538 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  17,  1897. 
As  soon  as  the  root*  have  taken  hold  of  the  new  compost  top  the 
plants,  which  will  result  in  some  four  or  five  growths  from  the  axils  of 
the  leaves.  Select  two  in  the  case  of  two  plants  being  placed  in  a  light, 
four  growths  in  the  case  of  one  plant  only,  and  train  to  the  four  corners 
of  the  frame.  When  about  a  foot  from  the  corners  top  these  growths, 
the  result  being  numerous  laterals,  from  which  we  may  expect  to  get 
our  fruit ,*  should  these,  however,  fail  to  show  fruit  after  the  second  leaf 
top  them,  when  the  sub-laterals  near  the  stem  will  be  sure  to  produce 
flowers. 
Another  method  is  to  allow  the  leader  to  run  to  the  end  of  the  frame 
before  topping  it,  and  taking  the  fruits  from  laterals  produced  from  the 
main  stem.  Both  methods  are  good.  Before  the  flowers  open  give  a 
liberal  watering,  which  will  suffice  to  carry  the  plants  over  the  setting 
period.  Maintain  a  dry  atmosphere  whilst  the  plants  are  in  flower.  If 
the  growths  were  well  selected  in  the  first  place  no  difficulty  will  be 
experienced  in  having  sufficient  frait-bearing  flowers  open  at  one  time 
to  produce  a  crop.  These  should  be  fertilised  just  before  noon  by 
pollen  applied  to  the  stigma  from  the  staminate  flowers,  and  top  the 
laterals  two  leaves  beyond  the  fruit. 
It  is  important  that  the  whole  of  the  crop  be,  if  possible,  set  at  the 
same  time,  as  if  one  or  two  fruits  commence  swelling  before  the  rest 
they  are  sure  to  take  the  lead,  and  the  others  will  either  shrivel,  or 
make  at  the  best  but  poor  specimens.  In  such  a  case  it  is  better  to 
sacrifice  one  or  two  early  fruits,  and  retain  a  later  crop  all  of  uniform 
fruits.  When  the  fruits  are  swelling  freely  thin  to  the  required  number, 
leaving  such  as  are  a  good  distance  from  the  collar  of  the  plants,  placing 
each  one  carefully  on  an  inverted  flower  pot. 
Water  will  be  required  much  more  frequently  when  the  fruits  are 
swelling,  always  giving  it  in  a  tepid  state,  and  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
penetrate  the  whole  mass  of  soil.  Weak  liquid  manure  at  each  watering 
will  help  the  fruits  to  attain  a  large  size  ;  it  must  be  discontinued, 
however,  when  the  fruits  commence  ripening. 
Ventilate  carefully,  providing  a  “  chink  ”  for  air,  if  possible,  before 
the  sun  has  reached  the  frames,  in  order  to  dry  the  fruits  before  the  sun 
can  do  any  harm.  When  it  is  seen  the  fruits  are  commencing  to  net  air 
must  be  admitted  more  abundantly,  leaving  a  chink  on  all  night ;  dis¬ 
continue  syringing  now,  and  gradually  withhold  water  from  the  roots, 
giving  only  sufficient  to  prevent  the  plants  flagging.  Should  the  fruits 
show  sign*  of  cracking,  the  laterals  bearing  them  may  be  partly  severed 
to  check  the  flow  of  sap.  The  flavour  of  Melons  iB  much  improved  by 
placing  them  in  an  airy  fruit  room  about  three  days  before  sending  to 
table. — Youngster. 
A  Short  Account  of  the  Cultivation  of  Dendrobiums. 
Doubtless  some  readers  will  wonder  why  I  have  placed  a  “  short 
account  ”  at  the  head,  but  to  go  into  all  the  minor  details  of  the  cultiva¬ 
tion  would  fill  several  columns  of  this  Journal. 
The  method  of  cultivation  differs  according  to  the  species,  as  some 
of  them  require  a  higher  temperature,  both  to  mature  their  growths,  and 
to  flower  them  in,  than  others.  The  following  “  short  account  ”  refers  to 
the  “  nobile  ”  section. 
If  a  start  is  being  made  with  imported  bulbs,  first  hang  them  up  in  a 
warm,  moiBt  house,  in  a  position  shaded  frcm  the  sun.  An  ordinary 
plant  stove,  with  a  temperature  ranging  about  70°,  will  do  for  them.  If 
they  are  syringed  three  or  four  times  during  the  day,  the  young  roots  and 
growths  will  Boon  begin  to  show  themselves.  When  these  appear,  the 
plants  may  be  placed  in  either  pots,  pans,  or  baskets,  the  latter  being  the 
more  suitable;  Whatever  receptacle  is  used  should  be  thoroughly  clean, 
and  as  small  as  possible,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plant. 
Fill  them  three  parts  full  of  crocks,  and  over  the  crocks  place  a  layer 
of  sphagnum  moss.  The  material  for  potting  should  be  fibrous  peat 
broken  into  lumps,  charcoal,  and  fresh  spiagnum.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  mix  them  previously,  but  the  different  kinds  may  be  placed  in  the 
pot  separately  as  required.  The  plants  should  be  placed  on  a  cone 
above  the  rim  of  the  pots,  and  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure 
the  young  roots  and  growths  that  are  just  forming. 
Water  must  be  sparingly  applied  until  the  roots  have  got  hold  of  the 
compost,  and  then  more  copiously  as  the  growth  advances.  It  is  very 
dangerous  to  allow  them  to  become  dry.  Bain  water  heated  to  the 
temperature  of  the  house  is  the  most  suitable  for  them.  If  dipping  the 
plants  is  resorted  to,  care  must  be  taken  that  they  are  not  plunged 
below  the  base,  or  the  young  growths  are  liable  to  be  injured. 
During  the  growing  season  they  may  be  placed  as  near  the  glass  as 
possible  without  coming  in  contact  with  it,  so  that  they  may  obtain 
plenty  of  light,  but  tl^ey  muBt  be  shaded  from  the  bright  sun.  Syringing 
frequently  between  the  pots  is  beneficial,  but  if  the  plants  are  Byringed 
heavily  the  water  will  lodge  in  the  nodes  and  cause  the  leave*  to  turn 
yellow.  The  paths  of  the  house  ought  to  be  kept  well  damped,  and  if 
the  pipes  are  fitted  with  evaporating  troughs  these  should  be  kept  filled. 
Occasional  fillings  with  weak  liquid  manure  is  beneficial  to  the  plants. 
When  the  growth  is  completed  water  must  be  gradually  withheld, 
and  the  plants  arranged  in  a  cooler  and  drier  atmosphere,  allowing  them 
abundance  of  .air  and  full  exposure  to  the  sun,  so  that  they  may  com¬ 
plete  the  ripening  of  the  growths.  Water  must  not  be  withheld 
altogether,  but  enough  given  to  prevent  shrivelling.  After  the  growths 
are  fully  matured  a  few  plants  may  be  placed  in  a  gentle  heat  to  produce 
early  flowers,  giving  them  a  small  quantity  of  water,  or  they  will  push 
forth  growth*  instead  of  flower  spikes.  By  placing  a  few  in  heat  at 
different  periods  a  succession  of  flowers  may  be  had  from  December  to 
the  end  of  March. 
After  the  plants  have  ceased  flowering,  they  may  be  repotted,  using 
the  Bame  material  as  mentioned  for  those  imported.  The  main  point 
when  potting  is  to  remove  them  out  of  one  pot  into  the  other  without  injury 
to  the  roofs  ;  and  this  done  by  breaking  the  old  pot  or  pan  into  small 
pieces.  Each  piece  should  be  removed  separately,  allowing  those  only 
to  remain  which  have  roots  adhering  to  them,  aDd  these  will  help  to 
serve  as  crocks.  In  the  case  of  baskets,  the  old  ones  should  not  be 
removed,  but  placed  in  the  larger  size  intended  for  the  plant. 
If  more  plant*  are  required  they  are  easily  obtained  by  division  or 
by  cutting  off  some  of  the  pseudo-bulbs  after  flowering  and  laying  them 
in  pans  filled  with  sphagnum  moss.  If  these  are  kept  moist  they  will 
soon  commence  making  growths  at  the  nodes,  and  when  large  enough  to 
be  removed  may  be  placed  three  or  four  in  a  5-inch  pot. 
Red  spider  is  the  worst  enemy  of  the  Dendrobium,  and  when  the  pest 
appears  the  leaves  should  be  sponged  with  a  weak  insecticide. — 
Elveben. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Strawberries. — The  copious  rains  have  improved  the  prospects  of  the 
Strawberry  crops.  Plants,  however,  swelling  good  crops  of  fruit  will  be  greatly 
assisted  by  applications  of  water  or  liquid  manure.  The  latter  stimulant  is 
especially  suitable  to  apply  after  the  ground  has  been  moistened  by  rain, 
because  the  soluble  food  principles  contained  therein  will  be,  when  combined 
with  the  soil  moisture,  readily  appropriated.  Should  a  dry  period  set  in  a*  the 
fruit  is  swelling  clear  water  may  be  freely  given,  followed  by  liquid  manure. 
When  it  is  not  available  the  liberal  waterings  over  the  manurial  mulching  will 
carry  down  to  the  roots  beneficial  sustenance.  Where  the  mulching  material 
is  not  of  a  character  to  keep  the  ripe  fruit  clean  fresh  straw  should  be  laid 
down,  this  either  being  in  long  lengths  or  cut  very  short. 
Propagating  Strawberries. — Early  propagation  is  desirable  when  it  is 
necessary  to  establish  beds  to  produce  a  fair  crop  the  next  season.  A  few 
of  the  best  runners  from  each  fruiting  plant  may  be  selected,  and  the  first 
or  best  plantlet  preserved  for  rooting  into  a  suitable  medium.  The  methods 
adopted  for  insuring  well  rooted  plants  are  the  employment  of  small  pots 
or  squares  of  turf. 
When  pots  are  used,  those  3  inches  in  diameter  are  the'handiest.  Press  into 
the  bottom  a  piece  of  fibrous  turf.  Fill  up  the  remaining  space  with  good 
rich  material  composed  of  loam  and  [decomposed  manure.  Partly  sink  the  pots 
into  the  ground  at  convenient  places  between  the  rows.  With  a  hooked  peg 
or  a  stone  secure  in  each  pot  a  strong  plantlet  just  emitting  roots.  Cut  off 
the  growths  beyond,  also  all  the  remaining  runners  on  the  parent  plants  which 
are  not  required. 
The  turf  system  requires  that  small  turves  about  3  inches  thick  and  square, 
should  be  cut  while  the  grass  is  fresh,  though  if  long  it  may  be  cut  in  closely. 
If  the  weather  is  dry  soak  them  well  in  water  or  liquid  manure.-  Take  out  a 
small  trench  between  the  rows  of  plants  if  convenient,  or  sink  the  squares  in 
the  soil  at  any  suitable  point,  placing  them  grass  side  downwards.  Hooked 
wire  or  wooden  pegs  must  be  employed  to  attach  the  plantlets  firmly  until  roots  ' 
are  emitted.  Stopping  the  growths  beyond  the  plantlets,  and  the  removal  of 
superfluous  runners  must  be  attended  to.  The  young  plants  ought  to  have 
every  facility  for  becoming  strong  and  well  rooted,  which  they  will  do  if  not 
allowed  to  be  crowded  with  weeds  and  a  rank  growth  of  runners.  During  the 
prevalence  of  dry  periods  water  must  be  regularly  supplied.  Those  in  pots 
will  specially  need  attention,  sometimes  requiring  it  twice  a  day'. 
Wall  Trees. —  Thinning  Fruit.—  Give  the  final  thinning  to  Apricots, 
Peaches,  and  Nectarines  if  the  fruits  are  so  thickly  placed  as  to  require  the 
removal  of  some.  Select  the  largest  and  best  placed  for  retaining,  leaving  the 
fruits  finally  5  to  8  inches  apart,  according  to  size  of  variety  and  vigour  of 
trees.  A  little  thinning  may  also  be  given  to  Apples  and  Pears,  removing  all 
but  the  best  fruits  on  a  spur.  The  final  thinning  of  these  may  be  carried  out 
later. 
Syringing  and  Watering.— A  moist  condition  of  the  soil  abcut  the  roots 
and  frequent  syringing  of  the  foliage  in  dry  warm  weather  will  tend  to  keep 
red  spider  and  aphis  in  check.  Occasional  applications  of  liquid  manure  to 
weakly  trees,  or  those  bearing  good  crops  which  may  require  assistance  to 
finish  well,  are  desirable. 
Laying  in  Shoots.—  Attention  given  systematically  to  laying  in  the 
reserved  young  growths  of  Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines  is  well  repaid 
by  the  better  appearance  of  the  trees,  and  the  facility  with  which  abundance 
of  light  and  air  can  reach  the  young  growths.  The  fruit  also  benefits 
largely  because  the  resources  of  the  trees  are  not  drained  by  superfluous 
shoots.  Growths  that  cannot  be  laid  in,  and  which  it  is  not  advisable  to 
cut  out,  shorten  back  to  the  third  leaf  to  form  spurs,  subsequent  growth 
from  the  upper  buds  of  these  being  pinched  at  the  first  leaf. 
