142 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  8, 1895, 
Plcotee  (J.  T."). — The  flower  sent  is  a  rose-edged  Picotee  of  good 
substance,  which  should,  if  distinct,  make  a  good  variety.  We  cannot 
tell  its  particular  name  as  there  are  several  closely  resembling  it. 
Strawberry  Plants  to  Afford  Runners  for  Forcing'  (  Walthairi). 
— As  you  have  no  stock  plants  the  best  plan  is  to  procure  some 
strong  runners  now  of  the  desired  varieties,  and  plant  them  in  the  open 
ground  in  well  prepared  land,  placing  the  plants  in  rows  2  feet  3  inches 
asunder,  and  15  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  These  plants  will  give  strong 
runners  early  in  1896,  which  being  layered  into  the  fruiting  pots  will  be 
the  best  possible  for  producing  ripe  fruit  in  April,  1897.  The  necessary 
instructions  for  preparing  Strawberry  plants  for  forcing  were  recently 
given  in  our  “  Work  for  the  Week”  column. 
Chemical  Manure  for  Tea  Roses  (JEve). — You  could  not  have 
any  better  than  those  advertised,  all  being  excellent  when  applied 
according  to  the  instructions,  and  as  a  rule  cheaper  and  more  genuine 
than  often  is  the  case  by  purchasing  small  quantities  and  mixing  at 
home.  You  may  use  the  following  : — Superphosphate,  5  parts  or  lbs. ; 
sulphate  of  potash,  3  parts  ;  nitrate  of  soda,  2  parts  ;  mix  thoroughly 
and  apply  at  the  rate  of  4  ozs.  per  square  yard  early  in  the  spring,  and 
repeat  occasionally  during  the  summer ;  or  use  2  ozs.  per  square  yard 
at  six  weeks  intervals  during  the  summer,  either  when  the  ground  is 
moist  or  washing  in  after  application.  Cease  manuring  at  the  beginning 
of  September,  or  omit  the  nitrate  of  soda  after  that  time. 
Vine  leaves  Scorched  and  Crapes  Scalded  {Eherneizia). — 
There  is  no  mildew  on  the  leaves  or  Grapes,  but  one  leaf  has  a  large 
scorch-blotch,  and  there  is  a  little  rust  on  the  berries,  and  some  are 
slightly  scalded,  all  of  which  are  not  diseases,  but  due  to  cultural 
defects.  The  scorching  is  a  consequence  of  not  admitting  early  in 
the  morning,  or  before  the  sun  has  acted  some  time  powerfully  on  the 
house.  Scalding  is  a  result  of  similar  conditions,  and  can  be  avoided 
by  a  rather  free  circulation  of  air  in  the  daytime,  and  a  little  constantly, 
so  as  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  and  allow 
the  Grapes  to  warm  correspondingly  with  the  surrounding  air.  This 
can  be  readily  effected  by  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes  for 
about  three  weeks  during  the  completion  of  stoning  and  up  to  the 
Grapes  changing  colour.  The  rust  is  caused  by  allowing  the  temperature 
to  rise  considerably,  and  then  admitting  air  so  as  to  cause  a  draught, 
or  by  rubbing  with  the  hand  or  hair. 
Tomato  Fruit  Affected  wltb  Black  Rot  (JE.  Mason). — 1,  The 
fruit  is  diseased  in  the  usual  manner  by  a  fungus,  which  we  are  now 
able  to  state  definitely  is  Peronospora  lycopersici.  However,  there  is 
only  the  mycelium  in  your  fruit ;  the  destruction  of  the  tissues  by  this 
causes  the  blackness,  and  is  called  blotch,  black  stripe,  and  black  rot. 
The  latter  is  a  better  popular  term  than  the  other,  for  it  means  the 
destruction  of  the  fruit.  The  fungus  has  been  vaguely  guessed  at  as 
that  of  the  Potato  disease  fungus  (Phytophthora  infestans),  but  it  is  not 
that  pest,  though  related  to  it,  yet  the  last  also  sometimes  infests 
Tomato  plants,  but  it  does  not  produce  this  particular  disease.  To 
avoid  the  Peronospora  lycopersici  you  must  (1),  sow  perfectly  clean  seed, 
for  the  parasite  can  be  and  is  transmitted  in  the  seed  to  every  part  of 
the  world  where  Tomatoes  are  grown  ;  (2),  disinfect  the  houses  and  soil 
where  plants  affected  with  it  have  been  grown  ;  and  (3),  dust  the  plants 
at  intervals  of  about  a  fortnight  after  they  are  a  foot  high,  or  before 
they  show  flower,  with  a  fungicide  powder,  or  spray  with  Bordeaux 
mixture  at  similar  intervals,  a  quarter  strength  as  used  for  Potato 
plants  sufficing  ;  and  continue  one  or  the  other  at  fortnightly  intervals 
until  the  last  fruits  on  the  plants  are  set  and  swelling.  This,  with 
careful  cultural  management,  has  proved  thoroughly  successful .  2,  To 
aid  the  fruit  in  swelling  use  the  advertised  fertilisers,  all  being  good, 
only  follow  the  instructions  carefully.  We  cannot  recommend  any,  but 
you  will  not  be  doing  wrong  to  use  a  mixture  cf  bone  superphosphate, 
5  parts  ;  sulphate  of  potash,  2  parts ;  and  nitrate  of  soda,  1  part ; 
mixing  and  using  4  to  6  ozs.  per  square  yard,  afterwards  giving  nitrate 
of  soda,  1  or  2  ozs.  per  square  yard,  as  vigour  is  wanted,  at  intervals  of 
three  weeks. 
XIi  All  Fumlgator  (ZT.  Ward). — Mr.  Bardney  writes  : — ”  The 
precautions  necessary  are  to  use  the  fumigator  according  to  directions, 
and  then  I  have  found  amongst  plants  the  most  tender  foliage  is  not 
injured.  Where  mealy  bug  exists  in  the  house  we  use  a  stronger  dose 
than  advised,  for  instance  in  a  house  containing  8500  cubic  feet  of  air 
we  have  used  sufficient  nicotine  for  12,500  cubic  feet,  and  have  found 
this  to  kill  all  active  mealy  bug.  The  house  in  which  this  was  tried 
contained  greenhouse  Ehododendrons,  Abutilons,  Heliotrope,  Begonia 
Carolina  and  two  small-flowering  winter  kinds,  Dracsenas,  Eulalias, 
Gloxinias,  Gannas,  and  several  other  plants.  A  few  Adiantum  cuneatum 
were  left  in,  the  majority  removed.  Those  left  in  had  not  the  most 
tender  frond  injured,  and  none  of  the  other  plants  ;  but  of  the  mealy  bug, 
all  active  insects,  lay  dead  in  the  morning.  So  far  I  have  not  tried  it 
on  the  tender  foliage  of  Vines — when  the  foliage  is  developed  there  need 
be  no  danger  in  using  it.  We  used  the  nicotine  nearly  double  the 
strength  on  Vines  that  were  dormant,  and  with  a  sharp  look  out  have 
been  troubled  very  little  this  season.  To  clear  houses  of  mealy  bug, 
whether  vineries  or  plant  houses,  frequent  operations  are  necessary  ; 
but  so  far  I  do  not  advise  its  use  on  the  foliage  of  Vines  while  it  is 
tender,  although  I  do  not  believe  any  harm  will  result.  The  only 
method  of  testing  this  is  to  raise  Vines  of  various  kinds,  which  I  intend 
doing  on  purpose  another  year,  and  see  what  they  will  really  stand. 
Peaches  appear  to  bear  it  very  well,  and  the  fruit  is  not  tasted  in  the 
least ;  but  the  strength  advised,  while  it  kills  all  active  thrip,  does  not 
entirely  clear  out  red  spider.  We  are  experimenting  as  far  as  we  can, 
and  hope  before  the  end  of  the  year  to  give  readers  of  the  Journal  the 
results  of  our  experiments.” 
Dwarf  Kidney  Beans  for  Profit  (^Cross). — We  have  grown  both 
Ne  Plus  Ultra  and  Canadian  Wonder  for  marketing  and  found  both 
excellent,  the  former  being  somewhat  the  earlier,  and  a  smaller  pod  takes 
well  with  some  buyers ;  but  of  the  two  we  found  the  second  give  the 
best  returns  generally.  Ours  were  grown  in  rows  18  inches  apart  for 
Ne  Plus  Ultra,  and  the  beans  about  4  inches  asunder.  Canadian 
Wonder  2  feet  apart  from  row  to  row,  and  6  inches  asunder  in  the  rows. 
By  sowing  in  3-inch  pots  and  planting  out  you  perhaps  induce  a  dwarfer 
habit,  as  the  plants  can  be  kept  nearer  the  glass  in  the  early  stages,  and 
being  five  in  such  pot  they  can  be  set  in  clumps  18  inches  asunder  every 
way  for  Ne  Plus  Ultra  and  2  feet  for  Canadian  Wonder.  When  sown  in 
the  ground  the  plants  are  liable  to  become  drawn,  but  that  is  occasioned 
by  keeping  too  warm  and  close. 
Apple  Scab  (^E.  M.). — There  is  no  remedy  for  this  or  indeed  any 
fungoid  disease,  as  nothing  will  restore  destroyed  tissue,  therefore  the 
most  that  can  be  done  after  attack  has  commenced  is  to  arrest  the  spread 
of  the  malady,  and  save  as  much  of  the  current  crop  as  possible.  This, 
however,  can  hardly  be  done,  as  once  affected  the  fruit  cracks  in 
swelling,  even  after  the  fungus  has  been  destroyed ;  besides,  the  usual 
specific,  Bordeaux  mixture,  is  not  safe  to  use  late  to  early  ripening- 
Apples.  You  may  now  employ  permanganate  of  potash,  a  wineglassful 
to  a  gallon  of  water,  for  spraying,  or  that  quantity  diluted  with  water 
to  3  gallons  for  syringing.  The  best  and  only  desirable  practice  is 
preventive  measures,  spraying  in  spring,  just  before  the  leaf  buds  open, 
with  quarter  strength  Bordeaux  mixture,  repeating  the  application 
just  before  the  blossoms  open,  spraying  for  the  third  time  .after  the 
blossoms  have  fallen,  and  in  fourteen  to  twenty-one  days — the  shorter 
if  wet,  longer  if  fine — spray  again.  This  suffices  for  early  Apples,  and 
mostly  for  all  but  very  late. 
Dark  Mark  In  Tomato  Seed  QSaltaire). — The  dark  mark  on 
one  of  the  seeds  yielded  the  mycelium  of  a  fungus,  quite  fresh  but 
dormant.  It  appeared  to  be  that  of  the  black  rot  or  black  stripe 
parasite,  the  fungus  called  Peronospora  lycopersici.  Such  seed  may  or 
may  not  give  rise  to  the  disease  in  the  plant  developed  from  it,  in  which 
case  the  plant  must  succumb,  and  is  common  enough  in  the  early  stages 
of  growth,  but  not  until  the  fungus  has  produced  spores,  which  may 
spread  over  other  plauts  and  set  up  the  disease  in  healthy  plants.  As 
the  fungal  plasma  is  embedded  in  the  integument  of  the  seed  you  may 
possibly  destroy  it  by  disinfecting  the  seed  before  sowing  by  using  a 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate,  two  grains  (apothecaries  weight)  to  one 
gill  (quarter  of  a  pint)  of  water,  bearing  in  mind  that  it  is  a  terrible 
poison,  and  when  dissolved,  it  being  best  let  stand  overnight  and 
stirring  two  or  three  times,  allowing  the  seed  to  remain  in  the  solu¬ 
tion  an  hour  and  a  half,  then  remove  and  sow  at  once.  This  treatment 
will  destroy  the  fungoid  threads  it  reaches,  and  possibly  the  diseased 
seeds,  in  either  case  reducing  danger  of  disseminating  the  disease  by 
the  seed. 
Tomato  Deaves  Diseased  (^Acacia  Rawdon). — The  leaves  are 
badly  infested  with  a  fungus,  producing  yellow  spots  or  blotches,  which 
spreads  and  sometimes  destroys  the  whole  leaf  or  leaves.  It  is  the 
Cladosporium  fulvum  of  Dr.  Cooke  and  C.  lycopersici  of  Prof.  Plowright. 
As  many  of  the  outgrowths  are  mere  stumps  the  spores  will  have  been 
disseminated  through  the  house,  and  no  doubt  fresh  colonies  have  been 
established.  We  advise  cutting  off  the  worst  infested  leaves  and  burn¬ 
ing  them.  This,  of  course,  will  4^end  to  distribute  the  spores  through 
the  house  to  a  certain  extent  ;  but  it  is  better  to  do  that  than  leave  bad 
leaves  to  foster  this  and  other  fungi.  Then  spray  the  whole  house  with 
Bordeaux  mixture,  for  which  formulas  have  repeatedly  been  given  in 
this  Journal,  this  being  the  most  certain  remedy,  but  it  will  have  a 
disparaging  effect  on  the  fruit  through  the  coating  of  lime  and  sulphate 
of  copper.  It  must  not  be  used  with  a  syringe,  but  as  that  is  what  you 
wish  to  do  you  may  procure  a  bottle  of  Condy’s  fluid,  and  use  a  wine- 
glassful  to  a  gallon  of  water,  wetting  every  part  of  the  house  as  well  as 
the  plants  with  the  solution.  It  may  be  necessary  to  repeat  the 
syringing  in  about  ten  days,  as  possibly  some  parts  of  the  fungus  may 
not  have  been  reached  at  the  first  application.  If  you  wish  for  a 
fungicide  in  powder  form  there  is  ”  Fostite,”  which  has  been  advertised 
in  our  columns,  and  other  preparations. 
Plants  for  Farmer’s  Carden  to  Afford  Cut  Flowers  In 
Winter  and  Spring-  (J/.  &.). — Christmas  Boses  are  the  first  to  flower, 
commencing  in  November  and  December ;  the  common  (Helleborus 
niger)  and  giant  flowered  (H.  maximus)  having  white  flowers  are  most 
suitable.  Anemone  coronaria  (the  Crown)  and  A.  stellata  (the  Peacock) 
afford  a  quantity  of  flowers  early  in  spring  of  gorgeous  colour,  especially 
the  latter.  Dielytra  eximia  produces  Fern-like  foliage  and  racemes  of 
drooping  reddish  flowers.  Doronicum  caucasicum  has  bright  golden 
yellow  flowers.  Iberis  sempervirens  plena  produces  abundance  of  white 
flowers.  The  Primroses  are  very  pretty  ;  the  double  white,  double 
sulphur,  and  double  lilac  are  esteemed  bunched,  also  Primula  Harbinger. 
Violets  are  indispensable ;  Czar  and  Russian  are  good  singles,  and  Marie 
Louise  for  a  double  blue.  Count  Brazzi  (double  white)  does  fairly 
well  in  a  sheltered  situation.  You  will  have  Snowdrops  already  in 
quantity,  and  no  doubt  common  Daffodils  galore.  To  these  you  may 
add  the  Tenby  Daffodil  (Narcissus  obvallaris),  and  the  following  varie¬ 
ties  of  Star  Narcissus — Burbidgei  and  ornatus  of  the  N.  poeticus 
section,  and  of  the  N.  incomparabilis  Leedsi  (white  variety)  or  N.  Leedsi, 
and  of  Ajax  type  N.  Horsfieldi.  There  are  many  others,  but  those 
named  are  moderate  in  price.  You  should  ask  for  quotations  of  prices, 
and  select  according  to  the  quantities  you  have  means  for  growing, 
remembering  that  the  stock  will  increase  yearly.  Wallflowers  must 
be  grown  in  quantity,  these  of  Murse  being  raised  from  seed  each 
year,  of  which  you  will  have  a  goocf  stock  from  a  May  sowing. 
