August  1,  1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
117 
Ashby  Gardens.  Mr.  J.  C.  Irons  was  first  for  Peaches  and  Melons* 
Vegetables  were  also  good.  For  a  collection  of  eight  kinds  Dr.  Percival, 
Wellingborough,  was  first,  closely  followed  by  Mr.  Hayes,  Castle  Ashby 
Gardens.  Local  amateurs  did  not  greatly  distinguish  themselves,  but 
the  cottagers’  productions  were  generally  meritorious.  The  show  was 
admirably  managed  by  Messrs.  Woolston  and  Pendered,  the  Honorary 
Secretaries,  and  their  active  coadjutors  on  the  Committee,  and  was 
greatly  appreciated  by  a  crowd  of  visitors,  a  financial  success  being 
assured. 
m 
WOKK.F0IITHE  WEEK.. ' 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Strawberries. — The  Advantages  of  Early  Planting.  —  The  im¬ 
portance  of  planting  early,  so  as  to  obtain  strong  plants,  and  these  well 
established  in  rich,  firm  soil  before  growth  ceases  in  the  autumn,  is  now 
recognised  as  one  of  the  best  and  most  profitable  methods  of  cultivating 
Strawberries.  The  advantages  will  be  apparent  the  first  year,  as  really 
fine  crops  of  excellent  fruit  are  secured  in  good  seasons,  where  those 
planted  late  can  only  produce  light  crops,  which,  if  the  plants  are  at  all 
weak,  they  are  better  without  in  order  that  the  vigour  may  be 
concentrated  in  their  fuller  development  for  the  following  year. 
Preparing  Ground, — Strawberries  delight  in  a  firm,  fertile  loam  of 
a  tilth  deep  enough  not  to  cause  the  plants  to  suffer  in  extremely  dry 
weather.  Poor  and  shallow  soils  are  not  suitable,  as  they  contain  neither 
sufficient  moisture  nor  adequate  support  for  maintaining  the  plants  in  a 
sufficiently  vigorous  condition  to  insure  good  crops.  It  is  possible, 
however,  to  enrich  poor  soil  and  to  deepen  the  shallow,  providing  the 
subsoil  is  not  of  a  worthless  character.  Soil  trenched  and  well  manured 
the  previous  winter,  then  cropped  with  early  Potatoes  or  some  crop  of  a 
temporary  character  which  can  be  removed  at  this  season,  offers  a  good 
site  for  early  Strawberry  planting  without  recourse  to  much  labour. 
The  cultivation  the  soil  has  received  insures  its  fertility  ;  it  is  in 
fairly  good  mechanical  condition  for  a  considerable  depth,  and  only 
needs  levelling  and  firming.  Land  that  has  only  previously  been  dug 
in  a  shallow  manner  should,  before  planting  Strawberries,  be  thoroughly 
trenched  and  manured.  It  is  better  if  this  can  be  completed  some  time 
previously,  if  not  the  winter  before,  so  that  it  can  have  time  to  con¬ 
solidate.  For  heavy  soil  a  dressing  of  wood  ashes  spread  on  the  surface 
and  worked  in  aids  the  emission  of  roots  ;  in  fact,  in  all  soils  a  similar 
application  is  of  much  assistance.  Loose  soil  must  be  made  very  firm 
before  planting.  Strawberries  do  best  on  such  ground,  the  roots  meeting 
with  resistance,  which  causes  them  to  assume  a  more  fibrous  character, 
conducing  to  firm,  compact  growth,  instead  of  a  luxuriant  development 
of  foliage. 
Situation. — A  site  open  and  sunny  is  preferable,  and  for  early  crops 
a  warm,  sheltered  border,  sloping  gently  to  the  south.  Where  late  crops 
are  expected,  it  is  better  to  plant  the  latest  varieties  on  north  borders, 
where  the  fruit  comes  in  useful  in  succession  to  the  midseason  varieties. 
These  borders,  however,  should  not  be  shaded  by  trees,  but  fully  exposed 
to  light  and  air. 
Hints  on  Planting  Strawberries  — Runners  layered  early  in  small 
pots  require  planting  out  permanently  before  they  become  too  much 
root-bound.  They  start  but  slowly  into  active  growth  when  the  roots 
are  so  closely  matted  together,  but  if  planted  in  time  they  readily  take 
to  the  soil.  The  ball  of  roots  ought  to  be  thoroughly  moist,  and  in 
planting  press  the  soil  firmly  about  the  young  plants.  Although  this  is 
desirable,  rough  treading  or  stamping  must  not  be  adopted.  In  very 
dry  parching  weather  plant  in  a  shallow  basin  of  soil,  well  watering  the 
plants  in,  and  covering  with  dry  soil.  Still  leave  a  depression  round 
them  for  holding  future  supplies  of  water  which  may  be  required  to 
establish  the  plants.  If  liquid  manure  or  sewage  can  be  had  it  will  be 
appreciated  by  the  roots  better  than  clear  water.  At  the  same  time  it 
will  enrich  the  soil.  If  possible,  however,  plant  when  showers  are 
imminent  or  shortly  after  they  have  fallen,  which  will  minimise  the 
necessity  of  frequent  waterings.  Should  dry  weather  continue  a  light 
mulching  of  short  manure  is  decidedly  beneficial  in  maintaining  the 
soil  moist  and  cool. 
Distances  to  Plant. — The  minimum  distances  for  planting  Straw¬ 
berries  are  2  feet  between  the  rows,  the  plants  being  15  inches  asunder. 
These  distances  suffice  for  all  the  smaller  growers.  The  larger  fruited 
and  more  vigorous  growers  such  as  Sir  J.  Paxton,  Noble,  James  Veitch, 
President,  and  Royal  Sovereign  should  have  2  J  to  3  feet  distance  between 
the  rows  in  rich  soil,  the  plants  18  inches  to  2  feet  asunder. 
Varieties. — A  few  of  the  best  early  Strawberries  are  Noble,  King 
of  the  Earlies,  Royal  Ssvereign,  and  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury. 
President,  James  Veiteh,  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  and  British  Queen  are 
reliable  midseason  varieties.  For  late  crops,  Frogmore  Late  Pine, 
Waterloo,  and  Laxton’s  Latest  of  All. 
Raspberries. — Cat  out  the  old  bearing  canes  immediately  the  fruit 
has  been  gathered.  Also  reduce  the  number  of  the  current  year’s  canes 
to  four  or  six,  choosing  those  conveniently  placed  for  training  to  wires 
or  stakes.  Under  these  favourable  conditions  they  will  lengthen  and 
ripen  satisfactorily.  Clear  the  ground  of  weeds  and  afford  a  good 
mulching  of  manure  for  nourishing  the  abundance  of  active  roots. 
Peaches. — The  fruit  as  it  approaches  the  ripening  period  should 
have  every  assistance  for  rendering  it  highly  coloured  and  imparting 
flavour.  This  consists  in  exposing  each  fruit  to  the  sunshine  as  well  as 
continuous  light.  In  order  to  do  this  it  may  be  necessary  to  draw  the 
leaves  on  one  side  or  tie  the  shoots  away  from  the  fruit.  A  few  of  the 
more  luxuriant  leaves  may  be  reduced  one-half  where  this  will  prevent 
the  fruit  being  shaded.  Keeping  the  shoots  well  trained  will  also  be  of 
assistance.  Large  numbers  of  earwigs  which  attack  the  ripening  fruit 
can  be  caught  in  dry  hollow  Bean  stalks  or  rolled  strips  of  brown 
paper  placed  between  the  branches  and  the  wall,  examining  them  every 
morning. 
Keeping  Red  Currants. — Red  Currants  may  be  preserved  in  good 
condition  for  some  time  by  being  netted  up  so  that  birds  cannot  attack 
them.  On  bush  trees  employ  mats,  as  it  is  essential  that  the  fruit  be 
kept  dry  as  well  as  safe  from  injury. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Eorcing, — The  Vines  intended  for 
starting  in  November  to  afford  ripe  Grapes  in  late  March  or  early  in 
April  should  be  of  the  early  and  sure  forcing  varieties,  such  as  White 
Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling,  Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court, 
and  now  have  the  wood  ripe,  thoroughly  hardened,  and  the  buds  plump. 
If  there  be  any  doubt  about  these  matters,  keep  the  house  rather  warmer 
by  day,  80°  to  85°,  closing  early  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  90°  or 
95°,  and  open  the  ventilators  at  night.  Afford  water  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  prevent  the  leaves  flagging,  or  liquid  manure  may  be  given  to  help 
them  to  plump  the  buds.  The  foliage  cannot  have  too  much  light. 
Keep  the  laterals  well  in  check,  leaving  no  more  than  absolutely  necessary 
to  appropriate  any  sap  that  may  be  in  excess  of  the  leaf  requirements, 
and  so  prevent  the  principal  buds  starting. 
When  sufficiently  ripened,  as  indicated  by  the  wood  being  brown  and 
hard  and  the  buds  prominent,  they  may  be  removed  to  a  position  out¬ 
doors  in  the  full  sun,  standing  on  boards  or  slates  in  front  of  a  south 
wall  or  fence,  securing  the  canes  to  the  face  of  the  wall,  only  giving 
water  to  prevent  the  foliage  falling  prematurely,  and  having  some  water¬ 
proof  material  to  throw  the  water  from  the  pots  in  case  of  heavy  rain. 
In  this  position  they  will  rest  even  if  the  leaves  are  not  shed.  When  the 
leaves  turn  yellow — give  indications  of  falling — commence  reducing  the 
laterals,  and  when  most  are  off  cut  them  in  closely  and  cut  back  the 
canes  to  the  length  required,  placing  them  in  an  airy  shed  or  cool  dry 
place  until  the  time  arrives  for  forcing.  Keep  the  soil  dry,  yet  not  so 
ary  as  to  cause  the  wood  to  shrivel. 
Earliest  Eorced  House.— This  will  vary  as  to  time  in  different 
establishments,  but  it  is  not  desirable,  as  a  rule,  to  start  permanent 
Vines  before  the  beginning  of  December,  so  as  to  afford  a  supply  of  ripe 
Grapes  from  the  end  of  April  or  beginning  of  May  onwards.  A  dry 
atmosphere  is  desirable  for  the  thorough  ripening  of  the  wood,  but  it 
will  not  be  necessary,  except  in  the  case  of  young  Vines  not  forced  early 
before,  to  employ  artificial  heat.  All  laterals  should  be  kept  stopped 
and  rest  gradually  induced  by  keeping  the  house  cool  and  the  border 
dry.  Inside  borders,  however,  may  require  watering,  hut  if  they  have 
been  mulched  it  may  not  be  necessary,  and  outside  borders  will  not  take 
any  harm  provided  they  are  of  sound  material  and  well  drained,  other¬ 
wise  a  covering  of  straw  or  bracken  may  be  employed  to  throw  off  heavy 
rains.  Premature  ripening  of  the  foliage  is  undesirable,  and  is  generally 
occasioned  by  destruction  of  the  leaves  through  red  spider  or  too  dry  an 
atmosphere  and  deficiency  of  water  at  the  roots.  Where  the  Vines  are 
in  an  unsatisfactory  condition  prepare  for  lifting  at  an  early  date, 
getting  fresh  loam  and  clean  drainage,  so  that  the  work  can  be  done 
quickly  when  started.  There  is  no  danger  of  losing  a  crop  providing 
the  operations  are  properly  and  promptly  performed.  It  is  desirable  to 
lift  the  roots  and  place  them  in  fresh  soil  nearer  the  surface  whilst 
there  is  foliage  on  the  Vines  ;  therefore  work  of  this  kind  ought  not 
to  be  delayed  in  the  case  of  Vines  that  are  to  be  started  early  in 
December,  which  will  need  pruning  by  the  middle  of  September,  or  a 
little  later  in  the  case  of  lifted  Vines. 
In  the  case  of  Vines  that  have  not  before  been  started  early,  and  are 
required  for  affording  ripe  Grapes  at  the  end  of  April  or  early  in  May 
next  season,  it  will  be  necessary  to  prepare  them  for  the  process, 
cleaning  them  thoroughly  by  syringing  or  an  insecticide  as  soon  as  the 
crop  is  off,  and  if  there  is  any  doubt  about  ripening  the  wood  or  plump¬ 
ing  the  buds  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  house  rather  close  by  day, 
but  with  sufficient  ventilation  to  cause  evaporation  and  allow  the 
moisture  to  escape.  Give  no  more  water  at  the  roots  than  will  prevent 
the  foliage  becoming  limp.  If  the  weather  prove  moist  and  cold  employ 
fire  heatln  the  daytime  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°,  with 
moderate  ventilation,  and  turn  the  heat  off  at  night  to  allow  the  pipes 
to  cool.  This  will  soon  cause  the  buds  to  plump,  the  wood  to  ripen,  and 
induce  rest,  which  for  Vines  to  be  started  at  the  time  named  should  be 
complete  by  the  middle  to  the  end  of  September.  When  the  Vines  have 
the  wood  ripe  ventilate  fully  day  and  night. 
Second  Early  Vines.— Tho&Q  started  at  the  new  year  have  the  crops 
cleared,  and  should  be  cleansed  by  means  of  the  syringe  or  engine,  and, 
if  needful,  by  applying  an  insecticide.  If  there  be  any  mealy  bug 
or  scale  use  petroleum,  a  wineglassful  to  I  gallons  of  water,  in  which 
6  ozs.  of  softsoap  and  1  oz.  of  washing  soda  has  been  dissolved,  keeping 
the  mixture  thoroughly  agitated  whilst  it  is  being  applied  by  alter¬ 
nately  squirting  syringefuls  of  the  mixture  into  the  vessel  and  over  the 
Vines,  wetting  these  and  every  part  of  the  house  thoroughly .  It  is  best 
done  on  a  calm  evening,  and  should  be  repeated  at  intervals  of  a  few 
