April  29,  1S97. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
373 
they  will  afford  many  useful  sprays  for  cutting.  It  is  far  better  to 
grow  a  few  plants  well  than  to  attempt  to  grow  many  more  than  there 
is  room  for,  or  than  can  be  properly  attended  to. — Grower. 
[Our  correspondent  desires  to  know  if  he  is  trespassing  on  our  space. 
Our  reply  is,  “  No.”  He  can,  if  he  take  pains  with  his  pen,  occupy  a 
portion  of  it  usefully.l 
FRUIT  FORGING. 
Cherry  House. — Where  the  trees  were  started  at  the  new  year  and 
’have  been  brought  forward  steadily  the  fruit  will  have  stoned  and 
commenced  colouring,  and  be  swelling  rapidly  for  ripening.  The  tempe¬ 
rature  may  now  be  raised,  but  it  must  not  exceed  65°  by  artificial  means 
and  55°  to  60°  at  night,  with  a  little  ventilation,  increasing  it  at  70°. 
Subject  to  the  leaving  of  a  little  air  on  constantly  at  the  top  of  the 
house  close  at  70°,  but  the  temperature  must  not  be  allowed  to  exceed 
that  degree  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  without  full  ventilation.  From 
the  commencement  of  colouring  until  the  trees  are  cleared  of  their 
fruits  syringing  must  cease,  or  the  fruits  will  crack,  but  humidity 
should  be  maintained  in  the  house  by  keeping  the  surface  of  the  border 
moistened  as  it  becomes  dry,  or  if  the  trees  are  in  pots — a  very  desirable 
method  of  growing  this  very  acceptable  fruit — damping  the  floor  two  or 
three  times  a  day,  avoiding,  however,  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  Aphides, 
which  are  apt  to  settle  on  the  points  of  the  young  shoots,  must  be  kept 
under  by  vapourisation  with  nicotine  essence,  or  fumigation  with  good 
tobacco  paper  or  rag,  a9  it  does  not  answer  to  apply  an  insecticide  in 
powder  or  liquid  form  after  the  fruit  commences  ripening.  Tne  border 
must  not  lack  moisture,  and  trees  in  pots  must  be  properly  attended  to 
as  required  in  watering.  Place  some  netting  over  the  ventilators  to 
prevent  birds  attacking  the  Cherries.  Stop  the  extending  growths  of 
tree*  in  pots  at  the  fifth  leaf,  and  laterals  to  one  joint  as  made.  Trellis- 
trained  trees  should  have  the  shoots  tied  in  as  they  lengthen,  and  those 
not  required  for  training  in  may  be  stopped  at  about  the  fifth  leaf. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  in  bearing  all  the  winter  will  now  be  showing 
ffigns  of  exhaustion,  and  would  be  best  removed,  cleansing  the  house, 
providing  fresh  soil,  and  putting  out  fresh  plants  without  delay.  This 
is  far  better  than  renovating  old  plants,  and  there  is  no  very  material 
break  if  care  is  taken  to  have  strong  plants  ready  for  placing  out,  which 
come  into  bearing  within  a  few  weeks ;  indeed,  some  turn  out  large 
plants,  and  by  cropping  lightly  have  no  break  in  the  succession,  as 
•Cucumbers  cut  young  will  keep  plump  and  fresh  several  days  with  their 
heels  in  saucers  of  water.  Young  plants  coming  into  bearing  will  be  the 
better  for  removing  the  male  flowers  and  most  of  the  first  fruits,  stopping 
at  two  or  three  joints  beyond  the  fruit,  removing  all  weakly  and 
unnecessary  growths.  Encourage  a  free  root  action  by  adding  fresh 
warmed  soil  to  the  hillocks  or  ridges  as  the  roots  protrude,  sprinkling  a 
little  fertiliser  on  the  newly  added  soil,  such  as  superphosphate  of  lime, 
3  parts  ;  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia,  2  parts  ;  and  a  mixture  of 
equal  parts  air-slaked  chalk  lime  and  dry  soot  by  measure,  using  a  good 
handful,  3  or  4  ozs.,  per  square  yard.  This  must  always  be  sprinkled 
on  the  freshly  added  soil,  and  not  applied  directly  on  the  roots. 
Little  fire  heat  will  be  required  by  day  in  fine  weather,  shutting  off 
the  heat  at  about  8  A  M.,  and  opening  the  valves  at  about  4  P.M.,  main¬ 
taining  adequate  moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and  other  surfaces  in  the 
morning  and  at  closing  time.  Maintain,  however,  a  night  temperature 
of  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  in  the  day  by  artificial  means.  Aphides  are  some¬ 
times  troublesome,  and  may  be  subdued  by  tobacco,  either  in  the  .form  of 
vapour  or  smoke,  taking  care  not  to  give  an  overdose,  having  the  foliage 
dry,  but  the  floor  well  damped,  the  latter  is  especially  necessary  where 
there  is  white  fly  to  contend  with.  Soapy  solutions  are  neither  safe  nor 
desirable  for  use  on  Cucumber  foliage.  For  this  pest  and  red  spider 
fumes  of  sulphur  are  effective.  The  sulphur  must  be  applied  carefully, 
as  an  overdose  on  hot-water  pipes  at  a  high  temperature  is  almost  as 
injurious  to  the  plants  as  are  the  pests. 
Sow  seed  for  raising  plants  to  occupy  pits  and  frames.  A  fair 
amount  of  bottom  heat  should  first  be  secured  by  using  the  less  decom¬ 
posed  material  from  Rhubarb,  Seakale,  Vine  borders,  or  exhausted 
hotbeds,  which,  with  about  a  fourth  of  fresh  material,  will  afford  all 
the  bottom  heat  now  required.  The  linings  of  beds  made  up  some  little 
time  must  be  attended  to,  renewing  as  required.  Maintain  the  night 
temperature  as  near  as  may  be  at  65°  to  70°,  ventilate  a  little  at  75°, 
and  keep  through  the  day  at  85°  to  90°  from  sun  heat.  Close  early  so 
as  to  rise  to  90°  or  more,  and  protect  well  at  night. 
Pigs. — Earlieit  Trees  in  Pots. — The  fruits  of  the  very  early  small 
varieties  are  ripe,  and  the  large  Pingo  de  Mel,  White  Marseilles,  and 
Brown  Turkey  are  nearly  so,  hence  the  supply  of  water  at  the  roots 
must  be  diminished,  discontinuing  syringing,  and  affording  a  free  circu¬ 
lation  of  warm  air,  leaving  a  little  top  ventilation  at  night.  Although 
watering  is  advised  to  be  lessened  during  the  ripening  of  the  fruit,  the 
soil  must  be  kept  moist,  and  a  moderate  moisture  in  the  atmosphere 
secured  by  an  occasional  damping,  but  this  will  only  be  necessary  in 
very  bright  weather.  As  soon  as  the  first  crop  is  gatnered  syringe  the 
trees  twice  daily,  renewing  the  top-dressing,  and  watering  at  the  roots 
with  weak  liquid  manure.  If  the  second  crop  be  very  abundant  the 
fruits  must  be  thinned  so  as  not  to  overtax  the  trees  for  early  forcing 
next  season. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Irees. — The  fruit  is  advancing  rapidly 
towards  the  ripening  stage,  and  must  have  sufficient  nutriment.  If 
necessary  give  the  trees  a  thorough  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure, 
and  mulch  the  border  with  a  little  partially  decayed,  rather  lumpy 
manure.  Do  not  cease  syringing  until  the  fruit  commences  ripening, 
avoiding  then  a  superfluity  of  moisture  about  the  house,  having  a  little 
ventilation  at  the  top  constantly,  and  a  free  circulation  until  the  fruit 
is  all  gathered.  Do  not  gather  the  fruit  until  it  is  thoroughly  ripe 
unless  it  has  to  be  packed. 
Succession  Houses. — Attend  to  stopping  the  shoots  at  the  fifth  joint, 
and  subsequently  to  one  or  two  ;  but  too  many  side  shoots  must  not  be 
encouraged,  as  the  fruit  and  wood  require  light  and  air  for  matura¬ 
tion.  Train  extensions  in  their  full  length,  thinning  or  removing  strong 
growths  so  as  to  admit  light  and  air  to  the  fruit.  Attend  daily  to 
syringing  the  trees,  and  supply  water  as  necessary  to  maintain  thorough 
moisture  at  the  roots.  Renew  the  mulching  as  necessary  and  keep  it 
moist,  but  not  always  saturated,  so  as  to  encourage  the  roots  and  keep 
them  at  the  surface. 
Melons. — After  the  flowers  appear  the  atmosphere  should  be  mode¬ 
rately  dry  and  well  ventilated,  fertilising  the  pistillate  blossoms  when 
fully  expanded,  stopping  the  shoots  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit.  This 
should  be  persisted  in  daily  until  the  number  required  for  the  crop  are 
|  secured  on  each  plant,  not  allowing  one  fruit  to  take  the  lead,  but 
having  them  all  on  as  nearly  an  equal  swelling  as  possible.  Do  not 
spare  the  knife  after  the  fruit  has  commenced  swelling  ;  but  keep  the 
principal  leaves  fully  exposed  to  the  light,  attending  frequently  to  stopping 
the  laterals.  Maintain  plenty  of  moisture  where  plants  are  swelling 
their  fruits,  syringing  the  walls  as  well  as  the  plants  about  3  p.m., 
damping  the  floors  several  times  in  hot  weather.  Afford  water  or  liquid 
manure  about  twice  a  week,  never  allowing  the  foliage  to  flag.  The  night 
temperature  should  be  maintained  at  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  from 
fire  heat,  and  85°  to  90°  with  sun.  Ventilate  freely,  but  avoid  admitting 
too  much  air  at  a  time,  so  as  to  reduce  the  temperature,  commencing  at 
75°,  increasing  or  diminishing  it  with  due  regard  to  external  influences. 
When  the  fruit  is  full  sized  and  advanced  for  ripening  gradually 
reduce  the  supply  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  not  so  as  to  cause  the 
foliage  to  flag ;  afford  a  circulation  of  warm  air,  which  should  be  rather  dry 
during  the  ripening  process.  Cracked  fruits  are  produced  by  a  close 
moist  atmosphere,  and  too  much  water  at  the  roots.  If  any  fruits  show 
a  tendency  to  crack  cut  the  shoots  about  half  way  through  with  a 
koife  a  few  inches  below  the  fruit,  lessen  the  supply  of  water,  and  also 
atmospheric  moisture.  Shade  only  to  prevent,  flagging.  If  thrips 
appear  fumigate  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings,  or  in  the  evening 
of  a  calm  day  and  early  the  following  morning.  For  red  spider  and 
white  fly  brush  the  hot-water  pipes  with  a  cream  formed  of  flowers  of 
sulphur  and  skim  milk. 
Plants  in  pits  and  frames  should  have  the  growths  regulated  and 
trained,  keeping  them  rather  thin.  Plants  swelling  off  their  fruits 
should  be  well  earthed,  and  the  laterals  pinched  and  thinned,  placing 
the  fruit  on  pieces  of  slate.  Maintain  the  necessary  top  and  bottom  heat 
by  linings,  and  cover  the  lights  at  night  with  a  double  thickness  of  mats. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Hardening  Bedding  Plants. — In  order  to  make  room  for  the 
more  tender  plants  no  time  should  be  lost  in  hardening  all  Zonal 
Pelargoniums  well  established  in  pots  or  boxes.  They  must  not  be  too 
quickly  exposed  to  all  weathers,  and  considering  that  heavy  cold  rains 
and  hailstorms  are  very  injurious  to  them,  the  best  form  of  protection 
that  can  be  used,  next  to  old  lights,  are  large  wooden  shutters.  The 
latter  are  handy  for  a  variety  of  purposes,  and  should  be  found  in  most 
gardens.  Make  good  use  of  them  for  warding  off  cold  rains  as  well  as 
frosts.  Avoid  overwatering  plants  when  first  turned  out  of  houses  or 
pits.  Verbenas,  Lobelias,  Ageratums,  and  Heliotropes  also  suffer 
severely  if  they  are  very  cold  and  wet  at  the  roots,  more  especially 
when  placed  in  rather  deep  boxes,  and  only  the  strongest  of  the  two 
former  should  be  placed  out  of  doors  as  yet,  being  then  well  protected. 
Calceolarias  are  much  hardier,  and  whether  placed  singly  in  5-inch  pots 
or  in  boxes,  or  better  still,  temporarily  bedded  out  in  rich  light  soil, 
they  will  need  little  protection,  but  must  be  kept  well  supplied  with 
water  at  the  roots. 
Propagating. — There  is  yet  time  to  root  a  considerable  quantity  of 
plants,  and  when  abundance  are  raised  the  work  of  arranging  and 
planting  the  beds  and  borders  is  much  simplified.  Soft  tops 
of  Heliotropes  root  in  a  close  warm  frame,  or  in  a  box  covered  with 
glass  and  set  in  fairly  brisk  heat*  in  a  few  days,  as  also  do  Verbenas, 
Tropaeolums,  Iresines,  Coleuses,  and  Alternantheras,  stocky  little  plants 
being  got  ready  by  bedding-out  time.  These  late-propagated  plants  can, 
if  necessary,  have  the  small  pots  and  boxes  newly  emptied  of  the  hardier 
or  more  forward  plants,  and  if  kept  in  gentle  heat  till  well  rooted  into 
the  fresh  soil  will  eventually  bed  out  surprisingly  well.  After  pits  have 
been  cleared  of  early  vegetables  or  Violets  they  might  be  got  ready  for 
propagating  purposes.  In  some  cases  there  will  be  enough  heat  left  in 
the  old  hotbed  underneath,  in  others  a  slight  renewal  will  be  necessary. 
With  the  aid  of  short  heating  material  below,  raise  about  4  inches  of 
'  fine  light  soil  well  up  to  the  glass,  and  face  the  latter  with  sharp  sand. 
