June  3, 189?. 
JOURNAL  Of  ffORTTCULTURf  AND  COTTAOf  QAttDSNfR. 
491 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — When  the  fruit  is 
all  gathered  from  individual  tree*,  the  wood  on  which  it  haa  been 
produced  ahould  be  cut  away  to  the  ahoot  at  its  base,  which  ia  to  afford 
the  bearing  wood  for  next  season,  except  if  the  fruit  has  been  produced 
on  wood  that  is  necessary  to  retain  for  the  extension  of  the  trees.  All 
growths  not  absolutely  necessary  for  bearing  next  season,  or  for  the 
extension  of  the  trees,  must  be  cut  away,  as  it  is  important  the  foliage 
be  fully  exposed  to  light  and  air,  and  it  is  equally  essential  that  it  die 
naturally,  not  prematurely  through  attacks  of  red  spider  or  lack  of 
moisture  at  the  roots.  Employ  the  syringe  freely,  keep  the  inside 
border  well  watered,  and  the  outside  border  must  not  be  neglected  if  the 
weather  be  dry.  Admit  all  the  air  possible,  and  when  the  buds  plump, 
and  the  wood  thoroughly  ripened,  the  roof  lights,  where  moveable,  may 
be  taken  off. 
Trees  Ripening  their  Fruit. — Ventilate  freely,  leaving  a  little  air  on 
constantly,  and  to  insure  the  preservation  of  the  foliage  in  health 
sprinkle  the  paths  and  borders  with  water  in  the  morning  and  afternoon, 
not  allowing  the  soil  to  become  dry,  but  giving  water  as  required.  A 
mulching  of  short  spent  material  is  very  useful  in  preventing  the 
surface  cracking,  and  the  roots  going  down  in  quest  of  moisture. 
Syringing  must  cease  directly  the  fruit  commences  to  soften  for  ripen¬ 
ing,  or  the  moisture  will  cause  the  skin  to  crack  and  leave  an  unpleasant 
musty  flavour,  as  well  as  spoiling  its  appearance. 
Trees  of  Midseason  Varieties  Started  in  January. — After  the  fruit 
takes  the  last  swelling  give  every  attention  to  the  trees  in  watering  with 
liquid  manure,  or  affording  water  through  a  mulch  of  short  manure. 
The  shoots  may  be  allowed  to  extend,  not  pinching  the  laterals  in  too 
closely,  but  they  must  be  prevented  shading  the  fruit,  raising  this  with 
its  apex  to  the  light.  To  secure  this  place  laths  across  the  trellis, 
securing  them  to  the  wires.  Continue  forcible  syringings  morning  and 
afternoon  until  the  fruit  begins  ripening,  then  cease  syringing,  but  do 
not  allow  the  border  and  other  surfaces  to  become  parchingly  dry,  as 
moderate  moisture,  provided  the  ventilation  is  liberal,  will  not  injure 
the  fruit,  and  it  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage. 
Trees  Started  in  February. — The  fruit  of  these  is  stoning.  It  has 
made  satisfactory  progress,  attaining  to  a  good  size,  as  is  always  the  case 
when  the  trees  are  not  hurried,  nor  overcropped,  and  well  attended  to  as 
regards  nourishment  and  proper  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  light  and  air, 
with  free  ventilation  on  all  favourable  occasions.  To  continue  the  fruit 
in  steady  progress  and  insure  its  stoning  satisfactorily  there  must  be 
no  deficiency  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  and  the  foliage  must  be  kept 
clean  by  daily  syringings,  also,  if  necessary,  by  the  prompt  application 
of  an  insecticide.  Continue  the  temperature  at  60°  to  65°  artificially, 
and  allow  a  free  circulation  of  air  between  70°  and  75°,  having  it  full 
when  the  latter  is  reached,  and  close  at  75°  with  plenty  cf  atmospheric 
moisture.  If  the  temperature  rise  to  80°  or  85°  it  will  not  do  any  harm, 
but  admit  a  little  air  before  nightfall,  eo  as  to  allow  the  pent-up 
moisture  to  escape  and  the  temperature  to  gradually  cool  through  the 
night.  Commence  increasing  the  ventilation  with  the  advancing  heat 
from  65°. 
Later  Houses. — If  desired  to  retard  the  fruit  in  any  of  these,  so  as  to 
j  rolong  the  season  of  supply,  it  is  best  effected  by  freer  and  lengthened 
vtntilation  during  the  day  and  night  when  mild.  Indeed  there  is  only 
need  to  ventilate  day  and  night  to  keep  the  crop  back  so  as  to  ripen 
about  the  same  time,  as  that  usually  occurs,  with  trees  against  walls, 
and  by  judicious  ventilation  the  fruit  may  be  had  over  a  lengthened 
period. 
Vines. — Early  House. — As  soon  as  the  Grapes  are  cleared  give  the 
inside  borders  a  thorough  supply  of  liquid  manure,  or  a  top-dressing  of 
fertilisers  washed  in  moderately.  Keep  the  ventilators  open  constantly 
even  in  coldweathir.  Syringe  thoroughly  to  cleanse  the  foliage,  and 
repeat  occasionally  to  keep  the  old  leaves  healthy.  Fresh  laterals  will  # 
soon  be  produced,  and  cultivators  should  maintain  an  even  growth  all  * 
over  the  Vines,  pinching  the  gross  laterals  and  encouraging  the  weak. 
The  mulching  or  covering  having  been  removed  from  the  outside  border, 
with  just  enough  of  the  lighter  part  left  to  protect  the  roots,  a  good 
watering  with  liquid  manure  may  be  given,  but  this  will  only  be  needed 
where  no  rain  has  fallen.  Avoid  heavy  mulching. 
Second  Early  House. — Vines  started  at  the  new  year  have  the  Grapes 
ripening,  but  there  is  fully  a  fortnight  to  three  weeks  difference  in  the 
time  of  ripening  between  Vine3  carrying  light  crops  and  those  with 
heavy  burdens.  Maintain  a  circulation  of  warm  rather  dry  air  con¬ 
stantly,  increasing  the  ventilation  early.  Keep  the  floors  well  damped 
on  hot  days,  with  a  view  to  check  excessive  evaporation,  allowing  the 
temperature  to  fall  to  60°  at  night  when  cold,  or  65°  when  warm,  with 
sufficient  warmth  in  the  pipes  to  prevent  water  condensing.  If  there  is 
likely  to  be  any  want  of  finish  allow  the  Vines  time  by  giving  as  long  a 
rest  at  night  as  possible.  If  there  is  any  doubt  about  the  roots  laoking 
moisture  examine  the  border,  and  if  found  necessary  give  a  thorough 
soaking  in  the  merning  of  a  fine  day,  and  when  soakei  in  mulch  with 
a  little  light  material.  Moderate  moisture  is  essential  to  the  health  of 
the  foliage,  hence  damping  the  floors  must  be  resorted  to  occasionally, 
as  there  is  no  fear  of  its  damaging  ripe  Grapes  at  this  season  if  only  it 
be  accompanied  with  air ;  besides,  the  moisture  will  assist  in  keeping  the 
Grapes,  and  to  prevent  colour  being  taken  out  of  Hamburghs  a  double 
thickness  of  herring  net  should  be  drawn  over  the  roof  lights.  Allow  a 
moderate  extension  of  the  laterals  to  encourage  root  action. 
Midseason  Houses. — Vines  in  these  will  be  in  various  stages  of 
development,  according  to  the  time  of  starting.  Those  which  have  stoned 
will  be  swelling  the  berries  faBt,  and  the  borders  should  have  a  soaking  of 
tepid  water  through  a  mulching  an  inch  or  two  thick.  The  drainage 
being  good,  water  will  be  needed  once  a  week  if  the  border  is  limited  to 
a  small  area,  or  fortnightly  intervals,  until  the  Grapes  are  somewhat 
advanced  in  colouring,  when  it  must  be  stopped.  Admit  a  little  air 
constantly  at  the  apex,  and  ventilate  freely  in  the  early  part  of  the  day, 
closing  early  with  sun  heat  and  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere. 
Fire  heat  will  only  be  necessary  to  secure  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to 
75°  by  day,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°,  and  closing  suffi¬ 
ciently  early  to  run  up  to  90°  or  95°.  This  will  insure  the  berries  swell¬ 
ing  to  a  good  size,  and  with  a  free  circulation  of  air  a  good  finish  may 
be  secured. 
Grapes  Stoning. — During  this  process  the  Vines  should  have  a 
regular  temperature  of  about  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  from  artificial 
heat,  if  the  Grapes  are  wanted  by  a  given  time,  but  if  not  65°  only  need 
be  maintained  on  dull,  cold  days  ;  but  admit  air  in  good  time,  always  a 
little  at  70°  or  before  after  a  spell  of  dull  weather,  so  that  any  moisture 
shall  be  dissipated  before  the  sun  acts  powerfully  upon  the  foliage. 
Allow  a  moderate  extension  of  the  laterals,  but  avoid  overcrowding,  and 
supply  liquid  manure  or  water,  washing  in  a  top-dressing  of  approved 
fertiliser,  or  passing  through  a  mulch  of  short  stable  manure.  Avoid, 
however,  feeding  luxuriant  Vines  too  liberally,  especially  with 
ammouiacal  or  nitrogenous  manures,  giving  in  their  case  dissolved 
bones,  with  a  little  sulphate  of  potash.  This  will  enable  the  Vines  to 
maintain  steady  progress,  whilst  storing  food  for  the  coming  season’s 
bearing. 
Grapes  Scalding. — Muscats  and  Lady  Downe’s  in  the  later  stages  of 
stoning  are  liable  to  scald,  therefore  must  be  watched  in  hot  bright 
weather,  and  air  admitted  more  freely  for  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks, 
unless  colouring  commences,  when  all  danger  will  be  over.  Black  Ham¬ 
burghs  also  ate  sometimes  scorched  when  the  berries  are  exposed  to  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun,  which  can  mostly  be  avoided  by  a  good  spread  of 
foliage,  and  remedied  by  a  bountiful  supply  of  air  by  day  and  a  little 
ventilation  constantly,  with  a  genial  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipe3. 
Early  Muscat  House. — The  fruit  ripening  will  need  a  dry  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  as  compared  with  Black  Hamburghs,  but  avoid  great 
aridity,  or  the  foliage  will  fall  a  prey  to  red  spider.  Muscats  must  have 
time  to  ripen  and  acquire  that  rich  amber  colour  so  much  prized.  Do 
not  allow  any  deficiency  of  moisture  in  the  borders,  for  Muscats  are 
gross  feeders,  but  give  tepid  liquid  manure  or  water  through  surface 
mulching.  The  supply  of  water  to  the  roots  will  to  some  extent  com¬ 
pensate  for  the  drier  condition  of  the  atmosphere.  Provide  a  circulation 
of  air  constantly,  preventing  the  moisture  condensing  on  the  berries  by 
sufficient  warmth  in  the  pipes  to  insure  a  changing  atmosphere.  Lateral 
extension  is  the  best  safeguard  against  shanking  at  this  stage,  along  with 
a  steady  temperature.  Avoid  sudden  fluctuations  and  depressions. 
Keep  the  night  temperature  at  65°  to  70°,  80°  to  85°  by  day,  with  a  little 
sun,  and  90°  to  95°  with  it  in  full  force.  Ventilate  early,  and  regulate 
by  the  sun’s  increase,  and  so  with  its  decline,  reduce  early,  securing  as 
long  a  day  of  ripening  from  sun  heat  as  possible.  The  old  leaves  of 
Muscats  are  liable  to  be  scorched  under  powerful  sun  after  a  period  of 
dull  cold  weather.  In  very  bright  weather  draw  a  single  thickness  of 
tanned  netting  over  the  roof  lights,  which,  without  impeding  too  much 
light,  will  prevent  the  condensation  of  moisture. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Caladlums. — Plants  that  it  is  intended  to  grow  for  conservatory  or 
other  forms  of  decoration  in  intermediate  structures  should  be  placed  at 
once  into  larger  pots.  After  the  plants  have  started  rooting  freely  in 
the  new  soil  give  them  more  air,  so  that  firm  sturdy  growths  will  follow. 
Full  sunshine  may  also  be  admitted  to  these  plants.  When  grown 
under  close,  moist,  and  shady  conditions  their  foliage  falls  directly  the 
plants  are  placed  in  cooler  and  more  airy  quarters — in  fact,  they  are 
practically  useless  for  many  forms  of  decoration. 
Achlmenes. — More  cuttings  may  be  inserted  in  5-inch  pots  ;  these 
root  quickly  if  placed  in  a  moist  shady  position  for  a  week  or  ten  days, 
or  in  the  propagating  frame.  The  plants  from  which  cuttings  have  been 
obtained  should  then  be  allowed  to  grow  or  to  develop  their  tubers  for 
another  year.  When  once  these  are  again  fairly  started  into  growth 
weak  stimulants  should  be  given  them,  or  else  they  will  grow  weakly. 
Plants  rooted  some  time  ago  and  now  in  pots  should  be  supported  by 
four  or  five  small  stakes  and  one  or  two  pieces  of  matting. 
Polnsettlas. — Do  not  keep  plants  growing  in  too  close  and  warm  a 
structure,  or  else  they  will  draw  up  weakly  and  soon  become  leggy. 
They  should  occupy  an  intermediate  temperature,  and  air  should  be 
given  liberally  when  fine,  which  will  result  in  sturdy  growth.  Yoang 
plants  that  need  repotting  ought  to  be  attended  to  from  time  to  time, 
and  the  soil  should  be  pressed  firmly  into  the  pots ;  loose  potting  is  a 
great  mistake  and  only  encourages  soft  rapid  growth.  These  plants  do 
well  in  fibry  loam,  one-seventh  of  manure  and  sand. 
Euphorbias.  —  Cuttings  of  E.  jacquiniaefolia  should  now  be 
plentiful,  and  will  root  freely  if  they  have  been  prepared  by  thorough 
hardening  in  a  cool  airy  bouse  for  the  last  fortnight.  The  young  shosts 
should  be  taken  off  just  where  they  are  emitted  from  the  old  stem  with 
a  sharp  knife,  and  if  inserted  in  sandy  soil  and  covered  with  a  bell- 
glass,  shaded  from  the  sun,  and  kept  in  a  close  warm  house,  the  majority 
will  root.  If  the  cuttings  have  been  produced  in  brisk  heat  and  are 
then  inserted  nearly  every  one  will  fail.  Once  sufficient  young  stock 
has  been  raised  the  old  plants,  if  needed,  may  be  cut  back  and  allowed 
to  start  from  the  base. 
Asparagus  plumosus  nanus. — Large  or  fair  sized  plants  that 
display  a  tendency  to  form  crowns  may  be  divided  into  small  pieces. 
