Jtine  io,  185?. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
m 
fruit  ia  nowhere  grown  so  well  as  in  Britain,  and  in  it  could  be  grown  to 
pay  on  the  most  approved  and  economical  method  of  cultivation.  The 
Providence  Pine  has  a  fine  effect  in  table  decorations,  and  though  not 
equal  to  a  Queen  in  quality,  should  be  grown  in  limited  number  for  its 
superior  size  and  showy  appearance.  Enville  also  may  be  mentioned  as 
one  of  the  most  shapely  and  easiest  grown  of  Pine  Apples,  coming  in  at 
height  of  London  season. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Subtropical  Plants. — Most  flower  beds  and  borders  will  be 
ere  this,  but  the  efforts  at  beautifying  a  pjace  ought  not  always  to  be 
confined  to  these  details.  Instead  of  keeping  the  houses  crowded  with 
plants  which  very  few  people  care  to  see  during  the  summer  months, 
some  of  them  should  be  transferred  to  sheltered  nooks.  Many  au 
interesting  corner  might  thus  be  rendered  attractive.  Strong  plants  ol 
Musas,  large  specimens  of  Latanias,  Chammrops,  Seaforthias,  and  other 
comparatively  hardy  Palms,  tall  Cordylines  or  greenhouse  Dracaenas, 
Acacias,  Cyperuses,  Ficuj  elastics,  Arundo  donax,  and  the  variegated 
form  of  Caladium  esculentum,  Yuccas,  Aloes,  and  such  like  are  all  more 
or  less  well  adapted  for  this  purpose.  Shade  is  not  indispensable,  but 
many  of  the  plants  like  a  moderate  amount  of  it,  and  these  may  thus  be 
grouped  where  flowering  plants  would  fail.  Planting  out  is  not  recom¬ 
mended,  the  better  plan  being  to  plunge  the  pots  to  the  rim.  Extra 
good  plants  are  most  effective  quite  by  themselves  plunged  ia  the  turf 
in  some  sheltered  nook,  the  others  being  very  thinly  grouped  in  some¬ 
what  similar  positions.  The  tallest  of  the  Cordylines  and  Musas 
would  be  best  disposed  in  shrubberies  where  they  could  be  seen  with 
only  the  upper  part  of  their  stems  exposed.  Most  of  them,  if  kept 
properly  supplied  with  water,  could  be  returned  to  the  houses  in  the 
autumn  before  severe  frosts  damage  them,  and  would  then  be  available 
for  the  next  season. 
Greenhouse  Flowering  Plants. — Some  of  these  might  also  be 
utilised  for  the  adornment  of  pleasure  grounds.  Fuchsias  invariably 
thrive  well  in  the  open,  oftentimes  after  they  have  refused  to  do  so  under 
glass.  If  it  is  desirous  to  save  the  plants  for  another  year  plunge  the 
pots  to  the  rims  in  the  turf.  Standards  are  very  effective  as  “  dot 
plants”  in  beds  of  Begonias,  while  these,  pyramids  and  bushes,  may 
also  be  placed  in  groups  on  the  lawn  by  plunging  the  pots.  If  kept  well 
supplied  with  water  and  liquid  manure  they  will  flower  grandly  till 
the  autumn.  Cannas  are  very  effective  in  masses,  and  continue  flower¬ 
ing  throughout  the  summer.  These  may  either  be  plunged  or  planted 
out.  Erythrina  crista  galli  attracts  far  more  attention  outside  than  it 
does  under  glass.  A  mass  is  very  effective  either  planted  out  in  a  bed 
or  plunged  in  the  turf.  Hedychium  Gardnerianum  again  grows  very 
sturdily,  and  flowers  grandly  in  the  open  ;  and  if  plunged  in  pots  can 
be  moved  when  getting  shabby,  and  some  other  plants  take  its  place. 
Pyramids  of  Ivy-leaf  Pelargoniums  treated  similarly  to  Fuchsias  are 
very  effective,  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  trained  Pelargoniums 
generally,  and  also  Heliotropes.  Large  Celosias  or  feathered  Cockscombs 
plunged  in  the  turf  in  July  are  very  showy,  and  even  the  ordinary 
Cockscombs,  turned  out  after  they  are  nearly  or  quite  fully  grown,  last 
for  a  long  time. 
Mulching  Flower  Beds. — During  hot  and  dry  weather  there  is 
every  inducement  for  the  watering  pot  and  hose  to  be  freely 
used,  and  this  not  always  to  the  advantage  of  the  plants.  Very  often 
a  light  watering  applied  in  the  evening  is  all  that  is  needed,  the  soil 
though  dry  on  the  surface  being  quite  moist  enough  underneath. 
Constantly  drenching  the  ground  with  cold  water  greatly  impoverishes 
it,  and  many  plants  do  not  thrive  well  under  such  conditions.  A  light 
surfacing  of  common  salt,  stirred  in  with  a  small  Dutch  hoe  or  a  pointed 
stick,  would  make  many  soils  more  retentive  of  moisture,  also  proving  a 
good  manure  when  washed  down  to  the  roots,  and  ought  to  be  tried.  In 
most  caBes  a  mulching  of  either  old  Mushroom  bed  refuse,  leaf  soil, 
well  decayeditanner’s  bark,  fine  peat,  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  or  even  fine 
dry  soil,  would  conserve  the  moisture  in  the  beds  and  obviate  the 
necessity  for  watering  so  frequently.  Especially  ought  Tuberous 
Begonias,  Verbenas,  Fuchsias,  Violas,  and  Calceolarias  to  receive  this 
attention.  First  give  the  beds  a  good  watering,  unless  fortunately  a 
soaking  rain  falls  opportunely,  and  the  next  morning  lightly  stir  and 
level  over  the  suface  with  a  flat  hoe,  and  then  apply  the  mulch,  the 
whole  of  the  bed  being  covered  with  a  moderate  thickness  of  it.  This 
mulching  may  not  wholly  do  away  with  the  necessity  for  watering,  and 
should  the  weather  continue  dry  and  hot  the  soil  ought  to  be  probed 
occasionally,  and  water  given  when  needed. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Preparing-  Celery  Trenches.— Planting  in  double  (lines  in 
trenches  18  to  20  inches  wide  is  a  doubtful  advance  upon  the  older 
practice  of  arranging  in  single  lines.  If  large  “  sticks  ”  are  not  required 
the  plants  may  be  put  out  6  inches  to  8  inches  apart,  and  a  single 
trench  be  made  to  hold  nearly  as  many  as  can  comfortably  be  got  into 
double  rows.  For  these  the  trenches  may  be  from  12  inches  to  15  inches 
wide,  and  4  feet  apart  from  centre  to  centre.  In  the  case  of  cold  clayey 
soils  deep  trenches  are  a  mistake.  Where  the  position,  is  hot  and  dry,  a 
gravelly  or  sandy  subsoil  prevailing,  the  trenches  may  be  made  deeper, 
and  if  the  Celery  is  addicted  to  bolting  much  earlier  than  is  common 
elsewhere,  owing  to  a  deficiency  of  moisture  at  the  roots  after  moulding 
up  has  commenced,  lay  a  loose  drainage  pipe  down  along  the  bottom  of 
the  trench,  with  a  stand-pipe  at  the  upper  or  highest  end  connected 
with  it.  By  means  of  this  drain,  water  or  liquid  manure  can  be  poured 
down  the  stand-pipe  and  distributed  along  the  trench  simply  and 
effectively. 
Celery  Beds. — Very  superior  early,  as  well  as  midseason  and  late 
Celery,  is  sometimes  grown  in  beds  raised  by  the  addition  of  manure, 
fresh  loam,  and  burnt  refuse  above  the  ordinary  garden  level.  In  this 
instance  the  blanching  is  effected  by  means  of  bandages  of  brown  paper 
in  sufficient  quantities  to  exclude  the  light,  a  strip  of  canvas  preserving 
the  paper  late  ia  the  season.  The  advantages  of  these  beds  are  a  warm 
root  run,  facilities  for  watering  and  feeding  as  long  as  need  be,  and 
immunity  from  slug  and  grub  attacks. 
Planting  Celery. — Celery  plants  move  best  when  they  are  not  more 
than  6  inches  high.  When  much  taller  they  are  bound  to  flag  badly 
in  either  dull  or  bright  weather,  whereas  sturdy  plants  scarcely  show 
any  signs  of  trouble.  The  plants  ought  always  to  have  a  good  soaking 
of  water  an  hour  or  two  before  moving  them,  and  each  should  be  cut 
out  with  a  square  of  soil  and  roots,  and  be  cleared  of  weeds,  suckers, 
and  small  leaves.  Replant  firmly,  follow  with  a  good  watering,  and 
during  dry,  hot  weather  keep  well  supplied  with  water. 
Celerlac. — When  the  early  Cauliflower  is  cut  the  plants  may  be 
cleared  off,  the  ground  hoed  and  freed  of  weeds,  and  Celeriac  be  planted 
without  any  further  preparation.  It  is  not  a  strong  leafy  growth  that 
is  wanted,  but  rather  the  formation  of  a  stout  Turnip-like  base,  and  that 
is  why  moderately  rich  yet  firm  ground  is  recommended.  The  plants 
ought  to  have  been  prepared  in  beds,  ready  for  moving,  similarly  to 
ordinary  Celery,  and  should  be  transplanted  equally  carefully.  Dispose 
them  quite  on  tne  level,  15  inches  apart  each  way,  well  fix  them  in  the 
ground,  give  water  at  the  time,  and  occasionally  during  dry  weather, 
till  all  are  well  established. 
Lettuce. — Seeds  of  favourite  varieties  ought  to  be  sown  every  fort¬ 
night  during  June  and  July,  where  the  plants  are  to  heart.  The  square- 
topped  ridges  between  Celery  trenches  suit  Lettuce  admirably,  and  should 
be  utilised  for  this  important  crop.  One  central  row  is  enough  for  the 
spaces  between  early  Celery,  but  two  rows  may  be  grown  between  the 
late  crops.  Make  the  soil  fine  to  a  good  depth,  open  shallow  drills,  and 
if  the  soil  is  in  the  least  dry  water  it  well  prior  to  sowing  the  seeds. 
Beet. — Where  thinning  is  necessary  this  should  not  long  be  delayed. 
Leaving  the  plants  moderately  close  together,  or  6  inches  to  8  inches 
apart,  is  a  preventive  of  coarseness  ;  but  if  the  fault  lies  in  the  direction 
of  the  roots  being  too  small,  leave  them  9  inches  apart,  stirring  between 
the  rows  with  a  Dutch  hoe  about  once  in  a  fortnight  keeps  down  the 
weeds,  prevents  the  ground  from  cracking,  and  conserves  moisture. 
Carrots. — Before  the  rains  came  the  plants  presented  a  very  patchy 
appearance,  but  in  all  probability  much  seed  has  germinated  since.  This 
may  not  be  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  grower,  as  it  not  unfrequently 
happens  that  late  sown  Carrots  form  more  desirable,  if  smaller,  roots 
than  those  raised  earlier.  In  any  case  it  will  soon  be  time  to  sow 
more  seed,  preferably  of  the  stump-rooted  or  Horn  section,  with  a  view 
to  having  an  autumn  supply  of  tender  and  sweet  roots  to  supplement 
late  Peas.  The  drills  may  be  drawn  9  inches  apart,  and  if  the  soil  is  dry 
at  the  time  be  watered  prior  to  sowing.  Late  Carrots  are  much  liable  to 
be  grub  eaten.  Sow  wood  ashes  lightly  with  the  seed  as  a  preventive. 
Thin  main  crop  Carrots  to  a  distance  of  6  .inches  apart,  allowing  more 
space  if  large  roots  are  desired.  The  final  thinning  may  be  done 
gradually,  or  according  as  young  roots  are  required  for  U9e. 
Onions. — The  earlier  these  can  be  thinned  out  in  reason  the  better. 
They  draw  the  most  readily  when  not  more  than  4  inches  high.  If  the 
rows  are  from  10  inches  to  12  inches  apart  thin  out  the  plants  to  a 
distance  of  4  inches  apart,  if  large  bulbs  are  required.  The  most 
serviceable  crops  are  often  never  thinned.  Dust  soot  freely  among  the 
plants,  and  do  not  neglect  an  opportunity  for  surface  hoeing.  Onions 
may  be  transplanted  in  showery  weather. 
Parsnips. — If  Parsnips  are  transplanted  let  it  be  for  the  sake  of 
appearance.  There  should  be  no  undue  delay  in  thinning  out  the  plants 
where  thick,  eventually  leaving  them  from  9  inches  to  1  foot  apart, 
medium  sized  to  comparatively  small  roots  being  of  more  value  than  the 
coarser  ones. 
Sweet  Peas. — Very  early  and  of  free  growth,  coming  into  bloom 
profusely,  were  Sweet  Peas  at  Woodhatch,  the  seeds  being  sown 
in  long  troughs  several  inches  wide  and  deep.  This  is  done  early, 
under  glass,  and  when  the  plants  are  stood  outdoors  in  warm  places, 
the  boxes  are  well  earthed-over  to  encourage  rooting  outside.  Not 
only  are  the  plants  staked,  but  they  are  in  bud.  When  I  saw  them 
recently  outdoors  they  were  blooming  profusely,  thus  furnishing  early 
a  large  supply  of,the  favoured  sweet  perfumed  flowers.  Of  course  it  is 
needful  to  give  the  plants  an  ample  supply  of  water,  and  some  liquid 
mmure.  It  is  surprising  so  treated  how  long  they  oantinae  to  flower. 
No  doubt  the  roots  fin!  their  way  out  of  the  boxes  into  the  moulded-up 
soil  and  manure  mulching.  A  few  days  after  being  at  Roigate  I  saw  a 
grand  row,  the  plants  then  being  fully  4  feet  in  height,  and  also  flower¬ 
ing  profusely  at  Gunnersbury  House.  Mr.  Hudson  sows  in  8-inch  pots 
in  November,  keeps  the  plants  in  a  cool  frame  all  the  winter,  then  turns 
them  out  in  a  warm  part  of  the  garden  into  a  long  row,  and  about 
15  inches  apart,  in  the  spring.  Again,  in  this  way  not  only  wonderfully 
tine  but  very  early  flowers  are  obtained.  Whilst  at  Woodhatch  the 
varieties  are  mixed,  at  Gunnersbury  there  are  but  six  planted  in  blocks 
of  about  a  dozen  pots  each.  They  consist  of  Blanche  Burpee,  the  finest 
white ;  Venus,  soft  flesh  ;  Her  Majesty,  Countess  of  Radnor,  Lady 
Penzance,  and  Firefly  ;  really  a  beautiful  selection.  A  late  sowing  for 
succession  was  just  well  up. — A.  D, 
