April  16,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
325 
Forcing  Lilac. 
I  should  like  to  call  attention  to  the  Lilac,  that  delicious  pink-and- 
white  flowered  shrub  which  produces  such  a  charming  effect  in  the 
conservatory  early  in  the  year,  and  affords  delightful  sprays  for  cutting. 
Forcing  Lilac  is  very  easy  to  manage.  A  number  of  plants,  taken  up 
carefully,  and  well  potted,  about  Christmas,  will  if  placed  in  a  vinery 
previously  started  and  duly  syringed,  commence  flowering  in  a  month  or 
little  more.  After  their  beauty  is  over,  they  should  be  gradually  pre¬ 
pared  for  planting  in  the  open  ground,  not  be  forced  again  for  two  years. 
— Improver. 
[This  correspondent  asks  us  to  “  excuse  his  writing,  as  it  has  been 
neglected  of  late.”  Admitted  “  neglect  ”  is  inexcusable.  We  insert  a 
portion  of  his  communication  for  the  purpose  of  saying  to  all  whom  the 
remarks  may  concern,  that  negligent  young  men  who  plead  for  excuses 
cannot  hope  to  obtain  good  positions  in  the  gardening  world.  This 
“  Improver”  has  need  to  improve  very  considerably,  and  if  he  is  a  man 
of  mettle  he  will  at  once  commence  and  pursue  diligently  a  course  of  self- 
education.] 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — Directly  the  stoning  is  complete  the  fruit  com¬ 
mences  colouring  and  takes  its  swelling  for  ripening.  The  temperature 
may  now  be  raised,  but  it  must  not  exceed  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and  65° 
by  day  from  artificial  means,  with  a  little  ventilation  constantly, 
increasing  it  at  70°,  and,  subject  to  the  “  crack  ”  of  air  at  the  top  of  the 
house,  close  at  that  temperature.  The  heat,  however,  must  not  be 
allowed  to  exceed  that  degree  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  without  full 
ventilation,  for  ripening  Cherries  are  very  liable  to  crack  in  a  close 
moist  atmosphere.  From  the  commencement  of  colouring  until  the  trees 
are  cleared  of  their  fruits  syringing  must  cease,  or  the  fruit  will  split 
and  be  spoiled,  but  a  good  moisture  should  be  maintained  in  the  house 
by  keeping  the  surface  of  the  border  moistened  as  it  becomes  dry,  or  if 
the  trees  are  in  pots  sprinkling  the  floor  two  or  three  times  a  day, 
avoiding,  however,  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  Aphides  must  be  kept  under 
by  an  insecticide,  but  fumigation  only  can  be  had  recourse  to  after  the 
fruit  commences  ripening.  The  border  must  not  lack  moisture,  and 
liquid  manure  should  be  liberally  accorded  to  trees  in  pots. 
Cucumbers. — Shading  may  be  necessary  in  the  middle  of  the  day 
for  an  hour  or  two  in  bright  weather  to  prevent  flagging,  but  with  the 
plants  healthy  and  the  roots  abundant  very  little  will  be  necessary, 
always  provided  they  are  properly  supplied  with  water  and  nutrition, 
and  free  from  eel  worm.  In  case  the  plants  flag  without  apparent  cause 
examine  the  roots,  and  if  found  at  all  knotty  or  swollen  in  parts  apply 
a  solution  of  soluble  phenyle,  1  gill  (quarter  pint)  to  3  gallons  of  water, 
giving  a  similar  amount  as  in  an  ordinary  watering.  This  will  check 
the  eelworm  and  prove  beneficial  to  the  plants  as  manure.  Water  plants 
in  houses  abundantly,  but  only  when  required,  keeping  plenty  of  moisture 
in  the  atmosphere  all  day  by  frequent  damping,  Byringing  the  plants 
both  ways  about  3.30  P.M.,  closing  the  house  at  the  same  time.  To 
secure  tender  crisp  fruit  maintain  a  Dight  temperature  of  65°  to  70°, 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  an  increase 
to  100°  will  not  do  any  harm  after  closing.  To  secure  straight  fruit  employ 
glass  tubes. 
In  watering  plants  in  pits  and  frames  do  it  early  in  the  afternoon,  so 
as  to  get  the  foliage  dry  before  nightfall.  Maintain  a  good  bottom  heat 
by  linings  renewed  as  required.  Ventilate  early  and  moderately,  hus¬ 
banding  the  sun  heat  by  early  closing,  and  employ  a  thick  night  cover¬ 
ing  over  the  lights.  Avoid  overcrowding,  keeping  the  shoots  stopped  to 
one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  and  remove  bad  leaves  as  they  appear.  Keep 
young  plants  near  the  glass,  sow  seed  for  raising  plants  to  occupy  frames 
after  forced  vegetables  or  bedding  plants  are  removed.  Wireworms  are 
sometimes  troublesome,  coming  in  with  the  turf,  and  as  its  grass  is  dead 
they  are  usually  ravenous.  They  cannot  resist  baits  of  Carrot,  Turnip, 
Mangold  Wurtzel,  or  Potato  cut  into  thick  slice's  and  inserted  in  the  soil 
a  couple  of  inches,  examining  the  baits  every  morning.  Millipedes  and 
woodlice  are  equally  fond  of  these  vegetables,  though  woodlice  prefer 
boiled  Potato  wrapped  in  a  little  hay,  examining  them  daily. 
Figs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — Ventilation  must  be  increased 
when  the  fruit  shows  signs  of  ripening,  and  exposure  to  the  sun  greatly 
enhances  the  flavour.  Many  fruits,  however,  cannot  have  full  exposure 
to  the  sun,  but  judicious  pinching,  thinning,  and  tying  the  branches 
admit  of  their  receiving  a  fair  amount,  and  light,  with  a  free  circulation 
of  air  and  freedom  from  water,  is  absolutely  essential  to  well-flavoured 
Figs.  This  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  greatly  encourages  the  Fig  tree’s 
worst  enemy — red  spider.  It  does  not  make  much  progress  under  good 
syringing,  but  when  the  atmospheric  moisture  is  reduced  its  spread  is 
something  remarkable,  therefore  no  effort  should  be  spared  to  have  the 
foliage  clean  up  to  ripening  time. 
Brown  scale  also  spreads  rapidly  over  the  young  shoots,  and  extends 
to  the  leaves  and  fruits*  There  is  nothing  like  contesting  the  advance  of 
these  pests  on  tbeif  first  appearance.  A  little  soapy  water  applied  with 
a  sponge  to  the  first  specks  of  red  Spider  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves, 
and  the  young  scale  dislocated  by  a  brush  dipped  in  a  softsoap  solution, 
1  oz.  to  a  quart  of  water,  saves  much  after  trouble,  but  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  injure  the  fruit,  which  is  extremely  tender.  Supplies  of 
water  at  the  roots  are  needed  through  all  stages,  yet  less  when  the  fruit 
is  ripening  than  during  its  swelling.  Figs  for  home  use  should  be  ripe 
when  taken  from  the  trees,  those  for  sending  away  must  be  gathered 
before  they  are  fully  ripe.  Increase  the  ventilation  at  70°,  affording  air 
constantly  during  the  period  of  ripening.  Day  temperature  80°  to  85° 
from  sun  heat,  and  night  temperature  60°  to  65°. 
Succession  Houses. — Trees  in  inside  borders  will  need  abundant 
supplies  of  water,  and  those  in  narrow  borders  and  carrying  heavy  crops 
of  fruit  require  liquid  manure,  with  rich  surface  dressings.  Attend 
frequently  to  tying-in,  thinning,  and  stopping  the  shoots  at  about  the 
fifth  leaf  of  such  as  are  required  to  form  spurs,  and  avoid  overcrowding 
tbe  shoots.  Maiutain  a  night  temperature,  after  the  leaves  become  full 
sized,  of  60°  to  65°,  and  70°  by  day,  allowing  a  rise  to  80°  or  85°  from 
sun  heat,  ventilating  from  70°,  closing  at  80°,  so  as  to  rise  5°  or  10° 
afterwards. 
Late  Houses. — The  trees  in  these  require  syringing  on  fine  days 
sufficiently  early  to  allow  of  their  becoming  dry  before  night.  Venti¬ 
late  in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  Strive  to  secure  solid  growths,  and 
close  early  in  the  afternoon  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture  where 
there  is  means  of  excluding  frost,  but  in  unheated  houses  afford  moderate 
moisture  only. 
Melons. — Secure  every  ray  of  light  to  plants  swelling  their  fruits 
by  keeping  .the  glass  clean,  and  supply  water  liberally  to  the  roots,  or 
liquid  manure,  providing  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture.  Overcropping 
not  only  renders  the  fruit  small  but  prejudices  the  quality,  which  is 
proportionate  to  the  amount  of  solidified  matter  and  its  transformation 
in  ripening.  This  is  best  effected  by  a  somewhat  dry  and  warm  atmo¬ 
sphere,  with  diminished  supplies  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  there  must 
not  be  any  deficiency  until  the  fruit  commences  ripening,  and  not  then 
if  the  plants  are  to  continue  for  a  second  crop.  A  little  air  constantly 
will  keep  the  fruit  steadily  ripening.  During  the  setting  of  the  fruits  a 
drier  condition  of  the  atmosphere  and  soil  is  advisable,  but  the  soil  must 
not  become  so  dry  as  to  cause  the  foliage  to  flag.  Attend  daily  to  setting 
the  flowers,  stopping  the  growths  as  the  flowers  are  fertilised.  Keep  the 
temperature  at  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and 
between  80°  and  90°  with  sun  heat,  ventilating  carefully  at  all  times, 
avoiding  sudden  fluctuations  in  the  moisture  and  of  temperature. 
Plants  in  pits  and  frames  are  showing  fruit,  and  unless  they  are 
sufficiently  numerous  to  insure  two  to  four  fruits  on  a  plant  setting 
about  the  same  time,  it  is  advisable  to  remove  the  first  flowers,  as  with 
more  shoots  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  securing  five  or  six  female 
blossoms  of  simultaneous  growth  on  each  plant,  which  should  be 
fertilised.  Maintain  good  linings,  bottom  heat,  and  a  dry  condition  of 
tbe  atmosphere  when  the  fruit  is  setting.  After  the  fruits  are  set  let 
them  be  raised  on  a  flower  pot,  with  a  slate  intervening,  above  the 
foliage.  Earth  up  the  plants  as  they  advance  in  growth,  having  this 
effected  before  the  fruit  is  set,  as  it  cannot  well  be  attended  to  after¬ 
wards  in  frames.  Make  new  beds  and  put  out  plants,  sowing,  potting, 
and  otherwise  preparing  for  planting  successional  beds. 
Fines. — Young  plants  in  course  of  preparation  for  fruiting  often 
become  soft,  drawn,  and  weakly  in  growth  through  a  close,  moist  atmo¬ 
sphere  and  high  temperature.  This  should  be  carefully  avoided  by 
dispensing  with  fire  heat  as  much  as  possible,  relying  for  robust  growth 
and  a  sturdy  habit  on  sun  heat.  Maintain  tbe  temperature  at  60°  to  65° 
at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially.  This  is  sufficient  to  sustain 
the  plants  in  steady  progress.  Commence  ventilating  at  75°,  gradually 
iucreasing  it  with  the  temperature  to  85°,  keeping  it  through  the  day  at 
85°,  90°,  or  95°  from  sun  heat,  with  abundance  of  air.  Close  at  85°, 
but  not  so  as  to  greatly  raise  the  temperature,  for  however  beneficial 
this  may  be  to  plants  swelling  their  fruits  it  causes  attenuated  growth 
in  young  plants.  Sprinkle  the  paths  and  walls  at  closing  time,  and 
syringe  the  plants  lightly  about  twice  a  week.  Examine  each  plant 
before  water  is  given,  and  when  needed  supply  sufficient  to  moisten  the 
soil  down  to  the  drainage. 
Plants  swelling  their  fruit  are  assisted  by  judicious  applications  of 
liquid  manure,  to  be  withheld  when  ripening  commences.  Stake  the 
fruit  to  keep  it  in  an  erect  position.  When  the  suckers  of  fruiting 
plants  become  large  enough  screw  out  the  hearts  of  those  not  required 
for  stock  ;  one,  or  at  the  most  two,  should  be  retained  on  a  plant.  The 
temperature  should  range  in  fruiting  houses  from  70°  to  75°  at  night, 
and  80°  to  95°  by  day.  As  the  fruit  ripens  the  plants  may  be  removed 
to  a  cooler  house,  and  the  fruit  will  then  keep  sound  for  a  lengthened 
period,  longer,  indeed,  at  this  time  of  year  than  any  other. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus. — Where  the  beds  were  not  kept  saturated  and  cold  by 
a  heavy  covering  of  manure,  shoots  have  started  early  and  strongly. 
Hovering  straw  or  strawy  litter  over  these  early  shoots  saves  them  from 
spring  frosts,  which  have  already  done  much  harm  to  those  unprotected. 
Net  having  been  dressed  with  manure  a  heavy  surfacing  of  either 
manure  or  common  salt,  using  enough  to  whiten  the  surface,  may  well 
be  applied  after  just  loosening  the  ground  with  a  fork.  This  will  act  as 
a  manure  to  the  Asparagus  and  destroy  the  weeds.  Those  beds  heavily 
mulcted  during  the  winter  should  have  all  the  more  flaky  portions  of 
the  manure  removed,  a  surfacing  of  short  manure  doing  good  in  the 
direction  of  keeping  down  weeds  and  conserving  moisture  during,  the 
summer.  If  clayey  soil  were  mulched  during  the  winter  and  recently 
cleared  of  the  manure,  it  will  have  already  run  together  badly  after  the 
