18 
JOURNAL  OR  HORTICULTURE  ANL  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  15,  1897. 
SOPHRONITIS  GRANDIFLORA. 
A  charming  little  Orchid  when  well  grown  ;  its  large  bright 
flowers  give  it  a  cheerful  appearance,  totally  distinct  from  all 
others  that  are  flowering  at  this  season  of  the  year.  It  will  grow 
very  well  on  Bmall  blocks  of  wood  (fig.  68),  but  in  this  position 
requires  more  attention  in  watering  than  when  grown  in  small  shallow 
pans.  It  should  be  suspended  from  the  roof,  and  if  employed 
freely  or  alternately  with  Odontoglossum  Cervantesi  or  even  the 
beautiful  and  distinct  0.  Rossi  majus,  which  also  flowers  about  the 
same  time,  the  effect  is  all  that  can  be  desired.  The  Sophronitis 
is  an  obliging  Orchid,  for  it  appears  to  thrive  well  either  in  a  warm 
or  a  cool  house,  and  I  have  seen  some  grand  specimens  in  a  stove 
with  brighter  flowers  than  when  in  a  cool  house.  It  delights  in  a 
little  heat,  such  as  afforded  in  an  intermediate  house,  while  making 
its  growth,  but  when  at  rest  should  have  cool  house  treatment, 
which  insures  a  vigorous  growth  the  following  season.  Although 
its  flowers  are  brighter  ic  heat  they  do  not  last  quite  so  long  as  in 
a  cooler  house.  To  grow  this  Orchid  successfully  too  much  rooting 
material  should  not  be  given  it ;  but  the  pans  should  be  liberally 
drained  with  crocks  and  charcoal,  a  little  peat  fibre  and  living 
sphagnum  being  used  for  the  compost. — Grower. 
THE  PELARGONIUM. 
In  the  following  notes  I  do  not  propose  to  deal  with  the  beautiful 
and  ever- popular  Zonal,  but  with  those  plants  that  have  rough,  serrated 
leaves,  which  used  to  be  very  largely  grown  by  cottagers  for  window 
adornment,  and  possibly  are  now  in  some  parts  of  the  country,  and  was 
commonly  known  as  the  Nettle  Geranium.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beau¬ 
tiful  of  oar  greenhouse  plants,  and  a  good  collection  when  in  full  bloom 
cannot  be  excelled  for  brilliancy  of  display.  There  is  a  chasteness  in 
the  biushes,  blotches,  and  markings  that  is  always  admired.  Another 
recommendation  is  its  hardiness,  as  it  will  live  and  flower  in  the  open 
air  in  summer,  and  can  be  wintered  almost  anywhere  if  frost  is  excluded. 
In  mild  winters  some  of  the  strongest  varieties  would  survive  in  a  cold 
fraM, e  if  carefully  protected  with  mats.  I  should  not,  however,  advise 
this  course  to  be  adopted  ;  it  would  be  too  risky  for  valuable  plants.  It 
flourishes  in  a  cool  atmosphere  and  sickens  in  a  hot  one,  while  it  is  easy 
to  propagate  and  easy  to  grow.  Like  everything  else  it  has  its  enemies. 
Green  fly  is  extremely  partial  lo  it,  hence  the  difficulty  of  amateurs  to 
keep  it  on  an  and  free  from  blight.  It  is  not  impossible  to  grow  healthy 
plants  it  you  only  know  how,  and  my  object  is  to  give  such  hints 
from  prscictl  experience  which,  I  trust,  may  prove  serviceable  to  my 
brethren  of  the  craft. 
The  almost  innumerable  varieties  of  Pelargoniums  existing  in  our 
greenhouses  at  the  present  day  owe  their  origin  to  hybridising  and  cross¬ 
breeding,  having  sprung  from  the  comparatively  insignificant  species 
indigenous  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  There  is  probably  no  family  of 
flowering  plants  in  existence  that  has  so  richly  rewarded  the  labours  of 
the  hybridist  as  the  Pelargonium,  or  that  is  used  for  decorative  purposes 
in  such  a  variety  of  ways.  They  can  be  had  in  flower  throughout 
almost  the  whole  of  the  year,  and  are  useful  alike  for  greenhouse,  con¬ 
servatory,  hall,  window,  exhibition,  and  as  cut  flowers. 
Propagation. 
The  ease  and  rapidity  with  which  they  may  be  propagated  is  another 
great  advantage.  Pelargoniums,  as  will  be  easily  understood,  come 
freely  from  seeds,  hence  the  almost  astounding  number  of  varieties  in 
cultivation.  If  this  system  be  adopted  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
the  spring  in  shallow  boxes  or  pans,  well  drained,  and  then  filled  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  rim  with  finely  sifted  soil  composed  of  two  parts 
loam  and  one  of  thoroughly  decomposed  leaf  soil,  making  the  surface 
quite  smooth.  Damp  the  soil  slightly  if  it  is  dry,  and  after  allowing 
the  water  to  drain  through  sow  the  seeds  thinly  and  evenly,  covering  them 
to  a  depth  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  Place  a  sheet  of  glass  over  the 
top  of  the  receptacle,  but  remember  to  remove  it  every  morning  in  order 
to  wipe  off  the  moisture  that  will  condense  on  the  inner  surface,  and  be 
careful  to  tilt  the  covering  slightly  immediately  the  plantlets  push 
through  the  soil ,  increasing  the  ventilation  as  the  plants  attain  size. 
Put  the  seed  boxes  in  gentle  heat,  and  when  the  seedlings  appear 
give  sufficient  water  to  keep  them  growing,  but  do  not  make  the  soil  too 
wet,  as  Pelargoniums  are  somewhat  impatient  of  moisture.  When  the 
seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle,  prick  them  off  singly  into  thumb 
pots,  using  soil  similar  to  that  in  which  the  seeds  were  sown.  Stand 
them  in  a  house  or  pit  near  the  glass,  in  a  temperature  of  50°,  and 
admit  sufficient  air  to  prevent  them  becoming  tall  and  weak.  As  the 
pots  are  filled  with  roots  move  the  plants  into  others,  3  inches  in 
diameter,  using  the  same  compost  in  not  quite  such  a  fine  state. 
Encourage  growth,  but  do  not  pinch  the  shoots  unless  the  plants  are 
intended  for  specimens.  This  is  not  often  the  case  with  seedling  plants, 
the  principal  object  being  to  get  them  into  flower  as  soon  as  possible  in 
order  to  ascertain  if  there  are  any  worthy  of  retention.  All  that  are 
inferior  to  existing  varieties  should  be  destroyed.  Five  or  6-inch  pots 
will  be  large  enough  to  keep  them  in  till  they  flower. 
There  are  few  plants  that  can  be  increased  by  cuttings  more  readily 
than  Pelargoniums.  Every  properly  matured  joint  or  a  bud  with  a  leaf 
will  usually  form  a  plant,  but  cuttings  made  from  the  shoots  in  a 
moderately  firm  condition  are  more  generally  employed.  Shoots  with 
two  or  three  joints  ought  to  be  taken  early  in  spring,  and  four  inserted 
round  the  edge  of  a  4-inch  pot  filled  with  two  parts  loam  to  one  each  of 
leaf  mould  and  sand.  Let  these  be  accommodated  in  a  temperature  of 
50°  where  they  will  root  freely.  They  mast  be  neither  too  close  nor 
receive  too  much  water,  as  they  are  liable  to  damp  off  under  such  con¬ 
ditions.  When  they  are  well  rooted  move  them  into  thoroughly  drained 
4-inch  pots,  using  soil  similar  to  that  in  which  the  cuttings  were  rooted, 
but  with  rather  less  sand. 
When  growth  commences  pinch  out  the  points  in  order  to  induce 
them  to  produce  several  shoots  within  3  or  4  inches  of  the  collar  of  the 
plants,  and  as  soon  as  these  are  long  enough  tie  them  to  the  rim 
of  the  pot.  If  this  is  not  done  whilst  they  are  young  there  is  difficulty 
in  getting  them  down  low  enough  without  considerable  danger  of 
breakage.  When  these  shoots  have  made  three  joints  pinch  again  to 
cause  them  to  form  more. 
Compost  and  Training. 
The  final  repotting  for  seedlings,  as  previously  suggested,  should  be 
into  6-inch  pots,  which  will  be  large  enough  for  them  to  flower  in  the 
first  year.  The  compost  for  this  potting  should  be  two  parts  good  fibrous 
loam,  one  part  each  of  leaf  mould  and  well-decayed  cow  manure,  with 
sufficient  sand  to  keep  it  open.  Place  neat  stakes  to  all  plants  requiring 
support.  A  little  liquid  stimulant  will  be  all  they  require  until 
flowering  is  finished,  after  which  stand  the  plants  out  of  doors  in  a  sunny 
position  to  ripen  the  wood,  giving  no  more  water  than  is  necessary  to 
keep  them  from  flagging.  In  about  a  month  the  plants  will  be  ready 
to  cut  back.  Each  shoot  ought  to  be  shortened  to  the  second  eye,  the 
plants  placed  in  a  frame  or  pit,  and  kept  a  little  close  and  dry  until 
growth  has  recommenced. 
To  induce  this  syringe  every  warm  afternoon,  but  do  not  apply  water 
to  the  roots  until  they  have  well  started,  or  they  may  quickly  suffer. 
When  the  shoots  are  an  inch  or  so  in  length  turn  the  plants  out  of  their 
p  )ts,  and  shake  off  most  of  the  old  ball,  trimming  the  straggling  roots  a 
little,  and  replace  the  plants  in  pots  two  sizes  smaller  than  those  which 
they  previously  occupied.  The  compost  for  this  potting  should  be  two 
puts  good  fibrous  loam, one  part  leaf  mould,  with  a  little  decayed  manure 
and  silver  Band.  The  potting  should  be  done  lightly,  while  watering 
must  be  very  carefully  looked  to. 
Keep  the  plants  near  the  light,  and  sufficiently  far  apart  to  prevent 
their  becoming  drawn.  As  the  shoots  get  long  enough  secure  them 
down  to  the  rim  of  t*he  pot.  They  should  be  wintered  ia  a  good  light 
houBe,  and  be  placed  near  the  glass,  the  night  temperature  being  as 
nearly  as  possible  45°,  with  air  given  on  all  mild  days.  Cold  currents 
must  be  allowed  to  pass  through  the  plants.  No  more  water  than  is 
necessary  to  keep  the  soil  from  getting  too  dry  should  be  given  in  the 
winter.  Stop  the  shoots  about  the  end  of  October,  and  as  soon  as  they 
have  made  an  inch  or  two  of  growth  move  them  into  their  flowering  pots 
The  size  of  the  plants  will  be  a  guide  as  to  the  size  of  the  pou  required. 
Those  in  4-inch  pots,  with  from  six  to  ten  shoots,  do  well  in  7-inch  pots, 
and  so  on  in  proportion,  bearing  in  mind  the  vigour  of  the  plants.  The 
compost  for  this  potting  should  be  three  parts  good  loam,  one  of  well 
decomposed  manure,  with  a  4-inch  potful  of  any  well-known  artificial 
manure  to  each  3  bushels  of  the  compost.  The  potting  muBt  be  very  firm. 
If  the  compost  is  not  wet  it  is  impossible  to  pot  them  too  hard,  except 
in  weak  and  short  growing  varieties,  which  should  be  potted  rather 
lightly.  As  growth  advances  tie  out  the  shoots,  so  as  to  keep  them  open 
and  exposed  to  the  light.  If  they  are  required  to  flower  early  they 
should  not  be  stopped  again,  but  if  not  desired  until  June,  they  may  be 
stopped  in  February.  As  the  days  get  longer  they  should  be  encouraged 
to  make  both  root  and  top  growth  by  closing  the  house  early  in  the 
afternoon  while  the  sun  is  shining  upon  it ;  and  as  soon  as  the  flower 
buds  are  formed,  assist  them  by  the  use  of  liquid  manure  once  a  week. 
About  half  an  ounce  of  guano  to  2  gallons  of  water  will  be  strong  enough 
to  start  with,  then  increase  the  guano  to  1  oz.  to  2  gallons  of  water. 
As  the  weather  gets  warmer  green  fly  is  almost  sure  to  make  its 
appearance.  As  soon  as  it  i$  discovered  fumigate  the  plants,  and  be 
very  particular  to  see  that  the  plants  are  quite  free  from  insects  before 
the  first  flower  buds  open.  If  fumigating  has  to  be  resorted  to  when 
the  plants  are  in  bloom  nearly  all  the  open  flowers  will  fall.  After  the 
plants  have  done  flowering  they  may  be  stood  out  in  the  open  air,  as 
previously  advised,  to  harden  them.  When  the  wood  is  firm  and  ripe 
they  can  be  cut  down  and  treated  as  already  described. 
Cuttings  can  be  made  from  the  shoots  taken  off  at  this  time,  and  if 
sufficiently  early,  say  the  beginning  of  August,  they  will  root  freely  in 
the  open  air  in  a  bed  made  up  of  sand  and  loam.  If  on  a  slight 
bottom  heat  they  will  root  all  the  quicker,  but  in  the  open  air  there 
is  not  so  much  loss  through  damping.  When  well  rooted  place  them 
singly  in  3-inch  pots,  in  which  they  may  remain  until  atter  Christmas, 
when  they  can  be  transferred  to  others  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  be 
treated  as  advised  for  the  spring-rooted  plants. 
Selection  of  Varieties. 
The  following  is  a  short  list  of  what  1  consider  the  best  varieties 
Albert  Victor,  rich  rose,  edged  white  ;  Champion,  white,  shaded  blush, 
lake  blotch  on  lower  petals,  immense  trusses,  and  fine  habit ;  Countess, 
