AuErust  '.5,  1895. 
165 
JOURXAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AXD  COTTAGE  GARDEXER. 
is  no  prospect  of  being  able  to  plant  all  that  are  required,  owing  to  w^ant 
of  room,  establiih  a  plot  of  runners  on  a  fertile  piece  of  grounu,  placing 
them  6  inches  apart  in  rows  the  same  distance  asunder.  A  stock  of 
plants  is  thus  insured  for  spring  planting  or  to  fill  up  vacancies. 
ITvUIT  FOECING. 
Peaches  and  Kectarlnes. — Earliest  Forced  Houses. — Trees 
started  in  Decern oer  and  early  January  must  not  lack  water  at  the 
roots.  When  this  occurs  during  the  formation  and  perfecting  of  the 
buds  they  become  “  deaf,”  and  fall  instead  of  expanding  into  blossom 
when  started.  Affording  a  slight  shade  to  trees  under  fixed  roofs  where 
the  panes  of  glass  are  large  has  the  advantage  of  preserving  the  foliage 
in  good  condition,  thus  preventing  premature  maturity  of  the  foliage 
and  the  over-develonment  of  the  buds,  which  is  one  of  the  causes  of 
their  dropping.  Supply  a  top-dressing  ot  phospbatic  and  potassic 
manure  to  weakly  trees,  and  water  as  may  be  necessary  to  keep  the 
soil  in  a  moist  condition.  Needless  waterings  only  saturate  the  soil, 
sour  it,  and  destroy  the  root,-. 
Where  the  lights  have  been  removed  artificial  watering  may  not  be 
required,  but  attention  must  be  given  to  this  matter  by  timely  examina¬ 
tion.  Rain  is  accompanitd  tya  lower  tempeiature,  and  no  harm  results 
orovided  the  borders  are  properly  drained,  indeed  the  ammonia  and 
nitric  acid  brought  down  by  rain  have  a  most  beneficial  effect  on  the 
trees.  Allow  some  laterals  that  are  green  to  remain,  as  such  unripe 
growths  act  as  outlets  for  any  excess  of  sap,  a  safeguard  against  starting 
the  buds  and  promoting  the  activity  of  the  roots.  Early  forced  trees  do 
not,  as  a  rule,  make  strong  growths,  and  there  is  often  a  preponderance 
of  blossom  over  wood  buds,  hence  in  pruning  it  is  not  desirable  to  cut 
back  next  year’s  btaiing  wood  unless  the  shoots  are  of  great  length. 
Very  little  pruning  will  be  needed  providing  disbudding  has  been  pro¬ 
perly  attended  to,  and  no  more  wood  been  trained  in  than  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  replace  that  bearing  in  the  current  year,  and  to  renew 
worn-out  growths. 
Trees  enfeebled  by  long  subjectioit  to  early  forcing  will  be  benefited 
by  cutting  out  some  of  the  old  w'ood,  especially  the  long  branches,  but 
this  must  be  done  judiciously,  always  having  regard  to  a  crop.  Some 
trees  are  the  exact  opposite,  making  too  vigorous,  h.ng-jointed  growths, 
and  those  should  be  restrained.  This  is  not  effected  by  stopping, 
though  it  is  useful  in  causing  a  diversion  of  the  sap  from  the  strong  to  the 
weaker  parts  of  the  trees,  thereby  assisting  in  an  equal  distribution  of 
the  nutriment,  consequently  tending  to  maturity  of  the  wood  and  buds. 
Any  trees  which  grow  too  vigorously  must  be  lifted  and  their  roots  laid 
in  firm  material  near  the  surface.  Those  showing  symptoms  of  weakness 
may  have  the  old  soil  carefully  removed  from  amongst  the  roots,  supply¬ 
ing  turfy  loam,  with  an  8-inch  potful  of  two  parts  wood  ashes  and  one 
part  bonemeal,  mixed,  to  each  barrowload  of  loam.  Give  a  good  watering 
both  to  the  lifted  and  soil-renovated  trees.  These  operations  require  to 
be  performed  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  matured,  but  before  they  fall 
from  the  trees. 
Second  Early  Houses. — The  trees  having  had  the  bearing  wood  cut 
out  and  kept  free  from  insec: s  will  now  have  the  wood  sufficiently 
ripened  to  admit  of  me  removal  of  the  roof  lights  where  these  are 
moveable.  This  exposure  has  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  trees,  the  air 
hardening  the  growths,  and  the  dews  and  rains  cleansing  the  foliage, 
while  growth  is  arrested  on  the  one  hand,  and  steady  maturity  of  the 
other  secured.  In  the  case  of  fixed  roofs  and  the  panes  of  glass  large 
and  clear  it  is  an  excelleiit  plan  to  coat  the  glass  with  a  thin  wash  of 
whitening  and  skim  milk,  applying  with  a  brush.  Admit  air  to  the 
fullest  extent,  and  see  th  t  the  trees  are  kept  free  from  insects  and  not 
neglected  for  water  at  the  roots. 
Irees  Cleared  of  their  Crops. — Cut  away  the  shoots  that  have  borne 
fruit  unless  required  for  extension,  and  where  the  growths  are  too 
crowded  they  should  be  thinned.  This  will  allow  air  and  light  to  harden 
the  wood  by  increasing  elaboration,  and  more  food  will  be  stored  in  the 
buds  and  adjacent  stems  for  the  benefit  of  the  blossoms  and  fruit  in  the 
coming  season.  It  will  also  permit  of  the  foliage  being  kept  clean  and 
healthy  through  freer  access  of  water  by  the  syringe  or  engine,  also,  if 
necessary,  the  more  efficient  application  of  an  insecticide  for  cleansing 
the  trees  of  red  spider,  brown  aphis,  and  scale.  These  matters  are  very 
important,  as  it  is  essential  that  the  foliage  be  kept  clean  and  healthy  to 
the  last.  Water  must  be  given  aa  is  necessary  at  t’ne  roots,  but  avoid 
needless  waterings,  especially  when  the  trees  are  vigorous  and  lifting  is 
intended.  Admit  air  to  the  fullest  extent,  especially  at  night. 
Houses  with  Fruit  Eipening. — A  free  circulation  of  air  will  enhance 
the  quality  of  the  fruit,  and  water  need  only  be  given  to  prevent  the 
foliage  becoming  limp.  Secure  air  moisture  by  an  occasional  damping 
of  the  house  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage,  also  fruit,  which  in  an  arid 
atmosphere  is  liable  to  become  mealy,  whilst  it  ripens  prematurely  if 
the  trees  suffer  by  want  of  water.  Ants  are  often  troublesome.  They 
take  to  treacle  greedily.  Bits  of  sponge  held  tightly  in  the  fingers,  then 
dipped  in  the  syrup  and  there  relaxed,  will  absorb  some,  and  a  gentle 
squeeze  on  withdrawing  will  leave  enough  in  the  sponge  to  entice  the 
ants.  These  laid  in  saucers  in  their  haunts  will  rid  any  place  of  the 
active  creatures  by  immersing  the  sponges  occasionally  with  the  ants  in 
them  in  boiling  water.  Cleanse  the  sponges  each  time,  and  repeat  the 
dipping.  Partially  picked  bones,  such  as  come  from  table,  are  admirable 
baits  for  ants,  the  bones  quite  dry  and  fresh  being  laid  in  their  haunts, 
and  when  they  are  covere<l  with  the  pests  immerse  them  in  boiling 
water.  The  bones  freed  from  the  surplus  moisture  are  available  for 
a  considerable  time,  as  the  immersion  in  boiling  water  destroys  the 
fungoid  and  animal  germs  inducing  putrefaction. 
Late  Houses. —  Frees  which  have  the  wood  thin  have  a  better  chance 
to  ripen,  and  the  foliage  to  elaborate  the  sap,  than  those  with  the 
summer  growths  laid  in  so  closely  as  to  impede  air  and  light.  On  the 
assimilation  of  the  food  depends  its  storing  in  the  buds  and  wood  for 
the  support  of  the  blossom  and  embryo  fruit  in  the  coming  season. 
Gross  growths  tend  to  impoverish  the  weaker,  appropriate  aa  undue 
amount  of  sap,  and  tend  to  gumming  and  unprofitableness.  They  must 
be  stopped  or  lemoved.  An  even  spread  of  moderately  strong,  short- 
jointed  wood  is  desirable.  Ventilate  the  house  early  in  the  morning, 
allowing  a  good  heat  by  day,  and  closing  so  as  to  secure  8.o°  or  more,  for 
sun  heat  after  evaporation  baa  been  going  on  for  some  time  will  not  do 
any  harm,  if  care  be  taken  to  admit  a  little  air  before  nightfall,  and  the 
temperature  to  gradually  cool  down,  thereby  securing  rest.  The  night 
and  early  ventilation  tends  to  the  solidification  of  the  growth  and  its 
ripening.  Syringe  to  keep  down  red  spider. 
Cucumbers. — Encourage  the  autumn  fruiters  to  make  a  strong  but 
healthy  growth,  affording  abundance  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  not  too 
much,  with  a  moist  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by  syringing  at 
closing  time,  and  damping  available  surfaces  occasionally.  Add  fresh 
soil  from  time  to  time  as  the  roots  protrude  from  the  sides  of  the  ridges 
or  hillocks.  Sufficient  fire  heat  must  be  employed  to  maintain  the  tem¬ 
perature  at  70°  to  75“  by  day,  and  prevent  it  falling  below  65°  by  night. 
Old  plants  should  have  the  exhausted  growths  cut  away  and  others 
thinned  where  likely  to  be  crowded,  so  as  to  admit  light  and  air,  securing 
a  sturdy,  solidified  growth  and  a  succession  of  bearing  w'ood.  The 
syringe  should  be  regularly  employed  about  3  P.M  ,  and  if  mildew 
appears  dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur  in  the  evening,  maintaining  a 
somewhat  drier  atmosphere  by  judicious  ventilation.  Black  aphides 
are  sometimes  trouble.  They  are  best  exterminated  by  vapourisation 
with  nicotine,  or  by  fumigation,  which  must  be  done  carefully  with  good 
tobacco  paper.  The  operation  is  most  efficacious  when  performed  in  the 
evening,  and  repeated  early  the  following  morning.  The  foliage  should 
be  dry,  the  smoke  delivered  cool,  and  free  ventilation  afforded 
afterward?, 
IMCelons. — The  latest  plants  should  be  placed  out  at  once.  Train 
with  a  leading  shoot  until  it  reaches  two-thirds  across  the  trellis,  then 
pinch  out  its  point,  rubbing  off  the  laterals  up  to  the  trellis,  and  then 
every  alternate  one  on  opposite  sides  of  the  primary  growth.  Maintain  a 
temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  80°  to  85°  from  sun 
heat,  closing  early  so  as  to  increase  to  90°  or  95°,  Do  not  stop  the 
laterals  unless  they  fail  to  show  fruit  at  the  second  or  third  joint. 
Weakly  plants  should  have  the  first  show  of  fruit  removed,  stopping 
the  laterals  at  the  second  or  third  joint.  Early  ventilation  with 
plenty  of  light  will  secure  sturdy,  thoroughly  solidified  growth. 
When  Melons  are  ripening  no  water  should  be  given  at  the  roots, 
and  air  should  be  freely  admitted,  A  little  ventilation  constantly  will 
prevent  the  deposition  ot  moisture  on  the  fruit  and  insure  its  ripening 
without  cracking,  but  in  dull  weather  it  will  be  necessary  to  have 
gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  to  secure  the  requisite  temperature.  Plants 
showing  fruit  should  also  have  a  rather  warm  and  dry  atmosphere, 
ventilating  freely  so  as  to  have  the  pollen  and  pistil  in  the  right  con¬ 
dition  for  fertilisation.  This  should  be  attended  to  daily  as  the  flowers 
become  fully  expanded.  Stop  the  shoots  at  the  time  of  fertilisation  one 
joint  beyond  the  fruit.  Afford  every  encouragement  to  plants  swelling 
their  fruit,  watering  and  affording  liquid  manure  at  the  roots  as  neces¬ 
sary.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  hand,  and  let  the  principal  leaves  have 
full  exposure  to  light  and  air.  Maintain  moisture  by  damping  available 
surfaces  when  they  dry,  syringing  and  closing  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Late  plants  in  pits  and  frames  are  swelling  the  fruit  freely.  Earth- 
up  the  roots  where  necessary,  but  late  plants  on  manure  beds  do  not 
require  a  large  amount  of  soil.  Generally  they  grow  too  much,  which 
can  only  be  prevented  by  a  fiim  condition  of  the  soil  and  timely  atten¬ 
tion  in  ventilation.  Keeping  the  growths  thin  is  also  necessary  to 
secure  sturdy  stems  and  firm-textured  foliage,  the  laterals  not  being 
allowed  to  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves.  If  the  weather  be  cold 
or  dull  afford  good  linings  and  admit  a  little  air,  as  nothing  is  so  fatal 
to  quality  in  Melons  as  a  close  atmosphere.  Sprinkling  should  only  be 
practised  on  fine  afternoons.  If  black  aphis  attack  the  plants,  fumigate 
moderately  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings.  Examine  the  plants 
frequently  for  canker,  promptly  applying  quicklime  to  the  affected  parts. 
Gradually  withhold  water  at  the  roots  and  moisture  from  the:atmosphere 
when  plants  are  ripening  their  fruits,  and  if  a  little  extra  heat  be 
afforded  by  linings  of  sweet  material,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  free  circulation 
of  air,  the  quality  of  the  fruit  will  be  enhanced,  and  this  will  often 
prevent  cracking. 
APIARIAN  NOTES. 
PLEASURABLE  BEE-KEEPING. 
This  is  the  title  of  a  book  by  Mr.  C.  A.  White,  first-class  certi¬ 
ficated  expert  of  the  British  Bee-keepers’  Association  (Edward 
Arnold,  37,  Bedford  Street,  Strand,  W.C.).  The  book  comprises 
180  pages,  well  written  in  simple  language  such  as  can  be  under¬ 
stood  by  the  most  inexperienced  in  bee  management.  It  is  not  the 
