July  11,  1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
45 
The  pots  should  be  clean  inside  and  outside,  have  a  large  crock  in 
each,  and  three  or  four  of  lesser  size  with  some  smaller  still,  as  to  form 
about  an  inch  of  drainage.  This  should  be  secured  with  the  rougher 
parts  of  the  compost  rammed  tightly  down.  Turfy  loam,  strong  rather 
than  light,  must  form  the  staple  of  the  compost.  Break  it  up  roughly, 
adding  a  quart  of  steamed  bonemeal  and  a  similar  proportion  of  soot 
and  wood  ashes  to  every  bushel  of  soil.  If  these  are  not  available  the 
advertised  fertilisers  answer  equally  well,  following  the  instructions 
accompanying  them.  Let  the  compost  be  moderately  dry  when  used, 
for  if  wet  it  will  shrink  after  potting,  leaving  the  sides  of  the  pot. 
Bring  the  soil  in  the  pot  up  to  the  required  height,  ram  it  firmly,  and 
finish  so  that  the  base  of  the  crown  will  be  about  half  an  inch  below  the 
rim,  which  must  be  left  clear  for  watering,  allowing  a  little  more  for  the 
larger  size  of  pot.  Stand  the  pots  on  a  hard  base  in  an  open  sunny 
situation,  but  sheltered  from  strong  winds,  with  sufficient  space  between 
them  to  allow  of  the  full  exposure  of  the  foliage.  Give  water  as  required, 
and  sprinkle  the  foliage  for  a  few  days  after  potting.  If  this  be  followed 
each  evening  it  greatly  assists  the  plants.  When  the  roots  are  working 
freely  in  the  soil  copious  supplies  of  water  will  be  needed,  and  always 
give  suflficient  to  moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage.  The  plants 
must  not  be  allowed  to  flag,  and  the  soil  ought  not  to  be  soddened  by 
needless  waterings.  Kemove  alt  weeds  and  runners  as  they  appear. 
Melons. — Second  Crops. — When  old  plants  are  in  good  health  and 
free  from  red  spider,  blossoms  will  show  freely  on  the  laterals,  even  when 
the  fruit  is  swelling,  but  these  will  not  set  unless  syringing  be  dis¬ 
continued,  which  is  not  advisable,  so  that  lateral  growth  should  be 
encouraged  to  secure  fruit  setting  or  showing  when  the  present  crop  is 
advanced  for  ripening,  and  these  will  set  freely  with  the  drier  atmosphere 
and  be  somewhat  advanced  when  the  fruit  is  cut.  The  plan  is  to  cut 
away  such  old  growths  as  are  useless  and  concentrate  fresh  growth  on 
the  young  fruit.  A  little  of  the  old  soil  may  be  removed,  lumpy  loam 
supplied  with  a  fourth  of  decayed  manure.  Give  a  good  soaking  of 
tepid  water,  and  follow  at  once  with  equally  warm  liquid  manure.  If 
there  is  any  red  spider,  remove  the  worst  infested  leaves,  and  sponge  the 
rest  with  softsoap  solution,  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water. 
The  plants  not  having  the  fruit  set  when  the  first  crop  is  cut,  but 
being  healthy  and  vigorous,  should  be  treated  as  if  they  had  fruit 
swelling,  encouraging  growth,  and  when  they  show  fruit  keep  the  air 
drier  and  ventilation  freer.  They  will  set  and  swell  a  crop  more  quickly 
than  young  plants,  but  if  they  are  exhausted  with  the  first  crop  and 
attacked  by  red  spider  they  would  be  best  rooted  out.  In  that  case 
thoroughly  cleanse  the  house  or  pit,  and  remove  the  old  soil,  supplying 
fresh.  After  giving  the  bed  a  good  watering  where  part  only  of  the  soil 
is  taken  away,  fresh  plants  may  be  put  out.  Keep  them  close,  moist,  and 
shaded,  and  they  will  soon  become  established,  and  show  fruit  so  as  to 
ripen  for  a  late  supply  ;  but  such  structures  must  have  artificial  heat, 
as  Melons  in  late  September  are  apt  to  suffer  in  quality  should  the 
weather  prove  moist  and  cold. 
In  succession  houses  give  support  to  the  fruits  before  they  become 
heavy,  letting  the  tables  slant  so  as  not  to  hold  wet,  and  place  slates 
beneath  the  fruits  of  the  plants  in  pits  and  frames,  raising  them  above 
the  foliage  on  small  inverted  flower  pots  as  the  swelling  advances. 
Fertilise  the  flowers  daily  until  sufficient  fruits  are  set  of  about  equal 
size  on  a  plant,  then  remove  all  the  flowers,  and  reduce  the  fruits  to 
three  or  four  on  a  plant,  according  to  its  vigour. 
Shading  is  most  needed  on  bright  weather  succeeding  a  dull  moist 
period,  but  it  should  only  be  had  recourse  to  for  preventing  flagging. 
Melons  are  benefited  by  a  slight  shade  when  ripening,  especially  when 
the  plants  from  indifferent  health  do  not  supply  moisture  to  the  fruit 
freely.  Repot  any  plants  requiring  it,  and  keep  them  sturdy  by  placing 
them  near  the  glass.  Look  welt  after  canker.  It  often  arises  from 
damp,  and  the  remedy  is  a  drier  atmosphere  or  freer  ventilation,  and 
rubbing  quicklime  into  the  affected  parts. 
Stopping  and  Removing  — When  the  fruit  is  set  and  swelled 
to  the  size  of  an  egg  the  laterals  may  be  pinched  to  one  leaf,  and  if  this 
results  in  too  much  foliage,  so  that  the  leaves  on  the  primary  shoots  are 
crowded  or  shaded  by  them,  thinning  must  be  resorted  to,  removing  a 
little  at  a  time  in  preference  to  a  large  quantity  alt  at  once,  the  latter 
giving  a  check  unfavourable  to  the  fruit  swelling,  not  unfrequently 
causing  it  to  cease.  In  that  case  the  rind  becomes  hard,  and  sometimes 
cracks.  The  plants  should  be  gone  over  at  least  once  a  week,  and  in 
the  case  of  vigorous  plants  twice,  for  stopping  and  the  removal  of 
superfluous  shoots,  the  principal  leaves  being  fully  exposed  to  light 
and  air. 
Melons  never  ought  to  lack  moisture  at  the  roots,  always  supplying 
water  before  the  foliage  flags,  as  a  check  often  has  serious  consequences. 
Over-watering  is  even  worse,  therefore  do  not  afford  a  supply  until 
the  soil  is  becoming  dry,  but  before  flagging  takes  place,  when  a  thorough 
watering  must  be  given.  Plants  swelling  their  fruit  will  need  water 
once  a  week,  even  those  with  a  large  extent  of  root  space  ;  others  with 
lessened  rooting  areas  require  it  twice  a  week,  and  plants  in  boxes  every 
alternate  day  or  oftener,  and  those  in  pots  will  need  water  or  liquid 
manure  once  or  twice  a  day.  When  setting  or  ripening  the  fruit  it  will 
be  sufficient  to  keep  the  foliage  from  flagging. 
During  setting  withhold  water  from  the  foliage,  also  when  the  fruit 
is  ripening.  In  the  swelling  stage  syringe  well  at  closing  time,  sprink¬ 
ling  plants  in  frames  when  they  are  closed  for  the  day.  Admit  a  little 
air  constantly  when  the  fruit  is  setting  and  ripening.  In  frames  it  is 
always  a  good  plan  to  provide  a  little  ventilation  at  night,  increase  it 
early  in  the  morning  of  bright  days,  or  when  75°  is  reached,  keeping 
through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°,  and  closing  sufficiently  early  to  run  op  to 
95°  cr  100°,  and  before  night  admit  a  chink  of  air  at  the  top  of  the  house 
or  back  of  the  frame.  Melons  like  plenty  of  heat.  This  will  now  be 
maintained  without  having  recourse  to  much  artificial  heat  ;  it  will 
suffice  if  the  night  temperature  does  not  fall  below  65°,  and  is  main¬ 
tained  at  70°  to  75°  by  day. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Watering  Flower  Borders.— It  has  been  absolutely  necessary  to 
use  the  watering  pot  rather  freely.  At  the  same  time  it  is  possible  to 
overdo  this,  especially  where  watering  takes  the  form  of  a  thorough 
drenching  with  cold  well  or  spring  water  every  evening.  Where  possible 
all  the  water  used  should  be  first  warmed  by  exposure.  A  mulching  of 
either  fine  well-decayed  manure,  leaf  soil,  spent  tan,  grass  from  the 
mowing  machine,  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  is  particularly  desirable  in 
the  case  of  moisture-loving  plants.  The  least  that  can  be  done  is  to 
keep  the  surface  well  loosened.  Herbaceous  borders,  more  especially 
where  many  of  the  rank  growing  kinds  of  plants  have  not  been  divided 
and  replanted  of  late  years,  are  suffering  badly  from  the  drought.  If 
possible  give  a  thorough  soaking  of  water,  and  then  mulch  freely. 
Babllas. — These  have  grown  remarkably  fast,  and  an  early  display 
should  result.  One  strong  branching  stem  will  give  more  fine  flowers 
than  will  several  all  springing  from  the  roots.  The  plan  of  placing  one 
strong  central  stake  to  each,  with  three  outside  stakes  in  the  case  of 
plants  that  are  to  give  show  blooms,  is  a  good  one.  Reserve  one  side 
growth  for  each  of  these  stakes,  and  pinch  out  the  rest.  All  Dahlias  pay 
for  liberal  treatment.  Dry  weather  favours  the  rapid  increase  of 
earwigs,  and  there  is  every  likelihood  of  these  becoming  very  trouble¬ 
some  this  season.  Anticipate  this  by  commencing  trapping  at  once. 
The  old  fashioned  plan  of  filling  small  flower  pots  with  hay  and  invert¬ 
ing  these  on  the  top  of  the  stakes,  destroying  all  that  collects  in  them, 
answers  well,  and  so  does  that  of  placing  lengths  of  Broad  Bean  stalks 
among  the  plants,  blowing  out  and  destroying  all  that  take  refuge  in 
these.  . 
Pansies. — These,  as  well  as  Violas,  are  disposed  to  flower  with  the 
greatest  freedom  ;  but  this  must  not  be  allowed  if  a  good  display  is 
desired  during  August  and  later.  It  is  quite  young  plants  in  good 
moisture-holding  soil  that  give  the  best  class  of  flowers  in  the  longest 
succession,  and  these  should  be  given  a  mulching  of  some  kind,  and  have 
their  flowers  and  buds  frequently  removed. 
Finks. — Fine,  dry  weather  has  been  favourable  to  the  production 
of  good,  clean  flowers.  It  is  the  young  plants  that  give  the  finest 
blooms,  but  they  are  naturally  had  in  greater  profusion  from  clumps 
two  and  three  years  old.  Some,  therefore,  should  be  propagated  every 
season.  The  old  white  is  still  very  popular;  but  Mrs,  Sinkins  has 
largely  replnced  it,  and  this,  in  its  turn,  will  have  to  give  way  to  Her 
Majesty.  Side  shoots  or  pipings  root  readily.  In  most  localities  the 
best  plan  to  pursue  is  to  prepare  beds  in  shallow  frames  placed  at  the 
foot  of  a  north  wall.  Where  this  has  been  tried  and  failed,  try  what 
can  be  done  with  the  aid  of  a  very  gentle  hotbed.  Let  the  surface  con¬ 
sist  of  about  3  inches  of  fresh  loam  with  leaf  soil  and  sharp  sand  added. 
Short  side  shoots  will  require  little  or  no  further  preparation,  and  will 
root  better  than  any  shoitened  with  a  knife.  Dibble  in  2  inches  or  less 
apart  each  way,  fix  them  firmly,  water,  shut  down  closely,  and  shade 
from  bright  sunshine.  Coloured  as  well  as  white  varieties  may  be 
increased  in  this  way,  _ 
Carnations. — It  is  a  mistake  to  keep  these  long  in  pots  or  boxes,  as 
they  ought  to  be  planted  out  early.  A  foot  apart  each  way  is  none  too 
much  space  to  allow  for  each  plant.  Water  them  occasionally  till 
strongly  rooted.  This  season  maggots  of  what  appears  to  be  one  of  the 
Tephritis  or  leaf-miners  have  attacked  the  hearts  of  seedling  Carnations, 
quite  ruining  the  centres.  They  ought  to  be  searched  for  and  destroyed, 
and  the  plants  dusted  occasionally  with  soot  and  lime.  Border  Car¬ 
nations  should  be  staked  early,  and  tying  up  in  great  bundles  avoided. 
Wallflowers  and  Stocks.  —  The  former  ought  not  to  be  left 
standing  thickly  in  seed  beds,  as  they  cannot  be  kept  too  sturdy,  DibWe 
them  out  in  nursery  beds  6  inches  apart  in  rows  9  inches  apart, 
shoots  of  choice  varieties  may  be  rooted  in  hand-lights.  German  Wall- 
flowers  raised  early,  and  properly  treated,  may  be  kept  dwarfer, 
three  or  four  spikes  obtained  by  stopping  now.  The  present  is  also  a  good 
time  to  sow  seeds  of  the  Brompton  Stocks.  Sow  the  seeds  in  boxes  or 
pans,  stand  in  a  cool  place,  and  keep  shaded  and  moist  till  the  seedlings 
appear.  The  latter  to  be  duly  pricked  out  on  good  ground,  if  possible, 
where  they  are  to  flower.  It  pays  well  to  winter  a  portion  of  the  plants 
in  5-inch  pots,  planting  out  in  the  spring. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Potatoes. — Heavy  rains  have  fallen  soon  enough  to  save  the  later 
varieties  of  Potatoes,’but  many  of  the  earlies  and  second  earlies  had 
ceased  top  growth,  and  the  crops,  such  as  they  are,  are  sufficiently 
matured  for  lifting.  There  should  be  no  waiting  for  the  haulm  to  die 
away  or  protuberation  to  commence,  as  the  tubers  will  keep  well  if 
lifted  before  the  skins  are  hard  set.  An  early  clearance  gives  a  good 
opportunity  for  cropping  the  ground  in  close  succession  with  Straw¬ 
berries,  Turnips,  Lettuce,  Endive,  Spinach,  and  Winter  Greens  generally. 
Turnips. _ Ground  newly  cleared  of  second  early  Potatoes  ought  to 
be  in  admirable  condition  for  a  crop  of  Turnips.  There  should  be  no 
delay  in  sowing  the  seeds,  as  a  good  supply  of  roots  is  indispensable 
during  the  winter.  Snowball,  Green-topped  Stone,  Orange  Jelly,  Yellow 
Petrouski,  Veitch’s  Red  Globe,  and  Chirk  Castle  Black  Stone  are  all  suit¬ 
able  for  present  sowing.  If  birds  are  troublesome  either  just  moisten 
the  seeds  with  petroleum  or  else  damp  them  and  then  roll  in  red  lead. 
Allow  good  room,  drawing  the  seed  drills  15  inches  apart,  and  be  fairly 
