398 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  6,  1897. 
and  Plums.  If  they  appear  on  the  shoots  in  the  course  of  the  present 
month  exterminate  them  early.  SyriDging  them  with  clean  water  is  a 
ready  means  of  dislodging  the  early  colonies,  also  dusting  with  tobacco 
powder,  but  in  very  bad  cases  the  nse  of  insecticides  in  solution  must 
be  resorted  to.  A  dry  condition  of  the  soil  about  tbe  roots  favours  their 
establishment  and  increase,  hence  it  is  desirable  that  the  rooting  medium 
be  kept  properly  moist.  The  present  is  a  suitable  time  to  give  a  copious 
watering,  which  will  act  beneficially  in  assisting  the  early  stages  of 
fruit  development,  and  so  invigorate  the  trees  generally  that  they  will 
not  be  readily  subject  to  insects. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  drees — On  the  very 
early  varieties  the  ripening  fruit  must.be  kept  dry,  also  the  foliage  ;  but 
the  border  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  very  dry,  or  it  will  act  inju¬ 
riously  upon  the  growth  and  affect  the  formation  and  maturation  of  the 
buds  for  future  bearing.  As  the  fruit  of  the  other  varieties  will  not  be 
ripe  for  some  time  keep  the  atmosphere  moist  by  frequent  sprinklings 
during  the  day,  syringing  in  the  morning  and  again  when  closing  the 
bouse.  The  night  temperature  will  be  perfectly  safe  at  65°  to  70°,  but 
5°  less,  though  it  will  retard  the  ripening,  will  not  tax  the  energies  of  tbe 
trees  so  much  as  the  higher  temperatures. 
Fruit  Stoning. — During  this  process  the  trees  must  not  be  hurried  ; 
60°  to  65°  at  night  is  ample,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day,  avoiding  high  night 
temperatures  and  sudden  fluctuations  by  carefully  attending  to  venti¬ 
lation.  A  little  air  admitted  at  night  will  prevent  the  deposition  of 
moisture  on  the  foliage  through  the  night  to  any  serious  extent,  and 
enlarge  the  openings  when  the  sun  acts  on  the  house,  yet  without 
lowering  the  temperature,  which  should  advance  with  the  power  of 
the  sun  and  a  corresponding  increase  of  the  ventilation.  Avoid  any¬ 
thing  calculated  to  dry  tbe  atmosphere  suddenly,  such  as  fumigation 
and  opening  the  ventilators  widely  after  the  sun  has  acted  some  time  on 
tbe  house,  for  the  effect  is  to  cripple  the  foliage,  when  the  fruit  from  the 
check  may  be  seriously  imperilled  and  fall.  Early  closing  is  to  some 
extent  desirable,  and  an  advantage  in  swelling  the  fruit  to  a  good  size, 
but  it  must  not  be  continued  too  long.  It  is  also  advisable  to  allow  a 
little  extra  latitude  to  the  growth,  but  on  no  account  permit  foliage 
to  be  developed  that  must  afterwards  be  removed  in  quantity.  Keep 
tbe  inside  border  well  supplied  with  water,  and  avoid  undue  excitement 
at  the  roots  by  stimulating  them  with  quickly  acting  nitrogenous 
manure  in  either  solid  or  liquid  form.  Judicious  feeding,  however,  is  a 
great  aid  to  trees  when  stoning  ;  but  let  it  be  of  a  phospbatic,  potassic, 
and  magnesian  nature.  The  surface  may  be  mulched  lightly  to  keep  it 
moist  and  attract  tbe  roots. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Fruit. — These  swell  most  at  two  periods — 
namely,  after  setting,  until  the  commencement  of  stoning.  Tbe  first  is 
materially,  if  not  entirely,  influenced  by  the  previous  storing  of  matter 
in  the  trees  and  the  available  food  in  the  soil ;  but  a  genial  condition  of 
tbe  atmosphere  accelerates  the  swelling  of  the  fruits,  and  the  means 
employed  to  secure  a  good  root  action,  which  is  best  effected  by  a 
judicious  and  gradual  regulation  of  the  growths  by  the  process  of  dis¬ 
budding  and  in  thinning  the  fruits.  Overcrowding  is  a  great  evil,  but 
large  reductions  of  foliage  at  one  time  as  veil  as  fruit  are  not  good. 
There  is  no  safety  save  in  a  steady  progressive  growth  and  careful 
disbudding.  The  more  vigorous  the  trees  the  greater  is  the  danger  of 
the  fruit  being  cast  in  stoning,  and  the  evil  is  afterwards  increased  by 
severe  disbudding,  also  by  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere.  In  the  last 
swelling  after  stoning  tie  the  shoots  down,  so  that  the  fruits  may  be 
fully  exposed  to  light,  but  moderate  extension  of  the  growth  will 
materially  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling,  care  being  taken  that  the  principal 
foliage  and  fruits  be  not  interfered  with.  Supply  water  thoroughly  to 
inside  borders  when  necessary,  and  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees. 
Vines. — Early  Forced. — Where  the  Grapes  are  ripe  fire  heat  will 
only  be  necessary  to  keep  the  temperature  at  about  60°  at  night,  venti¬ 
lating  freely  by  day.  Black  Hamburgh  and  other  thin-skinned  black 
Grapes  will  need  slight  shade,  such  as  that  of  a  double  thickness  of 
herring  nets  over  the  roof  lights,  and  it  will  also  prevent  amber- 
coloured  Grapes  assuming  a  brownish  hue,  detracting  from  their  appear¬ 
ance.  Damp  the  house  occasionally,  not  allowing  moisture  to  be 
condensed  on  the  berries,  but  prevent  it  by  a  little  ventilation  constantly, 
and  insure  its  dissipation  by  increasing  the  amount  early.  A  certain 
extent  of  air  moisture  is  necessary  for  the  foliage,  and  will  not  injure 
tbe  Grapes  provided  tbe  atmosphere  is  not  stagnant.  A  moderate 
extension  of  the  laterals  is  advisable,  as  it  tends  to  keep  the  roots  active 
and  to  prevent  the  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage,  which  must  be 
kept  clean  and  healthy  as  long  as  possible.  If  tbe  principal  leaves  fall 
a  prey  to  red  spider,  and  there  are  no  laterals  to  utilise  the  sap,  it  is 
probable  that  the  axillary  buds  will  be  started  prematurely.  If  fer¬ 
menting  materials  have  been  applied  to  the  border  part  of  them  should 
now  be  removed,  leaving  sufficient  for  a  mulch,  and  if  the  roots  are 
active  in  the  lower  part  of  the  material  a  little  fresh  may  be  placed  on 
the  surface  to  protect  them  from  the  atmosphere  and  impart  a  neat 
appearance. 
Early  Muscats.— It  is  hardly  possible,  and  certainly  not  desirable,  to 
have  Muscat  of  Alexandria  ripe  before  June.  Black  Muscat  (Muscat 
Hamburgh)  may  be  ripened  by  the  end  of  April ;  but  it  sets  its  berries 
very  indifferently  at  an  early  season,  and  fertilisation  makes  very  little 
difference,  as  the  pistillate  parts  of  the  flower  are  often  devoid  of  ovules, 
and  cannot  possibly  be  set.  Madresfield  Court  cannot  be  classed  as  a 
Muscat  in  the  same  sense  as  a  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  but  it  forces 
admirably,  and  has  some  Muscat  flavour.  Crops  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
started  in  December  are  now  ripening,  and  the  Vines  must  not  lack  water 
at  the  roots.  Examine  the  inside  border  every  week,  and  if  moisture  be 
necessary  give  it,  or  liquid  manure  liberally  and  warm.  The  temperature 
should  be  kept  at  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and 
through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat.  A  circulation  of  air  should 
be  kept  constantly,  warm  and  rather  dry  air  being  necessary  to  perfection 
in  Muscats.  If  the  sun  is  very  powerful,  and  tbe  panes  of  glass  large 
and  clear,  a  single  thickness  of  herring  nets  drawn  over  the  roof  lights 
will  break  the  force  of  the  rays,  preventing  scorching  of  the  leaves  and 
berries,  which  is  often  occasioned  by  tbe  deposition  of  moisture  on  them, 
and  the  latter  is  a  common  cause  of  spot. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  Grapes  are  colouring,  and  need 
a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  to  swell  well,  damping  the  house 
two  or  three  times  a  day  until  tbe  colouring  approaches  completion, 
when  a  drier  atmosphere  will  be  advisable ;  but  moisture  must  not  be 
entirely  withdrawn,  or  red  spider  will  seriously  damage  the  foliage,  and 
premature  ripening  of  the  leaves  will  be  induced,  the  Vines  starting  into 
growth  when  they  should  be  going  to  rest.  Afford  free  ventilation, 
having  a  little  at  the  top  of  the  house  constantly  ;  a  circulation  of  warm 
air  contributes  to  good  finish  and  quality.  Moisture  at  the  roots  must 
be  furnished  thoroughly,  one  good  soaking  of  tepid  liquid  when  the 
Grapes  change  colour  and  a  mulch  of  partially  decayed  manure  will 
generally  secure  sufficient  moisture  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe.  The 
roots,  however,  must  not  lack  moisture.  Atmospheric  moisture  will  not 
injure  Grapes  of  this  class  (Hamburgh  and  Sweetwater)  at  this  time  of 
year  provided  it  is  not  stagnant  and  deposited  on  the  berries,  and  this 
will  not  occur  if  the  ventilation  is  properly  attended  to,  and  a  gentle 
warmth  is  maintained  in  the  hot-water  pipes.  Keep  the  night  tempera¬ 
ture  at  65°,  a  little  more  on  warm,  and  a  few  degrees  less  on  cold  nights, 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  80°  to  90°  with  sun  heat  and  full  ventilation,  closing 
at  80°,  all  but  a  small  space  at  the  top  of  the  house. 
Succession  Houses.  —  The  sun  is  an  important  factor  in  keeping 
down  the  bill  for  fuel.  There  is  nothing  like  opening  the  ventilators 
early  in  the  morning,  admitting  air  in  a  safe  quantity  to  pass  through 
the  house.  It  causes  excessive  moisture  to  disappear,  allows  the  foliage 
and  fruit  to  warm  equally  with  the  atmosphere,  preventing  scorching, 
while  elaboration  begins  early,  and  is  continued  through  the  day.  By 
closing  early  the  crops  are  accelerated  in  swelling,  provided  there  is  a- 
due  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture,  which  can  be  secured  by  damping 
the  paths  and  borders  at  closing  time.  Before  nightfall  admit  a  little 
air  at  the  top  of  the  house.  This  chink  for  air  saves  Vines  from  scorch¬ 
ing  when  the  air-giver  is  not  up  early  on  sunny  mornings,  but  tbe 
ventilation  should  be  increased  by  the  time  the  sun  acts  powerfully  on 
the  house.  Thinning  the  berries  must  be  attended  to  and  followed  up 
persistently.  The  morning  and  evening  is  the  best  time  for  operating, 
alike  to  cultivator  and  the  Grapes.  Remove  all  surplus  bunches.  Stop 
or  remove  laterals  not  required,  letting  those  retained  extend  where 
space  permits.  Do  not  crowd  tbe  foliage,  8nd  never  allow  the  laterals 
to  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves,  as  these,  to  feed  the  buds  at  their 
base,  require  free  exposure  to  light  and  air.  Supply  water  or  liquid 
mature  to  the  borders  liberally  when  needed,  and  encourage  surfuce 
.roots  with  top-dressings  of  superphosphate,  fish  meal,  and  blood  manure. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  mix  all  together  with  as  much  of  the  whole  added 
of  wood  ashes,  and  sprinkle  a  handful  (about  4  ozs  )  on  each  square  yard, 
washing  in.  Sulphate  of  ammonia  assists  Vines  needing  vigour.  Nitrate 
of  soda  may  be  used  where  the  soil  is  sandy  or  chalky,  and  nitrate  of 
potash  where  that  substance  is  deficient,  an  ounce  per  square  yard  being 
sufficient  for  one  dressing.  The  night  temperature  should  he  kept  at 
60°  to  65°,  70°  to  75°,  and  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat. 
Late  Vines. — These  are  advanced  for  flowering,  and  the  early  started 
may  be  in  bloom.  When  out  allow  a  night  temperature  of  70°,  and  80° 
by  day,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  but  not  a  drying  current,  a  genial 
atmosphere  being  maintained  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders.  Brush 
the  shy-setting  varieties  over  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush,  and  fertilise  the 
bunches  carefully  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  pollen,  taking  it  from 
those  that  afford  it  freely.  Up  to  and  after  flowering  the  night  tempera¬ 
ture  should  be  kept  at  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  keeping  at  80° 
to  85°  or  90°  through  the  day,  with  moderate  ventilation  in  brieht 
weather,  and  admit  air  when  mild.  Thin  the  bunches  and  berries, 
removing  duplicate  bunches  unflinchingly,  and  reserve  the  most  compact. 
The  free-setting  varieties  should  be  commenced  with  first,  leaving  the 
shy-setting  kinds  until  it  can  be  seen  which  are  the  properly  fertilised 
berries  by  their  taking  the  lead  in  swelling.  Forward  Vines  that  have 
only  been  recently  started,  seeking  advancement  by  sun  heat,  but  allow 
a  free  circulation  of  air  so  as  to  insure  sturdy  growth  and  stout  foliage. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Richardias. — Plants  that  have  flowered  may  be  placed  outside  in  a 
sheltered  position  for  a  few  days  and  then  planted  out.  Provide  a  well- 
manured  trench  for  them,  so  that  the  base  of  the  stem  will  be  a  little 
below  the  surface.  Break  up  old  balls  at  planting  time,  and  divide  sq 
that  they  will  not  need  disturbing  when  the  lifting  season  arrives 
further  than  is  necessary  to  reduce  the  balls  to  fit  pots  of  serviceable 
sizes.  Young  stock  that  has  been  grown  on  may  be  planted  out  at  once 
without  disturbing  the  roots.  If  the  weather  continues  dry  give  the 
plants  a  good  soakiog  of  water  after  they  are  planted  out,  and  mulch 
the  surface  with  manure  or  a  mixture  of  leaves  and  manure  that  has 
been  used  for  hotbeds. 
Eupatorlums. — Exhausted  specimens  may  be  cut  back  closely  if 
larger  plants  are  needed  another  season.  When  they  have  commenced 
growth  partially  reduce  their  roots  and  repot  them.  Start  them  in 
