514 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
June  10,  1807. 
and  is  also  good  against  red  spider  if  it  appears.  Some  mix  sulphur 
and  water  and  syringe  the  leaves  with  it.  We  have  never  been  troubled 
with  wireworm,  thoagh  often  using  fresh  loam,  nor  have  the  roots  been 
galled  from  eelworm  attacks. 
Varieties. — Among  the  best  Tomatoes  are  the  different  selections 
of  Perfection.  Having  grown  Suttons’  Perfection,  Duke  of  York,  and 
Cannell’s  King,  the  first  named  proved  a  little  the  largest,  the  second 
the  deepest  in  colour.  Frogmore  Selected  is  a  heavy  cropper  of  medium 
sized  fruit,  slightly  ribbed.  A. I  is  an  ideal  Tomato  for  market — short 
jointed,  free  setting,  and  carrying  a  heavy  crop  of  smooth  medium-sized 
fruit.  Some  people  complain  of  it,  being  so  liable  to  crack.  With 
careful  selection  I  have  obtained  a  variety  free  from  cracking,  and 
larger  than  the  original  A. I.  It  is  useful,  as  in  the  Dublin  market 
Tomatoes  weighing  half  a  pound  bring  a  higher  price  than  those  only 
half  the  weight.  Hathaway’s  Excelsior  is  also  good,  being  a  heavy 
cropper  of  medium  size.  Conference  is  too  small  with  us,  but  an 
immense  cropper.  All  the  foregoing  are  red. 
The  only  yellow  variety  grown  was  raised  from  seed  saved  from 
Frogmore  Selected  crossed  with  Perfection.  The  object  was  to  raise  a 
variety  with  the  free-cropping  qualities  of  Frogmore,  with  the  size  and 
shape  of  Perfection.  The  size  is  large,  flavour  and  shape  good,  the 
colour  being  a  rich  orange  yellow.  It  took  first  prizes  last  year  at  shows 
for  a  dish  of  yellow  Tomatoes.  Is  it  usual  for  yellow  varieties  to  be 
raised  from  red  1 
Exhibition. — For  exhibition  there  is  nothing  in  the  reds  to  excel 
the  numerous  selections  of  Perfection  sent  out  under  so  many  different 
names.  Do  not  leave  more  than  three  fruits  on  a  truss,  cutting  off  all 
badly  shaped  fruits  and  those  showing  ribs.  All  other  treatment  is  the 
same  as  that  for  general  crop.  If  ripe  too  soon  for  a  show  Tomatoes  will 
keep  ten  or  twelve  days  in  a  dry  ccol  room,  either  lying  on  wood  wool 
or  cut  with  a  stalk  and  put  in  a  bottle  filled  with  water,  the  fruit  sitting 
on  the  mouth  of  the  bottle.  It  is  useless  trying  to  keep  cracked  fruit, 
as  decay  rapidly  sets  in.  Do  I  leave  too  much  space  between  the  lines  ? 
Are  there  many  grammatical  errors  ?— W.  T.,  Ireland. 
[The  spacing  is  quite  right  ;  grammatical  errors  few.  If  a  copy  is 
kept  of  articles  sent  the  extent  of  revision  may  be  perceived.  It  is 
excellent  practice.] 
Propagation  of  Euphorbia  jacquinijeflora. 
As  the  increase  of  this  beautiful  plant  often  proves  difficult  to  the 
inexperienced  propagator,  perhaps  the  following  remarks  will  not  be 
considered  superfluous.  My  method  is  simple.  Tear  off  the  young 
Bhoots  from  the  old  plants  and  throw  them  down  on  the  Pine  bed  or  on 
any  shady  place  in  the  house  till  they  stop  bleeding.  Sometimes  I  leave 
them  twelve  or  twenty  hours  like  this  ;  then  they  are  inserted  in  4-inch 
pots,  a  sandy  compost  preferred,  and  plunged  in  the  Pine  bed  under  a 
bell-glass.  In  about  three  weeks  they  are  well  rooted  and  ready  to  be 
placed  in  3-inch  pots.  A  few  weeks  later  they  may  be  put  in  their  final 
pots  (I  prefer  a  5-inch),  and  the  strongest  plants  will  reach  a  height  of 
5  or  6  feet  in  the  course  of  the  season,  producing  a  9-inch  wreath.  At 
least  95  per  cent,  of  the  cuttings  treated  as  above  grow  and  succeed  with 
me.  Some  of  the  last  year’s  plants  seeded,  and  I  sowed  frpm  them  on 
the  11th  of  May.  Tc-day  (the  22nd  of  the  same  month)  plants  are  just 
springing  through  the  soil,  and  I  expect  them  to  do  as  well  as  the 
cuttings  ;  but  I  have  never  had  seedlings  to  grow,  and  so  cannot  speak 
from  experience  on  that  point.,  but  hope  to  do  so  in  due  time. — 
R.  A.  Anderson,  Alnivick  Castle  Gardens. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
rigs. — Early  Forced  Trees, — After  the  first  crops  are  gathered 
generous  treatment  should  be  accorded,  so  as  to  enable  the  trees  to  swell 
the  second.  Trees  in  pots  require  water  daily,  sometimes  twice  a  day, 
and  some  nourishing  food  should  be  applied,  so  as  to  keep  them  in 
healthful  vigour.  Stable  and  cowhouse  drainings  must  be  carefully 
used,  as  they  may  contain  little  beyond  urine,  and  require  to  be  diluted 
with- about  six  times  the  bulk  of  water.  The  contents  of  manure  tanks 
are  still  more  variable  in  strength.  Sometimes  the  liquid  is  merely 
coloured  with  manurial  matter,  and  at  others  it  is  as  dark  as  porter. 
The  thing  is  not  to  apply  it  too  strong.  Where  these  stimulants  cannot 
be  had  it  is  a  good  plan  to  use  surface  dressings  of  fresh  turf,  and 
sprinkle  some  approved  fertiliser  over  that  occasionally.  Planted-out 
trees  will  require  water  or  liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week,  according 
to  the  extent  of  the  rooting  area,  and  the  roots  should  be  mulched  with 
rich  material  so  as  to  keep  an  abundance  of  active  feeders.  Syringe  the 
trees  twice  a  day  to  keep  red  spider  in  check,  directing  the  force  of  the 
water  against  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  and  letting  the  applications 
be  thorough,  as  one  good  syringing  is  worth  many  sprinklings.  Thin 
the  fruit  before  it  is  the  size  of  Walnuts,  and  in  thinning  reserve  the 
largest  fruit  at  the  base  of  the  shoots.  Trees  that  are  to  be  forced  early 
another  year  should  not  be  allowed  to  carry  a  heavy  second  crop,  and 
none  near  the  points  of  the  shoots,  or  they  will  not  be  able  to  produce 
a  full  first  crop  of  Figs  another  season,  which  is  of  the  greatest  conse* 
quence. 
Succession  Houses. — Trees  started  during  the  first  two  months  of  the 
year  have  the  fruit  ripened  and  require  a  free  circulation  of  air,  warm 
and  rather  dry.  Leave  a  little  ventilation  on  constantly  so  as  to 
prevent  moisture  condensing  on  the  fruit,  and  increase  it  early  to 
dispel  any  that  would  otherwise  become  deposited  on  the  fruit  through 
the  sun  heating  the  air  more  rapidly  than  the  fruit,  the  cooler  surface  of 
the  latter  condensing  the  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  expanded  by  the 
sun’s  warmth.  Take  care  not  to  wet  the  fruit  after  it  commences  to 
ripen,  and  afford  all  the  light  practicable.  Tie  in  and  regulate  the 
growths  by  stopping  and  thinning,  keeping  them  fairly  thin,  and  not 
pinching  where  there  is  room,  as  the  finest  fruits  are  borne  on  extensions, 
especially  in  the  first  crop,  spurred  shoots  giving  good  results  in  second 
crops.  Do  not  allow  any  lack  of  water  at  the  roots,  yet  give  less  supplies 
than  when  the  fruits  are  swelling.  If  red  spider  attack  the  trees  the 
fruit  should  be  closely  gathered  and  a  good  syringing  given,  which  will 
not  injure  the  remaining  fruit,  provided  it  is  done  on  a  fine  day,  so  that 
the  moisture  does  not  remain  long  on  the  fruit. 
Young  Trees  in  Pots  for  Next  Years  Early  Forcing. — The  growths 
of  these  must  not  be  stopped  much  after  this  date,  but  have  all  the  light 
practicable,  and  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as  possible  without  touching  it, 
so  as  to  secure  sturdy,  well-ripened  growth,  keeping  this  clean  by 
s j  ringing  and  the  application  of  an  approved  insecticide  when  necessary. 
Aff  rd  liquid  manure  to  insure  stout,  well-nourished  growth.  When  the 
growth  is  completed,  the  trees  may  be  stood  'outside  to  induce  rest,  but 
the  wood  must  be  well  ripened  previously,  and  to  be  of  use  for  early 
forcing,  it  must  be  matured  early,  and  never  have  its  assimilated  juices 
extracted  by  red  spider  or  scale. 
Pines. —  Potting  Sncfters. — The  early  fruited  plants  as  they  finish 
will  afford  suckers,  which  should  be  taken  in  sufficient  quantity  to  meet 
the  demand,  and  be  started  at  once.  These  will  afford  plants  for  fruiting 
about  this  time  next  year,  and  form  a  supplementary  batch  to  those 
started  in  the  spring.  They  require  a  close,  rather  moist  pit,  and  a 
bottom  heat  of  85°  to  90°.  Pay  careful  attention  to  shading,  and  damp 
as  required. 
Spring -potted  Suckers. — If  the  strongest  of  those  potted  last  March 
are  not  in  their  fruiting  pots  they  must  not  longer  be  kept  in  the  small 
ones,  as  that  stunts  their  growth  and  weakens  them,  so  that  they  do  not 
do  well  afterwards.  When  given  their  fruiting  pots  the  plants  should 
have  a  regular  bottom  heat  of  85°  to  95°,  and  be  thoroughly  well  watered 
after  potting,  not  giving  more  until  the  soil  becomes  dry,  always 
avoiding  a  too  wet  soil,  as  that  is  not  favourable  to  the  formation  of 
roots. 
Young  Stock. — The  succession  plants  are  now  making  rapid  progress, 
and  must  not  be  crowded,  or  that  will  result  in  attenuated  growth  and 
poor  shows  of  fruit.  Afford  them  ample  space,  so  as  to  secure  a  sturdy 
growth.  Have  the  foliage  dry  before  it  is  affected  by  the  sun,  ventilat- 
ing  early  in  the  day  at  75°  to  80°.  Watering  should  be  attended  to  once 
a  week,  not  giving  any  until  it  is  found  by  examination  to  be  needed, 
and  then  afford  a  thorough  supply  of  tepid  liquid  manure,  being  careful 
not  to  apply  it  too  strong.  Syringe  the  plants  on  fine  afternoons,  and 
otherwise  maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by  damping  the 
house  ;  but  avoid  a  very  moist  atmosphere  in  dull  weather,  as  it  only 
tends  to  a  soft  growth,  and  that  is  seldom  satisfactory  when  the  weather 
becomes  bright,  often  rendering  shade  imperative  to  prevent  scorching. 
While  water  remains  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  syringing  is  not  required, 
and  in  watering  pour  the  water  well  up  the  plants,  as  they  have  roots  in 
the  axils  of  the  leaves  at  the  base,  which  assist  their  growth  and  make 
them  sturdy. 
Plants  for  Winter  Fruiting. — If  the  strongest  of  the  plants  placed 
in  their  fruiting  pots  la9t  September  are  not  showing  fruit  means  must 
be  taken  to  effect  it.  Bring  them  together,  and  subject  them  to  a  resting 
process  for  a  period  of  four  to  six  weeks,  lowering  the  heat  at  the  roots 
to  75°,  ventilating  at  that  temperature  and  closing  at  the  same,  main¬ 
taining  a  free  circulation  of  air  about  the  plants  in  favourable  weather, 
only  employing  artificial  heat  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below 
60°  at  night.  Water  should  not  be  withheld  :  but  do  not  give  any  until 
a  plant  becomes  dry,  and  then  afford  a  liberal  supply.  When  the  small 
suckers  of  last  autumn  that  were  wintered  in  7  or  8-inch  pots  and 
shifted  this  spring  into  the  fruiting  pots  have  filled  the  pots  with  roots, 
they  may  be  subjected  to  the  same  treatment  as  advised  for  the  larger 
plants,  and  these  will  afford  a  successional  supply  of  fruit. 
Fruiting  Plants. — Those  with  the  crowns  in  close  proximity  to  the' 
glass  will  require  a  slight  shade  from  powerful  sun,  otherwise  they  may 
become  disfigured,  and  the  fruit  also  is  prejudiced  by  exposure  to  fierce 
sun.  Cease  syringing  when  the  fruits  commence  to  colour,  supplying 
water  to  the  roots  as  necessary,  but  avoid  excessive  supplies,  as  a  wet 
state  of  the  soil  is  apt  to  cause  the  fruit  to  become  black  in  the  centre. 
Ventilation  improves  the  quality  of  the  fruit,  therefore  admit  air  when¬ 
ever  circumstances  permit,  not  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  below 
80°  in  the  daytime,  and  maintain  it  at  70°  to  75°  at  night.  Queen  and 
Providence  Pines  started  into  fruit  early  in  February  will  ripen  this 
month,  they  coming  in  three  weeks  to  a  month  in  advance  of  Smooth- 
leaved  Cayenne,  Charlotte  Rothschild,  and  similar  varieties  started  at 
the  same  time,  and  under  similar  conditions.  They  afford  a  good  succes¬ 
sional  supply,  which  may  be  still  further  extended  by  removing  some  of 
the  plants  with  the  fruit  to  a  cooler  bouse.  These  fruits  are  much 
superior  in  freshness  and  using  qualities  to  imported,  the  noble  specimens 
that  are  the  outcome  of  superior  cultivation  completely  eclipsing  those 
produced  abroad.  Indeed,  we  are  of  the  few  in  believing  that  even  this 
