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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  27,  18&7. 
If  seed  be  saved  at  home  and  therefore  plentiful,  three  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  a  pot,  and  if  they  all  germinate,  reduce  the  plants  to  one, 
retaining  the  strongest ;  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough,  top- 
dress  with  loam  pressed  firmly  into  the  pot,  and  to  each  plant  affix  a  small 
stake.  Care  must  be  taken,  as  in  potting  all  plants,  that  sufficient  space 
be  left  to  hold  water  enough  to  percolate  through  the  whole  mass  of 
soil.  Many  growers  recommend  plunging  the  seed  pots  in  a  hotbed. 
This,  without  doubt,  hastens  germination  and  root  action,  though  the 
plants  may  not  be  quite  so  strong  and  sturdy  as  they  would  be  without 
this  aid.  We  rarely  plunge  them  for  fear  of  cockroaches  and  woodlice, 
but  place  them  on  a  shelf  in  the  Pine  stove,  and  generally  cover  each 
pot  with  a  small  piece  of  glass  and  shade  with  a  newspaper.  This  is 
removed  as  soon  as  the  plants  appear,  but  shading  is  applied  when 
necessary.  As  the  small  pots  become  fairly  filled  with  roots,  the  plants 
may  be  transferred  to  5  or  6-inch  pots,  which  must  in  all  cases  be  per¬ 
fectly  clean  and  dry.  Use  good  fibrous  loam,  pot  firmly,  and  assign  the 
plants  a  light  position,  shading  as  required  until  they  are  able  to  stand 
the  force  of  the  sun.  This  applies  also  after  they  are  planted  in  their 
permanent  quarters.  The  plants  must  never  be  allowed  to  suffer 
through  drought. 
We  will  leave  these  plants  to  grow  apace  whilst!  we  consider  the 
preparation  of  the  bed,  where  they  will  eventually  be  planted.  In  days 
gone  by,  and  even  at  the  present  time,  beds  were  and  are  to  my  mind 
very  much  larger  than  the  needs  of  the  plants  require,  whereby  a  far 
greater  amount  of  risk  to  canker  is  run  and  much  greater  care  needed 
in  the  application  of  water  than  where  the  roots  are  more  restricted, 
although  the  watering  of  Melons  is  an  important  item  at  all  times  in 
their  successful  culture.  Bottom  heat  is,  without  doubt,  of  great  benefit 
where  fruit  is  required  very  early. 
I  will  now  endeavour  to  describe  our  Melon  beds,  which  are  boxes 
and  troughs — some  made  of  wood,  others  of  portable  slates.  For  many 
years  Melons  have  been  grown  successfully  at  Grimston  in  slate  boxes 
or  troughs,  placed  about  a  foot  above  the  hot-water  pipes,  in  what  were 
span-roofed  Pine  stoves.  They  have  lately  been  removed  to  another 
house,  where  instead  of  the  pipes  being  under  them  they  run  close  along 
the  back.  These  boxes  are  6  feet  long,  1  foot  8  inches  deep,  and  about 
2  feet  wide,  sides  and  ends  removable.  The  crops  produced  from  these 
boxes  have  invariably  been  good.  The  boxes  are  always  heavily  drained. 
We  also  grow  Melons  in  a  wooden  box,  16  inches  deep  and  18  inches 
wide,  with  capital  results. 
Our  second  crop  last  year,  which  ripened  about  the  middle  of  June, 
was  grown  between  three  11-inch  boards,  3  inches  extra  being  allowed 
in  depth  fcr  drainage,  which  was  composed  of  moderate  sized  clinkers, 
so  that  the  average  depth  of  soil  was  about  8  inches,  As  evidence  that 
the  results  were  of  the  first  order,  well-known  gardeners  stated  they  had 
never,  witnessed  an  equally  good  example  of  Melon  culture  before. 
Under  this  circumscribed  root-space  system  a  much  richer  compost 
may  be  employed,  and  a  very  careful  eye  is  needed  to  the  watering. 
This  is  the  point  which  pleases  me — namely,  when  the  fruit  is  swelling, 
watering  and  feeding  can  be  given  more  freely  without  fear  of  canker. 
Another  experiment  was  tried  in  1894,  both  with  regard  to  depth  of 
bed  and  mode  of  training,  (i  will  allude  to  the  training  later).  The 
bed  was  made  in  a  well-drained  box,  which  measured  4  feet  6  inches  in 
length,  2  feet  4  inches  in  width,  and  contained  two  barrowloads  of 
compost.  In  this  we  placed  two  plants  of  Beauty  of  Sion,  which  ripened 
eighteen  handsome  fruits,  weighing  36  lbs,  This  is  not  a  large  variety. 
In  1895  we  put  in  two  plants  of  a  variety  of  our  own  raising,  which 
produced  thirteen  fruits,  weighing  60  lbs.,  the  heaviest  fruit  turning  the 
scales  at  6J  lbs.  We  call  it  GrimBton  Hybrid.  It  is  a  wbite-fleshed 
Melon  of  good  quality,  very  juicy,  and  of  robust  habit.  I  think  these 
instances  prove  that  Melons  can  be  grown  in  a  small  space,  and  without 
the  aid  of  bottom  heat. 
I  like  plenty  of  good  open  drainage,  covered  with  litter  or  thin  sods, 
using  moist  soil,  well  rammed  down,  but  not  "hard.”  We  use  the  best 
fibrous  loam  we  can  secure,  mixing  with  it  about  a  sixth  part  clay,  a 
twelfth  part  good  wood  ashes,  and  sometimes  a  little  dry  fowls’  or 
pigeons’  manure,  say  a  7-inch  potful  to  a  barrowload.  The  compost 
is  put  in  long  enough  before  planting  to  allow  it  to  become  warmed.  In 
planting  we  use  a  trowel,  and  allow  ample  room  to  pack  the  soil  well 
round  the  ball.  The  plants  are  -from  1  foot  6  inches  to  2  feet  apart. 
Should  the  soil  be  at  all  dry  we  give  it  a  good  watering  a  few  days  before 
planting,  and  also  see  that  the  ball  of  each  plant  is  thoroughly  moist. 
About  a  week  the  whole  is  again  watered. 
Each  plant  is  secured  to  a  stake,  and  thus  conducted  to  the  trellis, 
and  we  are  mindful  not  to  tie  too  tightly.  To  grow  Melons  at  an  express 
pace  they  must  have  abundance  of  beat  apd  moisture,  65°  to  68°  at  night 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  with  a  rise  of  10°  by  sun  heat,  ventilating  very 
cautiously,  and  closing  early  to  obtain  as  much  heat  as  possible ;  100°  or 
110°  will  not  hurt,  with  plenty  of  moisture. 
Training. — Various  methods  are  adopted  in  training  Melons.  First, 
the  simple  cordon  ;  second,  by  topping  several  times.  I  like  to  top  at 
the  first  wire  of  the  trellis,  taking  up  three  leaders  :  by  this  plan  more 
flowers  are  obtained  for  fertilisation  on  the  same  day.  It  is  not  at  all 
difficult  to  get  six  or  eight  fruits  to  a  plant.  This  number  of  fruits  for 
small  varieties  might  be  too  many  where  it  is  the  desire  to  increase  the 
size,  though  in  the  case  of  larg<  r  varieties  it  is  preferable,  as  very  large 
fruits  are  not  always  appreciated.  Setting  is  best  done  in  the  middle  of 
the  day,  when  the  pollen  is  dry  and  the  flowers  at  their  highest  state  of 
perfection.  Care  mast  be  exercised  where  seed-saving  is  done  to  avoid 
intercrossing.  For  supporting  the  fruits  I  am  very  much  in  favour  of 
nets,  preferring  them  to  boards  or  baskets.  In  watering  we  do  it 
thoroughly  when  required,  and  with  tepid  water.  Feeding  may  be 
accomplished  by  the  use  of  some  well  tried  fertiliser,  or  by  careful  use  of 
the  drainings  from  the  byre.  Syringing  is  not  necessary,  except  through 
the  early  stages  of  growth  or  in  case  of  an  attack  of  red  spider. 
As  the  fruits  approach  the  ripening  stage  less  water  is  supplied  to  the 
root,  yet  sufficient  for  the  well-being  of  the  plant.  A  drier  atmosphere 
is  also  maintained,  also  air  freely  admitted.  This  enhances  the  flavour 
of  the  fruit,  which  is  very  important.  Where  Melons  are  required  daily 
over  a  long  season  it  is  wise  to  sow  about  every  fortnight,  so  that  plants 
may  be  ready  as  required.  As  to  diseases,  canker  is  the  worst  affection 
of  the  Melon,  but  if  the  plants  are  grown  on  the  plan  here  described  the 
risk  of  this  will  be  greatly  reduced.  Should  it  occur  rub  the  affected 
part  with  powdered  charcoal,  lime,  or  cement.  They  are  most  liable  to 
canker  at  the  collar,  and  various  means  are  resorted  to  as  preventives, 
Knocking  the  bottoms  out  and  plunging  the  pots  in  the  bed  is  one  way. 
keeping  the  rim  of  the  pot  well  up  above  the  bed,  afterwards  not  allow¬ 
ing  any  water  to  come  near  the  stem.  We  use  leaden  collars,  filling 
these  with  powdered  charcoal,  lime,  wood  ashes,  or  sulphur. 
To  check  red  spider  we  syringe  the  plants  with  sulphur  mixed  in 
softsoapy  water.  Another  pest  which  has  caused  us  much  anxiety  is  the 
centipede.  They  attack  the  plant  at  the  collar  and  eat  right  up  the 
stem  if  not  checked.  All  may  seem  well  and  promising,  especially  if 
the  weather  be  sunless,  till  the  first  bright  day,  when  the  flagging  of  the 
foliage  indicates  that  all  is  not  well.  I  find  the  material  recommended 
for  canker  is  also  a  hindrance  to  the  centipede.  I  may  add  that  we 
have  lost  fine  Cucumber  plants  when  covering  a  square  yard  of  the 
trellis  through  this  pest  eating  the  stem  entirely  away.  I  spoke  to  an 
authority  on  gardening  one  day  about  the  matter,  bat  he  seemed  to  put 
some  doubt  on  my  statement ;  and  Mr.  Clarke  of  the  Yorkshire  College 
told  me  that  attention  was  now  being  given  to  the  subject. 
The  following  are  good  varieties  of  Melons : — Scarlet  flesh,  Read’s 
Scarlet,  Scarlet  Premier,  and  Blenheim  Orange ;  white,  Colston  Basset, 
Hero  of  Lockinge,  and  The  Countess ;  green,  Eastnor  Castle.  For 
frames  Golden  Perfection. 
A  few  last  jottings — 1,  January  is  early  enough  to  make  the  first 
sowing.  About  four  months  under  genial  treatment  are  required  from 
sowing  to  the  ripening  of  the  first  crop.  2,  Abundance  of  sun  is 
required  to  produce  the  desired  flavour.  3,  The  fruits  ought  to  be  kept 
a  few  days  after  cutting  before  sending  to  table.  4,  Old  seed  is  preferred 
to  new,  and  will  keep  good  for  many  years. — John  Snell,  Foreman , 
Gr  imston  Park. — ( Read  at  a  meeting  of  the  Leeds  Paxton  Society. ) 
SPRING  FLOWERS  AT  BELVOIR. 
Having  lately  had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  this,  the  home  of 
spring  flowers,  a  few  notes,  without  attempting  a  description  of  the 
establishment,  may  be  of  interest  to  those  who  cannot  avail  themselves 
of  a  similar  pleasure.  As  is  well  known,  owing  to  the  kindness  of  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  of  Rutland,  the  flower  gardens  and  slopes  near  the 
castle  are  thrown  open  to  the  public  daily,  Sundays  included.  No 
charge  is  made,  and  visitors  are  allowed  to  ramble  at  will  throughout 
the  beautiful  surroundings.  This  is  appreciated  by  tens  of  thousands 
during  the  year,  and  to  their  credit  it  may  be  said  that  it  is  only  on 
very  rare  occasions  that  complaints  have  been  made  of  damage  to  either 
flowers,  plants,  or  trees. 
A  visitor  was  overbeard  to  remark,  "I  have  not  missed  seeing  the 
spring  flowers  at  Belvoir  for  twenty  years,  and  they  are  better  this 
season  than  I  have  ever  seen  them.”  Another,  when  he  came  in  sight  of 
the  Duchess’s  garden  for  the  first  time,  exclaimed,  "  It  is  grand.”  With 
the  latter  1  agree,  for  though  there  were  some  plants,  such  as  Hyacinths, 
which  were  past  their  best,  the  display  compared  favourably  with 
former  years.  This  must  be  gratifying  to  Mr.  Divers,  who  succeeded 
the  late  Mr.  Ingram,  of  world-wide  repute  in  this  particular  branch  of 
gardening,  as  he  has  tried  with  good  effect  many  plants  that  had  only 
previously  been  grown  on  a  limited  scale. 
One  of  the  best  of  these  is  Phlox  divaricata,  forming  a  mass  of 
bloom  not  easily  to  be  forgotten,  and  where  Tulip  Couleur  de  Cardinal 
was  used  in  conjunction  with  it  the  combination  was  considered  by  many 
to  be  one  of  the  most  pleasing  in  the  gardens.  Aubrietia  Leichtlini  is  used 
extensively,  as  is  A.  giseca.  Both  the  above  are  selections,  and  are  better 
than  one  usually  sees  them.  A.  Ingrami,  a  new  variety,  was  blooming 
freely,  the  individual  flowers  of  which  are  larger  than  the  two  latter. 
Another  very  telling  bed  waB  Myosotis  dissitiflora  and  Tulip  Chrysolora 
(yellow).  Cliveden  Purple  Pansy  and  Tournesol  Tulip  made  a  pleasing 
combination,  as  also  did  Harbinger  Primrose  and  Tulip  Vermilion 
Brilliant. 
In  the  Duchess’s  garden,  situated  on  the  Bide  of  a  hill,  and  protected 
from  the  north-east  and  west,  and  open  to  the  south,  many  plants  and 
trees  grow  freely  that  are  not  often  to  be  found  so  far  north.  A  fine 
Camellia  was  observed  in  robust  health  and  covered  with  bloom.  Large 
masses  of  Bambusa  metake  and  B.  falcata  were  the  picture  of  health, 
so  was  Rhododendron  Falconeri,  which  is  usually  grown  in  a  greenhouse 
in  this  country.  There  were  also  some  fine  specimens  of  the  early 
flowering  varieties  of  Rhododendrons,  the  majority  of  which  were  over, 
usually  flowering  here  early  in  February.  Healthy  specimens  of  Azara 
microphylla  were  in  bloom,  and,  being  Vanilla  scented,  they  quite  per¬ 
fumed  the  air  for  some  distance  from  the  trees.  Cunninghamia  sinensis, 
although  growing  in  a  sheltered  spot,  did  not  look  as  if  it  had  benefited 
by  the  change  from  Southern  China.  It  is  an  interesting  curiosity,  not 
often  met  with  owing  to  its  tenderness.  Berberis  Darwini  was  flowering 
freely  in  the  surrounding  woods,  and  I  noticed  one  of  the  largest  Hazel 
|  trees  I  have  ever  met  with.  At  5  feet  from  the  ground  it  measures 
