May  20,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
•  are  formed  ;  how  by  rock  decay,  plug  the  et-ceteras,  we  are  blessed 
with  a  food  supply,  whereby  the  herbage  of  the  earth  finds  sustenance. 
A  fertile  soil  should  contain  from  9  to  15  per  cent,  of  humus — i.e.. 
vegetable  mould,  and  85°  or  90°  of  mineral  matter.  Thus  soils  are 
chiefly  composed  of  humates,  phosphates,  silicates,  carbonates,  nitrates, 
and  other  combinations.  Ammonia  and  carbonic  acid  gases  permeate 
the  whole,  or  ought  to,  if  we  are  to  have  a  productive  agent.  When  au 
-  acid  such  as  phosphoric  acid  combines  with  another  (H3P04)  substance 
its  last  letters,  "ic,"  are  changed  to  "ate" — phosphoric  acid  and 
.  potash  =  potassic  phosphate. 
A  sandy  loam  is  cultural  desideratum,  unfortunately  not  often  met 
with.  In  cases  of  heavy  clay  lands  artificial  means  must  be  applied 
to  obtain  from  it  the  hoarded  constituents.  Drainage  in  such  a  case 
is  of  infinite  value.  All  land  on  which  water  remains  longer 
than  two  hours  after  rainfall  requires  our  aid  to  free  it  from  stag¬ 
nation.  Drains  are  placed  2  feet  deep  on  very  heavy  land,  and  deeper 
according  to  texture.  On  medium  soil  drains  might  be  9  feet  apart, 
never  less  than  4  feet  deep,  and  having  a  fall  of  from  1  foot  in  50  to 
1 1  in  150.  The  main  drain  or  outlet  must  always  be  determined  before 
cutting  operations  commence.  I  have  only  had  opportunity  of  seeing 
tile  drains  laid,  although  I  believe  that  large  flat  stones  placed  tri¬ 
angularly  or  square  when  well  firmed,  and  the  soil  beaten  tightly  over 
and  under  them,  are  suitable  and  efficient  where  stones  are  plentiful. 
The  “  run  ”  of  drains  generally  goes  with  the  slope  of  the  land. 
1  am  not  sufficiently  well  acquainted  with  the  details  of  measuring, 
levelling,  and  tile  laying  to  give  all  information.  Suffice  it  to  say  that, 
having  marked  off  the  drain  lines,  and  having  all  tools  ready,  set  to  work, 
and  continue  to  work  well  and  with  accuracy,  straight  and  clean  ; 
lay  the  tiles  firm  and  close  ;  see  that  sufficient  fall  is  allowed  ;  place 
over  each  tile  a  turf,  and  fill  in  the  worst  quality  of  soil  over  the  turf. 
Do  not  scatter  the  surplus  soil  after  filling  in  the  drain,  remember  the 
sinkage.  Thus  briefly  have  we  outlined  a  system  of  drainage,  the  good 
■effect  of  which  we  shall  inquire  into. — A  Young  Scot. 
(To  be  continued.) 
Cinerarias. 
Every  gardener  is  familiar  with  this  attractive  winter  and  spring- 
flowering  plant.  It  is  useful  to  the  private  gardener  for  house  decora 
tion,  for  a  display  of  bloom  in  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory,  and  also 
for  cutting.  It  is  useful  to  the  market  grower  as  a  sale  plant,  for  making 
dnto  sprays  and  other  purposes. 
Cinerarias  are  easily  raised  from  seeds,  or  offsets  taken  from  the  old 
iplants  ;  but  the  latter  method  is  only  practised  in  the  case  of  named  and 
double  varieties.  Seeds  are  sown  at  different  periods,  ranging  from 
April  to  July,  according  to  the  time  the  plants  are  required  to  flower. 
Sow  thinly  in  pans,  comprising  a  mixture  of  sifted  loam,  leaf  Boil,  and  a 
small  quantity  of  sand,  previously  watered.  Cover  the  pans  with  a 
sheet  of  glass,  and  place  in  a  cool  position,  never  allowing  the  soil  to  get 
dry.  Seedlings  will  soon  appear,  and  when  large  enough  to  handle  they 
can  be  pricked  into  pans,  containing  the  same  kind  of  compost  as  before. 
The  next  move  required  by  the  plants  will  be  into  large  60  s,  taking 
care  to  secure  as  much  soil  with  the  roots  as  possible. 
After  potting  arrange  the  plants  in  a  cool  frame  containing  a  layer  of 
ashes  or  some  other  material  to  afford  a  moist  base  for  the  pots  to  stand 
on.  The  frame  should  be  kept  rather  close  for  a  short  time,  the 
plants  shaded  from  the  sun,  and  also  frequently  syringed.  When  the 
roots  have  filled  the  small  pots  the  plants  may  be  transferred  to  the  size 
in  which  they  are  required  to  flower,  6  and  7-inch  pots  usually  being 
employed.  Suitable  soil  for  potting  this  time  is  a  mixture  of  fibry  loam, 
broken  into  lumps  about  the  size  of  a  Walnut,  leaf  soil,  silver  sand, 
with  a  little  dried  cow  manure  added.  The  plants  may  be  arranged  in 
frames  as  before,  and  as  soon  as  the  roots  take  possession  of  the  new  soil 
air  must  be  freely  admitted. 
During  bright  weather  a  shading  of  tiffany  is  helpful,  and  syringing 
twice  or  thrice  a  day  beneficial.  As  soon  as  the  flower  heads  appear 
weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given,  also  an  occasional  top-dressing  with 
artificial  manure  will  be  found  beneficial  to  the  plants. 
If  large  flowers  are  required  disbudding  may  be  practised,  removing 
one-third  of  the  buds,  taking  care  that  these  are  the  smaller.  Disbudding 
is  always  required  in  the  double  varieties. 
Cinerarias  are  liable  to  attacks  of  green  fly  and  mildew.  The  former 
can  be  removed  by  fumigating  with  the  XL  fumigator,  or  with  tobacco, 
and  the  latter  by  dusting  the  plants  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  or  by 
syringing  them  lightly  over  with  a  solution  of  Calvert’s  carbolic  softsoap 
at  the  strength  of  2  ozs.  of  soap  to  a  gallon  of  rain  water. — 
Elveden. 
Magnolia  stellata. — This  is  the  earliest  of  the  hardy  Magnolias 
to  open  its  blossoms.  As  early  as  the  middle  of  March  the  flowers 
began  to  open,  and  before  the  end  of  the  month  the  plants  were 
one  mass  of  pure  white  blossoms.  The  flowers  are  star-shaped,  and 
average  from  3  to  4  inches  across.  They  are  produced  with  great 
freedom,  plants  2  feet  high  by  ]£  foot  through  often  having  from 
twenty  to  thirty  fully  expanded  blossoms  on  them  at  one  time.  In 
England  it  attains  a  height  of  from  3  to  4  feet,  and  assumes  rather  a 
stunted  habit  of  growth,  possibly  due  to  the  freedom  with  which  the 
flowers  are  produced.  When  planting  a  mixture  of  peat  and  loam 
should  be  given,  and  care  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots.  For  forcing 
this  plant  is  admirable,  the  waxy  star-shaped  flowers  making  a  striking 
contrast  to  many  otberB  which  are  used  for  a  similar  purpose.  A  bed 
of  this  charming  Japanese  shrub  is  to  be  seen  outside  the  temperate 
House  at  Kew. — W.  D. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Thinning-  and  Regulating-  Young-  Growths. — When  the  dis¬ 
budding  of  fruit  trees,  especially  those  which  require  constant  and 
regular  attention  in  this  respect  in  the  early  stages,  has  been  neglected 
and  the  superfluous  shoots  have  been  allowed  to  extend  too  far  before 
attempting  their  entire  removal,  gradual  thinning  with  the  knife  must 
be  resorted  to.  It  is  not  nearly  so  easy  to  insure  good  results  with 
Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  Morello  Cherries  when  the  thinning 
and  regulation  of  the  growths  are  not  adopted  early,  so  that  those  shoots 
finally  retained  may  have  the  full  benefit  of  light  and  air.  On  the  other 
hand  the  reduction  of  the  number  of  shoots  ought  not  to  be  too  severely 
carried  out.  It  is  best  to  retain  more  than  are  actually  wanted  for 
fruiting.  This  provides  a  good  selection  at  the  winter  pruning,  when 
the  best  can  be  nailed  in  and  the  remainder  cut  out. 
Plums  and  Sweet  Cherries. — The  laying  in  of  young  shoots 
wherever  wall  space  is  available  for  them  to  be  developed  and  perfected 
without  crowding  is  a  good  method  of  insuring  a  fruitful  condition  of 
the  trees.  Similar  shoots,  however,  laid  in  in  the  previous  year  may  not 
show  a  decided  tendency  to  form  fruiting  spurs  all  their  length,  but 
rather  to  produce  young  growths.  Whether  these  side  growths  are  few 
or  many  they  will,  if  left  to  extend,  more  or  less  crowd  the  trees.  All 
such  had  better  be  pinched  at  the  third  large  leaf.  This  greatly  assists 
in  concentrating  the  vigour  in  the  formation  of  artificial  spur  growths. 
The  upper  buds  of  these  shortened  shoots  will  almost  certainly  start  into 
growth — lateral  growth — which  must  be  pinched  back  to  the  first  leaf. 
Growths  will  again  start  from  these.  This  is  termed  sub-lateral  growth , 
and  as  often  as  made  should  be  pinched  to  the  first  leaf  throughout  the 
season.  Prune  the  whole  back  to  the  lower  bud  or  buds  near  the  main 
branch  in  winter.  Artificial  spurs  are  formed  in  this  way.  Short, 
stubby,  natural  spurs  require  no  shortening. 
Thinning-  Fruit. — Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines  should  have 
the  first  thinning  of  the  young  fruits  when  the  latter  have  attained  to 
the  size  of  horse  Beans.  Those  most  advanced  in  swelling  are  the  best 
to  retain,  because  they  are  properly  fertilised.  Remove  the  small,  weak, 
and  ill-placed  fruits  first.  This  thinning  will  suffice  for  a  time,  or  until 
the  fruits  reach  the  size  of  Hazel  Nuts,  when  they  ought  again  to  be 
looked  over,  removing  the  least  promisiug.  If  the  fruits  have  not  set 
very  thickly  the  earlier  thinnings  may  be  dispensed  with.  It  will,  how¬ 
ever,  be  useless  to  retain  fruits  in  unsuitable  positions  where  they  have 
not  room  to  swell  properly.  In  light  cropped  trees  these  only  need 
removal.  Early  gatherings  of  Gooseberries  may  now  be  made.  The 
berries  are  useful  for  tarts,  and  by  some  are  preferred  when  rather 
small.  These  pickings  suffice  to  thin  the  bushes. 
Mulching-  Fruit  Trees. — Trees  and  bushes  promising  to  bear  full 
crops  of  fruit  may  be  assisted  materially  in  perfecting  the  fruit  if  th»* 
soil  over  the  roots  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  short  manure.  Spread  it 
about  an  inch  thick  as  far  as  the  roots  extend,  adding  to  it,  if  necessary, 
at  intervals  throughout  the  season.  The  beneficial  effects  of  a  mulch 
over  the  roots  in  a  dry  season  are  apparent  in  the  moist  condition  of  the 
soil.  Short  grass  also  affords  material  for  mulching,  though  it  does  not 
contribute  any  support  to  the  roots,  or  enrich  the  soil  until  thoroughly 
decomposed.  Trees  that  are  fruitless  ought  not  to  be  freely  mulched 
with  rich  manure  if  they  are  making  strong  growths,  but  if  weakly  a 
liberal  dressing  will  prove  most  beneficial.  Young  trees  recently 
planted  must  be  lightly  mulched,  so  that  the  rapid  evaporation  of 
moisture  from  the  surface  soil  may  be  arrested.  The  roots  of  Rasp¬ 
berries  and  Currant  bushes  multiply  abundantly  near  the  surface  when 
it  is  kept  cool  and  moist  with  layers  of  good  manure. 
Strawberries  produce  strong  flower  trusses,  which  open  and  set  freely 
when  the  plants  are  supported  with  a  mulching  of  manure  between  the 
rows.  It  also  obviously  assists  the  fruit  to  swell  up  to  a  large  size,  and 
prolongs  the  season  of  fruiting. 
Watering-  Strawberries.  —  In  very  dry  weather  Strawberries, 
even  when  mulched,  will  be  benefited  by  applications  of  water  to  the 
roots  during  the  time  the  plants  are  in  flower  and  setting  fruit.  Liquid 
manure  may  also  be  given,  though  in  a  clear  state,  and  avoid  discolour¬ 
ing  the  fruit; 
Watering-  Wall  Trees. — The  soil  at  the  base  of  walls,  in  which 
the  roots  of  fruit  trees  extend,  is  subject  to  considerable  drying  influences. 
The  foundation  of  the  wall  allows  moisture  to  drain  away  readily,  while 
the  large  expanse  of  foliage  abstracts  a  great  amount  of  the  water  which 
the  roots  take  in  from  the  soil.  This  demand  upon  the  soil  moisture 
will  continue  through  the  season,  increasing  rather  than  diminishing  ; 
therefore,  before  the  trees  begin  to  feel  the  effects  of  dryness,  apply  a 
liberal  soaking  of  water  to  the  roots.  Lack  of  moisture  in  the  soil  is 
frequently  the  cause  of  young  fruits  falling  prematurely,  and  others 
failing  to  swell.  Much  of  the  moisture  thus  applied  may  be  conserved 
by  giving  a  dry  mulch  afterwards. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  House. — When  the  trees  of 
Alexander,  Waterloo,  and  Early  Louise  Peaches,  with  Cardinal  and 
Early  Rivers  Nectarines  are  cleared  of  the  fruit,  the  shoots  on  which  the 
