350 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  22,  1897, 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Disbudding:  Superfluous  Growths  of  Fruit  Trees. — Dis¬ 
budding  is  an  operation  which  requires  to  be  carried  out  more  or  less 
with  all  trained  fruit  trees.  It  is,  however,  with  stone  fruit  trees  on 
walls  that  the  practice  of  disbudding  is  chiefly  concerned.  Apricots, 
Peaches,  and  Nectarines  are  usually  the  most  freely  attended  to  under 
good  management.  Plums,  Cherries,  Apples,  and  Pears  are  not 
generally  so  dependent  on  this  attention,  though  they  are  benefited  by 
the  removal  of  some  growths.  This  is  especially  so  when  the  trees  are 
young  and  in  the  course  of  formation  into  special  shapes.  The  main 
object  of  this  operation  is' to  regulate  growth  and  prevent  overcrowding. 
Energy  is  also  conserved,  and  led  into  a  limited  number  of  channels, 
consisting  of  well-placed  growths  fully  exposed  to  light,  as  it  is  by 
these  means  alone  that  the  best  success  can  be  achieved  with  all  kinds 
of  hardy  fruit  trees. 
Method  of  Disbudding. — The  operation  consists  in  rubbing  or 
breaking  out  the  growths  not  required  when  they  are  an  inch  or  two 
long.  After  they  have  attained  to  a  much  greater  length  they  cannot 
be  removed  without  cutting.  This  is  frequently  necessary  in  the  later 
stages  of  disbudding,  or  when  the  work  has  been  left  beyond  the  proper 
time.  The  tissues  at  the  base  of  the  shoot  become  somewhat  thickened 
and  strengthened,  hence  the  importance  of  early  attention.  Disbudding 
should  always  be  gradually  carried  out,  so  as  to  occasion  no  check.  A 
little  at  a  time  and  frequently  is  the  best  rule  to  follow.  The  weather 
has  some  influence  on  the  work.  More  shoots  may  be  removed  in 
active  growing  weather  than  in  cold  periods. 
Apricots. — As  soon  as  a  number  of  growths  have  advanced 
sufficiently  look  over  the  trees  and  rub  off  the  ill-placed  shoots  first. 
The  whole  of  such  between  the  branch  and  the  wall  may  be  dispensed 
with,  also  those  on  the  lower  side,  reserving  a  selection  emanating 
from  the  upper  sides  for  laying  in  as  successional  wood  for  fruiting. 
Apricots  form  a  number  of  natural  spurs,  which  may  be  permanently 
retained.  Some  of  the  foreright  shoots,  which  have  to  be  removed  to 
prevent  overcrowding,  instead  of  being  cut  out  entirely  may  be 
shortened  at  the  third  leaf  to  form  spurs.  The  leading  growth  of  the 
fruiting  shoot  must  be  left,  eventually  stopping  it  at  the  third  leaf. 
This  growth  is  required  to  draw  sap  to  the  fruit.  One  of  the  well-placed 
shoots  at  the  base  retain  to  take  the  place  of  the  fruiting  shoot  in 
autumn.  Other  suitable  growths  in  various  parts  of  the  trees  may  be 
reserved  if  necessary  for  filling  unoccupied  space,  or  replacing  a  weak, 
ill-nourished  branch. 
Peaches  and  nectarines. — In  the  early  spring  management  of 
these  trees  early  but  light  and  frequent  disbudding  forms  no  inconsider¬ 
able  part.  Young  and  vigorous  trees  need  constant  attention  to  prevent 
the  extension  of  shoots  not  suitably  placed,  first,  for  forming  the  founda¬ 
tion  or  outline ;  second,  the  distribution  equally  and  regularly  of 
fruiting  shoots.  As  Peaches  and  Nectarines  do  not  form  spurs  so 
naturally  or  freely  as  Apricots  fruit  is  borne  principally  on  young  well 
ripened  shoots  of  the  previous  year.  Therefore  a  sufficiency  of  these 
should  be  laid  in.  The  process  is  the  same  as  with  Apricots.  Ill-placed 
growths  are  in  all  cases  removed  first.  Commence  disbudding  at  the 
top  of  the  trees. 
Reserve  the  leading  growth  on  the  fruiting  shoot,  stopping  it  later 
on.  Without  some  foliage  above  or  near  the  fruit  the  latter  cannot  be 
nourished.  A  full  supply  of  successional  shoots  must  be  retained,  one  at 
the  base  of  each  fruiting  branch,  laying  it  in  in  the  desired  direction  as 
it  extends  in  growth.  In  some  cases  two  such  growths  may  be  encou¬ 
raged,  but  this  must  he  regulated  by  the  available  room.  Crowding 
during  growth  is  pernicious.  The  leaves  should  have  full  opportunity 
of  carrying  on  tfle  work  of  assimilation,  and  thus  be  enabled  to  store  up 
material  in  the  buds  for  the  following  year’s  use.  Strong  and  sappy 
growths  starting  from  old  wood  are,  as  a  rule,  not  required,  and  should 
be  rubbed  off  before  they  gain  strength,  and  utilise  energy  which  is 
better  distributed  throughout  the  trees. 
Plums  and  Cherries. — Trees  showing  indications  of  producing  too 
many  shoots  eventually,  for  which  there  will  be  no  room,  ought  to 
receive  a  little  systematic  disbudding  so  as  to  reduce  the  number.  Choose 
for  removal  those  which  are  weak  and  ill  placed,  reserving  the  best 
either  for  extensions  of  young  growths  for  laying  in  at  full  length,  or 
shortening  them  early  at  the  third  good  leaf  to  form  spurs.  Both 
methods  may  be  adopted  with  Plums  and  Sweet  Cherries  trained  on 
walls,  but  the  young  wood  may  not  produce  fruit  until  the  second  or 
third  year.  Short  and  stubby  natural  spurs  must  be  retained  wherever 
possible. 
Apples  and  Pears. — Disbudding  is  specially  beneficial  where  there 
is  a  large  amount  of  growth  produced  among  the  spurs.  Such  growths 
occupy  valuable  space,  and  prevent  light  and  air  reaching  per¬ 
manently  fruitful  spurs.  Well  established  fruitful  trees  do  not  produce 
superfluous  shoots  that  need  removal  by  disbudding  quite  so  readily. 
Young  trees  both  on  walls  and  in  the  open  may  usually  be  improved  by 
a  little  judicious  disbudding,  so  as  to  assist  the  regular  disposal  of  the 
growths  and  secure  shapely  forms  of  trees. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House  — Cease  syring¬ 
ing  the  very  early  varieties — Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  and 
Early  Louise  Peaches  ;  Cardinal,  Advance,  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarines 
— as  soon  as  the  fruits  give  indications  of  ripening.  Do  not  supply  water 
excessively  at  the  roots,  yet  maintain  the  soil  in  a  moist  healthy  con¬ 
dition,  and  afford  moderate  air  moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and 
borders  occasionally.  Hale’s  Early,  Dr.  Hogg,  Dymond,  Stirling  Castle, 
Crimson  Galande,  and  Royal  George  Peaches,  with  Lord  Napier,  Stan- 
wick  Elruge,  Humboldt,  and  Dryden  Nectarines  will  need  liberal 
supplies  of  water,  and  perhaps  nourishment  to  swell  their  fruits  well. 
Where  the  crop  is  too  heavy  thin  the  fruits,  for  it  is  not  the  flesh,  but 
the  stones  that  exhaust  the  trees.  Tie  the  shoots  well  in,  so  as  to  give 
the  fruit  the  benefit  of  all  the  sun  and  air  possible  and  insure  its 
colouring,  drawing  aside  the  leaves  that  shade  it.  Take  every  precau¬ 
tion  to  have  the  foliage  free  from  insects  before  syringing  ceases, 
applying  an  insecticide  if  there  is  any  trace  of  red  spider,  syringing 
forcibly  afterwards. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — Do  not  hurry  the  trees  until  the 
stoniig  is  completed,  making  sure  of  that  by  trying  a  few  fruits  with  a 
knife.  Continue  the  temperature  regular  at  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70° 
to  75°  by  day  until  the  stoning  is  completed  ;  then,  if  the  ripening  is 
desired  to  be  accelerated,  it  maybe  kept  at  70°  to  75°  artificially,  but 
falling  5°  at  night,  and  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°  from  sun 
heat.  Close  sufficiently  early  in  the  afternoon  to  run  the  temperature 
up  to  90°  or  95°,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  syringing  early 
enough  to  have  the  foliage  fairly  dry  before  night,  and  admitting  air 
early,  so  as  to  let  the  pent-up  moisture  escape  before  the  sun  acts 
powerfully  on  the  leaves.  Afford  copious  supplies  of  water  to  the  roots, 
and  liquid  manure  if  necessary,  with  a  light  mulching  of  spent  manure, 
Let  the  fruits  have  all  the  light  possible,  placing  them  with  the  apex  to 
the  light,  drawing  the  leaves  aside  or  shortening  them.  Thin  finally 
directly  the  fruit  has  stoned.  Secure  the  growths  as  they  advance, 
keeping  them  thin.  Pinch  laterals  at  the  first  and  every  leaf,  stopping 
growths  for  next  year’s  bearing  at  about  14  inches,  unless  required  for 
extension. 
Houses  Started  Early  in  February. — With  the  fruits  the  size  of 
Walnuts  the  thinning  should  be  effected  to  a  few  more  than  will  be 
required  for  the  crop.  Encourage  no  more  shoots  than  are  necessary  for 
furnishing  the  trees  with  next  year’s  bearing  wood  and  extension 
growths.  Pinch  the  shoots  retained  to  attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit  at 
two  or  three  joints,  and  to  one  afterwards  as  produced.  Allow  all 
plenty  of  light,  for  the  solidity  of  the  wood  depends  on  the  fibrous 
nature  of  the  roots  and  the  exposure  of  the  growth  to  light.  Ventilate 
early,  commencing  at  65°,  and  increase  it  with  the  sun  heat,  having  it 
full  at  70°  to  75°.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and 
60°  to  65°  by  day  artificially. 
Trees  Started  in  March. — When  the  Peaches  are  fairly  swelling 
remove  the  superfluous  fruits,  beginning  with  those  on  the  back  or  under 
side  of  the  trellis,  then  proceed  with  the  rest  when  it  is  seen  which  take 
the  lead  in  swelling,  removing  those  not  wanted  gradually.  Follow  up 
disbudding  until  the  growths  are  removed  to  the  number  required,  always 
reserving  a  shoot  at  the  base  of  the  current  year’s  bearing  wood,  leaving 
those  on  extensions  15  to  18  inches  apart,  and  allowing  that  distance 
between  the  extensions,  Retain  a  ghoot  on  a  level  with  or  above  the 
fruit,  and,  if  not  wanted  for  extension,  pinch  out  its  point  at  the  third 
leaf,  and  to  every  succeeding  joint  of  growth.  Train  all  other  shoots 
in  their  full  length  as  far  as  space  permits,  keeping  them  secured  to  the 
trellis,  with  ample  space  in  the  ties  for  the  growths  to  swell.  A  tem¬ 
perature  of  55°  at  night  and  5®  to' 10s  advance  in  the  daytime  is 
sufficient,  ventilating  freely  above  65°.  Syringe  the  trees  twice  a  day 
in  favourable  weather,  but  only  once  when  dull,  and  keep  the  borders 
well  supplied  with  water,  never  letting  the  roots  lack  moisture. 
Late  Houses. — When  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  are  m  blossom  the 
sight  is  pleasant,  and  the  odour  of  nectar  significant  of  a  good  set. 
Bees  abound  in  the  houses,  and  brush  the  flowers  over  with  results  alike 
beneficial  to  the  grower  and  the  apiarian.  A  little  fire  heat  to  maintain 
a  day  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  insures  advancement,  admitting  a  little 
air  top  and  bottom  so  as  to  promote  a  circulation.  A  chink  at  night  is 
also  beneficial,  excluding  frost  by  maintaining  the  temperature  at  40° 
to  45°.  Admit  air  freely  at  and  above  55°,  not  allowing  the  temperature 
to  exceed  65°  without  full  ventilation.  A  genial  condition  of  the 
atmosphere  can  be  maintained  by  damping  the  borders  and  paths  occa¬ 
sionally,  but  avoid  making  the  atmosphere  so  humid  that  moisture 
condenses  on  the  blossoms  during  the  night. 
Unlieated  Houses  or  Wall  Cases. — The  chief  points  in  these  struc¬ 
tures  are  to  secure  a  well  ventilated  atmosphere  in  the  early  part  of  the 
diy,  and  to  have  the  border  well  supplied  with  moisture,  but  not  need¬ 
lessly  wetting  the  surface,  which  is  best  rather  dry,  especially  towards 
evening,  as  it  attracts  moisture  in  that  state,  closing  the  house  before 
the  temperature  is  much  reduced  so  as  to  enclose  a  moderate  amount  of 
sun  heat.  About  5  p.m.  is  usually  sufficiently  early  to  close  the  house 
for  the  day,  as  walls  give  out  heat  some  time  after  closing,  generally 
sufficient  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  blossom  if  it  is  kept  dry.  Damping 
or  watering  should  be  done  in  the  morning,  so  that  superfluous  water 
may  be  dissipated. 
Vines. — Early  Houses. — Grapes  now  colouring  fast  will  require 
abundance  of  warm  air  by  day  and  night,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric 
moisture,  damping  the  paths,  walls,  mulching,  or  borders.  This  assists 
the  Grapes  in  swelling,  and  preserves  the  foliage  in  health.  A  careful 
examination  of  the  borders  should  be  made,  and  if  they  are  dry  a  liberal 
