520 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
June  17,  1897. 
developed.  As  regards  many  garden  crops,  it  should  be  posiible  to 
have  compounded  manures  specially  fitted  for  their  respective 
requirements,  instead  of  applying  general  mixtures  which,  however 
good  in  themselves,  must,  in  many  cases,  be  to  some  extent  wasteful 
— that  is,  more  of  certain  constituents  are  employed  than  are 
required  by  the  particular  plants  for  which  they  are  used.  The 
economic  and  practical  value  of  a  series  of  experiments  dealing 
with  manures  for  garden  plants  would  be  very  great  ;  but  such  an 
undertaking  would  have  to  be  designed  on  a  thoroughly  scientific 
and  practical  basis  to  insure  reliable  and  useful  result*. 
Then,  too,  there  are  many  cultural  problems  that  need  solution, 
or  difficulties  that  have  only  been  partially  or  locally  mastered,  and 
therefore  require  more  extended  observation  or  repetition  in  other 
districts.  Much  that  perplexes  the  horticultural  student  can  only 
be  satisfactorily  elucidated  by  an  accumulation  of  accurately 
recorded  experience  from  gardens  in  diverse  soils  and  situations, 
and  though  the  volumes  of  the  Journal  of  Horticulture,  for  instance, 
furnish  an  encyclopaedia  of  such  observations  ;  yet  they  would 
require  an  immense  amount  of  labour  or  methodising  and  con¬ 
densing  to  give  the  essential  points  in  a  comparable  form.  Thus  it 
is  that  in  the  daily  work  of  thousands  of  gardens,  what  may  be 
termed  desultory  experiments  on  scores  of  important  subjects  are 
conducted,  the  observations  upon  which,  for  want  of  methodical 
arrangement  and  recording,  are  lost  to  all  but  those  immediately 
concerned  in  the  work,  nor  do  they  even  derive  the  full  benefit  that 
might  accrue  under  systematic  treatment. 
Gardeners  certainly,  in  but  few  instances,  can  devote  either  time 
or  labour  to  experimental  work  pure  and  simple  ;  the  demands  of 
the  present  time  are  too  great,  and  the  means  allowed  too  restricted 
to  permit  of  any  fanciful  indulgences  in  “experimenting,”  yet  an 
observant  man  is  often  induced  to  try  fresh  methods  in  seeking  to 
economise  labour  or  expense,  and  his  efforts  are  really  practical 
experiments  that  may  be  perfect  in  themselves  and  only  need  careful 
noting  and  judging  of  the  results  to  be  of  sound  service.  Too 
often,  however,  such  experiments  are  defective,  and  in  the  very  way 
that  a  scientific  man  would  be  most  likely  to  avoid,  and  it  is  there 
that  the  union  of  practice  with  science  becomes  important.  It 
unfortunately  happens  that  it  is  difficult  to  bring  about  this  union, 
for  there  is  much  too  frequently  a  mutual  distruet  that  is  in  direct 
opposition  to  all  progress.  The  practical  man  is  apt  to  look 
askance  at  the  work  of  the  scientific  man-  because  he  believes  it  to 
be  purely  theoretical,  and  the  latter  falls  into  a  similar  mistake  in 
attaching  too  little  importance  to  the  working  experience  of  years 
which  has  at  least  been  able  to  show  many  cultural  successes. 
It  is  scarcely  possible  to  imagine  a  better  combination  for 
experimental  woi'k  in  horticulture  than  that  of  a  gentleman  with 
a  mind  trained  in  scientific  research,  and  an  educated  cultivator 
who  has  been  similarly  trained  in  bis  calling,  and  whose  powers  of 
observation  are  naturally  acute.  Such  a  union  of  forces  is  possible 
to  thousands  of  amateurs  who  wish  to  render  their  gardens  some¬ 
thing  more  than  mere  source*  of  supply  to  the  kitchen.  The 
interest  which  can  be  obtained  from  experimental  work  even  on 
the  smallest  Beale  is  wonderful  and  never-ending,  and  it  i*  difficult 
to  imagine  any  more  delightful  form  of  recreation  to  the  thoughtful 
man  engaged  in  an  exacting  profession  or  the  rush  of  a  business. 
Many  most  useful  experimental  stations  could  be  thus  formed, 
and  all  that  would  be  required  would  be  methodical  observation  in 
a  general  basis.  Why  should  not  such  observers,  properly 
accredited,  be  placed  in  communication  with  the  Royal  Horti¬ 
cultural  Society  as  a  centre,  in  the  same  way  that  the  Royal 
Meteorological  Society  receives  observations  from  different  stations 
throughout  the  country  ?  The  material  collected  in  this  way  would 
furnish  most  valuable  information  as  time  passed,  and  coming  from 
po  many  different  places  and  soils  would  render  the  facts  of  much 
greater  utility  than  if  from  one  or  two  stations  only.  Even  though 
each  individual  observer  had  to  publish  his  own  results,  such 
experiments  are  greatly  needed,  and  a  few  remark*  will  therefore 
be  offered  on  procedure  in  a  future  issue. — Observer. 
EARLY  CHINESE  PRIMULAS- 
The  Chinese  Primula  is  regarded  as  an  exceptionally  useful 
decorative  plant  because  of  its  freedom  in  blooming  during  the 
winter,  when,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  popular  early  bulbs, 
there  are  few  flowers  to  give  a  display.  In  order,  however,  that 
Primulas  may  bloom  in  the  early  part  of  the  winter,  it  is  necessary 
that  strong  plants  be  secured  from  early  sowings.  These  should  be 
grown  under  favourable  conditions,  when  they  may  be  relied  upon 
to  give  satisfaction.  Pots  or  pans  of  seedlings  from  the  early 
sowings  ought  now  to  be  receiving  cool  treatment,  either  on  a  shelf 
near  the  glass  in  a  greenhouse,  or  similarly  situated  in  a  cold  frame. 
This  renders  them  sturdy  by  inducing  a  steady  growth. 
Before  the  seedlings  begin  to 'crowd  each  other,  transplanting 
ought  to  take  place.  If  this  is  carried  out  while  the  seedlings  are 
yet  small,  they  are  best  placed  about  2  inches  apart  in  pans  or 
boxes,  but  the  larger  examples  that  have  remained  a  longer  time  in 
the  receptacles  in  which  they  germinated,  may  with  advantage  be 
placed  direct  in  small  pots  ;  2^-inch  size  pots  are  usually  the  most 
suitable,  but  seedlings  that  have  germinated  thinly  and  since  grown 
freely,  may  probably  have  developed  sufficient  roots  to  occupy 
larger  sizes  at  the  first  potting. 
The  soil  must  be  light,  open,  and  fairly  rich,  so  as  to  encourage 
the  formation  of  abundance  of  fibrous  rootlets.  Loam,  leaf  soil,, 
with  silver  sand  and  crushed  charcoal,  form  a  good  compost. 
Drain  the  pots  or  pans  well,  and  use  the  compost  in  a  moist,  sweet,, 
friable  state,  so  that  heavy  watering  will  not  be  necessary  at  first. 
Gently  sprinkling  the  plants  and  soil  will  afford  the  refreshment 
and  moisture  demanded. 
Shade  from  bright,  hot  sunshine  is  absolutely  necessary,  not 
only  to  prevent  excessive  evaporation  from  the  soil,  but  to  guard 
the  leaves  against  scorching.  Shade,  moisture,  warmth,  and  a 
genial  atmosphere  are  the  prime  essefitials  for  inducing  active 
growth.  To  these  conditions  must  be  added  the  gradual  admission 
of  air  as  the  strength  of  the  plants  increases.  Let  the  plants 
have  all  the  light  possible  other  than  fierce  sunshine. 
It  is  well  to  move  the  sturdy  young  plants  from  pans  or  boxes 
at  the  earliest  moment  after  the  leaves  encroach  on  each  other’s 
space.  Pot  singly  in  similar  compost  to  that  used  previously. 
For  the  majority  3-inch  pot3  will  be  large  enough.  They  must  be 
clean  and  efficiently  drained.  In  potting  sink  the  plant  low,  but 
keep  the  growing  point  well  visible.  Rootlets  will  be  emitted 
from  the  stem  below  the  bottom  leaves.  These,  of  course,  are  of 
great  advantage  in  strengthening  and  assisting  growth.  Place  the 
pots  in  a  cool  frame,  standing  them  on  a  moist  base  of  ashes  not 
far  from  the  glass.  Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  by  sprinkling 
the  plants  lightly  in  the  afternoons  of  warm  days,  when  the  shading 
employed  in  screening  them  from  the  midday  sun  is  taken  off. 
Moisten  also  the  unoccupied  spaces  (if  any)  in  the  frame.  For  the 
first  week  or  ten  days  the  lights  may  be  kept  closed.  Afterwards 
admit  air  gradually. 
Watering  is  no  less  an  important  detail  than  the  preceding.  As 
the  roots  take  possession  of  the  soil  and  ramify  in  it  towards  the 
sides  of  the  pots,  the  soil  becomes  quickly  dried  on  many  occasions, 
rendering  frequent  attention  necesiary.  Small  pots  in  hot  weather 
should  be  examined  at  least  three  times  daily,  ascertaining  the 
condition  of  each  individual  plant  before  applying  water.  Indis¬ 
criminate  watering  is  an  evil.  It  is  apt  to  sour  the  soil,  especially 
of  those  plants  which  receive  ipore  than  they  want.  Water 
warmed  by  the  sun  or  taken  out  of  a  greenhouse  tank  is  preferable 
to  freshly  drawn  cold  water. 
Unless  larger  plants  are  required  the  next  potting  may  be 
final,  if  the  plants  are  strong'enough  to  be  shifted  into  5  or  6-inch 
sizes.  As  soon  as  the  small  pots  are  well  furnished  with  healthy 
fibrous  roots  the  potting  may  take  place.  The  roots  and  soil  must 
be  thoroughly  moist  when  the  move  is  carried  out  ;  therefore  some 
time  previously  well  water  the  plants.  The  soil  for  potting  must, 
be  good  fibrous  loam  two  parts,  sweet  flaky  leaf  soil  one  part,, 
decomposed  manure  half  a  part,  a  quarter  part  coarse  silver  sand, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  crushed  charcoal.  The  whole  must  be 
well  intermixed  by  turning  over  several  time*,  and  bringing  it  to 
a  moist  state,  if  dry,  by  sprinkling  with  tepid  water. 
The  drainage  in  the  pots  must  be  well  placed,  and  covered  with 
a  layer  of  turfy  fibre,  to  prevent  the  soil  being  washed  down  among  it. 
When  the  plants  are  turned  out  of  the  small  pots,  pick  away  the 
crocks  from  the  base,  and  place  them  in  suitable- sized  pots  before 
introducing  any  soil.  This  admits  of  the  plant  being  low  enough, 
j  so  that  any  bare  *tem  visible  can  be  covered  with  soil,  and  the  pot¬ 
ting  be  more  firmly  carried  out.  If  too  low,  soil  may  be  introduced 
to  raise  it  before  admitting  the  plant.  At  this  shift  there  should 
usually  be  a  space  of  an  inch  all  round  the  ball.  As  the  soil  is  felled 
in  round,  shake  it  down  level,  and  make  it  somewhat  firm  with  & i 
potting  stick.  It  is  quite  important  that  it  should  be  as  firm  as  the 
