420 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May,  13,  1897. 
Manage,  Lord  Derby,  The  Queen,  Bismarck,  Alfriston,  and  Bramley’s 
Seedling  are  all  good. 
Some  varieties  of  Apples,  like  many  other  fruits,  refuse  to  bear  in 
one  locality,  and  are  most  prolific  in  other  places,  all  under  good  manage¬ 
ment.  That  the  form  of  training  and  stock  may  influence  the  growing 
and  fruiting  I  admit ;  but  still  some  will  not  bear  and  others  canker. 
The  worst  for  canker,  I  find,  are  Ribston  Pippin,  Tom  Putt,  Cellini, 
Lord  Derby,  Lord  Suffield,  Bismarck,  Alfriston,  and  Claygate  Pearmain  ; 
those  that  crop  the  lightest  are  Gravenstein,  Peasgood’s  Nonesuch, 
Blenheim  Pippin,  and  Moulton  Pippin. — W.  T.,  Ireland. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — Cherries  are  ripening  rapidly  in  the  house,  brought 
forward  gently  from  the  early  part  of  the  year,  and  the  fruit  must  be 
kept  dry  ;  but  air  moisture  is  necessary  for  the  health  of  the  trees,  and 
may  be  secured  by  damping  the  border  occasionally  with  the  syringe, 
air  being  admitted  constantly,  or  condensation  will  seriously  affect  the 
fruit.  Sprinkling  the  border  is  apt  to  mislead  as  regards  its  condition, 
which  at  this  stage  must  be  kept  moist,  therefore  if  necessary  a  thorough 
supply  of  water  must  be  afforded  without  delay.  Tie  in  the  shoots  as 
they  lengthen,  and  stop  those  not  required  for  training  at  the  fifth  leaf. 
Black  aphides  can  be  kept  under  by  dipping  and  rubbing  the  leaves  or 
shoots  in  tobacco  water.  Ventilate  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions, 
and  when  the  external  conditions  are  unfavourable  recourse  must  be  had 
to  the  heating  apparatus  to  insure  a  circulation  of  warm  dry  air. 
Netting  will  be  necessary  over  the  ventilators  to  prevent  birds  attacking 
the  Cherries. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  that  have  been  in  bearing  all  the  winter  will 
now  be  showing  signs  of  exhaustion.  Remove  them,  and  after  putting 
the  house  into  a  state  of  thorough  cleanliness,  taking  out  the  old  soil 
and  introducing  fresh  compost,  place  out  strong  healthy  young  plants 
without  delay.  These  will  come  into  bearing  quickly,  and  give  abund¬ 
ance  of  fruit  for  some  time.  Assist  young  plants  showing  signs  of 
weakness  by  removing  the  staminate  flowers  and  the  first  fruits,  stopping 
at  every  third  or  fourth  joint,  removing  all  weakly  and  surplus  growths. 
Plants  in  bearing  will  require  copious  supplies  of  water  and  liquid 
manure  or  top-dressingB  of  fertiliser  washed  in  moderately.  Extra 
vigour  may  be  secured  by  employing  a  little  nitrate  of  soda  in  the  water, 
but  not  more  than  half-ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  besides  it  acts  well 
against  eelworm.  It  is  better  to  mix  the  nitrate  of  soda  with  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  say  1  lb.  to  gallon,  and  let  stand  a  short  time,  then 
add  half  pint  of  the  solution  to  each  4  gallons  of  water  employed  for 
watering.  This  is  only  a  quarter  ounce  of  nitrate  of  soda  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  but  it  gives  excellent  results  in  both  quantity  and  colour  of  fruit. 
Shading  will  be  necessary  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  middle  of  the 
day  when  the  sun  is  hot,  especially  houses  facing  south,  but  shade  early 
to  prevent  flagging.  Houses  with  the  roof  lights  facing  east  and  west 
will  not  require  shading.  Little  or  no  fire  heat  will  be  required  by 
day,  shutting  off  the  valves  at  about  8  A.M.,  and  opening  them  again  at 
about  5  pm.  Syringe  the  plants  moderately  between  3  and  4  P.M., 
keeping  a  good  moisture  by  damping  the  floors.  If  aphides  appear 
fumigate  on  a  calm  evening  and  repeat  early  the  following  morning, 
having  the  foliage  dry,  but  the  floors  well  damped.  On  an  attack  of  red 
spider  remove  the  worst  infested  leaves,  and  syringe  the  plants  with 
petroleum  emulsion,  1  part  in  50  parts  water.  Guano  water,  1  lb.  in 
20  gallons  of  water,  may  be  used  occasionally  in  the  evening  to  charge 
the  atmosphere  with  ammonia  vapour,  or  liquid  manure  from  stables  or 
cow  houses,  diluted  with  five  or  six  times  its  bulk  of  water,  may  be  used 
for  the  same  purpose.  Either  may  be  applied  to  the  roots  about  twice 
a  week,  the  plants  not  being  allowed  to  suffer  through  insufficient 
supplies  of  water  and  nourishment  in  available  form.  If  mildew  appear 
dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  but  its  fumes  from  lightly  coating  the  hot- 
water  pipes  are  more  fatal  to  it  and  effective  also  against  red  spider  and 
white  fly. 
Seeds  may  be  sown  for  raising  plants  to  occupy  pits  and  frames. 
A  fair  bottom  heat  should  be  secured  by  using  the  less  decomposed 
material  from  Seakale,  Vine  borders,  or  exhausted  hotbeds,  which,  with 
about  a  fourth  of  fresh  material,  will  afford  all  the  bottom  heat  now 
required.  The  nights  lately  have  been  cold,  in  which  case  close  pits 
and  frames  as  early  in  the  afternoon  as  safe,  not  allowing  the  tempera¬ 
ture  to  exceed  90°,  95°,  or  100°,  and  afford  good  night  coverings.  See 
that  a  good  top  and  bottom  heat  is  maintained  by  duly  renewing  the 
linings. 
Figs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — When  the  first  crop  on  the 
very  early  varieties,  such  as  Early  Violet  and  St.  John’s,  are  gathered, 
return  to  the  treatment  applicable  to  trees  swelling  the  crops.  If  red 
spider  has  gained  a  footing  wash  the  leaves  with  a  solution  of  soluble 
petroleum  or  emulsion,  also  the  wood  where  there  is  any  scale,  dislodging 
it  with  a  brush,  syringing  the  trees  forcibly  on  fine  evenings  until  new 
growth  is  being  made  freely,  ordinarily  syringing  twice  a-day — in  the 
morning  and  early  afternoon.  Where  the  second  crop  is  thickly  set 
thin  liberally,  leaving  the  fruits  near  the  base  of  the  shoots,  and  to 
secure  a  full  first  crop  another  year  be  careful  not  to  overtax  the  trees. 
Expose  the  fruit  ripening  as  much  as  possible,  and  increase  the  ventila¬ 
tion.  This  will  be  the  case  with  Brown  Turkey — the  finest  of  Figs  for 
general  purposes  ;  and  where  its  second  crop  is  thickly  set  thin  the 
fruits  well,  as  there  is  no  danger  of  the  trees  casting  their  fruits  after 
this  period  if  they  are  well  attended  to  with  water  and  nourishment. 
Stop  the  shoots  and  thin  where  crowded,  for  vigorous  sturdy  shoots 
produce  the  finest  Figs. 
Planted-out  Trees. — The  earliest  started  have  the  fruit  approaching 
ripeness,  and  must  not  be  wetted,  maintaining  atmospherie  moisture  by 
keeping  the  mulching,  walls  and  paths,  properly  moistened.  Moisture 
can  be  prevented  from  condensing  on  the  fruit  by  maintaining  a*  steady 
circulation  of  air,  with  gentle  fire  heat.  Care  must  be  taken  to  afford 
plentiful  supplies  of  water  and  nutriment  at  the  roots.  When  this  is 
neglected  the  trees  become  infested  with  red  spider,  and  as  a  natural 
consequence  the  ripening  period  is  shortened,  and  the  second  crop  is 
puny,  rusty,  and  unsatisfactory.  Allow  the  leading  shoots  to  extend, 
unless  unduly  vigorous,  without  stopping  until  they  reach  the  extremity 
of  the  trellis,  then  stop  them,  and  cat  away  after  fruiting  to  make  room 
for  succeeding  fruitful  wood. 
Late  Houses.— Excellent  Figs  are  grown  in  unheated  houses,  pro¬ 
ducing  one  crop,  which  affords  an  acceptable  supply  of  fruit  in  August 
and  September.  The  trees  are  showing  plenty  of  fruit.  With  the  roots 
confined  to  moderate  space  within  the  house,  the  border  concreted,  and 
thoroughly  drained  with  broken  bricks  and  old  lime  rubbish,  they  should 
have  very  copious  supplies  of  water,  and  be  syringed  twice  a  day.  In 
cloudy  weather,  however,  the  afternoon  syringing  should  be  dispensed 
with,  and  in  bright  weather  it  may  be  performed  early,  with  all  the  sun 
heat  that  can  be  shut  in  to  insure  the  proper  dryiDg  of  the  foliage  before 
nightfall.  The  young  growths  in  these  structures  should  be  trained  a 
good  d  stance  apart,  every  growth  having  full  exposure  to  light  and  air, 
so  as  to  secure  sturdy  fruitful  wood. 
Melons. — The  fruits  always  have  flavour  in  degree  of  the  solar 
heat,  and  the  weather  lately  has  been  all  that  the  early  Melon  grower 
desires.  The  days  have  been  bright  though  the  air  has  been  cold, 
necessitating  the  employment  of  fires,  especially  at  night,  as  it  is  a  great 
mistake  to  allow  too  great  a  difference  between  the  day  and  night  tem¬ 
peratures.  Maintain  70°  as  the  minimum,  though  65°  or  even  60°  will  do 
no  harm  when  the  nights  are  unusually  cold  and  the  days  bright,  70°  to 
75°  by  day  being  secured  artificially,  admitting  a  little  air  at  and  above 
the  latter,  allowing  an  advance  to  85°  or  90°,  and  closing  early  so  as  to 
secure  a  temperature  of  90°  or  95°  for  some  time.  Keep  plenty  of 
atmospheric  moisture  in  houses  containing  young  growing  plants  or 
those  swelling  their  fruit,  .gently  damping  the  walls,  floor,  as  well  as 
foliage,  and  closing  about  3.30  p.h.,  or  as  early  as  safe.  Feed  plants 
liberally  that  have  their  fruit  swelling,  not  allowing  them  to  suffer 
through  insufficient  supplies  of  water,  and  afford  weak  liquid  manure  or 
moderate  top-dressings  of  fertilisers  washed  in.  Fertilise  all  pistillate 
flowers  daily,  insuring  a  somewhat  dry  condition  of  the  atmosphere, 
not  using  the  knife  during  that  period,  but  pinch  out  the  points  of  the 
shoots  at  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Earth  up  plants  that 
have  set  their  fruits,  and  examine  them  frequently  for  the  removal  of 
superfluous  growths,  not  allowing  them  to  interfere  with  the  principal 
foliage.  Shade  as  little  as  possible,  and  only  to  prevent  flagging. 
When  the  fruit  is  cut  from  the  earliest  plants  the  old  stem  may  be 
cut  to  a  strong  shoot  near  its  base,  removing  as  much  of  the  old  soil  as 
can  be  picked  out  from  amongst  the  roots,  adding  fresh  in  its  place, 
rather  lumpy,  and  well  pressed  down,  giving  a  good  watering.  If  a 
moist  atmosphere  is  maintained,  and  the  plants  are  syringed  in 
the  morning  and  about  4  P  M.,  they  will  soon  start  freely,  showing 
fruit  in  much  less  time  then  by  starting  afresh.  If  they  have  healthy 
growths  they  need  not  be  cut  down  so  closely,  but  laterals  taken  at 
suitable  distances,  and  the  old  shortened  or  cut  away,  the  fresh  laterals 
will  show  fruit  at  a  few  joints  of  growth.  If,  however,  the  plants  are 
affected  with  canker,  or  from  carrying  too  heavy  crops  at  first,  a 
deficiency  of  water,  or  attacks  of  insects  are  much  enfeebled,  it  is  better 
to  remove  them,  thoroughly  cleansing  the  house,  placing  strong  plantain 
ridges  or  hillocks. 
Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames. — Grand  fruits  are  grown  in  these  simple 
structures.  The  thing  is  to  keep  the  fruit  clear  of  the  soil  and  fully 
exposed  to  the  sun  by  raising  them  on  inverted  flower  pots  with  a  piece 
of  slate  intervening,  as  the  moisture  from  the  bed  is  apt  to  accumulate 
in  the  pot,  and  rising  through  the  hole  cause  the  fruit  laid  upon  it  to 
decay  at  that  part.  Admit  air  freely,  and  water  only  to  prevent  the 
foliage  flagging.  If  a  second  crop  is  desired  encourage  about  four  shoots 
from  each  plant  at  the  base  of  the  stems  now  bearing,  and  when  the 
fruit  is  cut  the  old  growths  may  be  removed  and  young  shoots  substituted. 
These  will  show  fruit  on  the  first  laterals,  every  alternate  lateral  being 
rubbed  off  to  prevent  crowding.  If  a  top-dressing  of  fresh  compost  is 
given  the  plants  will  be  assisted  to  make  a  second  growth. 
A  useful  crop  of  Melons  may  be  obtained  by  making  up  beds  now 
of  any  spent  material,  which  with  mixing  and  turning  will  generate 
a  gentle  warmth,  placing  over  it  frames  that  have  been  used  for 
Potatoes  and  bedding  plants,  and  in  each  light  a  barrowful  of  any  strong 
loam  mixed  with  some  old  mortar  rubbish  or  road  scrapings  if  deficient 
in  grit,  pressing  it  down  firmly  ;  into  this,  when  warmed  through,  turn 
out  a  strong  healthy  plant,  pressing  the  soil  firmly  about  the  roots,  and 
giving  a  good  watering.  If  pits  are  employed  the  surface  of  the  soil 
must  be  brought  up  to  a  foot  from  the  glass  and  the  materials  firmed 
well,  so  as  to  prevent  much  settling.  If  the  weather  be  bright  shade 
