April  8,  189L 
JOURNAL  OR  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
303 
high  colour  combiued  with  first-class  quality,  and  unrivalled  for  forcing, 
all  points  considered,  are  still  later  in  stoning,  as  also  are  Stanwick 
Elruge,  Dryden,  and  Humboldt  Nectarines  ;  therefore  when  a  number  of 
varieties  are  grown  in  the  same  house  the  temperature  must  be  regulated 
so  as  to  suit  the  later  varieties.  Pay  particular  attention  to  the  watering  ; 
keep  the  border  mulched  with  sweet,  rather  lumpy  manure  about  an 
inch  thick,  and  afford  liquid  manure  when  necessary,  or  top-dressings  of 
fertilisers  washed  in,  but  avoid  encouraging  sappy  growths  by  excessive 
and  needless  supplies.  Stop  or  remove  all  gross  growths,  they  have 
time  to  draw  the  supplies  fit  sap  from  the  weaker  parts  of  the  trees, 
but  allow  leading  shoots,  particularly  of  young  trees,  to  extend  over 
uncovered  parts  of  the  trellis,  pinching  out  their  points  when  the  fruits 
begin  to  take  the  last  swelling,  or  they  may  be  left  their  full  length 
when  sturdy  and  short-jointed.  Remove  the  leaves  over  or  in  front  of 
the  fruit,  and  turn  the  latter  up  to  the  light  by  thin  laths  placed  across 
the  trellis  with  the  apex  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  most  light,  so 
that  the  colour  may  be  there  most  pronounced  and  the  fruit  highly 
flavoured. 
Disbudding  and  the  shoots  that  are  to  succeed  those  now  fruiting 
having  been  properly  attended  to,  there  will  not  be  any  more  growths 
than  are  necessary  for  next  year’s  bearing,  the  extension  of  the  tree,  or 
for  attracting  the  sap  to  the  fruit.  Gross  shoots  are  best  removed,  as 
they  appropriate  an  undue  amount  of  sap,  often  fall  a  prey  to  gumming, 
and  cause  unequal  vigour  in  the  branches  of  the  tree.  Pinch  laterals  at 
the  first  leaf.  Shoots  retained  to  attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit  ought  to  be 
stopped  in  the  first  instance  at  three  or  four  joints  of  growth.  Endeavour 
to  provide  an  equal  distribution  of  foliage  that  will  shade  and  protect 
tho  strong  wood  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  as  the  season  advances, 
as  they  are  liable  to  become  sunburnt  or  dried,  and  the  channels  that 
convey  the  sap  are  thus  contracted.  Besides,  such  condition  invites 
attacks  of  the  Peach-boring  Wceberian  moth  caterpillar.  Avoid  over¬ 
crowding  the  foliage,  not  permitting  more  shoots  than  can  have  full 
exposure  to  light  and  air. 
Ventilate  early  but  carefully,  avoiding  depressions  of  temperature 
and  cold  currents.  '  Thin  the  fruits  where  too  thickly  placed,  not  over¬ 
doing  it.  With  the  trees  in  good  health  and  not  too  luxuriant  the 
prospect  of  stoning  a  full  crop  of  fruit  is  more  likely  than  when  the 
trees  are  overburdened,  whilst  deferring  thinning  only  takes  so  much 
size  from  those  fruits  that  are  ultimately  allowed  to  remain  for  the  crop. 
Inside  borders  must  be  duly  watered,  and  may  be  mulched  with  short 
sweet  stable  manure,  but  not  too  fresh  or  too  thick. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — In  disbudding  the  strongest  parts  of  the 
ree  would  be  commenced  with,  and  a  shoot  reserved  at  the  base  of  the 
current  year’s  bearing  shoots.  A  growth  on  a  level  with  or  above  the 
fruit  must  also  be  retained  on  each  bearing  shoot,  and  be  pinched  at 
three  or  four  joints,  leaving  no  more  extensions  than  are  necessary  for 
furnishing  the  trees  with  branches,  which  should  be  12  to  15  inches 
apart.  On  last  year’s  extensions  the  growths  for  next  year’s  bearing 
should  be  left  12  to  15  inches  distance  apart.  Attend  to  thinning  the 
fruit,  removing  the  worst  placed,  reserving  a  few  more  only  than  will 
be  required  for  the  crop.  One  fruit  to  every  square  foot  of  trellis 
covered  by  the  tree  is  ample,  but  vigorous  trees  may  have  the  fruit  left 
a  little  closer,  and  weakly  trees  be  correspondingly  thinned.  Syringe 
early  on  fine  mornings,  admit  a  little  air  shortly  afterwards,  gradually 
increasing  the  ventilation  with  the  sun’s  heat,  and  syringe  the  trees 
again  about  3  p.m.,  closing  the  house  so  as  to  insure  a  slight  rise  from 
sun  heat. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  March. — As  the  blossoming  is  over  recourse 
may  be  had  to  measures  for  the  destruction  of  insects.  Fumigation 
must  be  carefully  practised,  as  the  tender  foliage  and  young  fruits  are 
highly  susceptible  to  injury,  an  overdose  skeletonising  the  leaves  and 
causing  the  fruits  to  fall.  Similar  remarks  apply  to  insecticides,  which, 
if  used  too  strong,  may  prove  as  injurious  to  the  leaves  and  crop  as  to 
the  insects.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon  on 
fine  days,  whilst  in  dull  weather  an  occasional  syringing  with  damping 
of  the  paths  and  borders  will  suffice.  Water  inside  borders  as  required, 
always  affording  enough  when  any  is  needed  to  thoroughly  moisten  the 
mass  of  soil  through  to  the  drainage.  Proceed  with  disbudding  gradu¬ 
ally,  a  little  each  day,  and  observe  the  same  rule  in  thinning  the  fruit, 
rubbing  off  the  smallest  and  badly  placed  as  soon  as  the  most  prominent 
show  signs  of  taking  the  lead.  Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable  occa¬ 
sions,  closing  early  with  a  view  to  utilising  the  sun’s  heat. 
Latest  Houses. — The  trees  in  most  cases  are  in  blossom,  and  this 
profits  by  free  ventilation,  insures  sturdiness  and  high  concentration  on 
the  parts  developing.  Merely  use  fire  heat  to  exclude  frost,  and  to  allow 
ventilation  during  the  day.  When  the  anthers  show  turn  on  the  heat 
in  the  morning  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  50°  by  8  a  M.,and  keep  at 
that  through  the  day  with  a  gentle  circulation  of  air,  turning  off  the  heat 
early  in  the  afternoon,  so  as  to  allow  the  pipes  to  cool  before  night,  and 
the  temperature  falling  to  its  night  minimum  of  40°  to  45°.  This  is  quite 
safe,  and  ought  to  be  secured  after  the  blossoms  expand  with  a  little 
air  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  through  the  night  on  the 
flowers.  Impregnation  may  be  effected  by  shaking  the  trees,  dustiDg 
the  flowers  with  a  rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  small  stick,  a  camel’s- 
hair  brush,  or  a  plume  of  Pampas  Grass,  but  the  best  aids  to  a  good  set 
are  free  ventilation  and  a  genial  atmosphere. 
Unheated  houses  or  wall  cases  should  be  very  freely  ventilated  in 
bright  weather,  but  when  the  petals  unfold  it  is  necessary  to  secure  a 
genial  temperature  by  day,  ventilating  at  and  regulating  it  so  as  to 
secure  a  heat  of  50°.  As  a  safeguard  againBt  frost  the  house  may  be 
Closed  rather  early  enclosing  sun  heat  up  to  65°.  Do  not  use  water  for 
damping  down  after  noon,  and  this  will  prevent  moisture  condensing  on 
the  flowers  through  the  night,  or  a  little  air  will  allow  it  to  escape. 
Scrim  canvas  or  other  material  over  the  roof  is  useful  on  frosty  nights. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Gladioli. — If  the  corms  are  kept  out  of  the  ground  much  longer 
the  probability  is  they  will  either  fail  to  start  strongly  or  the  plants  be 
too  late  to  flower  properly.  Corms  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground 
now,  and  others  for  succession  not  later  than  the  end  of  April.  They 
pay  well  for  liberal  culture,  and  seeing  how  cheaply  handsome  varieties 
can  be  bought,  there  is  little  excuse  for  their  not  being  grown  in  every 
flower  garden.  If  wanted  particularly  good,  they  ought  to  be  grown  by 
themselves  on  well-manured,  deeply  dag  ground,  each  corm  surrounded 
with  silver  sand  and  a  little  fresh  loam.  They  ought  to  be  buried 
4  inches  below  the  surface,  and  may  be  arranged  9  inches  apart  in  rows 
1  foot  asunder.  In  mixed  borders  plant  either  in  groups  of  three  or 
singly.  Gladioli  are  very  effective  in  beds  dotted  among  Mignonette, 
Heliotrope,  and  other  low  growing  flowers. 
Herbaceous  Lobelia. — These  tall-growing  species,  of  which  Queen 
Victoria  and  cardinalis  fulgens  are  two  of  the  best,  make  the  finest  dis¬ 
play  if  the  seed  is  sown  in  June  and  strong  plants  prepared  and  wintered 
in  frames  for  turning  out  early  in  May,  but  much  may  also  be  done  by 
dividing  old  stools  now.  If  these  have  been  kept  in  a  cold  frame,  they 
may  now  be  split  up  freely,  every  young  shoot  being  furnished  with 
roots  at  the  base.  Either  temporarily  bed  them  out  in  frames  or  pot 
them  singly,  and  strong,  well-established  plants  may  be  had  by  bedding 
out  time.  The  crimson  stalks  and  foliage  are  effective,  and  late  in  the 
summer  the  spikes  of  scarlet  flowers  highly  attractive.  The  plants  cannot 
well  be  too  liberally  treated  at  the  roots. 
Hollyhocks.  —  Old  stools  wintered  under  glass  should  now  be 
sufficiently  advanced  for  dividing,  every  young  growth  furnished  with 
roots  being  potted  singly  and  kept  in  gentle  heat  till  well  established. 
Cuttings  taken  off  with  a  heel,  placed  separately  in  2^-inch  pots,  and 
set  on  a  warm  flue  or  the  staging  very  close  to  hot- water  pipes,  will  root 
in  the  course  of  three  or  four  weeks,  but  will  damp  off  if  kept  too  close 
and  moist.  Any  that  have  been  already  rooted  should,  before  they  are 
root-bound,  be  given  a  shift  into  5-inch  pots  and  kept  in  gentle  heat  for 
a  time.  Seedlings  raised  early  may  be  grown  sufficiently  strong  to 
flower  late  in  summer,  but  they  must  be  kept  steadily  growing  till  they 
are  planted  out  in  well-prepared  borders. 
Sweet  Peas. — These  are  highly  valued,  and  more  than  ordinary 
pains  have  to  be  taken  in  raising  a  supply  of  plants.  This  season  the 
seed  is  of  an  inferior  character,  that  of  choice  varieties  germinating 
badly,  even  in  heat,  and  it  is  so  expensive  that  it  is  unwise  to  risk 
sowing  it  in  the  open,  unless  the  soil  is  of  a  warm  light  character. 
Plants  raised  early  should  be  hardened,  and  more  seed  sown  in  3-inch 
pots.  A  group  of  from  five  to  eight  plants  well  isolated  and  duly 
supported  will  thrive  and  flower  far  better  than  when  crowded  into 
rows.  Make  a  successional  sowing  of  common  varieties  where  they  are 
to  flower.  Give  them  plenty  of  manure  at  the  roots,  water  freely  in 
dry  weather,  and  they  will  continue  to  flower  abundantly  till  frosts 
intervene. 
Sunflowers. — There  are  now  quite  a  large  number  of  annual  Sun¬ 
flowers,  including  both  single  and  double  flowering,  tall  and  dwarf 
varieties.  The  more  robust  of  them  may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are 
to  flower,  this  being  done  late  in  April ;  but  as  they  transplant  readily, 
raising  under  glass  is  the  plan  generally  adopted,  and  is  really  the 
best  for  the  more  delicate  varieties,  including  the  charming  New 
Miniature.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  now  or  before  the  end  of  April  in 
pans  or  boxes,  placing  these  in  gentle  heat.  Raised  thinly  and  not 
unduly  forced  the  plants  will  be  sturdy,  and  there  will  be  no  necessity 
to  pot  them  off. 
Balsams,  Rlclnuses,  Grasses. — The  first  named  can  be  raised  in 
the  open,  the  seed  being  sown  thinly  in  patches  where  the  plants  are 
to  flower  not  later  than  the  first  week  in  May.  A  stock  will,  however, 
be  obtained  with  greater  certainty  by  sowing  the  seed  in  panB  and 
placing  these  on  a  warm  greenhouse  shelf.  If  the  soil  is  shaded  and 
uniformly  moist  the  plants  will  soon  appear  in  a  sturdy  form  for  potting 
singly.  Ricinuses  are  also  easily  raised,  and  a  few  of  these  noble  plants 
are  very  effective  in  the  pleasure  grounds.  From  the  middle  to  the 
end  of  April  Is  soon  enough  to  sow  the  seed,  as  it  germinates  in  a  few 
days,  strong  plants  being  easily  prepared  for  the  open  in  a  month. 
Sow  singly  in  3-inch  pots,  place  in  heat,  and  keep  the  plants  near  the 
glass.  Give  a  shift  before  they  become  root-bound.  Ornamental 
Grasses  may  be  sown  now  thinly  in  patches  where  they  are  to  grow, 
and  according  to  their  respective  heights,  or  they  may  be  raised  in  boxes 
in  gentle  heat,  and  duly  moved  out  in  patches.  Their  requirements 
are  of  the  simplest  description,  crowding  the  plants  being  the  mistake 
most  often  made.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  sow  Zinnias  under  glass. 
Sowing  Hardy  Annuals.— If  the  borders  were  duly  manured 
and  in  good  condition  there  should  be  no  further  delay  in  sowing  hardy 
annuals,  including  Alyssum,  Candytuft,  Collinsia,  Chrysanthemums, 
Convolvuluses,  Calliopsis,  Godetias,  Helichrysums,  Larkspurs,  Linums, 
Malopes,  Mignonette,  Nasturtiums,  Nemophilas,  Poppies,  Sweet  Sultans, 
Tropmolums,  Venus’  Looking  Glass,  Virginian  Stock,  Hibiscus,  and  such 
like.  Fine  down  the  soil,  moisten  it  if  at  all  dry,  form  circular  patches, 
and  sow  the  seed  thinly,  according  to  the  catalogue  heights  of  the 
varieties.  Place  a  peg  or  label  to  each,  and  cover  with  fine  sifted  soil. 
Keep  a  good  look  out  for  slugs,  trapping  or  otherwise  destroying  these 
before  they  play  havoc  with  the  seedlings. 
