JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  15,  1897. 
228 
Conservatory  at  Grove  Park  {T.  Street ). — A  letter  posted  to 
the  address  you  gave  has  been  returned  by  the  postal  authorities  marked 
“  not  known.”  Can  you  offer  any  explanation  ? 
Calceolaria  Requirements  {S.  E.  2?.).— The  shrubby  or  bedding 
Calceolarias  require  an  open  situation,  as  they  must  have  plenty  of  light 
to  insure  a  sturdy  and  free-flowering  habit.  The  site,  however,  mast 
not  be  hot  and  dry,  as  the  plants  delight  in  moisture,  which  of  coarse 
can  be  s. cured  by  mulching  with  short  unobjectionable  material,  or 
cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  and  supplying  water  in  droughty  weather,  but 
not  over  the  flowers,  as  these  are  soon  injured  by  wet.  Shelter  is  also 
necessary,  the  force  of  winds  doing  injury  to  the  somewhat  brittle 
plants. 
Tomato  Xieaf-rlbs  Rusted  {Tomatoes). — Beyond  the  “  rust  ”  on 
the  midribs  we  failed  to  find  anything  amiss  with  the  leaves.  We 
examined  them  in  every  possible  way,  but  did  not  discover  any  fungus 
or  other  body  likely  to  cause  the  rust,  which  is  purely  mineral  matter, 
or  extravasated  sap  oxidised.  Thus  the  cells  have  been  disorganised  or 
ruptured,  and  the  rust  appears,  followed  by  the  leaves  curling  as  growth 
has  ceased  at  that  part.  What  is  the  cause  of  extravasation  remains 
unexplained,  but  it  usually  arises  through  a  sudden  check  to  growth, 
followed  by  a  rush  of  sap  and  exudation  of  matter.  It  is  common  on 
Potatoes  in  fields,  and  not  much  less  so  on  Tomatoes  under  glass  in 
certain  seasons;  seldom  being  attended  by  any  serious  consequences  to 
the  plants,  though  disfiguring  them.  Indeed,  it  often  means  great 
fertility  and  high-class  produce.  The  white  matter  appears  to  be  lime, 
which  requires  for  its  utilisation  a  corresponding  amount  of  potash  ; 
therefore,  we  should  employ  a  dressing  of  bone  superphosphate,  three 
parts  or  pounds,  nitrate  of  potash  (crushed)  two  parts  or  pounds,  and 
kainit  one  part  or  pound,  mixed,  using  2  to  4  ozs.  per  square  yard, 
watering  in  moderately,  and  employing  at  intervals  of  about  three 
weeks.  We  have  found  this  useful  under  similar  circumstances,  the 
thing  being  not  to  apply  it  excessively  so  as  to  injure  the  roots  or  induce 
too  luxuriant  growth.  It  is  a  good  all-round  plant  food,  and  has  a 
tendency  to  fortify  the  plant  against  its  fungoid  enemies. 
Eplphyllum  Falling'  (M.  F.). — It  is  a  great  pleasure  to  us  to 
assist  amateurs  as  well  as  gardeners  wherever  we  can  do  so,  and  no  one 
need  hesitate  to  ask  for  information  on  any  gardening  subject  at  any 
time.  When  Epiphyllums  get  old  they  are  prone  to  fail  by  canker  near 
the  soil,  especially  when  raised  from  cuttings,  but  less  so  when  estab¬ 
lished  by  grafting  on  the  Pereskia  stock.  It  may  be  your  old  plant  is 
irrecoverable.  If  the  stem  is  cankered  the  supply  of  nutriment  would 
be  arrested,  shrivelling  of  the  growths  following  as  a  natural  conse¬ 
quence.  They  would  shrivel  also  if  the  soil  was  by  accident  allowed  to 
become  either  too  dry,  and  long  remain  so,  or  too  wet,  as  in  one  case 
the  roots  would  perish  by  shrivelling  and  the  other  by  decaying.  Care¬ 
fully  examine  the  soil,  and  if  it  is  very  dry  and  shrinking  from  the 
pot  sink  this  over  the  rim  in  a  pail  of  warm  water  for  three  hours.  If, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  soil  is  very  wet  and  pasty,  it  is  probably  sour.  In 
this  case  turn  the  plant  out  of  the  pot,  and  with  a  pointed  stick  remove 
as  much  of  the  sour  soil  as  will  liberate  many  of  the  roots  ;  then  place 
in  a  smaller,  clean,  well-drained  pot,  using  a  mixture  of  six  parts  loam 
and  one  part  each  of  pounded  charcoal' and  old  dry  mortar.  Protect  the 
drainage  with  moss  or  fibre,  and  place  in  sufficient  soil,  which,  when 
pressed  down  rather  firmly,  but  not  made  hard,  will  raise  the  collar  of 
the  plant  on  a  level  with  the  rim  of  the  pot ;  then  work  in  the  fresh 
compost  among  the  roots,  adding  a  little  at  a  time,  so  that  they  may  be 
evenly  distributed  through  it,  pressing  down  as  before,  and  making 
level  half  an  inch  or  more  below  the  top  of  the  pot.  The  soil  must  not 
be  either  decidedly  wet  or  dry  when  used,  but  moist  enough  for  compres¬ 
sion.  Pick  out  some  of  the  old  soil  from  the  stem,  acid  place  round  it  a 
little  crushed  mortar  rubbish  and  charcoal.  Do  not  stand  the  plant  in 
the  sun  nor  give  water  at  once,  but  prevent  evaporation  from  the  stems 
by  spraying  them  occasionally  through  a  vapourising  appliance,  placing 
the  end  in  a  phial  and  the  blow-tube  in  the  mouth.  In  three  or  four 
days  time  give  enough  tepid  water  to  pass  quite  to  the  drainage,  then 
wait  till  the  soil  crumbles  when  rubbed  before  giving  more  in  the  same 
way.  Mere  surface  sprinklings,  giving  “  just  a  little  ”  water  frequently, 
are  worse  than  delusive — namely,  dangerous  in  conducing  to  the  canker 
of  the  stems.  You  are  at  a  disadvantage  in  not  having  proper 
convenience  for  Ep’phyllums.  If  you  can  induce  the  sickly  plant  to 
make  fresh  roots  and  keep  them  growing,  through  good  judgment  in 
watering,  the  stems  will  freshen  ;  if  you  cannot  obtain  active  roots  we 
fear  the  plant  must  die.  We  have  done  all  we  can  to  help  you  to  save 
it.  If  it  should  collapse  you  must  try  and  derive  consolation  in  the 
same  way  as  a  gentleman  once  did  who  had  two  cherished  plants  (not 
Epiphyllums).  They  were  said  to  be  the  only  two  in  Europe,  and  were 
valued  at  £.200  each.  They  were  taken  to  a  continental  show,  at  which 
one  of  them  suddenly  died.  On  our  sympathising  with  the  owner  on 
the  great  loss  incurred  by  the  fatality,  he  took  the  matter  philosophically 
and  said,  “  I  am  sorry  to  lose  the  plant,  of  course,  very  sorry,  but  it 
simply  doubles  the  value  of  the  other  j  its  price  was  £200  yesterday,  it 
is  £400  to-day.”  The  gentleman  ia  living,  and  will  not  forget  the 
circumstance.  Returning  to  the  Epiphyllums,  when  summer  comes  to 
stay,  not  before,  if  the  sickly  plant  recover,  stand  both  in  the  open 
close  to  the  south  side  of  a  wait  or  building,  sinking  the  pots  in  others 
still  larger  to  prevent  the  sun  injuring  the  roots,  also  take  care  that  they 
are  not  allowed  to  suffer  by  lack  of  water  ;  syringe  the  plants  daily  in 
hot  dry  weather,  gradually  reduce  the  water  supply  towards  the 
autumn,  then  place  them  in  a  light  position,  and  keep  the  soil  dry 
rather  than  wet  during  the  winter  months.  Frost  is  fatal  to 
Epiphyllums. 
Spiraeas  Falling  {M.  R.)  — We  sympathise  with  you  in  your 
failure,  which  is  rather  a  prevalent  one  this  season  with  late  plants,  and 
said  to  have  been  caused  by  blight.  We,  however,  have  examined 
several  specimens,  and  not  found  any  animal  or  vegetable  organism  on 
them  or  in  their  tissues.  A  large  grower  attributes  it  to  the  roots  being 
lifted  too  early  in  the  autumn,  the  crowns  not  being  sufficiently  matured, 
but  another  cultivator  found  the  earliest,  second,  and  third  batches  of 
forced  plants  do  well,  whilst  the  fourth  batch,  all  of  the  stock,  potted  at 
the  same  time  and  treated  similarly,  alone  have  failed.  This  makes  the 
subject  very  tantalising  and  unsatisfactory,  yet  we  still  consider  the 
plants  h£ve  been  brought  forward  too  rapidly,  and  that  has  caused  the 
flowering  panicles  to  become  “deaf.” 
Insect  on  Plants  {S.  E.  H.).  —  The  insects  belong  to  the  order 
Hemiptera,  sub-order  Heteroptera,  and  tribe  Lygeic’ae,  which  are 
characterised  by  having  a  small  scutellum,  four-jointed  antennae,  and 
rather  elongated  bodies.  The  species  you  forwarded  is  the  “  Soldier  and 
Sailor,”  Astemma  aptera.  It  is  red  and  black  in  colour  (sometimes 
slatey  grey,  with  red  patches),  and  found  during  summer  running  about 
in  fields  and  gardens,  especially  among  stones  and  rubbish.  They  also 
are  found  on  plants,  and  probably  visit  them  to  suck  the  juices,  the 
insect  having  a  somewhat  long  proboscis  withdrawn  under  the  body 
when  not  in  use.  The  injury  is  done  by  the  insect  pierciDg  the  plant, 
and  causing  the  sap  to  flow  out.  We  have  not,  however,  noticed  that 
it  does  much  barm  to  plants.  Syringing  the  Roses  with  an  insecticide 
would  make  the  foliage  and  shoots  distasteful  to  them,  and  do  good  in 
respect  of  other  insects. 
Gloriosa  superba  (IF.,  Reading)  — This  very  ornamental  liliaceous 
plant  flowers  towards  the  end  of  summer,  its  deep  orange  and  red 
flowers  being  very  effective.  It  grows  about  6  feet  in  height,  and 
requires  supporting,  the  leaves  having  tendril-like  apices.  The  flower 
petals  turn  upwards,  narrow,  deeply  undulate,  and  crispate.  Good 
drainage  is  always  essential,  and  an  open  soil,  composed  of  turfy  loam 
and  fibrous  peat  in  about  equal  proportions,  with  a  free  admixture  of 
sharp  silver  sand.  The  bulbs  should  be  carefully  repotted  in  the  early 
spring,  preferably  in  February,  and  started  in  a  temperature  of  about 
70°  ;  and,  if  convenient,  gentle  bottom  heat.  Water  must  be  given 
carefully  at  first,  and  during  the  summer  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture  are 
necessary,  yet  always  being  careful  not  to  overwater.  A  greenhouse  is 
too  cold  for  the  plants.  As  the  growth  ripens  water  should  be  gradually 
withheld.  During  winter  the  soil  must  be  kept  quite  dry,  and  the  pots 
laid  on  their  sides  in  a  dry  place.  The  plant  is  a  native  of  tropical 
Asia  and  Africa,  cool  treatment,  therefore,  in  the  resting  season  must  be 
specially  avoided  ;  indeed,  the  season  of  growth  and  complete  rest  in  a 
warm  place  are  important  considerations  in  its  culture.  It  requires  a 
stove  or,  better,  a  Cucumber  or  Melon  house,  where  ventilation  is 
practised — not  the  modern,  stew-pan,  system  of  Cucumber  growing. 
The  plant  is  somewhat  slow  growing,  and  impatient  of  root  disturbance 
on  account  of  the  britlleness  of  the  bulb,  yet  should  be  potted  once  a 
year,  offsets  being  taken  off  very  carefully  when  starting  the  bulbs,  as 
they  are  easily  injured  at  other  times. 
Christmas  Roses  {A.  L.  K). — We  have  raised  many  seedlings 
of  Helleborus  niger  by  sowing  the  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe  and  later. 
When  sown  within  a  day  or  two  of  the  time  of  gathering  many  of  them 
have  germinated  the  same  season,  but  those  sown  later  not  till  the 
following  year.  We  sow  in  earthenware  pans  of  sandy  loam  and  leaf 
soil,  covering  lightly,  but  completely,  with  some  of  the  same  sifted. 
A  thorough  watering  is  given  through  a  fine-rosed  can,  and  a  few  hours 
afterwards  the  seeds  are  sown.  The  pans  are  closely  covered  with  glass, 
and  plunged  to  their  rims  in  damp  abhes  in  a  frame  on  the  north  of  a 
wall.  This  is  for  the  purpose  of  securing  uniform  moisture  in  the 
soil,  and  avoiding  the  necessity  for  frequent  surface  sprinklings.  When 
the  seedlings  are  large  enough  they  are  transplanted  an  inch  or  two 
apart  in  boxes,  these  being  kept  in  a  frame  for  a  time  in  the  same  shaded 
position,  and  the  plants  watered  as  needed,  always  before  the  soil 
becomes  decidedly  dry.  When  the  plants  are  fairly  growing  the  sashes 
are,  withdrawn,  as  the  plantB  derive  benefit  from  the  night  dews,  though 
when  quite  young  are  better  if  sheltered  from  drenching  rains.  When 
they  grow  and  touch  each  other  in  the  boxes  they  are  planted  1  foot 
asunder  in  the  open  in  deeply  worked,  free,  generous  soil,  choosing  a 
site  where  the  plants  are  as  far  as  possible  Bhaded  from  the  midday  sun. 
After  the  end  of  the  second  season’s  growth  a  few  flowers  appear.  When 
they  become  fairly  numerous  low  posts  are  driven  down,  and  rails 
attached  to  them  along  the  sides  of  the  border  for  the  purpose  of  sup¬ 
porting  sashes  for  keeping  the  flowers  clean.  Failing  a  sufficiency  of 
these  we  have  protected  them  with  canvas  during  drenching  rains. 
When  the  plants  cover  the  ground  every  alternate  one  is  removed,  soil 
and  manure  being  placed  between  those  which  remain,  and  they 
gradually  form  large  clusters  of  crowns,  and  produce  masses  of  flowers. 
The  plants  removed  are  inserted  in  deep  rich  soil  in  open  spaces  between 
fruit  trees,  or  where  they  can  be  shielded  from  the  scorching  Bun.  The 
fleshy  roots  are  placed  well  down,  not  spread  out  near  the  surface,  which 
is  covered  with  manure,  alike  for  enriching  purposes  and  reducing  evapora¬ 
tion.  Large  individual  clumps  are  worthy  of  protection  by  hand-lights 
or  clochea  when  flowering  commences.  In  deep  rich  soil  and  partial 
shade  the  clumps  may  remain  undisturbed  for  years.  Christmas  Roses 
are  grown  by  the  acre  between  the  lines  of  trees  in  cultivated  fruit 
plantations  in  the  Thames  valley.  They  are  also  grown  in  the  open 
where  the  ground  is  rich  and  deep,  also  moist  in  summer.  When  old 
plants  are  divided  this  is  done  when  flowering  ceases.  Seedlings  may 
be  raised  in  free  soil,  and  a  shaded  position  in  the  open.  We  shall  be 
obliged  by  occasional  notes  as  you  sugges*’,  written  on  one  side  of  the 
paper  only,  for  publication. 
