326 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  15,  1897. 
rains,  and  dressing  with  salt  only  aggravates  the  evil.  In  all  probability 
it  is  already  rich  enough,  and  in  any  case  a  dressing  of  fish  manure, 
guano,  or  soot  is  preferable  to  salt,  Salt  to  be  applied  as  a  last  resort 
against  weeds. 
Planting  Asparagus. — After  top  growth  has  commenced  is  the  best 
time  to  plant  Asparagus  roots.  The  more  forward  shoots  may  be  1  foot 
long  when  the  plants  are  moved,  and  fewer  failures  take  place  than  is 
the  case  when  transplanting  is  done  before  top  and  root  growth  has 
commenced.  Avoid  any  undue  exposure  of  the  roots  to  cold  winds  and 
sunshine,  the  planting  being  best  done  in  dull  showery  weather,  though 
not  if  the  ground  is  in  a  wet  state.  A  deep,  moderately  rich,  free 
working  soil,  and  well-drained  site  suits  Asparagus,  and  under  these 
conditions  no  extra  expense  need  be  incurred  in  making  special 
preparations.  Should  the  site  be  somewhat  cold  and  none  too  well 
drained,  and  the  soil  of  a  clayey  nature,  then  a  free  addition  of  decayed 
manure,  leaf  soil,  “  burn  bake  ”  sand,  and  fine  mortar  rubbish  should  be 
made  to  the  soil,  and  raised  beds  also  be  formed.  The  larger  bads  may 
be  from  4  feet  to  5  feet  wide  for  three  rows  of  plants,  or  only  B  feet 
wide  for  two  rows  of  plants,  with  1  foot  or  wider  alleys  between  them. 
Dispose  the  outer  rows  of  plants  not  less  than  9  inches  from  the  edges, 
and  in  all  cases  from  15  inches  to  18  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  allowing 
the  greater  distance  on  strong  ground.  Open  wide  holes  with  slightly 
raised  centres  for  each  plant,  spreading  the  roots  out  naturally,  and 
covering  with  8  inches  ot  good  fine  soil.  Two-year  and  three-year-old 
plants  are  supplied  by  nurserymen,  but  in  neither  case  ought  any  shoots 
to  be  cut  the  first  year,  and  few,  if  any,  during  the  second  season  after 
planting.  Cutting  from  young  plants  weakens  them  seriously,  and  they 
are  slow  in  attaining  a  really  serviceable  size  accordingly.  No  salt 
should  be  applied  to  newly  planted  Asparagus,  as  there  is  a  risk  of 
injury  to  the  broken  roots, 
Sowing  Asparagus  Seed. — Now  is  a  good  time  to  sow  Asparagus 
seed.  Toe  plants  may  be  either  raised  where  they  are  to  remain,  the 
beds  being  prepared  as  advised  for  plants,  or  they  can  be  raised  on  the 
level,  and  transplanted  in  the  following  season.  Open  shallow  drills, 
and  sow  thinly.  Nearly  every  seed  will  germinate,  and  if  sown  thickly 
much  early  thinning-out  of  seedlings  will  be  necessary. 
Beet.— -It  is  yet  early  to  sow  the  main  crop  of  Beet,  especially  where 
the  roots  are  liable  to  become  coarse.  For  an  early  supply  sow  a  long 
row,  or  several  short  rows,  of  the  Turnip-rooted  variety  in  a  warm 
position.  Sow  thinly  in  drills  1  inch  deep. 
Carrots  — For  the  successional  supplies  sow  a  good  stump-rooted 
or  Horn  variety  on  a  warm  border  in  shallow  drills  9  inches  apart.  The 
roots  obtained  in  this  way  ought  to  be  ready  for  use  by  the  time  the 
crops  in  frames  are  exhausted.  The  main  crop  may  also  be  sown  during 
the  first  fortnight  in  April.  Carrots  should  have  a  freely  worked  soil, 
sandy  from  choice,  req  uiring  no  manure  if  plenty  were  dug-in  for  preceding 
crop  of  a  surface-rooting  nature.  Nantes  Horn  and  Intermediate  keep 
fairly  well,  but  are  not  available  so  late  in  the  season  as  Altrincham 
and  Long  Surrey.  For  the  first  named  the  drills  may  be  9  inches  apart, 
12  inches  sufficing  for  the  rest.  Open  shallow  drills,  and  lightly  dust 
wood  ashes  along  these  as  a  preventive  of  maggot.  If  the  seed  cling 
together  well  mix  it  with  sand,  or  otherwise  it  will  not  be  possible  to 
distribute  it  regularly  and  thinly. 
Chicory,  Salsafy,  and  Scorzonera. — Ground  previously  occupied 
by  any  member  of  the  Brassica  family,  for  which  manure  was  freely  dug 
in,  or  even  by  Potatoes,  only  requires  to  be  deeply  dug  and  got  into  a 
finely  divided  state  for  either  of  these  three  crops.  What  are  desired  in 
the  case  of  Salsafy  and  Scorzonera  are  long,  straight,  quickly  grown 
roots,  but  if  they  come  into  contact  with  manure  forking  is  liable  to 
take  place.  Should  it  be  thought  advisable,  therefore,  to  apply  solid 
manure  let  it  be  dug  in  deeply.  Draw  shallow  drills  12  inches  apart, 
and  avoid  thick  sowing,  especially  in  the  case  of  the  comparatively 
small  seeded  Chicory. 
Turnips. — To  be  good  these  must  grow  quickly.  Most  failures 
occur  when  hot  and  dry  sites  for  the  rows  are  chosen.  No  better 
position  than  the  freely  manured  clear  spaces  between  young  fruit  trees 
or  bushes  can  be  found  for  Turnips.  Sow  a  pinch  of  Early  Milan,  in 
order  that  there  should  be  no  break  in  the  supply  ;  but  Snowball  and 
Veitch’s  Red  Globe,  if  slower  in  “  bulbing,”  are  by  far  the  best  in  point 
of  quality.  Sow  thinly  in  shallow  drills  15  inches  apart.  In  showery 
weather  the  seed  germinates  quickly,  and  directly  the  seedlings  push 
through  the  soil  dust  them  over  with  soot  and  lime  as  a  preventive  of 
attack  by  either  birds  or  flea.  Those  more  advanced  to  be  similarly 
treated  occasionally,  and  also  be  lightly  thinned  out  where  crowded. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Solanums.— Plants  that  were  cut  hard  back  and  have  broken  freely 
Bhould  have  half  the  soil  removed  from  the  roots  and  be  placed  again  in 
the  same  size  pots.  For  the  present  grow  them  in  a  vinery  at  work,  and 
pinch  any  shoots  that  are  taking  the  lead.  Watch  for  aphides  and 
destroy  them  at  once  if  they  make  their  appearance.  These  plants  grow 
well  in  loam,  sand,  and  one-seventh  of  decayed  manure. 
Primula  obconlca.— Plants  intended  to  produce  seed  should  be 
placed  where  they  can  enjoy  abundance  of  air  when  the  weather  is 
favourable.  Young  plants  in  thumb  pots  ought  to  be  grown  on  a  moist 
base  where  they  can  be  shaded.  When  exposed  to  bright  sunshine 
the  foliage  assumes  a  sickly  hue  and  the  plants  become  a  prey  to  red 
spider. 
Chrysanthemums.— Early  flowering  kinds  should,  if  room  can  be 
found  for  them,  be  placed  in  the  pots  in  which  they  are  to  flower.  They 
must  be  properly  hardened  before  potting,  and  then  placed  carefully 
outside  where  they  can  be  sheltered  from  rough  winds  and  frost.  Plants 
that  have  been  recently  rooted,  and  are  well  established  in  small  pots, 
should  be  placed  into  5-inch  without  delay.  These  plants  are  often  run 
up  weakly  by  keeping  them  in  a  close  confined  atmosphere  in  their  early 
stages.  Cuttings  may  still  be  inserted  for  providing  plants  for  decorative 
purposes. 
Francoas. — These  are  most  useful  for  furnishing  in  5  and  6-inch 
pots,  and  for  these  sizes  it  is  a  good  plan  to  raise  the  plants  from  seed 
annually.  The  smallest  plants  from  last  year’s  seedlings  may  be  potted 
for  another  year.  The  remainder  may  be  divided  into  two  sizes,  and 
brought  into  flower  at  different  times.  If  the  largest  are  placed  in  a 
temperature  qf  45°  to  50°  they  will  soon  produce  flower  spikes,  while 
the  others  should  be  kept  cool.  Seed  may  be  sown  at  the  present  time 
if  this  has  not  already  been  done. 
Carnation  Miss  Jolifife. — If  cuttings  of  these  have  been  inserted 
together  in  pots  or  pans,  pot  them  singly  directly  they  are  rooted ; 
2^-inch  pots  will  be  large  enough.  As  soon  as  they  are  established 
gradually  harden  the  plants  to  cool  treatment.  Carnations  are  soon 
spoiled  if  kept  in  heat.  Cuttings  of  these  and  tree  kinds  may  still 
be  rooted.  Strong  plants  for  flowering  under  glass  should  be  finally 
potted. 
.Amaryllis. — As  plants  go  out  of  flower  place  them  in  a  light  house, 
not  too  warm,  where  air  can  be  afforded  daily  to  insure  sturdy  foliage. 
Growth  must  be  well  developed,  well  ripened,  and  the  plants  thoroughly 
rested,  then  they  will  be  certain  to  flower  profusely.  These  plants  are 
so  easily  raised  from  seed  that  if  a  few  good  varieties  are  obtained  a 
stock  of  seedlings  may  soon  be  had,  many  of  which  will  be  equal  to 
named  kinds. 
Double  Primulas. — Plants  that  have  been  kept  somewhat  dry  may 
have  the  iower  leaves  removed  and  the  stems  covered  with  light  soil. 
If  kept  moist  after  this  they  will  soon  emit  roots  near  the  collar,  when 
each  portion  may  be  taken  off  and  potted.  It  is  a  mistake  to  place  the 
plants  in  brisk  heat  to  hasten  the  process  of  rooting,  for  this  induces 
damping. 
Salvia  gesnerseflora. — This  is  a  very  showy  plant  for  this  period 
of  the  year ;  cuttings  may  still  be  rooted.  If  large  plants  are  needed 
shorten  back  those  which  have  flowered  in  6  or  7-inch  pots,  and  place 
them  in  10-inch,  or  an  even  larger  size,  when  they  will  make  specimens 
5  or  6  feet  high,  and  fully  3  feet  through,  almost  perfect  pyramids, 
during  the  season. 
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dE  BEE-KEEPERS 
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Best  Hives  for  Wintering. 
In  an  apiary  where  there  are  numerous  stocks  of  bees  in  hives 
of  various  patterns,  some  of  which  are  single-walled,  others 
double-cased  with  an  air  space  at  the  sides,  some  again  packed  with 
chaff  or  cork  dust,  the  bee-keeper  has  an  opportunity  to  ascertain 
which  is  the  best  hive  for  wintering  purposes.  It  may  appear 
strange  to  those  who  have  not  experimented  on  the  above  lines  to 
be  now  told  that  there  is  really  little  difference,  taking  one  aeason 
with  another,  between  the  different  hives  above  mentioned. 
One  spring  a  double-cased  hive  placed  in  a  south  aspect  may 
be  found  on  examination  to  be  extra  strong  in  bees,  and  other¬ 
wise  in  good  condition.  The  following  season  a  colony  wintered 
in  a  single- walled  hive  having  a  west  aspect  will  be  found  to  be 
superior  to  all  others.  At  the  present  time  the  strongest  stock  in 
my  apiary  has  been  wintered  in  a  double-cased  hive  having  an  open 
air  space  round  the  sides,  and  is  facing  due  east. 
This  is  doubtless  the  experience  of  other  bee-keepers  who  have 
paid  close  attention  to  their  bees.  Why  such  is  the  case  it  is 
difficult  to  say,  for  according  to  theory  those  bees  having  a 
southern  aspect,  and  also  having  the  advantage  of  a  warm  corner, 
should  invariably  be  the  belt.  But  that  such  is  not  the  case  I  have 
proved  times  out  of  number.  Although  different  hives  have  been 
of  equal  strength  in  bees,  which  have  been  requeened  on  the  same 
date,  the  queens  being  reared  from  brood  taken  from  a  prolific 
queen,  and  the  colonies  afterwards  fed  up  for  winter  with  the 
same  weight  of  syrup  to  each,  when  examined  six  months  after¬ 
wards  some  stocks  will  be  found  to  have  many  more  bees,  and  be 
in  a  much  better  condition  than  the  others. 
I  am  inclined  to  think  the  cause  of  this  is 
Late  Breeding  in  Autumn. 
If  bees  have  an  extra  «upply  of  stores  in  the  autumn,  and  the 
weather  is  fine,  some  queens  will  continue  laying  until  the  end  of 
September  or  even  later.  The  bees  hatched  at  that  season  are  the 
workers  of  early  spring,  as  they  will  not  die  off  like  the  old  worn 
out  bees. 
But  should  a  queen  continue  laying  until  late  in  the  autumn, 
and  stores  run  short,  late  breeding  will  not  be  a  success.  The 
young  bees  will  succumb  on  the  firit  approach  of  severe  weather, 
and  if  they  should  by  chance  survive  the  winter  they  will  be  found 
in  an  unsatisfactory  condition  the  following  spring. 
