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JOURNAL  OP  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  26, 189?. 
TRADE  CATALOGUE  RECEIVED. 
Kelway  &  Son,  Lingport. — Plants. 
°0°  All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor/’  8,  Rose  Bill 
Road,  Wandsworth,  London,  <S.JF\  It  is  requested  that  no 
one  will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing 
so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and 
departmental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters 
they  may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects,  through  the 
post.  If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from 
any  particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be 
made  to  obtain  it  by  the  Editor. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions 
relating  to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should 
never  send  more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All 
articles  intended  for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of 
the  paper  only.  We  cannot,  as  a  rule,  reply  to  questions  through 
the  post,  and  we  do  not  undertake  to  return  communications 
which,  for  any  reason,  cannot  be  inserted. 
Crapes  not  Swelling1  (No  Name).  —  Names  and  addresses  of 
correspondents  should  be  sent.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  vigorous  young 
Vines  to  fail  to  set  the  beriies  freely.  The  samples  sent  shall  be 
examined  more  carefully  than  there  is  time  for  before  going  to  press. 
In  the  meantime  perhaps  the  name  of  the  Bender  may  be  forthcoming. 
Decorative  Pelargoniums  (H.  K). — If  you  read  what  we  say 
below  on  packing  flowers  you  will  find  you  used  the  worst  material — dry 
cotton  wool.  The  petals  fell  off  the  moment  it  was  removed  from  them  ; 
whereas  if  soft  green  leaves  had  been  used  instead  the  flowers  would 
have  been  firm  and  fresh.  We  can,  however,  see  that  there  are  many 
varieties  in  cultivation  superior  to  your  seedlings,  attractive  as  they  are 
for  decorative  puiposes. 
Vine  Deaves  Blistered  (J.  D). — The  very  fine  leaves  are 
blistered  by  a  sudden  admission  of  cold  air,  which  caused  a  chill,  and 
being  afterwards  followed  by  more  genial  conditions  the  sap  rushed  to 
the  affected  part  and  caused  an  enlargement  or  growth  of  new  cells  to 
repair  the  injury.  This  results  in  a  thickening  of  the  tissues,  and  the 
rusted  appearance  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Although  this  is 
better  avoided,  as  it  may  by  timely  and  judicious  early  ventilation,  the 
Vines  are  not  materially  prejudiced,  especially  when  they  glow  with 
health  as  yours  do,  being  deep  glossy  green  on  the  upper  surface,  of  stout 
texture,  and  perfectly  clean.  You  have  no  need  to  feel  alarmed,  only 
attend  carefully  to  the  ventilation,  aod  avoid  cold  currents  of  air.  This 
is  difficult  to  attain  daring  the  cold  weather  that  has  lately  prevailed, 
and  especially  in  situations  near  the  sea,  as  the  sun  comes  oat  power¬ 
fully  after  a  period  of  dull  weather,  heating  the  enclosed  atmosphere  in 
a  very  short  time.  As  this  means  expansion  of  moisture  there  is 
excessive  evaporation  from  the  leaves  when  air  is  admitted,  which 
gives  rise  to  the  blister  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  through  the 
contraction  and  subsequent  enlargement  of  the  tissues.  Keeping  the 
high  temperature  would  be  likely  to  aggravate  the  evil,  but  the  cause  is 
a  chill,  and  that  more  likely  to  be  given  on  account  of  the  greater  heat 
during  dull  or  cold  weather. 
Brompton  Stocks  ( Kewhurst ), — You  appear  to  have  sown  the 
seeds  between  two  and  three  months  too  soon.  It  is  not  the  first 
mistake  of  the  kind  by  any  means.  We  have  known  some  plants  thus 
raised  to  flower  in  the  autnmn  ;  a  few  of  those  that  did  not  produced 
magnificent  spikes  the  following  year,  but  the  great  majority  succumbed 
to  frost.  Your  object  should  be  to  grow  the  plants  slowly  in  hard  and 
rather  poor  soil  in  a  thoroughly  exposed  position,  and  a  sufficient 
distance  apart  that  the  sun  and  air  can  have  free  play  amongst  them. 
They  will  then  assume  a  sturdy  habit  and  develop  woody  stems,  in  the 
best  condition  for  resisting  frost.  If  they  are  grown  in  loose  rich  soil 
in  a  sheltered  position,  and  also  in  the  least  crowded,  the  plants  will  be 
tall,  succulent,  and  tender,  to  be  almost  certainly  killed  in  the  winter. 
Hard  soil  containing  lime  is  the  best  for  the  plants  in  the  summer,  and 
even  then  the  growth  may  be  luxuriant  towards  the  autumn,  in  which 
case  it  is  a  good  plan  to  drive  a  spade  down  4  or  5  inches  from  the 
plants  and  sever  the  roots,  half  round  each  plant  at  first,  doing  the  other 
half  a  week  or  so  afterwards  if  a  further  check  seems  necessary.  We 
have  seen  the  plants  established  in  5-inch  pots,  these  plunged  over 
their  rims  in  the  open  ground  in  the  Bummer,  withdrawing  them  on  the 
approach  of  frost,  and  wintering  them  in  cold  frames.  The  end  of 
May  or  early  in  June  is  a  good  time  for  sowing  seeds  of  Brompton 
Stocks  in  the  open  air.  The  plants  get  quite  large  enough  for  standing 
the  winter  and  flowering  in  due  time.  Perhaps  you  had  better  sow  a 
little  more  seed  in  view  of  the  possible  failure  of  your  present  plants. 
Peach  Trees  Casting  Their  Deaves  (II.  S). — The  leaves  are 
injured  by  the  sun  acting  powerfully  upon  them  whilst  wet,  the  tissues 
in  some  parts  being  practically  destroyed,  and  the  points  of  the  shoots 
in  some  cases  blackened.  The  fumes  given  off  would  to  a  certain  extent 
cause  the  leaves  to  fall,  as  frequently  occurs  after  fumigation,  the  leaves 
of  Peaches  and  Nectarines  being  very  susceptible  to  injury  when 
growing.  The  fruits  are  infested  with  mildew,  which  certainly  has  not 
been  killed  by  the  specific  used  on  one  of.  the  Peaches  before  us,  and  on 
the  others  it  has  so  sunk  into  the  diseased  parts  as  to  destroy  the  tissues 
to  a  considerable  depth.  This,  however,  may  be  partly  due  to  the  sun 
acting  on  the  fruit  whilst  covered  with  the  solution.  The  growths  are 
very  Bappy,  long-jointed,  and  pushing  laterals  at  every  axil.  This 
would  render  them  more  liable  to  injury;  indeed,  such  growths  suffer 
most  from  fumes,  producing  a  sort  of  scorching,  and  any  sudden  or  severe 
check  causes  the  leaves  to  fall.  What  the  trees  wanted  were  more  air, 
less  moisture  in  the  atmosphere,  and  steadier  supplies  of  nourishment  at 
the  roots.  Lifting  would  do  them  much  good,  saving  them  from  the  ill- 
health  and  sterility  into  which,  if  the  shoot  before  us  be  a  fair  specimen, 
the  trees  are  assuredly  drifting.  We  give  you  this  hint  for  thoughtful 
consideration.  In  the  meanwhile  ventilate  early,  leaving  a  chink  for 
air  at  the  top  of  the  house  constantly,  enlarging  this  before  the  sun  acts 
powerfully  on  the  house,  not  to  lower  the  temperature,  but  allow  the 
atmosphere  to  heat  evenly  with  the  increased  sun  heat.  It  certainly 
was  not  advisable  to  use  the  specific  in  the  morning,  nor  three  days  in 
succession.  For  mildew  on  Peaches  we  have  found  dusting  them  with 
flowers  of  sulphur  effective,  making  sure  that  the  affected  parts  are 
reached  by  rubbing  the  sulphur  on  them  by  means  of  the  fingers.  We 
advise  this  now,  and  though  it  will  not  restore  the  damaged  parts,  it 
will  not  cause  so  much  injury  as  the  specific  has  done,  aided  by  the 
sun  and  improper  administration. 
Soil  for  Cucumbers  Treated  with  Dime  (A.  G.  W.). — The 
sample  of  soil  contains  quite  sufficient  lime  to  correct  the  excess  of 
humus,  and  give  a  steady  supply  of  nitrate  of  lime,  which  is  what  the 
plants  really  require,  and  that  will  come  fast  enough,  as  the  nitrifying 
micro-organisms  appear  exceedingly  active,  the  soil  swarming  with  them. 
There  are  also  both  eelworms  and  the  sclerotia  of  the  smother  fungus, 
Sclerotinia  sclerotiorum,  but  as  the  lime  acts  on  the  organic  matter 
they  will  have  a  poor  chance,  especially  if  you  use  Little’s  soluble 
phenyle,  1  gill  (quarter  pint)  to  3  gallons  of  soft  water,  as  it  kills  both 
the  parasites  and  aids  the  growth  of  the  Cucumbers,  giving  value  for 
outlay  as  a  manure.  Another  good  dressing  for  both  eelworms  and 
smother  fungus  is  basic  slag,  10  parts  or  lbs.,  kainit  5  parts  or  lbs  ,  bone 
meal  1  part  or  lb.,  sulphate  of  iron  half  part  or  lb  mixed,  using  4  ozs. 
(or  8  ozs.  if  before  planting,  forking  into  the  soil)  per  square  yard, 
washing  in  moderately.  Tnis  may  be  repeated  at  intervals  of  about 
three  weeks,  supplying  nitrogen  in  liquid  form,  say  nitrate  of  soda 
£  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  taking  care  not  to  overdo  this,  but  being 
guided  by  the  vigour  of  the  plants,  it  being  better  to  under  rather 
than  overdo  the  nitrate  applications.  A  first-rate  Cucumber  grower 
has  a  tank  holding  36  gallons  of  water,  and  as  this  comes  in  cold  into 
the  house  he  puts  into  the  tank  a  good  handful  (about  \  lb.)  of  nitrate 
of  soda,  and  lets  the  whole  stand  full  of  water  until  warmed  to  the 
same  temperature  of  the  house  before  watering  the  Cucumbers  with  it, 
or  if  wanted  sooner  supplies  the  requisite  amount  of  hot  water.  The 
water  only  contains  about  £  oz.  of  nitrate  of  soda  per  gallon,  and  he 
says — his  crops  verifying  the  statement — that  it  is  quite  strong  enough 
for  general  use,  and  the  Cucumbers  like  it,  judging  by  their  quantity 
and  colour.  We  ask  that  you  will  uBe  discriminative  judgment,  not 
overdosing  the  plants  by  using  all  the  things  at  once,  but  in  moderation, 
and  at  varied  intervals,  for  plants  like  changes  of  sound  food,  not 
surfeits. 
Pests  Infesting  Melon  House  (T.  K.  M.). — The  insects  are 
the  common  woodlice,  Ociscus  asellus.  They  are  voracious,  and  fond  of 
most  things  of  a  tender  nature  grown  in  gardens,  especially  Mushrooms, 
Beedling  Cucumbers,  Melons,  Tomatoes,  roots  of  Orchids,  and  more 
than  a  taste  of  luscious  fruits.  The^are  very  fond  of  bran.  A  farmer 
noticing  how  they  swarmed  under  empty  bran  bags  thrown  on  the  floor 
of  an  outhouse  took  the  hint,  and  spread  the  bags  on  the  floors  of  his 
Cucumber  and  Tomato  houses  at  night,  for  he  was  a  market  gardener  as 
well  as  farmer,  and  in  the  morning  had  some  pails  of  boiling  water 
ready,  which  one  person  used,  whilst  another  folded  up  the  bran  bags, 
carried  them  off,  and  shook  them  out  in  front  of  the  farmyard  poultry 
before  they  were  fed.  This  plan  answered  splendidly,  the  empty  bran 
bags  being  placed  on  the  floor  each  evening  for  a  time,  and  removed 
early  in  the  morning.  Another  plan,  and  very  effective,  is  to  procure 
some  old  dry  half-rotten  boards,  cut  them  into  convenient  even  lengths, 
and  place  or  e  board  on  the  top  of  the  other  near  where  the  woodlice  haunt. 
As  the  boards  do  not  lie  evenly  there  will  be  sufficient  space  for  the 
woodlice  to  get  between  them,  or  if  not,  form  a  slight  space  by  placing 
a  small  stone  at  one  end,  so  as  to  form  a  cavity.  If  a  little  bran  be 
sprinkled  on  the  lower  board  the  woodlice  like  it  all  the  better.  Examine 
the  boards  every  morning,  and  if  you  like  to  carry  them  away  and  spread 
the  contents  before  poultry  there  will  soon  be  an  end  of  them,  otherwise 
sprinkle  the  pests  with  boiling  water.  Another  good  plan  is  to  place  a 
little  food,  such  as  boiled  Potatoes,  bran,  or  pollard  on  the  ground,  in  the 
angle  formed  by  it  and  the  wall,  covered  loosely  with  hay,  and  in  the 
morning  pour  boiling  water  thereon.  We  have  known  woodlice  congre¬ 
gate  in  the  angle  of  a  Mushroom  bed  wall  an  inch  thick,  and  one  dose 
of  boiling  water  destroy  thousands,  without  material  injury  to  the 
Mushroom  beds.  It  answers  equally  well  elsewhere,  taking  care  to  bait 
in  places  where  the  boiling  water  can  be  used  effectively  without  injury 
to  useful  plants. 
