April  29,  189?. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
357 
undisturbed.  The  last  to  germinate  are  usually  the  choicest 
varieties,  of  which  care  ought  to  be  taken. 
The  compost  suitable  for  pricking  out  choice  and  tender 
perennials  should  be  light,  open,  and  sandy  ;  sweet  leaf  soil  and 
fibrous  loam  in  equal  parts,  with  a  liberal  addition  of  silver  sand, 
ia  a  mixture  in  which  almost  anything  in  a  young  state  can  freely 
make  roots.  A  medium,  regular  condition  of  moisture  muat  be 
kept.  This  is  readily  attainable  in  a  suitably  moiat  atmosphere 
such  as  a  vinery  or  intermediate  stove  temperature  at  this  season. 
The  practice  of  lightly  syringing  the  small  plants  and  soil  may 
be  daily  resorted  to  for  affording  the  necessary  moisture  without 
unduly  saturating  the  soil.  The  limited  supply  of  roots  which  the 
seedling  plants  have  at  first  are  easily  catered  for,  provided  the 
atmosphere  is  not  too  dry,  and  the  soil  when  placed  in  the 
receptacles  was  moist  throughout. 
The  soil  should  be  placed  in  firmly,  though  not  pressed  hard. 
Provide  efficient  drainage,  so  that  the  more  copious  supplies  of 
water  required  when  the  plants  become  larger  may  readily  drain 
away.  A  fair  amount  of  subdued  light  in  a  position  somewhat 
removed  from  near  the  glass  may  probably  render  direct  shading 
from  sunshine  superfluous.  Should  the  shading,  however,  be 
required  it  must  not  be  neglected,  either  in  placing  it  on  or  taking 
it  off.  Harm  may  be  done  in  both  ways,  and  the  careful  grower 
will  hit  the  happy  medium  as  each  day  requires  it.  It  is  best  to 
dispense  with  as  much  shade  as  possible  compatible  with  the  health 
and  progress  of  the  plants. 
The  majority  of  half-hardy  plants  are  considerably  benefited  in 
habit,  sturdiness,  and  rooting  power  by  judicious  transplanting 
from  the  seedling  pots  and  boxes.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  is  impos¬ 
sible  to  grow  many  of  these  without  this  desirable  assistance. 
Boxes,  pans,  and  frames  may  be  employed  according  to  the  require¬ 
ments  or  convenience.  For  accommodating  boxes  or  pans  a  frame 
or  cool  house  is  necessary  to  afford  a  start.  Low  lean-to  frames 
partly  filled  with  manure  and  surfaced  with  several  inches  of  good 
pffil  will  accommodate  hundreds  of  Asters,  Stocks,  Marigolds, 
Zinnias,  annual  Chrysanthemums,  Tagetes,  Phlox  Drummondi, 
Helichrysums,  Larkspurs,  Indian  Pinks,  Pansies,  and  Violas.  Prick 
them  out  about  3  inches  apart.  Old  potting  soil  made  moist  and 
placed  firmly  on  the  manure  is  the  most  suitable  material. 
Boxes  and  pans  may  be  lightly  drained  with  a  few  crocks,  and 
over  them  a  layer  of  flaky  manure  or  leaf  soil.  Fill  up  with  com- 
poit  pressed  down  and  made  smooth  on  the  surface.  They  are 
then  ready  for  the  plants,  which  may  be  inserted  with  a  wooden 
dibber,  giving  them  space  according  to  the  habit  they  are  known  to 
assume,  placing  them  in  lines  across  the  boxes.  If  the  compoat  is 
used  moist,  as  it  should  be,  heavy  watering  at  first  is  not  necessary. 
The  plants  and  soil  can  be  maihtained  healthfully  moist  by 
syringing,  also  by  keeping  the  frame  or  house  rather  closer  for 
several  days,  and  if  really  necessary  give  a  light  shading  during  the 
hottest  sunshine  to  any  young  plants  that  do  not  appreciate  exces¬ 
sive  light. 
When  fairly  well  established  discard  shading  and  afford  air  in 
gradually  increasing  abundance.  Finally  remove  the  lights  from 
the  frames  or  place  the  receptacles  outdoors  to  thoroughly  harden 
the  plants  before  planting  out.  The  period  after  which  half-hardy 
bedding  plants  are  safe  for  full  exposure  is  the  24th  of  May  in  the 
northern  counties,  and  a  few  days  earlier  in  the  southern.  There 
are  sheltered  positions,  however,  where  May  frosts  do  not  reach, 
such  as  in  the  vicinity  of  shrubs  or  buildings.  These  may  be 
utilised  for  temporary  protection.  In  the  absence  of  natural 
shelter  or  the  scarcity  of  frames  or  lights  canvas  coverings  supported 
on  framework  are  necessary  to  harden  the  plants  in  boxes  or  pans. 
Beds  for  pricking  out  seedlings  may  be  formed  and  temporarily 
protected  until  the  plants  are  safely  established. 
Earlier  in  the  season  Lettuce  plants  raised  thinly  in  boxes  are 
finally  pricked  out  in  beds  of  good  soil,  affording  the  protection  of 
a  frame.  Due  supplies  of  air  must  be  given  on  all  favourable 
occasions  to  promote  sturdy  growth,  dispensing  with  protection  as 
soon  as  possible. 
The  early  and  main  crop  Celery  plants  are  usually  obtained 
by  growing  them  in  boxes  or  frames  in  generous  soil,  placed 
on  a  slightly  warm  bed  of  manure ;  but  this  is  not  absolutely 
essential,  though  it  is  desirable  that  the  young  plants  should  root 
into  a  few  inches  of  decayed  manure  under  the  soil.  The  manure 
may  be  placed  on  a  hard  bottom,  which  will  promote  fibrous 
rooting,  and  the  plants  when  ready  easily  lift,  with  material 
adhering  to  the  roots .  In  the  absence  of  convenient  frames  place 
the  seedlings  in  moderately  deep  boxes,  employing  a  layer  of 
decayed  manure  one-third  the  depth,  filling  the  rest  of  the  space 
with  good  soil.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  Celery  plants  prepared 
on  these  lines  are  superior  in  every  way  to  those  left  without 
special  treatment  in  the  early  stages. 
Tomatoes,  as  above  indicated,  are  greatly  improved  in  sturdiness 
by  a  few  transplantings  or  repottings,  sinking  the  stems  lower  each 
time.  Roots  issue  freely  from  the  buried  portions  of  stems,  and 
benefit  the  plants  considerably. 
Brussels  Sprouts,  Cauliflowers,  Cabbages,  Savoys  and  other 
Brassiere  require  to  be  strengthened  by  pricking  out  the  seedlings 
when  the  first  rough  leaves  are  being  formed.  As  a  rule  none  of 
these,  except  those  intended  for  exceptionally  early  supplies, 
requires  the  aid  of  glass.  Good  fertile  soil  and  an  open  sheltered 
situation  should  be  selected.  Place  the  seedlings  4  inches  apart, 
with  the  roots  straight  down.  Give  water  occasionally  and  keep 
free  from  weeds,  which  will  be  all  the  attention  needed  until  large 
enough  to  plant  finally. — E.  D.  S. 
ASPARAGUS  CULTURE. 
Instances  are  known  where  Asparagus  beds  have  given 
satisfactory  results  for  fifty  years.  Certainly  thirty  years  is  not 
too  long  to  expect  them  to  flourish  under  suitable  conditions. 
Almost  any  kind  of  soil  may  be  made  to  grow  Asparagus  by  suit¬ 
able  preparation  ;  but  a  deep  friable  loam,  with  a  porous  subsoil,  is 
usually  preferred. 
Where  the  soil  is  naturally  wet,  or  even  heavy,  and  consequently 
retentive  of  moisture,  it  ought  to  be  trenched  a  yard  deep,  and 
raised  9  inches  above  the  natural  level  to  insure  the  roots  against 
premature  decay.  Asparagus  cannot  be  successfully  grown  in  a 
situation  that  is  in  any  way  shaded.  An  open  position,  away  from 
high  walls  or  overhanging  trees,  is  preferred,  as  all  the  sun  possible 
is  necessary  to  insure  success.  Asparagus  is  usually  planted  in 
beds  4  feet  wide ;  this  size  admits  three  rows  of  plants,  one  in  the 
centre,  and  the  two  outer  rows  10  inches  from  the  edge. 
As  trenching  proceeds  the  surface  soil  should  be  retained  in  the 
same  position.  It  the  soil  1  foot  below  is  heavy  in  character  it  is 
advisable  to  remove  the  worst  of  it,  using  an  equal  bulk  of  roadside 
refuse  and  decayed  vegetable  matter,  thoroughly  mixing  this  with 
the  surface  soil.  The  beds  ought  to  be  prepared  fully  two  months 
before  planting  to  allow  the  soil  to  settle  down  to  near  its 
natural  level.  One  month  before  planting  fork  in  9  inches  below 
the  surface  a  liberal  dressing  of  farmyard  manure.  If  more  beds 
than  one  are  to  be  made  alleys  2  feet  wide  should  be  allowed 
between  them.  This  space  can  be  profitably  employed  during  the 
spring  and  early  summer  in  the  growth  of  Cauliflowers  or  Lettuce, 
the  rich  nature  of  the  soil  being  just  suited  to  these  quick  growing 
vegetables. 
If  Asparagus  is  required  quickly  two-year-old  plants  should  be 
employed,  but  where  time  is  not  so  much  an  object  plants  raised 
from  seeds  sown  the  second  or  third  week  in  April  give  satisfactory 
results.  The  early  part  of  April  is  a  good  time  for  planting. 
Everything  should  be  in  readiness  when  the  crowns  are  received 
from  the  nursery,  the  surface  of  the  bed  raked  fine,  and  the  rows 
marked  out,  as  exposure  of  the  thick,  fleshy  roots  to  drying  winds 
is  most  injurious.  Choose  a  dry  day  for  planting,  mark  out  the 
rows,  then  with  a  spade  throw  out  the  soil  3  inches  deep,  and 
sufficiently  wide  that  the  roots  can  be  spread  evenly,  keeping  the 
crown  of  the  plant  in  the  middle  of  the  row.  Cover  the  roots 
with  some  friable  compost  such  as  road  grit  and  decayed  vegetable 
matter,  or  old  potting  soil  to  which  sand  has  been  freely  added 
Return  the  soil  to  the  row  over  the  special  compost,  and  rake 
the  beds  level.  A  distance  of  15  inches  should  be  allowed  between 
the  plants  in  the  rows. 
In  the  event  of  the  weather  being  both  hot  and  dry  during  May 
mulch  the  surface  of  the  beds  with  2  inches  of  half-decayed  horse 
manure.  Nothing  is  better  than  the  materials  from  a  spent  Mush¬ 
room  bed  for  conserving  the  moisture  in  the  soil — the  object  of 
mulching.  Should  the  weather  be  exceptionally  hot  and  dry 
during  June  and  July  a  thorough  soaking  of  the  soil  will  do  much 
towards  aiding  the  growth,  which  is  especially  important  the  first 
year.  The  beds  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds.  Cutting  should 
not  begin  until  the  second  season,  but  little  then.  Asparagus 
receives  a  serious  check  to  growth  and  maturity  if,  as  sometimes  is 
the  case,  the  “  grass  ”  is  much  blown  about,  and  consequently  the 
crown  of  the  root  injured.  Each  strong  stem  is  worthy  of  a  stake, 
or  short  Pea  sticks  thrust  in  the  ground  at  intervals  will  afford  the 
plants  useful  support. 
Early  in  November  the  stems  ought  to  be  thoroughly  ripe,  and 
should  then  be  cut  down  to  within  a  couple  of  inches  of  the  soil. 
With  a  fork  lightly  break  the  surface,  and  cover  with  3  inches  of 
half-decayed  stable  manure.  Some  persons  dig  out  the  soil  from 
the  alleys,  using  it  to  cover  the  manure.  This,  in  my  opinion,  is 
not  a  good  plan,  as  many  of  the  roots  are  injured  in  the  alleys. 
The  manure  affords  ample  protection  against  frost  without  the 
addition  of  soil. 
The  first  week  in  April  rake  the  bulk  of  the  manure  into  the 
alleys,  where  it  will  decay  and  provide  a  capital  rooting  medium 
for  the  Cauliflower  and  Lettuce  alluded  to  earlier.  A  sprinkling 
