356 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
M >rll  29,  189?. 
Let  us  now  suppose  that  the  errors  above  pointed  out  have  been 
avoided,  and  that  we  have  to  deal  with  healthy  Vines  with  plenty 
of  bunches,  little  difficulty  should  then  be  experienced  in  securing 
a  good  set. 
I  have  at  various  times  tested  every  method  I  have  heard  or 
read  of  for  securing  a  good  set  of  Muscats.  In  bright  weather  a 
perfect  set  may  be  obtained  by  lightly  syringing  the  bunches  at 
noon.  Drawing  the  hand  over  the  bunches  is  also  a  good  plan,  and 
by  the  use  of  the  rabbit’s  tail  results  in  every  way  satisfactory  have 
been  obtained  ;  but  I  am  convinced  that  neither  of  these  practices 
is  necessary,  as  shaking  the  rods  several  times  daily,  and  at  noon 
tapping  each  lateral  carrying  a  bunch  with  a  stick  is  equally 
effective.  The  only  exception  is  in  the  case  of  very  large  bunches. 
On  the  points  and  shoulders  of  these  I  like  to  pass  the  rabbit’s  tail 
or  hand,  as  the  pollen  seems  to  drop  away  from  these  places  when 
the  Vines  are  shaken.  ,  N 
There  is  nothing  like  plenty  of  fire  heat  for  Muscats  in  flower. 
The  night  temperature  should  range  from  65°  to  75°,  and  from  75° 
to  80°  by  fire  heat  on  dull  days,  in  bright  weather  keeping  the  fire 
in  check  but  never  allowing  the  hot-water  pipes  to  become  cold. 
Air  should  be  given  in  greater  or  less  quantity  throughout  the  day^ 
the  object  being  to  maintain  a  free  and  regular  circulation  rather 
than  a  sudden  inrush  of  air  whenever  the  sun  happens  to  burst  out 
between  the  clouds.  It  is  surprising  how  little  it  is  really  necessary 
to  open  and  close  ventilators  even  in  changeable  weather,  provided 
a  small  amount  of  air  is  admitted  just  before  the  sun  strikes 
the  house.  On  cold  nights  the  house  should  be  closed,  but  during 
warm  ones  the  time-honoured  “  chink  of  air  ”  may  with  advantage 
be  left  on.  Many  Grape  growers  seem  to  entertain  the  opinion 
that  the  atmosphere  of  a  house  in  which  the  Vines  are  in  flower 
cannot  easily  be  kept  too  dry.  This,  however,  i*  a  mistaken  idea 
which  is  gradually  disappearing.  Where  the  old  order  of  things 
remains  it  is  a  fruitful  source  of  bad  attacks  of  red  spider  and  an 
aid  to  the  production  of  imperfectly  fertilised  berries,  instead  of 
having  as  intended  an  opposite  effect. 
It  must,  I  think,  be  apparent  to  anyone  who  has  watched  a 
house  of  Muscats  in  flower  that  the  tender  foliage  cannot  endure 
with  impunity  very  high  temperatures,  without  a  certtCin  amount 
of  atmospheric  moisture  is  also  kept  up.  If  this  is  not  done  the 
energies  of  the  Vines  are  crippled,  the  leaves  become  flabby,  and 
therefore  unable  to  perform  their  functions  at  a  critical  time. 
Under  such  conditions  how  is  it  possible  to  obtain  a  satisfactory 
set  ?  If  we  consider  thoroughly  the  reason  why  a  comparatively  dry 
atmosphere  is  maintained  at  flowering  time,  it  will  not  be  difficult 
to  10  arrange  our  treatment  as  to  secure  the  object  in  view  without 
injury  to  the  Vines.  We  want  the  pollen  of  the  bunches  in 
flower  to  be  thoroughly  dry  by  noon,  so  that  when  shaken  it 
disperses  in  the  form  of  dust,  and  settles  upon  the  stigma  of  each 
flower.  When  this  has  been  accomplished  dry  atmospheric  con¬ 
ditions  are  not  necessary  for  the  next  fifteen  hours. 
In  practice  the  plan  I  find  answers  perfectly  is  to  sprinkle  the 
house  freely  at  9  a.m.,  after  the  Vines  have  been  shaken  ;  at  noon 
tap  each  lateral  with  a  stick,  and  early  in  the  afternoon,  when 
ventilation  is  reduced,  damp  the  floor  of  the  home  thoroughly,  and 
syringe  the  walls  should  the  weather  be  bright.  A  moderate 
damping  is  again  given  in  the  evening.  Other  varieties  of  Grapes 
which  do  not  need  such  high  temperatures  only  reqaire,  of  course, 
a  proportionately  less  amount  of  damping. 
The  night  temperature  for  these  should  range  between  62°  and 
65°,  with  a  rise  of  5°  daring  the  day*  Alnwick  Seedling  from  its 
peculiar  construction  requires  an  extra  amount  of  attention  at  the 
flowering  period,  as  the  tiny  caps  which  cover  the  flowers  are  not 
generally  thrown  off  naturally,  as  in  the  case  of  other  varieties. 
The  pollen  is  also  scarce.  A  good  set  may,  however,  be  secured  if 
the  rabbit’s  tail  is  passed  over  other  varieties  in  flower  till  it  has 
become  charged  with  pollen,  and  then  drawn  over  every  part  of 
the  bandies  of  Alnwick  Seedling.  Poster’s  Seedling  is  often 
considered  a  bad  setter,  and  at  one  time  I  used  to  draw  the  hand 
lightly  over  each  bunch,  I  am  now  content  with  tapping  the  laterals, 
which  results  in  a  perfect  set. 
In  the  case  of  large  bunches  of  Gros  Guillaume,  Trebbiano,  Black 
Hamburgh,  and  Buckland  Sweetwater,  I  use  the  hand  or  rabbit’s 
tail,  as  there  is  a  dinger  that  some  berriei  at  prominent  points  do 
not  get  properly  fertilised.  Gros  Colman,  Madresfield  Court,  and 
Gros  Maroc  are  as  a  rule  good  setters,  and  are  quite  satisfactory 
when  given  the  occasional  shake.  Lady  Downe’s  is,  according  to 
my  experience,  somewhat  uncertain  ;  but  passing  the  handover  the 
bunches  is  the  best  aid  to  fertilisation  I  have  yet  tried.  Before 
concluding  let  me  repeat  that  unhealthy  Vines  and  deficient  root 
action  are,  I  believe,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  the  principal  cause  of 
the  failure  to  secure  a  good  set  of  Grapes.  Those,  therefore,  who 
experience  difficulty  in  this  respect  must  first  establish  their  Vines 
in  perfect  health  before  they  can  hope  for  greatly  improved  results. 
The  science  of  Grape  growing  is  simple  indeed  if  cultivators  would 
not  play  “  fast  and  loose  ”  with  the  principles  which  underlie 
successful  fruit  culture  generally. — Pomona. 
TREATMENT  OF  SEEDLING  PLANTS. 
After  seeds  of  half-hardy  and  tender  annuals,  greenhouse 
perennials  and  others  that  may  be  sown  in  spring,  have  successfully 
germinated,  the  seedlings  under  favourable  conditions  of  growth 
soon  advance  in  size.  Provided  each  little  plant  has  iufficient 
room  for  its  first  seed  leaves  and  the  development  in  their  early 
stages  of  the  rough  leaves  which  immediately  follow,  there  is 
little  cause  to  fear  injury  to  the  seedlings.  But  where  seedlings, 
whether  from  avoidable  or  unavoidable  causes,  have  grown  too 
thickly  together,  the  first  opportunity  must  be  taken  to  afford  the 
proper  amount  of  space  which  is  ao  desirable  and  essential  to  the 
satisfactory  progress  of  all  seedlings. 
If  crowded  the  young  tender  stems  lengthen  in  their  endeavour 
to  carry  the  leaves  where  plenty  of  light  can  be  obtained.  In  doing 
so  they  naturally  become  weakened,  and  the  whole  plant  is  then 
more  likely  to  succumb  to  any  adverse  influences.  The  moral  then 
with  seeds  is  to  sow  them  as  far  as  possible  thinly.  If  sown  more 
thickly  than  desirable,  and  the  seedlings  when  germinated  are 
crowded  together,  the  greatest  possible  care  should  be  afforded  not 
to  keep  them  in  a  temperature  higher  than  necessary.  At  the  same 
time  give  them  every  assistance  in  supplying  unobstructed  light  in 
a  position  near  the  glass,  whether  that  is  a  frame,  greenhouse,  or 
stove. 
In  regulating  the  amount  of  light  powerful  sunshine  must  be 
taken  into  consideration,  affording  shade  from  its  drying  or  burning 
influence  in  the  case  of  any  seedlings  to  which  an  excesi  would  be 
injurious.  The  seedlings  might  receive  direct  injury,  or  the  soil  in 
which  they  are  growing  rapidly  lose  its  moistare  by  evaporation . 
Rational  treatment  in  the  early  stages  prevents  injury  and  assist* 
the  little  plants  to  assume  a  sturdiness  which  is  helpful  in  re-estab¬ 
lishing  them  in  boxes,  pans,  pots,  or  frames.  Moreover,  the  work 
of  pricking  out  or  transplanting  can  be  done  earlier  and  with  smaller 
examples  than  when  drawn  or  spoiled  by  crowding. 
The  preceding  remarks  apply  to  plants,  the  majority  of  which 
are  raised  from  seed  every  leason  in  spring,  and  are  grown 
afterwards  for  various  purposes  indoor*  and  out.  For  the  green¬ 
house,  Begonia0,  Gloxinias,  Streptocarpus,  Fuchsias,  Cyclamens, 
Primulas,  Cinerarias,  Petunias,  and  Coleuses  are  included.  For  the 
flower  garden,  Stocks,  Asters,  Marigolds,  annual  Chrysanthemums, 
Zinnias,  Dahlias,  Scabious,  Carnations,  Helichrysums,  Pansies  and 
Violas.  In  the  case  of  vegetables,  special  treatment  of  young 
plants  or  seedlings  is  only  needed  in  frames  with  Celery,  early 
Cauliflowers,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Lettuce  and  Tomatoes. 
It  frequently  happens  that  much  benefit  is  derived  from 
pricking  out  or  transplanting,  other  than  that  received  from 
increased  light,  air  and  space.  The  roots  like  to  ramify  in  fresh 
soil,  and  the  stems  of  some  plants,  for  instance  Tomatoes,  may  be 
sunk  deeper  in  the  soil  than  formerly  with  advantage.  Additional 
roots  issue  from  the  buried  stems.  This  serves  to  strengthen  and 
to  dwarf  the  plants.  It  may  be  adopted  with  most  fibrous-rooted 
plant*,  but  not  with  seedling  bulbous  or  tuberous-rooted  plants 
like  Cyclamen^,  Begonias,  and  Gloxinias. 
The  seeds  of  Begonias,  Gloxinias,  and  Primulas  frequently 
germinate  irregularly,  and  it  follows  that  the  seedlings  cannot  all 
be  transplanted  at  once.  Choose  the  most  forward  as  they  become 
large  enough  for  the  pdrpose.  This  can  usually  be  done,  with  a 
little  care,  in  lifting  out  tho»e  that  are  ready  with  a  small  notched 
stick  or  raising  gently  with  a  flat-pointed  label.  Leave  the  smaller 
