m 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  27,  1897 
from  instead  of  the  condensation  of  moisture  upon  it.  Plants  in  flower 
alBO  must  have  a  little  air  constantly,  with  a  free  circulation  on  fine 
days,  fertilising  the  flowers  as  they  become  tally  expanded,  and  when 
a  sufficient  number  of  fruits  about  equal  size  are  set  upon  a  plant 
remove  all  others  and  flowers,  both  staminate  and  pistillate.  Three  or 
four  fruits  on  plants  of  ordinary  size  and  vigour  are  as  many  as  each  can 
bring  to  full  size  and  highest  perfection,  overcropping  being  alike  fatal 
to  appearance  and  utility,  the  fruit  very  often  not  reaching  maturity, 
but  ripens  prematurely,  and  these  are  comparatively  worthless.  Plants 
swelling  their  fruits  Bbould  have  liberal  supplies  of  tepid  liquid  manure 
or  light  top-dressiDgs  of  fertiliser  worked  in  moderately,  with  additions 
made  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks  of  fresh  soil  as  the  roots  protrude,  and  it 
should  be  warm.  Go  over  the  p'ants  frequently  for  the  removal  or 
stopping  of  laterals,  keeping  the  principal  foliage  well  exposed  to  light, 
and  above  all  things  p;rfectly  free  from  pests. 
Young  plants  in  frames  or  pits  with  the  shoots  trained  over  the 
surface  must  be  thinned  to  four,  two  being  taken  to  the  front  and  two 
to  the  back,  keeping  the  laterals  rubbed  off  to  quite  6  inches  from  the 
stem,  and  pinching  the  main  shoots  when  12  to  15  inches  from  the  sides 
of  the  pits  or  frames.  The  laterals  will  show  fruit  at  the  first  or  second 
joint,  and  the  flowers  being  fully  expanded  fertilise  them  about  noon  on 
a  fine  day,  leaving  a  little  air  on  constantly  to  prevent  the  condensation 
of  moisture,  a  moist  close  atmosphere  being  fatal  to  a  good  set.  Pinch 
out  the  points  of  the  shoots  one  joint  above  the  fruit,  and  after  three  or 
four  fruits  are  set  and  swelling  on  a  plant  remove  all  others.  Keep  the 
laterals  closely  pinched,  and  thin  them  if  likely  to  crowd  the  principal 
foliage.  Afford  due  but  not  excessive  supplies  of  water,  and  if  liquid 
manure  be  given,  let  it  be  weak  and  warm,  keeping  it  from  the  foliage. 
Sprinkle  the  plants  in  the  afternoon  of  fine  days  with  clear  soft  water, 
closing  about  3.30  P.M.  to  4  P.M.,  or  so  early  as  to  raise  the  temperature 
to  90°,  95°,  or  100°,  and  ventilate  early  in  the  day,  or  from  7.30  A.M.  to 
8  A.M.,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°,  and  reduce  the  ventilation 
gradually.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides,  and  fumigate  on  two  or 
three  consecutive  evenings  moderately,  an  overdose  doing  great  injury. 
Shade  the  following  day  if  the  weather  be  bright,  and  always  have  the 
foliage  dry  when  fumigating.  Red  spider  will  not  appear  if  the  plants 
are  kept  properly  moist,  but  if  it  does  so  place  a  little  flowers  of  sulphur 
on  a  slate  raised  on  an  inverted  flower  pot  so  that  the  sun  can  act  upon 
it.  If  canker  appear  on  the  stem  rub  quicklime  into  the  affected  parts 
until  they  are  dry,  and  repeat  as  occasion  requires,  being  careful  to  keep 
water  from  the  collar. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Tomatoes. — Bright  sunshine  accompanied  by  parching  winds, 
though  favourable  to  the  ripening  of  fruit,  is  not  altogether  to  the 
advantage  of  Tomato  growers.  The  fiuit  on  plants  under  glass  does  not 
set  bo  well  on  the  later  formed  bunches  as  it  does  when  the  weather  is 
less  trying,  especially  where  the  ventilation  and  other  treatment  have 
not  been  varied  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  case.  Top  ventilators 
should  be  opened  a  few  inches  not  later  than  6  A.M.,  gradually  opening 
them  wider  till  at  ten  o’clock,  when  ample  provision  has  been  made. 
Defer  ventilating  till  the  temperature  has  run  up  to  70°  or  more,  and  the 
chances  are  nothing  short  of  opening  both  top  and  side  ventilators  to 
their  full  extent  will  lower  the  heat  sufficiently.  By  opening  early  it  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  admit  any  front  or  side  air,  or  even  to  set  the  top 
ventilators  open  to  their  full  extent  before  June.  Early  ventilation  also 
favours  exemption  from  disease.  A  portion  of  the  air  may  be  taken  off 
at  5  p.m  ,  but  the  houses  must  not  be  wholly  closed  early  enough  to 
create  a  heated,  moisture-laden  atmosphere,  as  the  cladisporium  revels 
in  this.  All  watering  of  borders  should  be  done  as  much  as  possible  in 
the  morning,  and,  if  not  already  done,  mulched  with  strawy  manure, 
this  saving  the  watering  pot  or  hose  and  keeping  the  atmosphere  drier. 
After  the  plants  have  become  furnished  with  two  or  more  clusters  of 
fruit  they  must  be  fed  freely  at  the  roots,  also  receiving  abundance  of 
water,  otherwise  they  will  fail  to  set  and  swell  successions!  clusters 
of  fruit.  All  ought  to  be  gone  over  at  least  once  a  week,  removing  all 
superfluous  growths,  training  the  leaders,  and  slightly  reducing  the  size 
of  the  leaves  where  these  shade  the  fruit  unduly.  Setting  of  fruit  should 
not  be  left  to  chance  or  artificial  distribution  of  pollen,  accomplished 
by  smartly  tapping  the  stems  with  a  padded  stick,  be  deferred  till  late  in 
the  day.  About  ten  o’clock  is  a  good  time  to  commence,  or  before  the 
moisture  on  the  stigma  of  each  flower  has  disappeared. 
Tomatoes  in  Pots. — These  are  among  the  first  to  suffer  from  the 
effects  of  drying  winds  and  strong  sunshine.  If  the  pots  are  arranged 
on  stagings,  benches,  or  boards,  and  are  further  exposed  to  sunshine,  they 
become  very  hot  and  the  soil  dries  rap’dly.  They  are  liable  to  fail, 
even  if  watered  three  or  four  times  a  day.  Covering  the  pots  with  mats, 
paper,  or  strawy  litter  keeps  them  son:  e what  cooler,  but  they  will  still 
need  abundance  of  water  and  liquid  manure.  Top-dresBings  of  rich 
manure  and  loam  are  of  good  service,  but  not  if  they  are  taken  much 
notice  of  when  examined  before  watering,  as  its  appearance  may  be 
deceptive.  The  plants  ought  to  receive  nearly  or  quite  as  much  water 
after  a  top-dressing  has  been  applied  as  they  did  before  it  was  given. 
Pots  ought,  where  possible,  to  be  arranged  either  on  a  bed  of  soil  or  ashes, 
acd  the]  Toots  allowed  to  ramble  out  through  the  drainage  holes  into 
this.  Ashes  answer  admirably  if  kept  constantly  moist,  an  occasional 
zurfacing  of  specii  1  manure  adding  materially  to  the  cropping  capa¬ 
bilities  of  the  plants.  Topping  weakiy  plants  beyond  the  third  or  fourth 
bunch  of  flowers  favours  rapid  swelling  and  early  ripening  of  crops,  and 
if  there  is  sufficient  head  room  a  fresh  leader  can  be  laid  in  from  the 
next  break. 
Potatoes. — Where  badly  damaged  by  frost  before  they  had  been 
moulded  up  once  recovery  has  been  slow,  and  in  some  icstances  the 
wisest  plan  would  have  been  to  plant  afresh.  Potatoes  planted  late  are 
growing  strongly,  and  with  a  change  to  moister  weather  with  warm 
nights  rapid  progress  will  be  made.  Whilst  the  dry  hot  weather  lasts 
hoeing  deeply  among  them  would  in  many  instances  do  more  harm  than 
good.  Deep  hoeing  is  also  unwise  after  the  fibrous  roots  are  in  full 
possession  of  the  spaces  between  the  rows.  Advantage  ought  to  be 
taken  of  a  change  to  showery  weather  to  sow  either  soot  freely  or  special 
manures  lightly  among  the  rows,  then  hoeing  and  soon  after  moulding 
up  the  plants. 
Planting  Between  Potatoes. — Where  the  rows  of  short-topped 
early  Potatoes  are  not  less  than  3  feet  apart,  good  sites  for  rows  of 
Borecole,  autumn  Broccoli,  and  Cauliflower  and  Brussels  Sprouts  are 
ready  directly  after  the  Potatoes  have  had  the  soil  ridged  up  to  them. 
In  anticipation  of  this  the  requisite  number  of  plants  should  have  been 
raised  under  glass  and  duly  pricked  out  on  sheltered  borders.  From 
these  they  ought  to  be  transplanted  with  a  trowel,  saving  a  small  ball  of 
soil  about  the  roots.  They  will  move  best  if  well  moistened  at  the  roots 
a  few  hours  prior  to  lifting,  and  should  be  firmly  replanted  with  the 
trowel  at  distances  of  2  feet  or  rather  more  apart.  If  this  is  done  in 
dry  weather  they  must  be  watered  frequently,  ceasing  when  they  are 
growing  strongly. 
Peas. — Only  the  more  robust  varieties,  of  the  Ne  Plus  Ultra  and 
British  Queen  types,  should  be  sown  now.  The  more  feeble  sorts  late 
sown  succumb  quickly  to  mildew.  Sow  thinly  in  freely  manured, 
•deeply  dug  ground.  A  mulching  of  strawy  manure  ought  where  possible 
to  be  applied  to  all  the  midseason  and  late  rows  of  Peas,  and  would 
not  be  wasted  on  the  earlier  rows.  If  water  or  liquid  manure  is  given 
let  it  be  in  sufficiently  heavy  quantities  to  thoroughly  moisten  the 
ground. 
Spinach. — This  fails  quickly  in  hot  and  dry  weather,  but  if  required 
in  August  the  next  two  or  three  sowings  should  be  made  at  fortnightly 
intervals  on  a  well  manured  north  border.  The  soil  should  be  got  into 
a  finely  divided  state,  and  when  the  shallow  drills,  opened  at  12  inches 
apart,  are  found  dry,  moisten  prior  to  sowing  the  seed.  Avoid  sowing 
thickly.  The  large-leaved  Victoria  or  Monstrous  Viroflay  is  to  be 
preferred  for  these  sowings. 
New  Zealand  Spinach. — This  is  but  a  poor  substitute  for  true 
Spinach,  but  proves  acceptable  in  some  establishments.  Its  cultural 
requirements  are  of  the  simplest  character.  A  dozen  plants  raised  under 
glass,  and  transplanted  to  a  south  border  or  a  sunny  open  spot,  will 
yield  bushels  of  succulent  tops.  Plant  a  yard  apart  each  way,  and  give 
water  occasionally  till  the  roots  have  spread  out  into  the  surrounding 
soil. 
Turnips. — These  also  are  liable  to  fail  during  a  hot  summer,  but 
are  less  likely  to  do  so  if  the  seed  is  sown  on  a  cool  rich  border — a 
moderately  wide  north  border  answering  well. 
Sternbergia  Fischeriana. — This  is  a  spring-flowering  species 
of  the  well-known  Winter  Daffodil,  and  as  it  now  appears  in  the 
border  is  a  noticeable  flower,  even  though  it  comes  in  Narcissus  time, 
when  yellow  flowers  are  becoming  plentiful.  Sternbergia  Fischeriana 
differs  from  the  autumn-flowering  S.  lutea  in  having  much  broader 
leaves,  smaller  flowers  of  the  same  rich  yellow  colour.  The  peduncles  are 
short,  and  the  flowers  are  borne  above  the  leaves,  which  as  yet  are  only 
slightly  developed  in  height.  The  plant  flowers  freely,  each  bulb  pro¬ 
ducing  several  blooms.  The  Sternbergias  are  all  valuable  bulbous  plants 
in  any  garden  and  are  perfectly  hardy,  even  the  leaves  of  S.  lutea, 
which  are  in  evidence  all  the  winter  and  only  ripen  at  this  season,  being 
unaffected  by  the  rigours.  That  they  are  not  more  grown  is  probably 
owing  to  their  need  of  a  special  position  ill  the  border,  which  they  do 
not  always  find.  As  S.  lutea  now  ripens  it  requires  a  position  where  it 
will  be  fairly  dry,  and  a  warm  place  where  it  will  be  well  roasted  in 
summer.  In  such  a  position,  in  rather  heavy  soil,  it  has,  says  a  writer 
in  an  American  contemporary,  never  disappointed  me,  and  it  starts  in 
due  time  in  the  late  fall  and  blossoms  profusely,  and  even  multiplies. 
The  large-flowered  S.  macrantha,  which  follows  this  species  in  flower, 
evidently  requires  the  same  kind  of  location,  for  several  clumps  planted 
in  other  conditions  here  have  as  yet  failed  to  do  much  in  the  way  of 
flowering,  though  the  leaves  are  now  prominent  enough. 
SEASONABLE  NOTES. 
The  past  winter  and  spring  will  be  long  remembered  by  bee¬ 
keepers  as  being  very  disastrous  to  the  bees,  not  as  is  sometimes 
the  case  when  only  certain  localities  suffered,  but  throughout  the 
country  reports  are  daily  to  hand  as  to  the  backwardness  of  stocks 
when  compared  with  other  seasons.  A  gardener  in  one  of  the 
largest  places  in  the  West  of  England,  where  fruit  is  extensively 
grown,  and  who  devotes  much  attention  to  his  bees,  says,  “  At  the 
present  moment  the  honey  harvest  for  this  year  is  gloomy  ;  but  let 
us  hope— that  is  all  we  can  do.  Owing  to  the  high  winds  and  cold 
