184 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
An^ust  22,  1895. 
“  Nitrogen  is  the  element  of  value  in  the  organic  portion  of  a  soil. 
It  there  exists,  for  the  most  part,  in  forms  from  which  it  can  be  bat 
slowly  absorbed  by  plants.  By  a  process  of  fermentation,  known  as 
nitrification,  it  is  rendered  assimilable.  The  presence  of  lime 
(carbonate  of  lime)  appears  to  assist  in  this  useful  operation,  especially 
when  the  ground  is  sufficiently  open  for  the  air  to  permeate  it. 
Moisture  and  warmth  are  also  necessary  to  encourage  the  growth  of  the 
microscopic  ferment,  which  causes  the  formation  of  nitrates  from 
nitrogenous  material.  Very  rich  soils  contain  from  0'5  to  1  per  cent,  of 
nitrogen  ;  good  fertile  soils  possess  on  an  average  from  0-15  per  cent,  to 
0  25  per  cent.  An  excess  of  nitrogen,  however,  promotes  undue  rankness 
of  growth.” 
Such  is  the  barest  outline  of  what  the  Government  of  Canada  does  in 
aiding  the  agriculturists  and  horticulturists  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
soil.  The  report  treats  of  alkaline  soils,  the  barrenness  of  which  is 
traced  to  sulphate  of  magnesium  (Epsom  salts),  and  not  sulphate  or 
carbonate  of  sodium  (the  usual  forms  of  alkali).  Sodium  sulphate 
(Glauber’s  salt)  is,  however,  deleterious  to  vegetation,  while  5  per  cent, 
of  magnesium  sulphate  added  to  good  soil  greatly  retarded  the  germina¬ 
tion  of  seeds.  “  Many  of  the  seeds  (Wheat,  Peas,  and  Indian  Corn)  sown 
never  produced  plants  that  appeared  above  the  surface  of  the  soil,  while 
those  which  came  up  lacked  robustness,  made  but  little  growth,  and 
then  died.  All  the  experiments  proved  that  magnesium  sulphate  to  the 
extent  of  5  per  cent,  in  the  soil  is  most  disastrous  to  plant  life.”  As  a 
corrective  powdered  chalk  (carbonate  of  lime)  was  mixed  with  the  soil, 
and  it  to  some  extent  counteractpd  the  deleterious  effects  of  the 
magnesium  sulphate.  When  lime  [limestone  burned,  staked  =  quicklime] 
was  substituted  for  carbonate  ot  lime  in  the  soil  containing  the  5  per 
«cent.  of  magnesium  sulphate,  the  reaction  of  the  lime  in  rendering  the 
magnesium  salt  insoluble  was  quicker  and  the  results  betGr— indeed, 
lime  proved  the  more  efficacious  of  the  two.  It  would  appear,  therefore, 
that  soils  barren  from  the  presence  of  this  salt  (magnesium  sulphate) 
may,  by  the  simple  method  of  treatment  with  lime,  be  brought  into  a 
state  of  fertility.  Of  course,  drainage  should  be  resorted"  to,  as  the 
alkali  is  soluble  in  water, 
”  Where  a  large  proportion  of  the  saline  matter  is  sodium  sulphate, 
the  treatment  with  lime  would  first  result  in  the  formation  of  corrosive 
soda,  and  then  of  sodium  carbonate.  This  would  finally  be  converted 
into  sodium  sulphate.  Although  much  slower  in  its  action,  carbonate  of 
lime  would  here  prove  beneficial,  since  it  would  render  the  magnesium 
salt  insoluble  without  reacting  upon  the  sodium  compound.  An  appli¬ 
cation  of  a  mixture  of  gypsum  and  lime  in  such  a  case  might  also  be  of 
benefit,  the  former  having  the  tendency  to  keep  the  sodium  salt  as 
sulphate,  the  latter  converting  the  magnesium  salt  into  an  insoluble 
form.  This  treatment  should  be  carried  out  in  onjanction  with 
drainage,  which  must  also  be  resorted  to  wherever  practicable.  For 
soils  impregnated  with  alkali  in  which  sodium  sulphate  largely  pre¬ 
dominates,  drainage,  deep  ploughing,  thorough  cultivation,  and  high 
manuring  are  the  only  remedies  that  can  now  be  recommended  with 
confidence. 
"  Of  all  the  constituents  of  plant  food  taken  from  the  soil  by  growing 
crops,  there  are  but  three  that  it  is  generally  necessary  to  return — viz., 
nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid,  and  potash,  and  repeated  experiments  the 
world  over  have  proved  that  the  fertility  of  the  soil  can  only  be 
maintained  by  such  a  return.  Without  it  the  land  becomes,  by 
successive  cropping,  less  and  less  productive.  Where  mixed  farming 
is  in  vogue,  ordinary  well-preserved  farmyard  manure  is  no  doubt  the 
most  economical  form  in  which  to  supply  these  elements,  since  by 
this  means  nearly  80  per  cent,  of  the  plant  food  taken  from  the  soil 
is  replaced.  From  various  causes,  however,  it  often  occurs  that  the 
supply  is  inadequate,  and  must  be  supplemented  from  outside  sources. 
Leaving  out  of  consideration  for  the  present  the  question  of  phosphoric 
acid  and  potash,  we  may  discuss  briefly  the  sources  from  which 
available  nitrogen  may  be  obtained,  other  than  that  already  mentioned. 
These  fall  into  three  classes. 
“  1,  Artificial  fertilisers,  such  as  nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of 
ammonia.  These  present  nitrogen  to  the  rootlets  of  plants  in  an 
exceedingly  soluble  form.  They  are,  moreover,  concentrated  fertilisers, 
since  weight  by  weight  they  possess  a  much  larger  proportion  of  this 
element  than  other  nitrogenous  manures.  Their  cost,  however, 
militates  against  their  general  use,  and  necessitates  —  for  their 
economical  application — a  considerable  amount  of  skill  and  experiment¬ 
ing  on  the  part  of  the  former. 
“2,  Green  manures.  This  method  consists  in  ploughing  under  a 
growing  crop,  preferably  of  Clover,  Peas,  or  some  other  of  the 
leguminous  plants.  These  plants  are  known  as  nitrogen  collectors  in 
contradistinction  to  others  which  are  nirrogen  consumers.  They  are 
able  to  appropriate  and  assimilate  nitrogen  from  the  atmosphere,  which, 
when  the  plants  are  turned  in,  is  preserved  in  the  soil  for  the  growth 
of  succeeding  crops.  For  light  sandy  soils,  poor  in  organic  matter 
and  nitrogen,  this  method  of  manuring  can  be  highly  recommended. 
It  is  economical,  since  it  is  both  cheap  and  effective,  improving  the  tilth 
and  adding  to  the  store  of  fertility. 
“  3,  Muck,  leaf  mould  and  peat.  These  consist  largely  of  semi-decom¬ 
posed  vegetable  matter,  and  contain  a  considerable,  though  variable, 
amount  of  nitrogen.  This  nitrogen  is  not  so  readily  available  as  are 
the  two  classes  of  nitrogenous  manures  we  have  just  considered,  but  by 
fermentation  of  the  material  it  may  be  converted  into  assimilable  forms. 
The  value  of  a  muck  (bog  soil)  or  similar  material  depends  chiefly,  there¬ 
fore,  on  its  percentage  of  nitrogen.  By  a  suitable  treatment  of  the  air-dried 
muck  or  peat  many  farmers  may  obtain  at  little  cost  a  manure  not  only 
rich  in  the  valuable  element  of  nitrogen,  but  also  containing  notable 
quantities  of  other  plant  food  constituents.  All  fertile  soils  possess 
high  percentages  of  organic  matter.  This,  besides  yielding  nitrogen, 
liberates  in  the  soil,  by  its  decomposition,  carbonic  acid.  This  latter, 
undoubtedly,  exerts  a  beneficial  action  in  setting  free  mineral  plant 
food.  It  is,  therefore,  apparent  that  green  manuring,  or  an  application 
of  composted  muck,  serves  many  useful  purposes  in  the  soil.  Besides 
acting  chemically,  such  materials  serve  to  mellow  heavy  soils  by 
rendering  them  porous  and  permeable  to  the  air,  while  sandy  and 
light  soils  have  their  retentive  and  absorbent  qualities  increased.  We 
may  briefly  discuss  the  different  ways  in  which  muck  and  pent  may 
be  treated  before  being  applied  to  the  land. 
“  The  air-dried  substance  is  extremely  absorbent  and  capable  of 
soaking  up  and  retaining  large  quantities  of  liquid  manure.  Its  use  for 
bedding  stock  and  for  spreading  in  the  barnyard  is  therefore  apparent. 
By  a  plentiful  application  much  valuable  fertilising  material  that  would 
otherwise  go  to  waste  is  saved.  The  stable  manure  not  only  has  its  good 
qualities  preserved,  but  by  the  ensuing  fermentation  the  nitrogen  of  the 
muck  is  rendered  available.  When  it  is  properly  preserved  and 
fermented  there  results  a  quick  acting  and  forcing  manure. 
“  Wood  Ashes. — For  orchards,  vineyards,  and  small  fruit  plantations 
wood  ashes  are  of  especial  value,  though  at  the  same  time  they  should  be 
supplemented  by  a  more  complete  manure.  All  leafy  crops — eg., 
Cabbage,  Beet,  and  Potato,  and  leguminous  plants,  as  Clover,  Pea,  and 
Bean,  require  a  liberal  supply  ot  potash,  and  hence  are  much  benefited 
by  an  application  of  wood  ashes.  They  are  also  of  much  value  in 
improving  the  tilths  of  light  sandy  soils,  cementing  together  the  grains 
of  sand  and  making  the  whole  more  retentive  of  moisture.  Wood  ashes 
have  long  been  used  to  advantage  for  making  a  compost  with  muck  or 
peat.  The  resulting  manure  is  one  that  is  exceedingly  rich  in  available 
nitrogen  and  potash.” 
Reference  is  made  to  gypsum  as  useful  in  liberating  potash  in  the 
soil  and  labsorbing  or  fixing  ammonia,  in  addition  to  supplying  certain 
elements  (sulphur  and  lime)  of  plant  food.  An  application  to  rich  soils 
is  followed  by  excellent  results,  on  poor  soils  it  must  be  supplemented 
by  manure  containing  nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid  and  potash.  “Gypsum 
has  been  found  of  special  value  for  Peas  and  Clover.  Since  it  sets  potash 
free  it  is  also  useful  for  Turnips  [where  the  land  is  not  infested  with 
Club-root  fungus],  Indian  corn,  and  many  crops  that  require  large 
quantities  of  this  element.  Powdered  gypsum,  when  sprinkled  in 
stables  and  cowhouse,  preserves  much  ammonia  [valuable  plant  food] 
that  would  otherwise  escape  and  be  lost.” 
Green  manuring  with  the  legumes — i.e.,  ploughing  under  a  crop  ot 
Clover,  or  Peas  preferably  while  in  flower,  is  one  of  the  cheapest  and 
most  effective  methods  of  enriching  and  improving  the  soil.  It  increases 
the  amount  of  organic  matter  and  nitrogen,  the  latter  being  readily 
available  for  succeeding  crops.” 
Such  is  merest  outline  of  the  work  of  the  chemist  in  aiding  the  farmer 
and  gardener  to  make  the  soil  produce  profitable  crops — G.  Abbey. 
ANNUALS  FOR  SPRING. 
From  the  middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  June  is  always  our  worst 
time  in  the  flower  garden,  whether  its  ornaments  be  planted  in  masses 
or  only  in  the  mixed  way.  Annuals  are  uncertain  in  the  summer,  as 
we  all  know,  and  few  people  like  to  trust  to  more  than  a  very  few 
sorts  of  them  for  keeping  the  beds  full  for  any  length  of  time,  too,  the 
first  difficulty  a  new  beginner  meets  with.  He  is  no  gardener,  but  he 
wants  flowers,  and  would  like  to  try  his  hand  at  something  cheap  to 
get  experience.  No  plants  are  cheaper  than  annuals,  and  from  the 
present  time  to  the  first  week  in  September  is  the  time  to  sow  a  number 
of  them. 
When  the  beds  and  borders  of  a  mixed  flower  garden  are  dressed 
in  the  spring,  and  all  the  established  plants  have  sticks  or  labels  set  to 
mark  the  places,  the  spare  ground  ought  to  be  immediately  filled 
with  the  different  kinds  of  annuals  that  were  sown  in  the  autumn,  for 
they  are  as  easily  removed  and  planted  as  Cabbages,  and  coming  into 
flower  just  at  the  time  we  are  most  in  need  of  their  aid  it  is  our  own 
fault  if  we  do  not  come  up  to  the  mark  six  weeks  earlier  every  year 
than  many  of  us  are  now  in  the  habit  of  doing. 
Like  all  other  crops,  annuals  sown  in  the  autumn  are  liable  to  be 
injured  by  the  weather.  A  very  mild  and  late  autumn  is  much  against 
them,  because  they  grow  too  rank  and  are  very  liable  to  be  cut  off  by  a 
very  severe  winter.  The  soil  should  be  light  and  poor,  and  the  situation 
an  open  airy  spot  away  from  where  fallen  leaves  are  likely  to  gather  in 
heaps  by  the  wind.  This  gathering  together  is  the  very  worst  thing  I 
know  of  for  any  seedlings,  for  if  such  quantities  of  leaves  rest  on  the 
seed  bed  for  a  week  the  little  seedlings  are  either  smothered  or  made 
so  tender  and  blanched  that  the  first  dry  wind  or  cold  night  finishes 
them.  The  soil  should  not  be  dug  more  than  3  inches  deep,  and  the  seeds 
should  be  sown  thinly.  A  deep  bed  is  likely  to  encourage  the  seedlings 
to  grow  too  fast  and  bulky,  and  so  make  them  more  liable  to  be  cut 
with  frost,  and  if  they  are  thick  in  the  bed  the  one  helps  to  draw  up 
the  other  too  weak  and  spindly.  Like  many  other  causes  of  success  in 
gardening,  attention  to  these  little  matters  is  more  essential  than  great 
skill  or  practical  knowledge. 
The  best  thing  to  cover  seed  beds  in  the  autumn  is  one-half  light 
soil  and  one-half  finely  sifted  coal  ashes,  from  which  the  very  fine 
dust  ard  the  rough  cinders  are  taken.  The  first  few  rains  will  wash 
down  all  the  finer  particles  of  this  compost  for  the  roots  to  work  in, 
and  the  surface  is  left  gritty  and  porous,  so  that  the  stems  and  collars 
of  the  seedlings  have  free  air  and  elbow  room  instead  of  being 
