July  18, 1395, 
71 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Clover  In  Tennis  Xawn  QF,  F.'). — We  doubt  whether  you  can 
destroy  the  Clover  without  spoiling  the  lawn.  Nitrogenous  manures, 
such  as  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia,  applied  at  the  rate  of 
about  an  ounce  to  the  square  yard  encourage  the  growth  of  grass  at  the 
expense  of  Clover,  but  there  is  the  risk  of  the  grass  being  coarse  for  a 
time,  then  of  the  lawn  eventually  becoming  thin.  We  have  no  doubt 
several  persons  would  be  glad  of  such  a  lawn  as  the  one  you  complain 
of.  New  lawns  can  be  made  without  Clover  by  sowing  a  suitable  mixture 
of  grass  seeds  in  well  prepared  soil. 
Rooting'  ivioss  Rose  Cuttings  QDevon'). — Moss  Roses  are  not  so 
easily  raised  from  cuttings  as  most  varieties  are,  but  there  is  no  reason 
why  you  should  not  be  successful  in  establishing  some  on  their  own  roots. 
The  best  form  of  cuttings  are  the  short  half-ripened  growths  that  have 
just  flowered,  these  being  taken  off  with  a  heel  or  small  slice  of  old  wood 
attached,  shortened  to  about  4  inches  in  length,  and  the.  lower  leaves  and 
thorns  removed.  Failing  cuttings  with  heels,  cut  up  long  firm  growths 
into  4-inch  lengths.  Fill  well-drained  5-inch  pots  with  sandy  loam  and 
dibble  in  the  cuttings  firmly  round  the  sides.  Place  the  pots  in  a  pit, 
frame,  or  under  a  hand-light.  Keep  the  cuttings  moist,  close,  and  shaded 
from  bright  sunshine  till  rooted,  then  gradually  harden  off.  Pot  singly, 
using  sandy  loam  and  small  pots,  and  keep  them  in  cold  frames.  In  the 
spring  the  plants  may  be  trusted  out  in  the  open  ground.  They  are 
usually  increased  by  layers. 
Tomatoes  Diseased  or  Damaged  (J.,  A"). — The  smaller  fruits 
have  the  appearance  of  being  scorched  through  water  resting  at  the  eye, 
but  on  raising  the  skin  the  flesh  was  found  quite  black,  and  the  cells 
■destroyed  for  a  little  depth,  that  is,  to  the  seeds,  and  in  this  cavity  there 
is  the  mycelium  of  some  fungus,  which  does  not  extend  over  the  fruit. 
We  have  kept  several  such  fruit,  and  have  not  been  able  to  find 
anything  but  the  mycelial  hypbte,  yet  some  form  of  fungal  body  fixes 
itself^  in  the  integument  of  the  seed  and  remains  there.  This  we  are 
unable  to  refer  to  any  fungus,  as  it  does  not  push  any  outgrowths  or 
fruits,  and  is  certainly  transmitted  by  the  seed.  Such  fruit  are  assailed, 
when  the  skin  breaks  in  the  ripening  fruit,  by  the  larvae  of  the- blue¬ 
bottle  fly,  the  parent  depositing  eggs  in  the  fruit,  and  the  maggots  or 
gentles  ’  live  in  and  fatten  on  the  flesh  of  the  Tomato,  which  soon 
becomes  a  putrescent  and  offensive  mass,  so  much  so  that  we  are 
reluctantly  obliged  to  destroy  all  specimens,  and  this  precludes  ■  our 
ascertaining  to  what  the  fungus  might  develop.  It  has  been  attributed 
to  bacteria,  but  the  schi^omycetes  do  aot  appear  until  the  fruit 
commences  to  decay,  and  certainly  are  of  a  very  dangerous  nature. 
They  are  not  the  cause  of  the  black  spot  or  stripe,  which  assuredly 
enters  the  fruity  by  the  eye — the  pistil  part  of  the  flower — possibly 
during  fertilisation,  and  is  a  most  puzzling  disease.  Possibly  the 
epidermis  ii  weakened  by  the  water  standing  on  it,  and  the  sun  acting 
■on  the  moisture  would  cause  scalding,  but  why  it  should  invariably 
occur  at  the  eye  of  the  fruit  is  not  so  clear.  There  has  not  been  any 
damage  by  nailing,  for  that  could  hardly  have  been  done  in  one  place. 
The  disease  has  not  spread  upward,  for  the  footstalks  are  perfectly 
healthy,  also  the  lower  part  of  the  fruit,  hence  it  has  no  connection  with 
drooping  disease  or  any  other  disease  yet  determined. 
Recipe  for  Preservlngr  Vegretablos  (A.  W.).  —  We  have  had 
some  diflSculty  in  finding  the  recipes  for  preserving  green  vegetables,  but 
we  think  the  following  are  those  to  which  you  refer : — French  and  Runner 
Beans  are  always  appreciated,  and  the  former  especially,  might  well  be 
extensively  grown,  especially  for  storing.  In  all  probability  it  would 
pay  well  to  prepare  them  largely  for  winter  use,  and  those  who  can  place 
a  good  article  on  the  market  would  have  the  monopoly  as  far  as 
foreign  competitors  are  concerned.  A  good  recipe  for  preserving  them 
is  as  follows  Pick  and  string  any  given  quantity  of  young  Beans,  and 
throw  them  into  a  large  untinned  copper  preserving  pan  containing 
boiling  water  strongly  impregnated  with  salt,  cover  them  with  fresh 
Vine  leaves,  and  set  them  aside  for  twenty-four  hours.  They  should  then 
be  drained  upon  a  sieve,  gathered  up  in  neatly  arranged  bunches,  and 
packed  closely  together,  in  either  jars,  bottles,  or  tin  boxes,  filling  up 
with  fresh  water  slightly  fiavoured  with  salt.  Cork  down,  or  otherwise 
make  these  air-tight,  leakages  also  being  remedied,  and  store  in  a  cool 
place  till  wanted  for  use.  Peas  and  Broad  Beans  are  worthy  of  being 
extensively  preserved,  and  for  these  also  I  have  a  recipe  that  will  be 
hard  to  surpass.  Tins  or  cans  have  hitherto  been  principally  used  for 
these,  and  those  who  intend  trying  what  they  can  do  in  the  way  of  pre¬ 
serving  Peas  should  first  obtain  a  sample  tin  or  can  from  an  Italian 
warehouse  or  grocer,  and  get  a  local  tinman  to  copy  and  make  the 
requisite  number  with  their  tops  ready  for  soldering  down  complete. 
Fill  these  with  fresh,  newly  shelled  Peas  ;  cover  with  water  to  which  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  or  enough  to  well  impregnate  it  has  been  added,  and 
then  solder  or  screw  down  the  tops  as  the  case  may  be.  Place  them  in 
a  stock  pot  or  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  fast 
for  half  an  hour,  and  then  withdraw.  Examine  the  tins  for  leakages, 
solder  over,  and  store  in  a  cool  dry  cellar.  If  strong  glass  bottles 
or  jars  can  be  procured,  these  are  decidedly  preferable.  Carrots  in  a 
young  state  are  largely  preserved,  and  a  very  tender  dish  is  available 
accordingly  during  the  winter.  These  should  be  closely  trimmed, 
lightly  scraped,  and  dropped  into  hot  water  according  as  they  are 
done.  When  enough  are  ready,  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with  water 
sufficient  to  cover  them,  adding  fresh  butter  at  the  rate  of  1  oz.  to  the 
pound  of  Carrots,  and  salt  to  season.  Boil  the  Carrots  in  this  till  half 
done,  arrange  them  closely  in  jars  or  tins,  fill  with  their  own  liquor, 
fasten  or  solder  down,  boil  for  half  an  hour,  and  store  in  a  cool  place. 
Mushrooms — “  buttons  ” — can  be  preserved  against  the  time  when  fresh 
ones  cannot  be  had.  They  must  be  quite  fresh  and  firm  for  the  purpose. 
be  washed,  packed  in  boxes  or  jars,  and  these  filled  with  water,  to  every 
quart  of  which  4  ozs.  of  butter,  1  oz.  of  salt,  and  the  juice  of  three 
Lemons  has  been  aided.  Afier  being  duly  fastened  or  soldered  down 
they  ought  to  be  boiled  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
layering  Dapagrerla  alba  (A.  <S.).  —  It  is  useless  to  attempt 
raising  Lapagerias  from  cuttings,  the  only  two  sure  methods  of  propa¬ 
gating  them  are  by  seeds  and  layering.  Seeds  should  be  sown  very  soon 
after  it  is  taken  from  the  pod,  but  the  bulk  of  the  plants  distributed  in 
this  country  are  obtained  by  layering  the  long  firm  growths.  Fill  either 
a  well  drained  box  or  pan  with  peaty  soil,  and  on  tbis  coil  one  or  more 
long,  well  matured  growths.  Peg  them  down  into  the  soil  so  as  to 
just  bury  the  stem,  a  peg  to  every  joint,  the  leaves,  however,  being  above 
ground,  and  if  kept  properly  supplied  with  moisture — that  is  to  say, 
kept  uniformly  moist  but  not  saturated,  roots,  and  eventually  a  young 
shoot,  will  be  emitted  at  nearly  every  joint.  When  well  rooted  all  may 
be  separated,  carefully  lifted,  and  potted  off  singly.  It  is  a  slow  process, 
but  a  sure  one.  We  believe  an  expert  propagator  has  rooted  Lapageria 
cuttings  as  a  feat  of  skill,  but  this  method  of  increase  cannot  be  usefully 
practised  by  gardeners. 
Azalea  Indlca  from  Cuttlngrs  (21  A.). — Most  of  the  plants  cul¬ 
tivated  in  this  country  are  obtained  Dy  grafting  choice  varieties  on  a 
vigorous  growing  common  Azalea,  and  in  this  manner  they  can  be  the 
most  quickly  grown  to  a  serviceable  size.  Cuttings  are  not  difficult  to 
root,  and  own-root  plants  are  usually  the  most  dwarf  in  habit.  The 
cuttings  should  be  made  from  young  or  this  season’s  growth,  which  is 
now  sufficiently  firm  for  the*'  purpose.  They  ought  to  be  about  3  inches 
long,  cut  to  a  joint,  and  the  lower  leaves  trimmed  off.  A  bell-glass  will 
be  needed  for  covering  them,  and  the  pot  used  should  be  just  large 
enough  to  enclose  this  inside  of  the  rim.  Well  drain  the  pot,  fill  up 
firmly  with  sandy  peat  soil,  and  finish  off  with  a  thick  surfacing  of  silver 
sand.  Insert  the  cuttings  thickly,  taking  care  that  they  touch  the 
bottom  of  the  holes,  and  to  fix  them  firmly,  then  give  water  through  a 
fine  rose  and  cover  with  the  bell-glass.  A  gentle  heat,  or  from  55°  to 
60°,  is  necessary,  and  the  cuttings  must  be  carefully  shaded.  After  they 
are  rooted,  which  is  a  slow  process,  remove  them  to  a  cooler  house,  and 
gradually  remove  the  bell-glass.  Pot  singly  in  thumb  pots,  and  keep 
them  in  a  close  frame  till  they  have  rooted  into  the  fresh  soil  (fine  peat 
and  sand),  pinch  out  their  points,  and  keep  them  steadily,  growing*  ft 
larger  shift  being  given  as  needed. 
XTames  of  Plants. — We  only  undertake  to  name  species  of  plants, 
not  varieties  that  have  originated  from  seeds  and  termed  fiorists’  flowers. 
Flowering  specimens  are  necessary  of  flowering  plants,  and  Fern  fronds 
should  bear  spores.  Specimens  should  arrive  in  a  fresh  state  in  firm 
boxes.  Slightly  damp  moss,  soft  green  grass,  or  leaves  form  the  best 
packing,  dry  wool  the  worst.  Not  more  than  six  specimens  can  be  named 
at  once,  and  the  numbers  should  be  visible  without  untying  the  ligatures, 
it  being  often  difficult  to  separate  them  when  the  paper  is  damp. 
(N,  AT.). — Hemerocallis  Dumortieri.  (5.  A). — 1,  Veronica  spicata  ; 
2,  Tradescantia  virginica  ;  3,  Spiraea  venusta  ;  4,  Campanula  lactiflora. 
(A  A.). — Adiantum  graciilimum.  (A.  A) — 1,  Rhus  cotinus  ;  2,  Genista 
virgata.  (21  W.  IF.). — Ipomoea  Quamoclit. 
OOVENT  GARDEN  MARKET.— July  17th. 
OUTDOOE  fruit  in  good  supply.  Prices  better. 
FRUIT. 
1. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
3. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples,  Nova  Scotia, 
per 
Currants,  per  half  sieve 
•  « 
3 
0  to  4 
0 
barrel . . 
10 
0to21 
0 
Grapes,  per  lb . 
0 
6 
2 
0 
„  Tasmanian, 
per 
Lemons,  case  ..  .. 
10 
0 
15 
0 
case  . . 
5 
0 
11 
0 
Peaches,  per  dozen  . . 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Cherries,  per  half  sieve 
4 
0 
5 
6 
St.  Michael  Pines,  each 
•  * 
2 
y 
6 
0 
Cobs,  per  100  lbs.  ,. 
•  • 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Strawberries,  per  lb.  . . 
•  • 
0 
4 
1 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
a. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
a. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Beans,  Kidney,  per  lb. 
0 
6 
to  0 
0 
Mustard  and  Cress,  punnet 
0 
2 
to  0 
0 
Beet,  Red,  dozen  . .  . . 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Omons,  bushel  ••  «• 
3 
6 
4 
0 
Carrots,  bunch  . .  . . 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Parsley,  dozen  bunches 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cauliflowers,  dozen  . . 
3 
0 
6 
0 
Parsnips,  dozen  ..  .. 
1 
0 
0 
ti 
Celery,  bundle  . .  . . 
1 
0 
1 
3 
Potatoes,  per  cwt. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Ooleworts.  dozen  bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy,  bundle  . .  . . 
1* 
0 
1 
6 
Cucumbers,  dozen  . . 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Seakaie,  per  basket  . . 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Endive,  dozen  . .  . . 
1 
3 
1 
6 
Scorzonera,  bundle  .. 
1 
8 
U 
0 
Herbs,  bunch  ..  .. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots,  per  lb . 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Leeks,  bunch  ..  .. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Spinach,  bushel  . .  . . 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Lettuce,  dozen  ..  .. 
0 
9 
1 
6 
Tomatoes ,  per  lb. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Mushrooms,  punnet  .. 
•  • 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Turnips,  bunch  ..  .. 
0 
3 
U 
6 
AVERAGE  WHOLESALE 
PRICES.- 
COT  FLOWERS. — Orchid  Blooms  in  variety. 
B 
d 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
a. 
d. 
rum  Lilies,  12  blooms  .. 
sparagus  Fern,  per  bunch 
cuvardias,  bunch  ..  .. 
arnations,  12  blooms 
„  dozen  bunches., 
ornflower  „  „ 
ucharis.  dozen . 
aillardias,  doz.  bunches., 
ardenias,  dozen  . .  . . 
eranium,  scarlet,  doz. 
bunches . 
ilac  (French)  per  bunch 
ilium  candidum,  12  blooms 
„  „  doz.  bunches 
„  lancifolium,  12  blooms 
„  longiflorum,  12  blooms 
iarguerites,  12  bunches  . . 
Maidenhair  Fern,  dozen 
bnnches  . 
0  to  4 
4 
1 
4 
8 
2 
6 
8 
4 
6 
5 
1 
15 
2 
4 
3 
4  0 
6  0 
Orchids,  dozen  blooms 
Pansies,  various,  dozen 
bunches . 
Peas,  Sweet,  doz.  bunches . . 
Pelargoniums,  12  bunches 
Primula(double),  doz.  spys. 
Roses  (indoor),  dozen 
„  Moss,  per  dozen  . .  . . 
„  Tea,  white,  dozen 
,,  Yellow,  dozen  (Niels) 
„  Safrano  (English), 
dozen . 
„  Yellow,  dozen  blooms 
„  Red,  dozen  blooms  .. 
,,  various,  doz.  bunches 
Smilax,  per  bunch  ..  .. 
Stephanotis,  dozen  sprays 
Tuberoses,  12  blooms..  .. 
1  6  to  12  0 
1  0 
2  0 
6  0 
0  6 
1  0 
1  0 
1  0 
3  y 
2 
4 
9 
1 
2 
2 
2 
6 
2  0 
1  0 
2  0 
9  0 
6  0 
2  y 
0  s 
