302 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
April  8,  1897. 
developed.  A  sprinkling  of  some  approved  fertiliser  may  be  given  as 
soon  as  the  bud  is  set.  House  the  plants  as  soon  as  they  show  colour, 
and  slightly  shade  them. 
Earwigs  and  green  caterpillars  are  the  two  most  troublesome  pests, 
and  hand-picking  is  the  safest  mode  of  riddance.  If  the  above  details 
of  culture  be  carried  out  the  plants  will  require  no  staking,  and  blooms 
that  will  not  disgrace  the  exhibition  table  will  be  the  result. — Grower. 
A  Few  Notes  on  the  Pine  Apple. 
When  the  suckers  are  taken  off  in  September  they  must  be  potted 
very  firmly,  and  plunged  in  a  hotbed  as  close  to  the  glass  as  possible  in 
a  properly  heated  pit.  They  should  be  rooted  in  about  six  weeks,  and 
will  require  little  attention  during  the  next  two  months.  Keep  them 
rather  dry  than  wet.  A  great  mistake  at  all  times  is  the  over-watering 
of  Pines.  Early  in  February  the  plants  will  be  ready  for  the  fruiting 
pots  or  planting  out,  the  latter  method  saving  much  labour  during  the 
fruiting  season. 
For  planting  make  up  a  good  bed  of  leaves  (as  is  usual  when  the 
plants  are  grown  in  pots  and  plunged),  prepare  a  compost  of  three  parts 
good  turfy  loam,  one  part  horse  droppings  and  leaf  soil ;  a  sprinkling 
of  bone  meal,  horn  shavings,  Thomson’s  manure,  wood  ashes,  and  soot 
improving  the  mixture.  Make  the  beds  for  planting  2  feet  wide  and 
15  inches  deep.  The  back  one  may  be  12  or  15  inches  higher  than  the 
next,  by  driving  stakes  into  the  bed  and  putting  boards  behind  them. 
When  planted  turves  should  be  laid  between  the  plants,  so  that  each  one 
receives  the  full  allowance  of  water  when  required. 
The  house  must  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night, 
allowing  it  to  rise  to  70°  or  75°  in  the  daytime  for  the  first  few  weeks, 
then  another  rise  of  5°  may  be  given  when  the  season  has  advanced  a 
little  more.  Close  early,  and  allow  the  temperature  to  rise  to  100°  with 
plenty  of  moisture.  Water  should  be  given  very  sparingly  at  the  roots 
during  the  first  year.  In  September  the  plants  will  be  strong,  and  the 
temperature  may  be  gradually  lowered  before  the  winter  comes  on,  to 
60°  at  night.  They  will  not  require  any  water  from  that  time  till 
starting  again  in  February. 
They  should  then  begin  to  show  signs  of  throwing  up  the  fruits.  A 
thorough  watering  ought  then  to  be  given,  using  it  (and  on  all  occasions) 
at  a  temperature  of  85°.  Raise  the  temperature  to  70°  at  night,  with  a 
bottom  heat  of  not  less  than  75°.  Syringe  on  bright  days,  closing  early 
with  as  much  sun  heat  as  possible.  When  flowering  commences 
syringing  must  be  done  very  lightly,  not  allowing  any  water  to  reach 
the  flowers,  or  some  of  the  pips  will  come  deformed  through  defective 
fertilisation. 
After  the  flowering  afford  the  plants  abundance  of  heat  and  moisture, 
but  do  not  syringe  them  at  this  stage,  or  the  water  will  lodge  in  the 
axils  of  the  leaves  of  the  crowns  and  make  them  grow  out  of  proportion 
to  the  fruit.  Keep  liquid  manure  in  the  evaporating  troughs.  The 
fruits  after  a  time  will  require  staking,  and  great  care  must  be  taken 
to  keep  them  straight,  as  they  look  very  much  better  so  both  for  table 
and  exhibition  than  when  the  reverse.  Watering  must  be  attended  to 
as  required,  giving  the  plants  some  stimulant,  but  when  the  fruit  shows 
signs  of  colouring  moisture  must  be  withheld,  or  there  will  be  a  tendency 
to  blackness  of  the  pips,  which  should  be  bright  and  clear. 
Though  Pines  are  not  generally  grown,  I  hope  these  notes,  the  result 
of  experience,  may  be  useful  to  some  readers  of  the  “  Domain.” 
— C.  E.  L. 
[“  J.  L.  G.”  sends  a  very  creditable  article  as  a  “first  try”  on 
“  Early  Fruit  Houses,”  but  has  prohibited  its  publication  by  omitting 
his  name  and  address  and  writing  on  both  sides  of  the  paper.  All 
young  gardeners  who  desire  to  write  acceptably  for  the  press  should 
read  and  preserve  the  Journal  of  Horticulture  for  December  31st,  1896, 
and  those  who  do  not  possess  it  will  find  3£d.  sent  in  stamps  to  the 
publisher,  with  a  request  for  a  copy,  a  profitable  investment.  If 
“  J.  L.  G.”  send  his  name  and  address  his  M.S.  shall  be  returned  to 
him  for  rectification.] 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Outdoor  Pigs. — Figs  do  not  succeed  in  soil  of  a  deep, 
strong  texture,  because  they  are  likely  in  such  to  root  deeply  and  grow 
too  strongly,  the  wood  resulting  being  sappy  in  character.  They  delight 
in  a  chalk  subsoil,  inasmuch  as  the  soil  overlying  such  must  be  naturally 
well  drained,  and  is  usually  a  fertile  loam  of  calcareous  nature.  It  should 
be  made  firm  previous  to  planting,  consolidating  it  only,  however,  when 
moderately  dry.  It  is  essential  that  a  warm  position  be  selected  for  the 
trees  ;  one  having  a  south  or  south-west  aspect  is  the  best.  Position  aids 
materially  in  modifying  growth,  assisting  it  to  be  short-jointed  and 
ultimately  fruitful.  Unsuitable  soils  may  be  improved  by  artificial 
draining  and  adding  lime  rubbish  or  chalk  to  the  staple  material  for 
planting  in.  Under  these  conditions  the  aspect  is  even  of  greater  im¬ 
portance,  for  without  abundance  of  sun  the  ripening  of  the  shoots  cannot 
be  fully  effected.  In  no  case  add  manure  when  preparing  ground  for 
Figs.  Success  will  probably  be  better  insured  in  soil  below  the  average- 
in  fertility  than  in  one  possessing  an  excess  of  organic  matter.  The 
best  time  to  plant  is  during  the  present  month,  choosing  maiden  trees. 
Pruning  Young  Trees. — Young  maiden  trees  being  only  furnished 
with  one  stem  lequire  cutting  well  back  after  planting,  usually  to  a 
length  of  15  inches.  Two  breaks  equal  in  strength  may  be  taken  one 
from  each  side,  which  will  form  the  first  foundation.  From  these  other 
shoots  may  be  allowed  to  grow  at  regular  distances  in  suitable  position* 
for  extension,  leaving  ample  space  between  them  for  laying  ia  fruiting 
shoots. 
Pruning  Old  Trees.  —  The  principal  pruning  necessary  consists  in 
thinning  out  and  pruning  back  to  a  few  buds  a  certain  proportion  of 
shoots.  Shoots  capable  of  bearing  a  crop  must  be  retained  at  full 
length.  Allow  such  as  these  ample  space  by  clearing  out  crowded 
growths  surrounding  them.  Shoots  with  wood  buds  only  should  be 
selected  for  close  shortening  in,  thus  affording  an  opportunity  of  furnish¬ 
ing  the  lower  parts  of  branches  with  wood.  The  adoption  of  these- 
principles  of  pruning  annually  insures  the  trees  being  kept  in  a  vigorous- 
and  fruitful  condition,  as  well  as  securing  a  well  balanced  growth  over 
the  entire  space  available. 
Top-dressing  Fruit  Trees. — Newly  formed  plantations  of  fruit 
will  be  benefited  considerably  throughout  the  season  by  lightly  mulching 
over  the  roots  before  the  surface  dries  too  much  with  manure  in  a  half 
decayed  lumpy  state,  this  serving  to  preserve  moisture  in  the  soil,  while 
admitting  air  and  warmth.  These  conditions  are  essential  to  free- 
growth,  hence  rich  dressings  Jof  manure  would  not  be  so  serviceable^ 
Should  the  summer  prove  very  dry  the  mulching  may  be  renewed  when: 
necessary. 
Mulching  Old  Trees. — Trees  in  bearing  and  having  roots  near  the 
surface  may  have  richer  applications  to  the  roots.  A  dressing  of  some 
approved  artificial  manure  may  be  given  to  those  trees  where  a  good 
crop  is  anticipated  or  more  growth  is  desirable.  The  most  stimulating 
and  easily  dissolved  fertilisers  ought  not  to  be  wholly  used  at  this  period 
without  admixture.  Nitrate  of  Boda  is  very  quick  in  action.  Sulphate 
of  ammonia  is  also  soluble,  but  not  so  rapid  as  the  former.  Soil  retains 
ammonia  some  time  while  it  remains  as  such,  but  under  certain  con¬ 
ditions  it  is  quickly  clanged  to  nitrate,  and  if  the  roots  do  not  then 
make  use  of  it,  it  is  washed  through  the  soil.  A  good  mixture  of 
chemical  manures  consists  of  mineral  superphosphate  two  parts,, 
nitrate  of  soda  one  part,  muriate  of  potash  two  parts,  and  dissolved 
bone  one  part.  The  whole  should  be  well  mixed,  crushing  as  fine  as 
possible.  Apply  4  ozs.  to  the  square  yard,  preferably  mixing  with  soil 
or  decayed  manure  for  trees  or  bushes  having  abundance  of  roots  near 
the  surface,  so  that  the  fibres  may  not  be  injured.  With  deep-rooted 
trees  the  manure  may  be  applied  direct  on  the  surface.  Further  dressings 
can  be  given  when  fruit  is  set,  and  again  when  swelling  freely.  Half 
the  quantity  applied  at  the  first  dressing  is  sufficient  for  successions! 
applications. 
Hoeing-  Fruit  Borders.— Vacant  soil  between  either  young  or  old 
trees  should  be  loosened  with  the  hoe.  This  will  act  effectively  in  de¬ 
stroying  germinating  seedling  weeds  and  improve  the  appearance  of  the 
quarters.  In  the  case  of  young  plantations  a  loose  surface  between  the 
trees  promotes  the  active  growth  desirable,  inasmuch  as  air  and  Warmth 
are  admitted,  moisture  being  conserved. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House.— The  very  early 
vaiieties  Alexander  and  Waterloo  Peaches,  with  Cardinal  Nectarine, 
have  completed  the  stoning  process,  and  are  closely  followed  in  this 
respect  by  Early  Louise  Peaches  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarine.  These 
very  early  varieties  should  be  grown  in  a  house  by  themselves,  so  that 
when  the  stoning  is  completed  the  fruit  may  be  accelerated  in  ripening 
by  an  increased  temperature,  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  exceed  65°  at 
night,  or  70°  to  75°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  because  the  growths  are  liable 
to  become  attenuated  when  the  atmosphere  is  warm,  close,  and  moist,. 
It  is  different  under  sun  heat,  as  evaporation  is  going  on,  and  asssimila- 
tion  taking  place  to  a  much  larger  extent  ;  therefore  the  temperature 
may  be  kept  through  the  day  at  75°  to  85°  from  sun  heat,  ventilating 
at  the  top  of  the  house  at  75°,  and  opening  the  front  at  80°,  so  as  to 
secure  a  circulation.  To  prevent  moisture  being  deposited  on  the  fruit 
and  “  spot  ”  induced,  it  is  advisable  to  leave  a  chink  of  air  at  the  top  of 
the  house  constantly.  Close  the  house  at  80°,  and  sufficiently  early  to 
allow  of  a  rise  to  85°  or  90°,  the  trees  being  syringed,  and  surfaces 
well  damped  so  as  to  secure  atmospheric  moisture,  which  will  cause  the 
fruit  to  swell  to  a  great  size,  Alexander  and  Waterloo  reaching  10  inches 
in  circumference.  Employ  clear  rain  water,  and  have  the  fruit  dry 
before  nightfall.  Syringing  the  trees  must  cease  directly  the  fruits 
commence  ripeuing,  otherwise  their  skins  may  become  rough  or  cracked, 
and  then  they  are  spoiled  in  appearance  and  have  a  musty  flavour 
when  ripe.  A  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  should  be  maintained 
for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage  by  damping  available  surfaces  twice  a  day, 
and  keeping  the  mulching  on  the  borders  moistened  as  it  becomes  dry. 
The  second  early  varieties,  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Early  Alfred,  Dr. 
Hogg,  and  Rivers’  Early  York  Peaches,  Rivers’  Early,  Lord  Napier,  and 
Goldoni  or  Darwin  Nectarines,  started  in  December,  have  scarcely 
finished  stoning,  and  they  must  not  have  a  temperature  exceeding  60° 
to  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  with  gleams  of  sun.  Allow  5°  to 
10°  more  from  sun  heat  with  a  free  circulation  of  air.  Stirling  Castle,. 
Royal  George,  Dymond,  and  Crimson  Galande,  all  Peaches  carrying  a 
