August  22,  1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
183 
1  think  that  for  early  forcing  those  grown  in  pots  will  be  found  the  best, 
inasmuch  as  it  is  necessary  the  roots  should  not  be  disturbed,  and  that 
the  crowns  should  go  to  rest  betimes.  For  succession  crops  they  may  be 
cultivated  by  the  first  mode  ;  and  for  the  latest  the  third  mode  may  be 
best  adopted.  They  will  do  well  by  any  of  the  above  methods  if  the 
roots  be  strong  ;  if  they  are  badly  grown  the  forcer  will  be  defeated  in 
his  aim.  I  may  now  detail  the  planting  process,  together  with  the 
preparation  of  the  soil. 
Let  a  plot  of  ground  be  selected  in  the  beginning  of  March,  a  plot 
possessing  the  conditions  before  named.  It  must  be  deeply  dug,  and 
the  parts  well  broken,  and  during  the  process  means  must  be  taken 
to  introduce  as  much  as  4  inches  in  depth  of  very  old  manure  ;  the 
kind  I  prefer  is  old  hotbed  linings,  composed  of  about  equal  parts 
manure  and  tree  leaves,  but  which  have  crumbled  to  pieces  with  age 
and  turning.  To  those  who  cannot  obtain  such  a  valuable  article  I 
say  lay  hold  of  any  old  black  residue,  whether  of  the  wood  pile,  the 
rubbish  heap,  old  thatch,  or  old  rotten  weeds  ;  anything  which  has  once 
been  living  vegetables,  and  has  become  a  black  residuum,  through  age 
and  exposure  to  the  air,  is  eligible.  This,  however,  I  address  to  the 
needy  ;  for,  after  all,  there  are  few  things  so  good  as  the  hotbed  linings. 
The  ground  being  thus  prepared  stations  may  be  marked  out  for  the 
Lily  patches  if  to  be  forced  in  pots  according  to  our  first  mode.  We 
force  them  in  pots  of  about  9  to  11  inches  diameter,  and  it  is  necessary 
BO  to  plant  the  patches  that  they  may  readily  fit  the  proper  sized  pot 
when  taken  up. 
The  ground  is'  marked  out  in  lines  of  2  feet  distance  ;  these  lines  to 
receive  the  patches  of  Lilies  at  about  14  inches  apart,  therefore  pegs 
put  down  at  that  distance  form  points  around  which  a  thick  cluster  of 
crowns  has  to  be  planted.  This  done,  a  pot  of  about  7  inches  in 
diameter  is  used  to  stamp  circles  around  each  peg,  and  on  this  circle, 
and  within  it,  they  are  dibbled  as  thick  as  they  can  be  placed.  Each 
patch  will  thus  be  made  to  contain  from  twelve  to  fifteen  eyes  or  buds, 
which  are  as  many  as  are  necessary  to  form  a  good  potful  of  blooms ; 
and  when  planted  a  top-dressing  of  decayed  manure  in  a  mellow  state  is 
spread  nearly  3  inches  thick  all  over  the  surface  Of  the  Lilies.  Through 
the  ensuing  summer  they  are  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  after  a  second 
summer’s  growth  they  are  first-rate  buds,  and  will  give  every  satisfaction 
to  the  forcer. 
I  may  now  advert  to  the  second  mode — growing  them  in  pot*.  I  will 
not  say  what  has  been  done,  or  what  may  be  the  general  practice,  but 
rather  point  to  what  I  conceive  would  be  a  superior  practice.  They 
need  a  pot  wide  and  shallow,  rather  than  narrow  and  deep;  and  I  think 
we  may  say  pots  about  10  inches  in  diameter,  and  about  7  to  8  in 
depth,  would  be  highly  eligible.  But  as  I  have  to  recommend  a 
plunging  mode  of  culture  in  order  that  the  roots  may  avail  themselves 
of  a  richly  prepared  soil  outside  their  pots,  and  the  latter  should  have 
plenty  of  holes  all  over  their  bottoms,  and  even  round  the  side,  about 
2  inches  above  the  base. 
The  crowns  or  buds  should  be  planted  as  thickly  as  they  can  be 
in  the  beginning  of  March,  and  the  compost  must  be  of  the  most 
generous  description.  About  half  of  an  unctuous  loam,  and  the  other 
half  old  manure  and  leaves,  almost  become  a  mould,  with  a  little  silver 
sand,  will  grow  them  well  in  pots,  putting  some  coarser  manurial 
matters  over  the  drainage  ;  and  if  crocks  are  used  they  should  be  very 
coarse,  in  order  that  the  fibres  may  get  through  with  facility^  These 
things  done,  I  have  to  recommend  a  prepared  bed  to  plunge  them  in. 
Nothing  would  be  better  than  a  bed  of  half-decayed  leaves,  or  anything 
of  similar  texture,  even  manurial  matters.  This  should  be  above 
the  ground  level,  in  order  to  avoid  swamping.  As  before  observed,  a 
situation  where  they  would  get  only  half  a  day’s  sun  would  do  well, 
only  there  must  be  no  trees  above.  They  would  require  regular  water¬ 
ings  through  the  season,  and  when  in  active  growth  liquid  manure. 
Now,  it  will  require  a  second  season’s  growth  to  produce  strong 
blooms,  although  with  every  appliance  they  may  be  bloomed  the  first 
season,  providing  the  roots  were  very  strong.  A  second  season’s  culture, 
however,  will  amply  repay  the  exercise  of  patience.  In  November  of 
the  first  year  they  bad  better  all  be  moved,  and  those  roots  which  are 
through  the  pots  trimmed  away,  for  if  suffered  to  proceed  unprotected 
I  fear  the  check  would  be  too  great  in  the  second  autumn.  Being 
turned  round,  therefore,  or  replunged  they  will  be  ready  for  another 
summer’s  culture,  and  about  the  second  week  in  October,  or  as  soon  as 
the  foliage  begins  to  assume  an  autumnal  tint,  those  which  are  required 
for  very  early  forcing  may  be  lifted,  the  side  fibres  outside  the  pots 
cut  off,  and  the  pots  placed  in  a  very  sunny  corner,  to  hurry  their 
buds  to  a  state  of  rest.  Before  the  sharp  frosts  set  in  they  may  have 
their  decayed  foliage  cut  away  and  be  again  plunged. 
About  the  third  practice  little  need  be  said.  The  soil  will,  of  course, 
be  prepared  as  advised  in  the  first  detailed  practice,  and  in  planting 
the  roots  may  be  either  dibbled  thickly  in  rows  or  planted  all  over  the 
bed.  In  all  other  respects  they  may  be  treated  as  the  others,  and  at 
the  end  of  the  second  summer  they  will  be  fit  for  forcing.  The  buds 
intended  for  selecting  from  must  be  taken  up  in  the  beginning  of 
November,  and  the  roots  sorted  carefully — all  the  largest  crowns  being 
reserved  for  potting.  These  may  be  singled  out  and  dibbled  into  any 
size  of  pot  or  box  desired,  and  protected  as  recommended  for  the  others. 
Thus  much  for  culture  outdoors.  Now  a  few  words  about  the 
forcing.  There  is  no  difficulty  in  this  procedure  if  plenty  of  time  be 
given  ;  for  they  would,  doubtless,  blossom  much  before  the  usual  period, 
if  only  placed  beneath  the  greenhouse  stage  ;  but  to  obtain  good  blooms 
in  December  and  January  is  altogether  another  affair.  To  accomplish 
this,  it  is  necessary  to  resort  to  bottom  heat,  and  I  have  found  from 
70°  to  75°  most  congenial.  My  practice  is  to  plunge  them  in  warm 
tan  or  leaves ;  but  care  must  be  taken  to  uncover  them  as  soon  as 
they  have  sprouted  about  2  inches  in  length,  or  they  will  become  so 
weak  as  not  to  be  able  to  sustain  their  weight.  It  is  necessary  to  place 
a  lighter  or  finer  material  over  their  crowns  when  plunged,  or  the 
pressure  of  the  leaves  or  tan  will  bind  them  down  and  spoil  their 
character.  I  always  pile  up  a  mound  of  finely  riddled  old  tan  over 
them,  and  this  answers  admirably.  We  sometimes  force  them  in  the 
Mushroom  house,  sometimes  in  front  of  a  Pine  pit ;  and,  indeed,  the 
structure  is  quite  immaterial,  as  darkness  is  essential  until  they  have 
sprouted  a  couple  of  inches.  Care  must  be  taken  on  their  first  intro¬ 
duction  to  light  that  it  be  done  gradually,  and  it  is  best  to  place  them 
in  a  shady  part  of  the  greenhouse  or  other  struccure  for  awhile,  pro¬ 
tected  equally  from  cold  currents  of  air  and  from  sunshine,  and  they 
should  be  frequently  syringed  ;  in  fact,  a  rather  moist  atmosphere  is 
indispensable,  and  a  temperature  from  50°  to  60°  will  be  amply  sufficient 
until  in  blossom,  when  the  cooler  they  are  kept  the  finer  will  the  blooms 
be,  the  longer  they  will  endure,  and  the  higher  will  be  their  scent. 
When  the  foliage  becomes  green  by  exposure  to  light  and  air  they 
will  be  improved  by  sunshine  at  an  early  period  ;  but  as  the  spring 
advances  little  sunshine  will  be  necessary.  They  will  require  water 
liberally  whilst  in  blossom.  The  freer  the  circulation  of  air  the  higher 
will  the  scent  be  ;  and  I  should  prefer,  at  the  blooming  period,  a 
temperature  of  from  40°  to  55°  to  a  higher  one,  and  they  will  thus  con¬ 
tinue  much  longer  in  blossom. — Practice. 
FACTORS  OF  A  SOIL'S  FERTILITY, 
The  reports  of  experiments  instituted  by  the  Government  of  the  * 
Dominion  of  Canada  generally  contain  suggestive  matter,  and  that  of 
the  chemist  (Mr.  F.  T.  Shutt)  is  no  exception  to  the  rule.  The  factors 
on  which  the  fertility  of  the  soil  depends  are  many.  The  amount  of 
plant  food  and  its  degree  of  solubility,  the  mechanical  texture  or 
tilth  and  climate  (temperature,  amount  of  rainfall)  are  the  chief  of 
these.  Mr.  Shutt  says  : — 
“  Soil  to  be  fertile  must  contain  the  elements  of  plant  food  in  such 
forms  that  they  can  be  readily  used  for  the  nutrition  of  vegetation.  At 
the  same  time  its  condition  must  not  be  too  loose,  else  a  firm  hold  will 
not  be  afforded  to  the  roots  of  plants,  and  there  will  be  too  much  drain¬ 
age  and  evaporation.  Nor  must  it  be  too  heavy  and  plastic,  for  then  air 
and  water  could  not  freely  permeate  it  nor  the  roots  extend  themselves 
beyond  a  very  limited  area.  Generally  speaking,  light  loose  soils  are 
not  so  rich  in  plant  food  as  those  in  which  clay  predominates  ;  yet,  on 
account  of  their  excellent  condition  of  tilth,  they  often  yield  in  favour¬ 
able  seasons  heavier  crops  than  the  latter.  Stiff  heavy  clays,  though 
rich  in  inorganic  plant  food  (potash  and  phosphoric  acid),  are  often  poor 
in  nitrogen,  while  their  condition  is  such  as  to  prevent  thorough  aeration 
and  the  penetration  of  the  roots.  It  is  these  soils  especially  that  are 
benefited  by  drainage.  By  a  system  of  drainage  the  water  which 
saturates  the  surface  soil  is  carried  off,  air  allowed  to  permeate,  the  whole 
rendered  more  friable  and  easily  worked,  and  much  plant  food  is  con¬ 
verted  into  assimilable  forms.  Where  sand  largely  predominates  the 
soil  is  not  retentive  of  moisture  and  fertilising  material,  especially  if 
the  subsoil  be  light,  and  though  easily  worked  is  not  so  desirable  in  dry 
seasons  as  a  heavier  soil.  A  proper  proportion  of  sand  and  clay,  there¬ 
fore,  for  many  reasons  makes  the  best  soil. 
“  With  the  clay  and  sand  varying  amounts  of  peaty  matter  or  humus 
(derived  from  the  decomposition  of  vegetable  matter)  and  of  calcareous 
matter  (principally  carbonate  of  lime)  are  usually  associated,  and  a 
right  proportion  of  the  two  latter  exerts  a  beneficial  .nfluence  upon  the 
tifth  of  a  soil.  From  the  presence  of  these  predominating  materials 
soils  are  known  respectively  as  clay — sandy,  peaty,  and  calcareous^ 
according  as  the  one  or  the  other  is  in  excess.  By  the  slow  decomposi¬ 
tion  of  the  clay  and  the  peaty  and  calcareous  matter  plant  nutrients  are 
liberated  in  a  soluble  form,  and  therefore  the  function  of  these  soil 
fundamentals  is  not  only  mechanical  but  chemical. 
“  The  most  important  in  organic  constituents  of  a  soil  are  potash  and 
phosphoric  acid.  These,  together  with  nitrogen,  are  known  as  the 
essential  elements  of  plant  food.  Potash— derived  principally  from  the 
decomposition  of  felspathic  rocks,  6.g.,  granite— exists  chiefly  in  com¬ 
bination  with  silica  in  a  more  or  less  soluble  condition.  The  limits  of 
potash  in  a  soil  lie  between  a  mere  trace  and  about  2  per  cent,  A  good 
agricultural  (or  garden)  soil  contains  between  0  2o  and  1  per  cent.  Clay 
soils  usually  are  the  richest  in  potash.  Potash  as  a  fertiliser  is  of 
special  value  to  Clover.  Peas,  and  other  leguminous  crops  ;  Potatoes, 
Beets,  Cabbage,  grasses,  and  leafy  plants  in  general,  are  also  benefited  by 
it.  It  should  form  a  large  part  of  manures  for  orchards  and  all  fruit 
trees. 
“  Phosphoric  acid,  combined  principally  with  lime,  is  found  in  all 
fertile  soils.  Like  potash,  it  has  been  derived  frotn  the  rock  that 
originated  tbe  soil,  and  consequently  is  not  constant  in  quantity.  It 
never  exceeds  I  per  cent,  even  in  the  richest  soils,  and  the  average  in 
good  soils  is  about  0-2  per  cent.  It  benefits  chiefly  root  crops,  eg., 
Turnips  and  Beets,  and  in  conjunction  with  nitrogenous  manures  is  very 
effective  for  the  cereals,  promoting  an  early  maturity  and  an  increased 
yield.  _  ,  t  • 
“  Lime. — Of  the  inorganic  elements  of  minor  importance  lime  is  the 
principal.  It  affords  food  directly  to  the  plant,  and  liberates  in  the 
soil  potash  and  nitrogen,  pre-existent  in  insoluble  forms.  Many  consider 
that  less  than  I  per  cent,  shows  a  soil  to  be  deficient  in  lime,  and 
calcareous  soils  are  almost  invariably  fertile. 
