July  18, 1896. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
69 
made  moist  with  clear  water,  A  thoroughly  good  soaking  of  both  is 
essential  for  producing  a  beneficial  effect.  Mulch  immediately  after¬ 
wards  so  as  to  prevent  the  moisture  evaporating.  Restricted  trees 
■hould  have  the  summer  pruning  of  side  shoots  completed,  shortening 
strong  shoots  to  five  or  six  leaves  and  weaker  to  the  fourth. 
Outdoor  Vines. — Secure  growths  to  walls  by  nailing,  or  to  trellises 
by  tying,  so  as  to  fill  up  vacant  spaces  with  extensions  of  new  wood. 
Laterals  may  be  stopped  two  leaves  beyond  the  bunches  of  fruit ;  fruit¬ 
less  laterals,  if  retained,  being  stopped  at  the  sixth  leaf.  The  wood, 
however,  must  not  be  crowded.  Every  main  leaf  ought  to  be  fully 
exposed.  Crowding  is  fatal  to  the  ripening  of  the  wood,  consequently 
prejudicial  to  the  following  year’s  crop.  Extensions  for  filling  vacancies 
may  be  stopped  at  4  feet,  or  before  if  necessary,  so  that  the  wood  for 
covering  the  space  may  have  its  buds  matured  and  enlarged  by  the 
increased  sap  it  receives  consequent  on  the  judicious  check  given.  The 
large  main  leaves  are  capable  of  greatly  assisting  the  buds,  and  ought, 
therefore,  to  be  carefully  preserved  from  injury,  kept  clean,  and  fully 
exposed  to  light.  Thin  the  bunches  of  fruit  to  one  on  a  lateral,  and 
clip  out  all  the  small,  stoneless  berries,  leaving  the  most  promising  for 
swelling.  An  occasional  syringing  will  do  good,  aiding  growth,  cleans¬ 
ing  the  foliage  of  dust,  and  disturbing  insects.  In  very  dry  soils  and 
positions  water  will  be  needed  by  the  roots ;  afterwards  liquid  manure 
if  the  Vines  are  carrying  heavy  crops. 
Ontdoor  Figs. — The  young  shoots  for  future  bearing  must  be  fully 
exposed  to  light,  which  renders  them  short-jointed,  thus  insuring  a 
fruitful  condition.  Strong  shoots  starting  from  the  old  wood  are  not 
desirable  to  reserve  for  bearing,  but  a  few  might  be  utilised  if  necessary 
for  fillii>g  vacancies.  When  it  is  seen  that  shoots  of  this  character  are 
not  wanted  they  are  best  removed  early  by  disbudding  before  extending 
into  strong  growth,  especially  that  assuming  a  foreright  position. 
Stop  the  bearing  shoots  a  few  leaves  above  the  fruit,  and  for  spaces 
where  there  is  only  room  for  a  short  shoot  at  the  fifth  leaf,  but  leave 
the  current  year’s  growth  or  successional  shoots  entirely  unpruned. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines.  —  Early  Houses.  —  The  Vines  cleared  of  their  crops  will 
require  a  comparatively  dry  atmosphere  to  ripen  the  wood,  but  it  will 
not  be  necessary  to  employ  artificial  heat  to  insure  the  requisite  warmth, 
as  that  can  be  effected  by  regulating  the  ventilators  according  to  the 
weather.  Avoid,  however,  a  close  atmosphere,  especially  at  night,  which 
would  have  the  effect  of  inducing  lateral  growth  that  must  be  restrained, 
keeping  the  laterals  and  all  late  growth  well  in  band,  seeking  complete 
maturity  in  the  wood  and  buds  by  keeping  the  house  cool  and  dry.  In 
the  case  of  Vines  that  have  lost  the  lower  leaves  on  the  bearing  shoots 
through  attacks  of  red  spider  or  other  cause,  moderate  lateral  extension 
of  the  laterals  is  desirable,  so  as  to  retain  some  growth  in  the  Vines,  and 
prevent  the  concentration  of  the  sap  on  the  dormant  buds  to  the  extent 
of  starting  them  into  growth.  With  an  outlet  for  the  sap,  such  as  that 
afforded  by  laterals  above  the  pruning  buds,  premature  growth  will  be 
prevented,  whilst  the  buds  and  wood  profit  to  some  extent  by  the 
assimilation  and  storing  of  food. 
A  drier  condition  of  the  soil  is  also  desirable,  but  it  must  not  become 
parched  and  cracked,  which  will  not  occur  if  the  border  has  been 
properly  mulched  or  the  surface  kept  loose.  A  couple  of  inches  thick¬ 
ness  of  sweetened  lumpy  manure,  or  that  depth  of  loose  soil,  conserves 
the  soil  moisture,  whilst  not  depriving  it  of  air.  If  needed,  water  must 
he  supplied  to  keep  the  soil  so  moist  as  to  preserve  the  foliage  in  health, 
and  this  must  be  kept  clean  by  occasional  syringing,  or  the  prompt 
application  of  an  insecticide. 
Vines  in  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — Those  intended  for  starting  at 
the  beginning  of  November  to  afford  ripe  Grapes  late  in  March  or  early 
in  April  should  by  this  time  have  completed  their  growth,  and  be  given 
no  more  water  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  from  becoming  limp, 
exposing  them  to  all  the  light  possible,  so  as  to  thoroughly  ripen  the 
wood  by  concentrating  the  juices  on  the  buds  and  canes,  as  is  done 
under  the  drier  regime.  Keep  the  Vines  free  from  red  spider  and  thrips, 
as  it  is  important  that  the  leaves  perform  their  functions  to  the  last. 
After  the  wood  becomes  brown  and  hard  the  Vines  may  be  stood  on  a 
board  or  slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall,  securing  the  canes  to  the  wall 
to  prevent  damage  by  wind. 
Muscats  Ripening. — These  require  time  and  assistance  from  fire  heat 
to  ripen  perfectly.  A  night  temperature  of  65°  is  imperative,  and  that 
of  the  day  should  be  70°  to  75°  in  dull  weather,  and  with  sun  85°  to  90° 
be  secured  by  judicious  regulation  of  the  ventilators,  yet  having  due 
regard  to  a  free  circulation  of  air.  This  is  imperative  to  prevent 
spotting,  a  little  air  being  admitted  constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition 
of  moisture  on  the  berries,  increasing  it  early  in  the  day,  so  that  the 
Grapes  may  become  warmed  correspondingly  with  the  atmosphere,  and 
be  kept  exhaling.  Muscats  require  a  rather  dry  warm  atmosphere,  for 
under  no  other  conditions  will  they  attain  that  rich  golden  hue 
characteristic  of  their.inapproachable  high  flavour  and  crackling  flesh. 
They  also  need  plentiful  supplies  of  water  when  swelling  and  in  the 
early  stages  of  finishing  their  fruit. 
Attend,  therefore,  to  the  due  watering  of  inside  borders,  and  outside 
also  in  dry  weather.  Too  much  water,  however,  is  even  worse  in  its 
effects  than  a  deficiency,  as  it  produces  a  sodden  and  sour  soil  in  which 
Vines  cannot  thrive.  Too  much  atmospheric  moisture  is  also  fatal  to 
Muscats  when  ripening,  causing  them  to  spot.  To  avoid  this  keep  a 
gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes,  and  admit  a  little  air  constantly 
to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  surfacing  the 
border  inside  after  a  thorough  watering  with  a  little  short,  sweet,  dry 
material. 
Scalding. — Vines  have  scorched  leaves  and  scalded  berries  to  the 
greatest  extent  where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large  and  the  ventilation 
inadequate,  also  where  early  ventilation  is  neglected  and  a  buoyant 
atmosphere  not  maintained.  Scorching  arises  from  the  same  cause,  and 
there  is  no  question  that  both  are  accelerated  by  a  close  saturated 
atmosphere.  Both  can  be  avoided  by  careful  attention  to  the  tempera¬ 
ture  and  ventilatioui  Air  should  be  admitted  rather  freely,  especially 
in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  with  a  little  at  night,  and  a  gentle  warmth 
in  the  pipes  so  as  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  about  70°  artificially 
for  such  varieties  as  Lady  Downe’s,  which  is  the  most  liable  to  scald, 
and  for  Muscats  that  are  subject  to  it  in  lesser  degree.  Hamburghs, 
however,  will  scald,  especially  when  the  Grapes  are  exposed  to  the 
fierce  rays  of  the  sun  after  a  period  of  dull  cold  weather,  and  always 
occurs  at  the  close  of  the  stoning  process  just  before  the  Grapes  change 
colour  for  ripening,  the  period  extending  over  a  fortnight  or  three 
weeks.  A  slight  shade  is  advantageous  at  this  stage  and  during  the 
early  part  of  the  ripening  in  houses  with  large  panes  of  glass,  particu¬ 
larly  for  Muscats,  a  double  thickness  of  herring  nets  drawn  over  the  roof 
lights  is  of  great  service  in  breaking  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun  from 
mid- June  to  the  latter  part  of  July  or  August,  according  to  the  time  of 
the  Grapes  finishing  stoning. 
Shanking. — All  manner  of  surmises  have  been  from  time  to  time 
advanced  as  to  the  cause  of  this  malady,  yet  nothing  for  certain  is 
known  of  its  origination.  Practice  is  far  ahead  of  science  in  this 
matter ;  indeed,  scientists  have  done  little  but  explain  horticultural 
operations,  and  as  regards  shanking  have  done  little  beyond  adding  to  the 
bewilderment  of  cultivators.  Shanking  is  one  of  those  diseases  that 
may  be  avoided  by  providing  proper  soil,  site,  and  environment ;  that 
is,  soil  of  suitable  components,  staple,  efficient  drainage,  and  proper 
culture.  The  great  inducement  to  shanking  is  unsuitable  border  material ; 
its  effeteness  through  inefficient  drainage,  or  roots  deep  in  staple  more 
suitable  than  the  surface.  Heavy  coatings  of  manure  in  the  autumn  or 
winter  allowed  to  become  soapy,  soddening  and  souring  the  soil, 
commonly  results  in  shanking. 
Overfeeding  or  glutting  the  Vines  with  improper  supplies  of  nutrition, 
or  what  would  be  such  if  given  in  due  time  and  suitable  measure,  which, 
instead  of  nourishing  the  Vines  becomes  sour  in  the  soil,  destroys  the 
active  rootlets,  and  shanking  follows.  But  shanking  also  arises  from 
errors  of  treatment.  The  foliage  is  often  not  fully  exposed  to  light, 
more  growth  being  allowed  to  remain  than  can  have  space  for  develop¬ 
ment  without  crowding,  root  action  being  spasmodic  through  encouraging 
it  by  a  thicket  of  growth,  and  suddenly  checked  by  removing  laterals  in 
large  quantities. 
Vines  prone  to  shank  may  often  be  greatly  improved  by  keeping  the 
young  growth  well  regulated,  adopting  the  extension  rather  than  the 
restrictive  system  where  there  is  room  for  it  without  crowding,  keeping 
all  gross  laterals  stopped  so  as  to  cause  an  even  flow  of  sap  throughout 
the  Vines.  The  foliage,  in  all  cases,  must  be  fully  exposed  to  light, 
allowing  no  more  growths  than  can  have  space  for  development  without 
crowding,  and  at  no  time  permitting  such  lateral  growth  as  will 
necessitate  removal  in  large  quantity.  Particular  attention  should  be 
given  to  watering,  keeping  the  Vines  under  rather  than  over-supplied  with 
water  and  nourishment  of  an  organic  nature,  but  freely  using  fertilisers 
that  contain  lime,  such  as  phosphates,  as  lime  is  a  factor  in  respect  of 
shanking.  Outdoor  Vines  are  seldom  affected  by  the  evil.  Avoid  sudden 
fluctuations  of  temperature  by  paying  particular  attention  to  the  venti¬ 
lation,  striving  to  the  utmost  to  secure  a  steady  supply  of  nutriment  and 
its  elaboration,  this  being  essential  for  the  formation  of  starch  and  the 
storing  of  chlorophyll,  so  that  at  the  proper  time  they  may  be  converted 
respectively  into  sugar  and  the  purple-black  or  golden  amber  of  the 
Grapes. 
Flgrs. — Trees  in  Pots  for  Early  Forcing .—TheiQ  must  be  kept  free 
from  red  spider  by  syringing  at  least  once  a  day,  in  hot  weather  twice, 
directing  the  force  of  the  water  against  the  under  side  of  the  leaves, 
and  if  this  is  not  sufficient  an  insecticide  must  be  employed,  as  it  is 
important  that  the  foliage  be  kept  clean,  and  perform  its  functions  to 
the  last.  Afford  liquid  manure  at  the  roots,  not  to  the  extent  of  causing 
exuberance,  but  to  insure  a  due  supply  of  nutriment,  and  the  storing  of 
assimilated  matter  in  the  wood.  Pinching  to  induce  a  neat  habit  in 
young  plants  with  fruitfulness  must  be  attended  to,  regulating  the 
growth  by  stopping  in  accordance  with  the  vigour  and  the  variety. 
Strong-growing  plants  require  more  stopping  than  others  of  moderate 
vigour,  but  in  all  cases  avoid  crowding  the  shoots,  for  fruitfulness  is 
not  so  much  dependant  on  ample  foliage  or  growths  as  on  the  sturdiness 
and  proportion  duly  exposed  to  light.  The  trees  must  be  kept  sufficiently 
far  apart  to  permit  proper  development  in  each  individual,  under  all  the 
light  possible,  according  free  ventilation  to  solidify  the  growth  as  it  is 
made. 
Planted  out  Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  trees  now  have 
the  second  crop  in  an  advanced  state,  and  it  must  be  thinned  if  too 
thickly  set,  there  not  being  any  danger  of  this  crop  dropping,  as  occurs 
frequently  with  the  first,  reserving  the  fruit  at  the  base  of  the  growths, 
as  these  finish  better  than  those  near  the  joints.  Thinning  the  second 
crop  is  of  vital  importance,  because  bearing  is  an  exhausting  process, 
and  the  first  crop  next  year  having  to  be  borne  on  the  well-ripened 
points  of  the  growths  of  the  preceding  year  that  part  must  not  be 
enfeebled  by  carrying  a  heavy  load  of  fruit.  First  crops  are  the  most 
valuable,  and  the  chief  cause  of  their  failure  is  imperfect  ripening  of 
