June  lO,  188?. 
497 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  .  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, , 
of  water  first,  to  be  followed  by  the  manurial  liquid,  than  to 
attempt  giving  the  latter  while  the  soil  is  dry.  Another  point,  too, 
that  is  in  danger  of  being  overlooked  is  the  importance  of  supplying 
liquid  manure  in  a  weak  state  and  frequently,  rather  than  in  a 
strong  form  and  more  seldom.  Far  greater  satisfaction  results 
from  such  treatment,  as  the  plants  can  appropriate  the  food  consti¬ 
tuents  more  readily,  and  there  is  not  the  risk  which  arises  from 
strong  applications. — Practitioner. 
PLANTING  CELERY. 
Celery  is  a  most  important  kitchen  garden  crop,  and  requires 
special  attention  during  the  early  stages  of  cultivation,  so  that 
growth  may  be  steady,  regular,  vigorous,  and  healthy.  The  plants 
should  receive  at  all  times  abundance  of  light  and  air  for  the  foliage, 
with  constant  moisture  to  the  roots.  Without  a  free  supply  always 
available  to  the  numerous  roots,  the  food  in  the  soil  and  manure, 
however  adequate,  cannot  be  made  sufficiently  soluble  and  usefully 
appropriated.  Water  itself  contains  some  food  the  plants  want ; 
but  in  addition  to  supplying  this,  it  has  the  great  function  of 
rendering  soluble  the  necessary  salts  required  for  the  sustenance  of 
Celery  as  well  as  other  plants.  Celery  is  a  great  absorber  of 
moisture,  hence  it  is  essential  that  due  provision  should  be  made  to 
meet  this  demand. 
The  importance  of  moisture  commences  to  be  apparent  when 
tho  young  plants  have  been  pricked  out  from  the  seed  pan  or  boxes. 
The  roots  increase  rapidly  in  a  suitable  medium,  and  the  plants  grow 
freely.  Growers  of  Celery  are  aware  of  this,  and  provide  a  rich, 
light,  and  moist  root  run,  such  as  the  young  plants  can  revel  in. 
The  half-spent  hotbed  surface,  with  a  few  inches  of  light  rich  soil, 
is  usually  a  favourite  place  where  seedlings  are  prepared  for  the 
final  planting.  A  layer  of  manure  on  a  firm  bottom  in  a  frame  and 
over  that  soil,  the  bed  being  near  the  glass  in  every  case,  is  also 
suitable.  Plants  having  thus  been  cared  for  during  the  preceding 
month,  are  ready  for  the  trenches  in  June. 
Later  sowings  may  receive  more  hardy  treatment,  but  the  soil 
for  them  ought  also  to  be  rich  and  moist.  This,  however,  can  be 
insured  by  digging  in,  previous  to  pricking  out,  a  liberal  dressing  of 
decomposed  manure. 
In  selecting  a  site  for  growing  Celery  a  situation  may  be  chosen 
where  the  ground  is  naturally  rather  poor,  but  light  in  texture 
rather  than  heavy  and  too  retentive  of  moisture.  Light  and  poor 
ground  may  be  enriched  for  the  growth  of  the  Celery,  but  soil 
retentive  of  moisture  to  an  undue  extent  is  not  readily  drained  in 
a  short  period.  The  situation  should  be  open,  unobstructed  light 
and  a  free  circulation  of  air  being  essential  in  promoting  a  sturdy 
growth  which  can  endure  the  vicissitudes  of  an  ordinarily  severe 
winter. 
The  best  method  of  planting  Celery — except,  perhaps,  under 
special  circumstances — is  in  single  or  double  trenches  4  feet  apart. 
They  can  run  in  a  N.  and  S.  direction.  The  width  of  the  trenches 
may  be  18  inches  for  double  rows,  and  15  iuches  for  single.  The 
soil  ought  to  be  taken  out  to  a  depth  of  15  or  18  inches,  filling  in 
about  a  foot  of  manure.  This  should  be  well  decomposed  cow 
manure,  or  geaeral  farmyard  manure  well  decayed.  If  the  subsoil 
is  good  a  portion  of  that  may  be  mixed  with  the  manure  in  digging 
the  latter  in  ;  but  some  of  the  better  material  thrown  out  on  the 
sides  must  also  be  employed.  Deep  trenches  with  sheer  perpen¬ 
dicular  sides  are  not  now  tolerated.  Trenches  comparatively 
shallow  when  their  preparation  is  complete  are  the  rule.  They  are 
warmer,  more  exposed  to  light,  and  can  be  watered  to  better  effect. 
Their  improved  appearance  is  also  a  recommendation. 
Before  lifting  the  plants  for  final  planting  in  the  trenches  they 
ought  to  be  well  watered,  or  a  period  selected  when  thoroughly 
moist.  Dull  weather  is  to  be  preferred  for  planting,  and  each 
plant  must  be  raised  from  the  bed  with  a  good  ball  of  roots  and 
80)1,  an  easy  matter  when  proper  methods  in  preparing  the  plants 
have  been  followed.  The  distance  between  the  plants  may  be  in 
single  rows  a  foot  if  large  sticks  are  required.  Ten  inches  asunder 
is  a  useful  distance  both  for  single  and  double  rows,  a  foot  distance 
in  the  latter  not  so  frequently  being  employed.  Trim  off  all  small 
leafstalks  and  short  suckers  appearing  at  the  base.  There  will  be 
less  trouble  from  them  afterwards. 
Plant  just  a  little  lower  than  previously,  forming  the  holes  to 
receive  the  plants  of  ample  depth  and  width.  Render  the  soil 
firm  about  them,  and  preserve  them  from  flagging  by  planting 
quickly.  The  drying  influences  of  the  air  soon  abstract  the 
moisture  from  the  soil  about  the  roots  should  the  plants  be  exposed 
for  an  extraordinary  length  of  time.  Hence  it  is  not  desirable  to 
lift  many  at  a  time.  Whether  water  will  be  required  immediately 
after  planting  or  may  be  deferred  depend*  on  the  weather  and  the 
Btate  of  the  soil. — E.  D .  S. 
POINSETTIAS. 
As  a  plant  for  winter  decoration  Poinsettia  pulcherrima  stands 
without  a  superior.  Its  bright  scarlet  bracts  are  practically  indis¬ 
pensable  for  the  adornment  of  dining  table  and  drawing-room,  and 
coming  at  a  time  when  flowers  are  scarce  an  additional  charm  is 
added.  No  other  inmate  of  the  stove  or  greenhouse  possesses  such 
a  brilliancy  of  colour,  or  one  which  shows  to  better  advantage 
under  artificial  light.  Used  in  conjunction  with  Roman  Hyaoinths 
or  other  white  flowers  the  contrasts  blend  in  an  harmony  that  is  at 
once  elegant  and  pleasing.  To  dwell  long  on  these  points,  however, 
is  but  to  repeat  the  plant’s  oft-sung  praises,  and  when  we  think  of 
them  and  their  usefulness  it  strikes  us  as  being  somewhat  remark¬ 
able  how  rarely  we  see  Poinsettias  really  well  grown.  It  is  one 
thing  to  obtain  plants  with  small  straggling  bracts  surmounted  on 
almost  leafless  stems,  and  quite  another  to  have  them  nearly  a  foot 
across,  compact  in  form,  and  with  stems  clothed  to  the  pots  with 
healthy  foliage.  These  are  the  specimens  that  delighb  the  decorator 
and  do  Credit  to  the  grower.  There  is  no  secret  in  the  method  of 
their  production.  It  is  the  old,  old  story — suitable  conditions  of 
culture  and  close  attention  to  detail,  and  in  this  short  phrase  we 
have  the  law  of  successful  gardening. 
Just  now  the  process  of  propagation  is  in  full  swing.  During 
the  early  months  of  the  year  the  plants  have  been  in  a  resting 
condition.  In  most  gardens  the  dried  sticks  have  been  shaken  out 
of  the  old  soil,  repotted,  and  are  now  pushing  numerous  side 
growths  under  the  genial  conditions  of  forcing  house  or  pit. 
Cuttings  inserted  now  and  grown  in  a  cool  house  or  frame  close 
to  the  light,  make  dwarf  sturdy  plants,  warranted  to  carry 
creditable  bracts  in  the  winter.  They  are,  however,  somewhat 
fastidious  about  rooting,  and  have  a  great  tendency  to  damp  off. 
A  frame  in  the  propagating  pit  is  the  most  suitable  place  for  them, 
and  the  cuttings  should  be  formed  of  the  short  sturdy  growths, 
preferably  with  a  heel  of  the  old  wood  attached.  It  is  well  to  let 
the  cuttings  lie  for  half  an  hour  before  inserting  them,  in  order 
that  the  wounds  may  be  dried  somewhat,  after  which  they  should  be 
placed  singly  into  thumb  pots,  watered,  and  plunged  in  a  brisk 
bottom  heat.  For  the  first  few  days  they  require  a  dense  shade 
during  the  hours  of  sunshine,  gradually  inuring  them  to  the  light. 
As  a  rale  the  insertion  of  cuttings  formed  of  long-jointed,  sappy 
growth  will  only  result  in  failure  ;  -but  if  proper,  well-matured, 
and  short-jointed  growths  are  chosen  they  will  root  in  ten  days  or 
a  fortnight  without  losing  a  single  leaf.  It  is  easy  to  tell  when 
the  tiny  plants  have  commenced  growing  at  which  stage  they 
should  be  removed  from  the  hotbed  and  kept  close  to  the  light  in 
order  to  prevent  drawing  and  lanky  growth.  Potting  as  required 
must  not  be  neglected,  otherwise  if  the  plants  are  allowed  to  suffer 
for  want  of  water  the  lower  leaves  assume  a  yellow  and  sickjy 
appearance,  which  is  a  condition  one  naturally  wishes  to  avoid. 
The  treatment  of  old  plants  differs  somewhat.  Where  required 
for  room  decoration  it  is  often  desirable  that  they  should  be  tall, 
hence  the  necessity  of  growing  them  in  heat.  After  the  old  plants 
have  been  potted  and  growth  has  commenced  it  is  best  to  take  off 
the  upper  shoots  for  forming  cuttings,  leaving  the  lower  to  develop 
into  bract*.  By  this  means  it  is  possible  to  obtain  plants  of  &  bushy 
character,  having  three  or  four  or  even  more  of  their  bright  clusters 
of  scarlet  tops.  Light  is  the  principal  requirement,  as  the  growth 
must  be  well  matured.  Poinsettias  are  often  grown  in  Btoves  amid 
other  plants  and  under  creepers,  but  the  results  are  invariably  un¬ 
satisfactory,  as  the  stems  are  elongated  and  sappy,  possessed  of 
insufficient  stamina  to  produce  and  mature  large  heads.  Growing 
the  plants  in  heat  has  its  advantages  and  disadvantages.  Fine 
bracts  may  be  obtained  in  this  way,  and  one  of  the  best  collections 
I  ever  saw  in  this  respect  was  grown  in  a  house  of  stove  temperature 
and  the  pots  plunged  in  a  bed  of  leaves.  The  plants  were  tall  and 
strong,  and  in  the  house  presented  a  fine  appearance,  but  when  cut 
or  taken  out  in  the  pots  the  leaves  felt  the  change  and  turned 
flabby  and  limp. 
The  question  is  sometimes  asked  how  to  grow  dwarf  plants 
having  good  bracts,  for  after  all  the  Poinsettia  in  this  condition  is 
the  most  serviceable.  In  the  first  place  they  must  be  grown  cool, 
in  order  to  insure  dwarf  habit  and  green  leathery  foliage  ;  secondly,, 
they  require  abundance  of  light,  hence  the  necessity  of  growing 
them  close  to  the  glass.  It  is  the  custom  of  some  growers  to  allow 
their  plant*  to  start  naturally  at  this  time  of  the  year,  keeping 
them  in  cold  frames  till  cold  weather  sets  in,  then  removing  them 
to  a  warm  structure  for  flowering.  Old  plants  may  be  so  manipu¬ 
lated  that,  in  conjunction  with  free  dwarf  habit,  three  or  four  good 
bracts  may  be  obtained  on  a  plant.  Those  rooted  in  the  spring  in 
the  manner  suggested  only  produce  one  bract  each,  but  usually  these 
are  so  much  finer,  and  the  plants  so  well  furnished  with  leaves,  that 
it  is  advisable  to  depend  chiefly  on  early  summer  propagation, 
particularly  if  dwarf  specimens  are  required  for  deooration. 
After  the  young  plants  are  rooted  they  should  be  removed  to 
