May  13,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
405 
in  the  Ivy  and  the  brilliant  hue  in,  berries  of  the  Holly  ?  Nature 
is  a  continual  feast — things  of  beauty  are  borne  in  her  lap  at  all 
seasons,  not  in  one  place  but  in  many,  for  does  not  the  wet  ground 
glow  with  the  golden  cups  of  the  Marsh  Marigold,  the  yellow-eyed 
blue  Forget-me-not,  and  charming  Orchis  ?  Even  the  water  bears 
its  yellow  and  white  Lilies,  Arrow-heads,  Bullrushes,  and  Reeds, 
with  Yiolets  and  Soldiers,  while  high  and  dry  hillsides  are  aglow 
with  purple  Heather,  and  on  shady  banks  are  graceful  Ferns. 
Pictures  of  Nature’s  profusion  in  towns  are  not  uncommon. 
Many  cottage  gardens  glow  with  Winter  Aconite  and  Snowdrop, 
Primrose  and  Daffodil,  Woodruff  and  Forget-me-not  in  spring  time. 
Honeysuckle  for  sunny  and  Ivy  for  shaded  places  are  the  choicest 
of  climbers,  and  in  nooks  and  corners  the  Male  and  Lady  Fern 
dwell  in  sweet  harmony.  Town  gardens  have  their  spring  beds  and 
borders,  many  of  their  occupants  improved  forms  of  native  plants. 
Summer  bedding  gives  place  to  winter,  and  in  most  gardens  there 
is  a  bit  of  Nature — the  pond  of  aquatics,  the  fernery,  and  the 
rockery  for  alpines.  Then  there  is  the  shrubbery  and  lawn,  a  sort 
of  modified  wood,  copse  or  glade,  so  that  there  is  not  much 
difference  after  all  between  an  English  woodland  and  a  British 
garden  in  the  natural.  Indeed,  it  is  but  a  miniature  with  the  gems 
placed  in  the  best  setting,  so  as  to  accord  with  the  refinements  of 
the  home. 
But  in  the  wilderness  there  is  a  sort  of  entire  abandonment  of 
culture  and  of  trimness,  which  is  really  the  measure  of  difference 
between  the  well-kept  pleasure  ground  or  flower  garden.  The 
wood,  copse,  and  glade  are  improved  by  the  introduction  of  hardy 
bulbs  and  plants,  with  climbers  and  trailers,  as  well  as  flowering 
shrubs  or  trees.  The  practice  is  very  old — the  true  old  English 
style,  which  has  been  at  times  overlooked,  and  to  some  extent  over¬ 
run  by  the  stiff  and  formal  Dutch,  but  still  the  most  satisfying, 
and  returned  to  after  a  time,  for  it  has  the  property  of  wearing 
well,  and  may  be  described  as  the  supplanting  of  rubbish  by  “  things 
of  beauty  ”  in  their  respective  seasons.  Such  is  the  wilderness  I 
have  in  view,  not  the  blind  following  and  imitation  of  Nature,  but 
the  introduction  of  plants  that  will  increase  in  size,  and  form 
bolder  groups  as  each  year  comes  round,  improving  the  scene  and 
increasing  the  sources  of  pleasure. 
First  of  all  comes  the  glade,  the  ideal  place  for  bulbs.  Winter 
Aconites,  Snowdrops,  Cr  cuses,  Daffodils,  Snake’s  Head  Lilies 
(Fritillaria),  Dog’s  Tooth  Violets,  Grape  Hyacinths,  Squills, 
Solomon’s  Seal,  Meadow  Saffron,  and  no  end  of  other  things  that 
never  look  half  so  well  on  bare  ground  as  springing  from  grass. 
Bold  irregular  groups,  broad  in  places,  narrow  in  others  ;  isolated 
knots,  groups  of  these  as  if  self-sown  or  Nature-planted,  regard 
being  had  to  height  and  harmony  of  colour,  never  losing  sight  of 
reserving  plenty  of  setting  or  grass  to  alike  show  off  the  whole  to 
advantage,  and  allow  of  walking  amongst  them. 
Meadow  Orchis,  dotted  here  and  there  with  English  Iris,  yellow 
Allium,  blue  Wood  Anemone,  and  the  scarlet  Windflower  come  out 
grandly  in  the  glade.  What  more  beautifnl  on  grassy  slopes  than 
Primroses — not  all  yellow,  but  some  of  the  coloured,  even  the  truss 
forms  in  nearly  all  hues,  and  obtained  by  simply  sowing  the  seed, 
while  Cowslips  and  Oxlips  are  nowhere  more  at  home.  The 
hardier  Liliums  need  not  be  lost  in  the  wilderness.  Red-hot  Pokers 
(Tritomas)  shine  amid  its  greenery,  and  once  the  autumn  Anemones 
(A.  japonica  and  var.  alba)  get  established  there  are  few  flowers  to 
excel  them. 
All  the  foregoing  can  be  grown  in  grass  that  is  mown  two  or 
three  times  a  year,  as  the  shave  over  such  plants  as  Primroses  is 
never  so  close  by  the  scythe  as  to  seriously  damage  them.  The 
first  mowing,  however,  must  not  take  place  until  the  Daffodils 
have  died  down,  and  on  no  account  must  the  grass  be  cut  over  any 
plant  whilst  it  has  green  leaves  that  would  also  be  removed.  In 
mowing,  therefore,  regard  must  be  had  to  this,  which  is  not  at  all 
difficult  when  the  plants  are  in  groups  and  stand  out  boldly.  Any 
grass  growing  amongst  herbaceous  plants  should  be  removed 
frequently  with  the  hand  for  a  time,  then  the  naturalised  plants 
will  eventually  overpower  the  grass  instead  of  this  overrunning 
them. 
In  the  copse,  a  sort  of  thin  wood,  there  are  places  for  such 
plants  as  Pampas  and  other  stately  Grasses.  The  Willow  Herb  is 
more  ornamental  than  Nettles,  and  the  perennial  Sunflowers  will 
display  the  “  survival  of  the  fittest  ”  by  smothering  coarse-growing 
weeds.  Polygonums  are  equally  assertive,  possessing  stately 
growth,  handsome  foliage,  and  large  panicles  of  white  flowers. 
Pyrethrum  uliginosum  takes  care  of  itielf,  as  also  do  the 
Michaelmas  Daisies.  What  for  colour  can  match  the  herbaceous 
Pseonies  and  the  Oriental  Poppy  ?  For  bold  characters  in  leafage 
Rheum  officinale  has  few  superiors.  Variegated  Comfrey  tells 
well  amid  greenery,  and  Globe  Flowers  (Trollius  species)  out¬ 
rival  Buttercups  in  gras*.  Veratrums  grow  tall,  and  have  pyramidal 
spikes  of  white,  black,  and  green  flowers.  The  Golden  Rods  grow 
anywhere.  Hypericums  do  well  in  partial  shade,  H.  calycinum  or 
Rose  of  Sharon  forming  excellent  cover,  and  having  bright 
yellow  flowers  in  summer  and  autumn. 
Places  may  be  found  for  Honeysuckles,  rambling  Ro*es,  and  the 
commoner  Clematis,  near  unhealthy  bushes  or  trees,  and  becoming 
mounds  or  cones  of  beauty.  The  Dog  Rose  loses  none  of  its 
charms  when  Sweet  Briar  is  near,  and  even  shows  with  greater 
effect  where  Rosa  rugosa  is  present,  by  contrast  both  in  flower  and 
hep.  As  much  cannot  be  said  for  the  double-flowering  Cherry 
associated  with  the  wild  Gean,  but  Pyrus  spectabilis  goes  well  with 
the  blossom  of  the  Crab,  while  the  fruits  of  ornamental  Crabs  are 
charming.  The  Almond  blends  well  with  Blackthorn  blossom, 
and  the  dark  foliage  of  Prunus  Pissardi  makes  a  pleasing  distinction 
between  the  green  of  the  Sloe.  Pink  and  scarlet  Thorn  blossom 
enhance  that  of  the  pearly  white  May.  Hazel  bushes  show  all 
the  better  for  being  in  contrast  with  the  purple-leaved  variety. 
Berberis  dulcis,  B.  Darwini,  and  B.  stenophylla  provide  charming 
tints  of  contrasting  yellow  with  the  common  Barberry.  The  White 
Beam  tree  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  Bird  Cherry.  Weigelas 
associate  well  with  Dogwood  and  Laburnums.  Lilacs  always  impart 
beauty  to  the  copse,  and  Mock  Orange  throws  a  delicious  fragrance 
over  all.  White  Broom  enhances  the  effect  of  the  yellow,  and  the 
Snowball  renders  Mountain  Ash  more  lovely.  The  yellow,  white, 
and  red  Ribes  are  more  charming  than  the  wild  Gooseberry. 
Leycesteria  formosa  produces  dark  berries  in  the  autumn,  which 
hang  in  long  bunches  like  Grapes,  and  is  distinctly  ornamental.  For 
draping  with  a  warm  glow  of  colour  shrubs  of  the  copse  order  few 
plants  equal  Tropasolum  speciosum,  and  to  follow  this  the  bright 
foliage  and  festoons  of  the  Virginian  Creepers  on  trunks  of  effete 
trees  have  a  most  pleasing  effect. 
Then  there  is  the  wood.  It,  too,  may  be  improved  by  having 
in  the  open  places  great  breadths  of  Winter  Aconites,  Snowdrops, 
Daffodils,  and  others  of  the  flowers  mentioned  under  the  glade, 
with  common  Bracken  introduced  where  there  is  none,  also  other 
Ferns  in  the  shady  parts,  something  different  being  added  to  the 
ubiquitous  Bramble.  Periwinkles  will  grow  in  the  densest  shade, 
so  that  there  is  no  reason  for  not  having  cover.  Even  Ivy  is  much 
better  than  nothing,  including  groups  here  and  there  of  the  varie¬ 
gated  forms  for  contrast  and  change.  In  most  woods  there  are 
some  not  very  thriving  trees,  and  Ivy  generally  claims  them.  If 
these  are  in  open  places  the  Traveller’s  Joy  will  clamber  over 
them,  and  give  a  pleasing  change.  I  have  in  view  a  Spruce  Fir, 
50  feet  height,  overtopped  by  this  climber,  which  in  summer  is  a 
tower  of  beauty.  Great  woods  of  Firs,  not  one  native  except 
Scots,  are  extremely  monotonous  when  they  pervade  valley,  slope, 
and  hill. j  British  trees  outlive  and  outshine  in  beauty  and  useful¬ 
ness  those  introduced  from  other  climes,  yet  we  need  them  all,  and 
have  place  for  each,  not  to  wholly  displace,  but  to  associate  with 
and  enhance  the  beauty  of  our  native  trees. — G.  Abbey. 
SEAKALE  CULTURE. 
The  culture  of  Seakale,  or  rather  the  production  of  Seakale 
roots  in  quantity  annually  for  forcing  and  for  a  late  supply,  is  by 
no  means  a  difficult  task,  and  for  the  information  of  an  inquiring 
correspondent  I  am  pleased  to  give  a  short  account  of  the  simple 
method  employed  here.  As  far  as  I  am  aware  there  is  nothing 
new  in  the  cultural  methods  adopted,  or  that  it  differs  from  that 
employed  in  the  majority  of  other  gardens  where  Seakale  is  largely 
grown.  For  many  years  I  have  entirely  discarded  the  use  of 
pots  and  manure  as  a  means  of  forcing,  as  this  necessitated  growing 
the  roots  on  the  same  piece  of  ground  for  several  years,  and  the 
unsightliness  of  heaps  of  manure  could  scarcely  be  permitted  in 
the  kitchen  garden  proper,  and  must  of  necessity  be  relegated  to 
some  out-of  the-way  place.  By  planting  annually  a  large  stock  is 
easily  raised,  from  which  a  good  supply  of  Kale  may  be  maintained 
for  at  least  six  months — namely,  from  early  in  November  to  the 
May  following. 
The  correspondent  mentioned  wishes  to  know  (1)  when  the 
cuttings  are  taken,  (2)  when  planted,  (3)  where  blanched,  if  not 
in  the  open  ground,  (4)  whether  pots  are  used,  or  leaves  only  ? 
I  will,  therefore,  begin  the  season  with  the  first  lifting  of  fully 
developed  crowns  early  in  October,  and  finish  with  planting  and 
other  cultural  details.  As  early  forced  Seakale  is  usually  appre¬ 
ciated  roots  are  lifted  in  the  autumn  as  soon  as  the  leaves  will  part 
from  the  crowns,  which  they  usually  do  after  a  few  degrees  of 
frost ;  and  as  roots  of  all  kinds  start  into  growth  the  quicker  after 
a  perfect  rest,  they  are  forked  out  as  cleanly  as  possible  with  all  the 
rootlets  attached,  and  allowed  to  lie  on  the  surface  for  a  tew  days, 
and  should  a  frosty  night  or  two  occur  so  much  the  better.  These 
roots  are  introduced  to  a  dark,  warm,  enclosed  end  of  the  Mush¬ 
room  house,  and  planted  closely  together  in  light  soil.  The  early 
lifted  crowns  take  the  longest  time  to  produce  Kale  fit  for  use,  but 
the  first  or  second  week  in  November  is  about  the  usual  time  for 
