July  25,  1895 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
95 
Faulownla  Imperlalis  (H.  L.'). — The  tree  must  be  growing  in  an 
unsuitable  soil  or  situation,  as,  apart  from  tbe  actual  injury  to  the 
texture  of  the  leaves,  they  have  an  extremely  unhealthy  appearance. 
We  do  not  think,  the  cause  you  assign  could  have  produced  such  effects 
without  seriously  damaging  the  tree. 
Asters  Dying-  {Charles  Beilis). — The  plants  have  the  appearance 
of  being  overdone  with  liquid  manure,  or  some  substance  which  has 
destroyed  the  roots  and  tissue  at  the  collar.  On  this  point  you  offer  no 
evidence.  We  made  an  examination  of  the  dead  tissue,  but  found 
nothing  on  the  roots  except  the  mycelium  and  a  few  outgrowths  of 
a  fungus  (Fusarium  myosotides),  which  causes  the  sudden  collapse  of 
Myosotis  and  similar  plants,  including  Calceolarias,  that  are  grown 
frequently  on  the  same  ground.  The  spores  are  in  the  soil,  and  appear 
to  follow  on  plants  with  a  fibrous  root  formation.  Dressings  of  lime 
and  change  ot  ground  are  the  best  preventives.  As  a  remedy  a  quick 
acting  disinfectant  is  advised,  such  as  soluble  phenyle  or  creolin,  a  wine- 
glassful  to  4  gallons  of  water. 
Diseased  Tomatoes  {H.  M.). — The  Tomatoes  sent  were  perfectly 
fertilised,  and  probably  attacked  by  the  destructive  parasite  Cladosporium 
lycopersici,  though  not  in  an  advanced  form.  Most  of  the  Tomato 
fungi  are  in  their  earlier  stages  quite  superficial,  so  that  if  remedies 
are  applied  in  good  time  recovery  appears  possible.  The  fungus 
spreads  from  the  leaves,  also  from  one  fruit  to  another,  till  at  last 
leaves,  stems,  and  fruits  collapse.  All  badly  affected  fruits  should 
be  gathered  and  burned  ;  the  house  kept  warm,  dry,  and  well  ventilated  ; 
and  the  plants  thoroughly  sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mixture — say  2  ozs, 
of  sulphate  of  copper  dissolved  in  half  a  gallon  of  water  in  a  vessel  by 
itself,  slacking  2  ozs.  of  quicklime  in  another  vessel,  and  forming  a  thin 
whitewash.  Then  pour  this  into  a  veasel  containing  the  sulphate  of 
copper  solution  slowly  through  a  hair  sieve  ;  add  water  enough  to  make 
3^  gallons,  stir  well,  and  apply  to  every  part  of  the  plants,  coating  them 
evenly  with  the  thinnest  possible  film  of  the  Bordeaux  mixture.  This 
must  not  be  applied  to  ripe  fruit. 
nsarguerltes  {P,  F.), — These  are  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the 
young  growing  shoots,  and  root  freely  at  almost  any  period  of  the  year. 
For  bedding,  they  can  either  be  rooted  early  in  September  or  early  in 
the  spring.  We  prefer  the  latter,  because  large  plants  can  quickly  be 
produced  by  liberal  treatment.  From  June  to  September  they  root 
freely  in  any  sandy  soil  in  cold  frames,  either  singly,  or  a  number 
together  in  pots.  Cuttings  are  liable  to  damp  during  the  autumn,  but 
root  readily  enough  in  a  temperature  of  60°  during  the  spring  months. 
Plants  rooted  in  August,  grown  cool,  and  their  shoots  pinched,  will 
dower  towards  the  end  of  March.  Cuttings  rooted  early  in  the  spring 
will  succeed  these.  Root  a  few  at  intervals  of  a  month  or  five  weeks, 
and  you  should  not  be  without  flowers.  Plants  rooted  in  April  and 
May,  and  then  grown  outside,  will  flower  splendidly  during  the  autumn. 
If  you  want  large  specimens,  plant  out  spring-rooted  cuttings  ;  lift  and 
pot  them  in  September ;  winter  them  in  a  cool  house,  and  they  will 
yield  quantities  of  flower  in  the  spring. 
Carnation  Souvenir  de  la  nialmalson  {T,  R.). — If  your  plants 
are  dwarf  with  good  stout  shoots  at  the  base,  transfer  them  to  pots 
2  inches  larger.  Drain  the  pots  liberally,  and  press  the  soil  moderately 
firm.  Do  not  disturb  the  old  balls  farther  than  is  necessary  to  remove 
the  drainage.  The  soil  may  consist  of  good  fibry  loam  two  parts,  the 
other  part  being  composed  of  leaf  mould,  sand,  and  decayed  manure. 
One-seventh  of  the  latter  will  be  ample.  Stand  them  outside  and  water 
carefully  afterwards.  If  possible  peg  the  shoots  down  on  the  surface  of 
the  soil  after  they  are  potted.  If  you  wish  to  preserve  the  plants  for 
flowering  another  year,  and  the  growths  are  long  and  straggling,  the 
shoots  may  be  trained  carefully  to  stakes  after  the  plants  have  been 
potted.  When  this  is  carefully  done  straggling  plants  may  be  con¬ 
siderably  reduced  in  height  and  converted  into  creditable  bushes  that 
will  flower  again  freely  another  year.  To  increase  the  number  of  your 
plants,  the  shoots  may  be  taken,  inserted  singly  in  small  pots,  and  stood 
under  hand-lights  until  they  are  rooted.  The  plant  may  also  be  placed 
out  in  a  sloping  direction,  and  all  the  growing  shoots  layered,  which, 
when  rooted,  can  be  taken  up  and  potted. 
Dendrobium  Wardianum  {Amateur). — The  fact  of  Dandrobium 
Wardianum  throwing  out  new  growths  from  the  old  pseudo-bulbs  may 
or  may  not  indicate  indifferent  treatment.  If  tne  bulbs  in  question 
produced  during  the  spring  a  fair  complement  of  flowers,  it  shows  that 
they  had  been  properly  ripened  and  otherwise  well  treated,  and  the 
growths  are  an  advantage  rather  than  otherwise  as  affording  a  means  of 
propagation.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  they  did  not  flower  or  only 
sparingly,  then  it  is  evident  that  something  has  gone  wrong  in  the 
annual  routine  of  the  plant’s  growth.  A  frequent  cause  of  the  flower 
buds  giving  place  to  growth  is  allowing  too  much  atmospheric  moisture 
during  the  early  stages,  and  as  last  season  was  by  no  means  an  ideal  one 
for  ripening  the  growth  this  may  also  have  contributed  to  it.  The 
young  shoots  will  he  better  left  on  the  plants  until  next  spring,  when 
they  may  be  cut  off  and  either  potted  separately  or  grouped  to  form  a 
better  specimen.  Orchids  can,  of  course,  be  forced  by  placing  in  great 
heat  and  moisture,  but  it  would  not  be  advisable  for  any  of  them,  and 
positively  fatal  to  many.  The  stewing  steamy  heat  arising  from 
damping,  overheated  pipes  is  not  good  for  any  kind  of  vegetation,  and 
certainly  not  Orchids,  that  of  all  plants  delight  in  a  fresh,  airy  tempera¬ 
ture.  The  fibre  you  speak  of  is  an  exceilent  rooting  medium  for 
Orchids,  and  we  have  had  good  results  from  its  use,  especially  with 
Odontoglossums.  If  by  ordinary  peat  you  mean  that  generally  used  for 
the  usual  run  of  stove  and  greenhouse  plants,  the  Fern  roots  are 
certainly  preferable  to  this,  but  not  to  the  best  heath  peat  as  usually 
recommended  for  Orchids,  this  material  being  much  more  long  lasting, 
and  not  so  likely  to  sour  from  continual  watering. 
Insects  on  Vine  Xieaves  {Medico). — The  minute  specks  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves  are  the  so-called  red  spider  in  various  stages  of 
development,  from  the  egg  to  the  perfect  mite  (Tetranychus  telarius), 
with  eight  seven-jointed  legs.  It  is  one  of  the  worst  pests  of  Vines,  and 
is  chiefly  due  to  a  deficiency  of  atmospheric  moisture  and  lack  of  water 
or  nourishinent  at  the  roots.  Sulphur  fumes  are  the  most  fatal  to  it 
(and  all  mites)  of  any  known  substance,  but  they  must  not  be  from 
burning  sulphur,  as  then  vegetation  is  seriously,  if  not  fatally,  injured. 
In  the  case  of  unheated  houses  flowers  of  sulpUur  may  be  placed  on 
slates  or  iron  plates,  and  placed  on  shelves  where  the  sun  can  act  directly 
on  them.  Some  prefer  placing  the  sulphur  in  saucers,  setting  them 
on  shelves,  with  water  sufficient  to  cover  the  sulphur,  and  the  water 
vapour  being  given  off,  acts  well  on  the  red  spider.  We  prefer  to  heat 
the  pipes  to  as  near  boiling  as  they  can  be  without  making  the  water 
boil,  and  whilst  hot  paint  them  with  a  cream  formed  of  flowers  of 
sulphur  and  skim  milk,  applying  with  a  brush,  so  as  to  put  on  a  light 
coating.  The  house  being  closed,  and  kept  so  for  about  an  hour, 
there  will  usually  be  fumes  given  off  sufficient  to  kill  the  red  spider, 
when  the  pipes  may  be  allowed  to  cool  down,  and  the  usual  routine 
followed.  The  sulphuring  must  not  be  overdone,  or  it  will  injure 
Grapes  with  tender  skins,  such  as  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  Fron- 
tignans,  but  with  cautious  use  it  has  no  injurious  effects.  After  the  pipes 
are  cool,  or  next  day,  the  sulphur  should  be  wiped  off  the  pipes,  but 
some  leave  a  little  on,  so  that  when  the  pipes  are  heated  they  give  off 
slight  fumes  from  the  sulphur,  which  act  well  against  both  fungi  and 
red  spider.  Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  by  sprinkling  the  floor  and 
border,  and  supply  top-dressings  of  the  advertised  fertilisers  washed  in 
or  liquid  manure  to  the  roots.  This  and  a  slight  use  of  sulphur  is  all 
that  is  necessary. 
names  of  Plants. — We  only  undertake  to  name  species  of  plants, 
not  varieties  that  have  originated  from  seeds  and  termed  florists’  flowers. 
Flowering  specimens  are  necessary  of  flowering  plants,  and  Fern  fronds 
should  bear  spores.  Specimens  should  arrive  in  a  fresh  state  in  firm 
boxes.  Slightly  damp  moss,  soft  green  grass,  or  leaves  form  the  best 
packing,  dry  wool  the  worst.  Not  more  than  six  specimens  can  be  named 
at  once,  and  the  numbers  should  be  visible  without  untying  the  ligatures, 
it  being  often  difficult  to  separate  them  when  the  paper  is  damp. 
{W,  M,  M.,  Ross-shire). — 1,  Cattleya  gigas  ;  2,  Cattleya  Rex;  3, 
Cattleya  Mendelli  ;  4,  Dendrobium  no  bile  album.  {No  Name). — 1, 
Lilium  croceum  ;  2,  Cytisus,  probably  racemosus  ;  3,  Campanula 
rapunculoides  ;  4,  Epilobium  angustissimum  :  5,  Auchusa  sempervirens  ; 
6,  Aristolochia  clematitis.  {F.  M.  IF.), — 1,  Adiantum  pubescens  ;  2, 
A.  tenerum  ;  3,  A.  Moorei  ;  4,  possibly  a  seedling  from  Pteris  cretica  ; 
5,  Pteris  cretica ;  6,  Asplenium  viviparum.  {D.  F.). — 1,  Veronica 
rupestris  ;  2,  Doronicum  austriacum  ;  3,  Viburnum  Opuius  ;  4,  Cassinia 
fulvida.  {Grateful). — Acineta  chrysantha. 
OOVENT  GARDEN  MARKET.— July  24th. 
Supplies  shorter  owing  to  the  rain. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
s.  d. 
s.  d. 
s. 
d. 
Apples,  Nova  Scotia,  per 
Currants,  per  half  sieve  ..  3  0  to 
5 
0 
barrel . 
0 
0 
to  0  0 
Grapes,  per  lb . 0  6 
1 
6 
„  Tasmanian,  per 
Lemons,  case  . 10  0 
15 
0 
case . 
0 
0 
0  0 
Peaches,  per  dozen  ..  ..  2  0 
8 
0 
Cherries,  per  half  sieve  . . 
4 
0 
5  6 
St.  Michael  Pines,  each  . .  2  U 
6 
0 
Cobs,  per  iOO  lbs . 
0 
0 
U  0 
Strawberries,  per  lb .  0  4 
1 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
B. 
d. 
a.  d. 
B.  d. 
8. 
d. 
Beans,  Kidney,  per  lb.  .. 
0 
6 
to  0  0 
Mustard  and  Cress,  punnet  0  2  to 
0 
u 
Beet,  Red,  dozen . 
1 
0 
0  0 
Onions,  bushel . 3  6 
4 
0 
Carrots,  bunch . 
0 
3 
0  4 
Parsley,  dozen  bunches  . .  2  0 
3  , 
0 
Cauliflowers,  dozen  . .  . . 
3 
0 
6  0 
Parsnips,  dozen . 1  0 
0 
6 
Celery,  bundle  . 
1 
0 
1  3 
Potatoes,  per  cwt . 2  0 
4 
0 
Ooleworts,  dozen  bunches 
2 
0 
4  0 
Salsafy,  bundle . 1  0 
1 
6 
Cucumbers,  dozen  ,.  ., 
1 
6 
3  0 
Seakaie,  per  basket  . .  . .  0  0 
0 
0 
Endive,  dozen  . 
1 
3 
1  6 
Scorzonera,  bundle  . .  , .  1  B 
0 
0 
Herbs,  bunch  ..  .. 
0 
3 
0  0 
Shallots,  per  lb . 0  3 
Spinach,  bushel .  1  0 
0 
0 
Leeks,  bunch  . 
0 
2 
0  0 
1 
6 
Lettuce,  dozen . 
0 
9 
1  G 
Tomatoes. per  lb . 0  3 
0 
4 
Mushrooms,  punnet  ..  .. 
0 
9 
1  u 
Turnips,  bunch . 0  3 
U 
6 
AVERAGE  WHOLESALE 
PRICES. — OUT  FLOWERS. — Orchid  Blooms  in  variety. 
s 
d 
B.  d. 
s.  d. 
8. 
d. 
Arum  Lilies,  12  blooms  .. 
3 
0 
to  4  0 
Pansies,  various,  dozen 
Asparagus  Fern,  per  bunch 
2 
0 
4  0 
bunches . 1  0  to 
2 
0 
Bouvardias,  bunch  ..  ,. 
0 
6 
1  0 
Peas,  Sweet,  doz.  bunches . .  2  0 
Pelargoniums,  12  bunches  4  0 
4 
0 
Carnarions,  12  blooms 
2 
0 
4  0 
9 
0 
„  dozen  bunches.. 
4 
0 
8  0 
PrimuIa(double),doz.spys.  0  6 
1 
0 
Cornflower  „  „ 
1 
0 
2  0 
Roses  (indoor),  dozen  ..  10 
2 
0 
Eucharis,  dozen . 
1 
6 
2  6 
„  Moss,  per  dozen  . .  . .  1  0 
2 
0 
Gaillardias,  doz.  bunches . . 
2 
0 
3  0 
„  Tea,  white,  dozen  . .  10 
2 
0 
Gardenias,  dozen  ..  .. 
Geranium,  scarlet,  doz. 
2 
0 
4  0 
„  Yellow,  dozen  (Niels)  3  0 
„  Safrauo  (English), 
6 
0 
0 
bunches . 
4 
0 
6  0 
dozen . 1  0 
2 
Lilac  (French)  per  bunch 
4 
6 
5  0 
„  Yellow,  dozen  blooms  0  9 
1 
0 
Lilium  candidum,  12  blooms 
0 
6 
1  0 
„  Red,  dozen  blooms  ..  10 
2 
0 
„  lancifolium,  12  blooms 
„  longiflorum,  12  blooms 
1 
6 
2  6 
,,  various,  doz.  bunches  3  0 
Smilax,  per  bunch  ..  ..  2  0 
6 
0 
3 
u 
4  0 
4 
0 
Marguerites,  12  bunches  . . 
1 
G 
3  0 
Stephanotis,  doz  eu  sprays  1  6 
2 
0 
Maidenhair  Fern,  dozen 
Sweet  Sultan,  doz.  bchs.  3  0 
4 
0 
bunches  . ,  . 
4 
0 
6  0 
Tuberoses,  12  blooms. .  0  4 
0 
G 
Orchids,  dozen  blooms  .. 
1 
6 
12  0 
