a  weak  state,  when  required,  for  a  week  or  two ;  it 
may  then  be  increased  in  strength  as  occasion  demands  till  the  fruit 
shows  signs  of  colouring,  when  it  must  be  given  very  sparingly.  A  good 
plan  is  to  cut  the  fruit  with  a  part  of  the  stem  attached  and  hang  it  on 
wires  close  to  the  glass  to  receive  all  the  sun  possible 
There  are  several  varieties  of  Musas,  but  M.  Cavendishi  is  one  of  the 
best,  1  think  ;  it  does  not  take  up  so  much  room  as  the  majority  of 
others.  The  fruit  not  only  ripens  in  the  way  suggested,  but  gives  more 
time  for  the  growing  of  a  young  plant  after  the  old  one  has  been  early 
removed. — C.  E.  L. 
Calanthes. 
Calanthe  Yeitchi  and  C.  vestita  are  amongst  the  most  beautiful 
and  useful  winter  decorative  Orchids  we  have,  and  are  easily  grown  under 
ordinary  conditions.  Given  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture  in  the  growing 
season,  with  care  in  preparing  the  soil,  they  may  be  had  in  great 
beauty  during  two  of  the  dullest  months,  December  and  January.  As 
the  flower  spikes  are  cut  remove  the  plants  into  a  cool  house,  keeping 
them  perfectly  dry  and  out  of  the  reach  of  frost  until  the  beginning  of 
April. 
Some  growers  advocate  the  pseudo-bulbs  being  Bhaken  out  of  the  pots 
and  laid  in  boxes  of  moss  until  they  start,  but  owing  to  the  chance  of 
decay  it  is  safer  to  let  them  remain  in  the  pots  until  they  begin  to 
show  signs  of  growth  ;  they  must  then  be  very  carefully  shaken  out.  Dis¬ 
card  all  the  old  bulbs,  and  lay  the  new  in  a  box  or  tray,  removing  part 
of  the  old  roots.  Why  I  say  part  is  because  some  growers  remove  all 
the  old  roots,  and  then  have  trouble  in  keeping  the  bulbs  upright  when 
potting,  whereas  by  leaving  a  couple  of  inches  you  have  something  to 
help  to  hold  them  in  position  until  the  new  roots  form. 
Have  the  pots  well  cleaned,  32’s  being  a  suitable  size,  and  nicely 
crocked.  The  soil  should  be  composed  of  two  parts  good  fibrous  loam, 
with  the  fine  knocked  out,  one  part  of  cow  manure,  dry  enough  to  pass 
through  a  quarter-inch  riddle,  one  part  of  broken  charcoal  and  crocks, 
with  a  little  fertilising  moss  if  available.  If  good  fibrous  loam  cannot 
be  obtained  mix  a  little  peat  with  the  soil.  Mix  well  and  warm  the 
compost.  Fill  the  pots  nearly  to  the  rim,  place  from  three  to  five 
pseudo-bulbs,  according  to  size,  in  the  centre  of  the  pots,  and  let  the 
growth  lean  outward  as  much  as  possible.  Work  the  compost  well 
around  them  among  the  old  roots  until  the  bulbs  will  stand,  but  do  not 
bury  them  deeply.  Place  the  pots  on  a  shelf  at  the  back  of  Cucumber 
or  Melon  house.  Do  not  give  water  unless  the  weather  be  very  hot, 
then  choose  a  fine  day,  and  sprinkle  them  with  a  fine  rose.  They  will 
soon  produce  roots,  and  after  the  pots  are  well  filled  give  liberal  supplies 
of  weak  cow  manure  water  right  up  to  the  time  the  flowers  begin  to 
open. 
Calanthes  are  often  spoilt  by  withholding  the  water  too  soon,  and 
then,  instead  of  producing  long,  well  flowered  spikes,  they  are  often 
poor,  and  die  away  before  half  the  flowers  are  open. — J.  B.,  Eastnor 
'Gardens. 
:',oi 
Cannas. 
These  beautiful  plants  are  now  starting  into  a  new  form  of  life 
after  about  three  months’  rest.  They  should  be  potted  for  the  green¬ 
house  and  flower  garden.  We  find  the  best  compost  to  grow  them  in 
is  three  parts  loam,  two  parts  leaf  mould,  and  one  part  sand.  After 
potting  they  are  placed  in  gentle  heat  until  growth  commences — a 
Peach  house  or  vinery  will  be  found  a  very  suitable  place  for  them.  It 
will  be  necessary  to  fumigate  them  occasionally,  as  they  are  subject  to 
attacks  of  green  fly.  Daring  the  growing  season  the  plants  require 
copious  supplies  of  moisture,  bo'th  at  the  roots  and  also  overhead  with 
the  syringe.  They  may  be  planted  out  about  the  first  week  in  June  in 
a  rich  compost,  attention  being  given  to  watering,  which  will  be  well 
repaid  with  a  profusion  of  flowers.  On  the  advent  of  frost  they  must 
be  taken  up,  potted  or  boxed  to  preserve  the  roots  from  shrivelling,  and 
kept  in  a  cool  dry  place  for  the  winter. — C.  M. 
Chimonanthus  fragrans  grandiflorus. 
I  think  this  fragrant  winter-flowering  shrub  is  not  so  well  known  as 
it  deserves  to  be.  Flowering  as  it  does  from  December  till  late  spring 
it  comes  in  very  useful  for  house  and  table  decoration,  sprays,  and 
buttonholes.  The  flowers  are  a  whitish  yellow  with  dark  centre,  and 
are  very  sweet,  especially  C.  fragrans,  but  C.  f.  grandiflorus  is  the  better 
of  the  two,  the  flowers  being  larger  and  not  so  strongly  soented. 
The  best  situation  for  a  plant  is  a  south  wall  where  it  is  fully 
exposed  to  the  sun.  Although  quite  hardy,  whilst  flowering  a  little 
protection  should  be  given,  such  as  mats  suspended  from  the  top  of  the 
wall,  so  that  they  may  be  drawn  aside  or  rolled  up  during  mild  weather. 
They  can  also  be  used  to  protect  the  flowers  during  hot  sun. 
After  flowering  the  shoots  should  be  shortened  to  two  or  three  buds, 
as  the  flowers  are  produced  on  the  preceding  season’s  growth.  Over¬ 
crowding  should  be  avoided,  for  unless  the  wood  is  well  ripened  flowers 
will  not  follow.  The  plants  require  deep  rich  sandy  soil,  and  are  usually 
propagated  by  layering  in  the  autumn. — A.  C.  W.,  Belcarres. 
Mignonette. 
Mignonette  is  particularly  welcome  in  winter  and  spring  both  in 
pots  for  conservatory  and  room  decoration,  and  also  for  cutting.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  during  the  month  of  August.  As  the  seedlings 
will  not  readily  transplant  we  sow  in  the  pots  the  plants  are  to  flower 
in,  these  are  32’s,  or  6-inch,  eight  seeds  being  sown  in  each  pot,  covering 
lightly,  and  subsequently  thinning  the  plants  to  five  of  the  stronger. 
The  compost  consists  of  two  parts  good  loam,  one  part  leaf  soil  or  well 
decayed  manure,  and  enough  sand  to  keep  the  whole  porous.  To  every 
bushel  of  the  mixture  we  add  a  shovelful  of  crushed  mortar  rubbish  and 
a  48-potful  of  soot. 
When  the  seed  is  sown  the  pots  are  placed  in  a  frame  to  be  protected 
from  rain.  When  the  plants  appear  they  are  afforded  abundance  of  light 
and  air  to  keep  them  sturdy,  which  is  very  important.  Towards  the  end  of 
September  they  are  placed  close  to  the  glass  in  a  pit  or  house,  where  a 
temperature  of  about  45°  can  be  maintained  ;  and  air  is  admitted  on  all 
favourable  occasions,  fbr  Mignonette  must  not  be  coddled.  When  the 
flower  spikes  appear  weak  liquid  manure  is  given,  also  a  sprinkling  of 
artificial  manure.  To  support  the  plants  three  or  four  light  sticks  are 
placed  round  the  edge  of  the  pot,  and  a  piece  of  raflii  twisted  round 
them. — Worplesdon. 
Early  Flowering  Chrysanthemums. 
To  obtain  fir3t-clasB  blooms  for  exhibition  of  Madame  C.  Desgrange 
and  its  sports,  G.  Wermig  and  Mrs.  Hawkins,  healthy  cuttings  should 
be  inserted  during  the  last  week  of  December  singly  in  well-drained 
thumb  pots,  using  a  compost  of  equal  parts  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  silver 
sand.  Plunge  in  cold  frames  free  from  frost,  and  as  soon  as  rooted 
afford  air  on  all  favourable  occasions,  but  avoid  cold  cutting  winds. 
The  plants  will  be  ready  for  60’s  by  the  middle  of  February,  adding  a 
sprinkling  of  wood  ashes  to  the  above  compost.  Return  to  the  cold 
frame,  and  keep  them  close  for  a  few  days  afterwards,  admitting 
air  gradually  at  first,  then  fully.  Watering  should  be  carefully  attended 
to,  never  allowing  the  roots  to  become  dry,  or  the  plants  will  lose  their 
lower  leaves.  Their  next  shift  will  be  into  48’s,  using  an  extra  part  of 
loam.  Never  allow  them  to  become  root-bound,  but  examine  and  repot 
as  they  may  require  firmly  from  first  to  last  to  insure  short-jointed 
wood.  Still  keep  them  in  the  cold  frames,  but  draw  the  lights  off  during 
mild  weather. 
They  will  be  ready  for  their  final  pots  by  the  middle  of  May,  24’§ 
being  a  suitable  size  to  flower  the  plants  in.  The  compost  that  suits 
them  well  is  found  in  three  parts  rough  turfy  loam,  one  each  of  leaf 
mould,  sand  and  wood  ashes,  with  a  sprinkling  of  soot  and  bone  dust. 
Before  potting  see  that  the  soil  is  moist,  as  the  plants  ought  not  to 
require  water  for  a  couple  of  days,  but  use  the  syringe  freely  amongst 
them  on  all  favourable  occasions,  then  give  a  thorough  watering  to 
moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage. 
Stand  the  plants  in  their  summer  quarters  in  rows  running  north 
and  south,  and  examine  them  two  or  three  times  a  day  for  the  purpose 
of  watering.  When  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots  liquid  manure  should 
be  afforded.  A  bag  of  soot  placed  in  a  tub  of  water  with  sheep 
droppings  forms  a  good  solution.  Some  of  the  plants  will  make  their 
first  break  by  the  middle  of  June:  remove  the  point  with  the  bud,  as 
that  will  cause  them  to  grow  more  before  showing  the  next  crown  bud  ; 
select  three  shoots,  removing  all  others  as  fast  as  they  appear  ;  by  the 
middle  of  July  they  will  show  the  proper  bud  to  select.  From  six  to 
seven  weeks  elapse  before  the  buds  “  take  ”  and  the  blooms  are  fully 
