212 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
August  29, 18  9S. 
the  vigour  of  the  plants  and  the  quantity  of  roots  already  made.  If 
these  are  abundant  and  fibrous  the  plants  may  be  transferred  to 
permanent  quarters  without  check.  Newly  prepared  ground  should  be 
made  firm  before  planting,  as  the  Strawberry  succeeds  best  in  a  firm 
medium,  this  encouraging  surface  rooting  and  the  production  of  sturdy 
foliage. 
Cut  off  newly  produced  runners  on  both  young  and  old  plants  ;  also 
where  the  early  formed  runners  are  still  attached  to  the  plants,  forming 
a  thicket  of  growth  ;  the  operation  of  clearing  ought  not  to  be  longer 
delayed.  Few,  if  any,  runners  for  planting  can  be  had  from  this  rank 
growth,  which  is  weakened  and  useless.  On  the  outside  of  rows,  and 
where  runners  have  spread  thinly,  plants  for  forming  new  plantations 
must  be  selected.  Previous  or  special  preparation  of  runners,  however, 
gives  the  best  results. 
Destroying'  Red  Spider. — Wall  trees  cleared  of  fruit,  and  having 
the  leaves  attacked  with  red  spider,  are  benefited  by  being  freely 
syringed  with  clear  water,  and  occasionally  drenched  with  soapy  water 
or  a  solution  of  some  approved  insecticide.  Water  at  the  roots  may 
also  be  needed,  a  dry  state  of  the  soil,  eupecially  at  the  foot  of  walls, 
conducing  to  the  increase  of  these  pests.  Poor  soil  is  another  cause  of  red 
spider  appearing,  therefore  the  best  plan  in  this  case  is  to  enrich  the  soil 
about  the  roots  with  liquid  manure,  first  seeing  that  it  is  thoroughly 
moist  before  applving  liquid  stimulants. 
Weeds  on  Fruit  Borders. — It  was  easy  to  keep  weeds  down 
during  the  dry  weather,  but  since  the  rain  they  are  again  growing 
rapidly.  Many  will  quickly  ripen  seeds  if  not  destroyed  before  they 
flower.  A  few  hours’  work  with  the  hoe  on  a  bright  day  soon  lays  them 
low,  and  the  sun  withers  them. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliest  Fig  House. — This  may  contain  trees  in  pots  or 
planted  out.  The  first  is  much  better  for  securing  very  early  Figs,  as  the 
trees  are  more  under  control  and  selection  can  be  made  of  the  most 
promising  for  yielding  a  first  crop,  which  is  much  the  most  valuable, 
dishes  of  ripe  Figs  in  April  being  prized,  as  fresh  ripe  fruit  is  not  then 
plentiful,  and  there  is  always  a  charm  in  variety  at  dessert.  The  house 
should  be  light,  airy,  and  well  heated.  A  low  three-quarter  span-roof 
house  facing  the  south  is  best  with  a  pit  for  holding  fermenting 
material,  such  as  Beech,  Spanish  Chestnut,  or  Oak  leaves,  which  gives 
off  a  moist  genial  heat  and  moisture  over  a  considerable  period,  greatly 
reducing  the  necessity  for  fire  heat  and  more  suitable  for  the  Fig  trees. 
Those  intended  for  early  forcing  in  pots  may  be  placed  outdoors  when 
the  wood  is  ripe,  but  they  must  not  be  so  treated  if  there  is  any  doubt 
about  this,  keeping  them  under  glass  with  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
These  are  matters  on  which  the  cultivator  will  need  to  exercise  his 
judgment.  In  either  case  encourage  surface  roots  by  dressings  of 
manure,  rough  loam,  and  a  sprinkling  of  superphosphate.  See  that  those 
placed  outdoors  do  not  root  from  the  base  of  the  pots.  Cut  oil  all  roots 
that  have  passed  into  the  plunging  material,  top-dress,  after  which  give 
a  good  watering,  and  they  will  need  no  more  water  than  suffices  to  keep 
the  foliage  in  health. 
In  the  case  of  the  earliest  forced  planted-out  trees  these  will  now  be 
ripening  their  wood,  and  watering  may  be  discontinued,  air  being  given 
very  liberally.  If,  however,  the  second  crop  is  not  yet  ripened  moderate 
moisture  in  the  soil  will  be  necessary,  with  a  free  circulation  of  warm 
air  to  secure  quality  in  the  fruit.  When  the  fruit  is  off  take  prompt 
measures  to  destroy  insects. 
Fig  Trees  Unsatisjactory. — Planted  out  trees  not  unfrequently  grow 
rampantly,  and  consequently  produce  thin  crops  of  fruit.  In  that  case 
lifting  and  root-pruning  should  be  resorted  to,  and  the  roots  confined  to 
a  narrow  border  3  to  4  feet  in  width,  or  not  more  than  one-third  the 
breadth  of  trellis  the  trees  are  to  occupy.  A  trench  taken  out  at  this 
distance  from  the  stem  down  to  the  drainage  after  the  fruit  is  gathered 
will  check  the  tendency  to  a  late  growth,  assist  in  the  ripening  of  the 
wood,  more  particularly  if  the  growths  are  thinly  disposed,  and  the 
points  of  the  shoots  instead  of  being  closely  tied  in  are  allowed  to  grow 
up  to  the  glass.  If  the  drainage  be  defective  it  will  be  necessary  to 
lift  the  trees  in  the  autumn  as  soon  as  the  leaves  commence  falling,  and 
replant  in  fresh  compost.  Place  in  12  inches  of  drainage,  rough  at 
the  bottom,  and  finer  on  the  top,  that  at  the  bottom  being  the  size  of  half 
bricks,  and  in  degrees  smaller  upwards ;  have  the  material  about  the  size 
of  road  metal  at  the  top,  placing  on  this  a  2  or  3  inches  thickness  of  old 
mortar  rubbish,  freed  of  old  laths  and  other  pieces  of  wood,  smashed, 
and  sifted  with  a  half-inch  sieve,  using  that  remaining  in  the  sieve,  the 
finer  particles  being  suitable  for  mixing  with  the  compost  to  the  extent 
of  one-sixth.  Turfy  loam,  inclined  to  be  strong  rather  than  light,  forms 
a  suitable  rooting  medium,  provided  it  contains  a  fair  amount  gritty 
matter,  preferably  calcareous  gravel,  or  have  added  to  it  a  sixth  part  of 
old  mortar  rubbish. 
Where  obtainable  a  bushel  of  wood  ashes  may  be  mixed  with  each 
cartload  of  loam  and  a  peck  of  half-inch  bones.  Other  enriching 
materials  may  be  added  and  mixed  with  the  compost,  but  as  a  rule  it  is 
better  to  supply  these  in  available  form  as  the  growth  and  crop  require 
them,  than  admix  enriching  substances,  such  as  horse  droppings  or 
farmyard  manure  with  the  compost  for  making  the  borders.  When  the 
Soil  is  poor  a  fifth  part  of  horse  droppings  or  thoroughly  decayed 
farmyard  manure  may  be  incorporated  with  the  loam. 
In  replanting  ram  the  compost,  well  incorporated,  thoroughly  about 
the  rootf,  spreading  these  out  evenly  well  up  to  the  surface,  and  with 
soil  between  each  layer  so  as  not  to  have  the  roots  all  together.  This 
will  insure  a  fibrous  root  formation,  steady  progressive  growth,  short- 
jointed  fruitful  wood,  a  solidified  soil  duly  stored  with  nutrition,  securing. 
with  judicious  ventilation  and  management,  solidified  growth  and  large 
heavy  fruit.  The  border  may  be  2  feet  in  depth.  Should  the  drainage 
be  good  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  detach  the  roots  as  advised,  confine 
the  trees  to  the  narrow  border,  and  remove  some  of  the  old  soil  from 
amongst  the  roots,  supplying  fresh  compost  and  top-dressing  as  above 
stated. 
Pines. — Potting  Rooted,  Suckers. — Suckers  obtained  from  the 
summer  fruiting  plants  will  soon  be  ready  for  potting.  It  is  advisable 
to  divide  the  plants.  The  strongest  should  be  shifted  into  the  largest 
pots  as  soon  as  ready,  employing  10  or  11-inch  pots,  according  to  the 
variety,  affording  them  a  position  near  the  glass  in  a  light,  airy  house, 
keeping  them  gently  moving  during  the  winter.  The  plants  so  treated 
will  be  readily  excited  into  fruit  next  May  or  June,  and  will  afford  a 
good  SHCcessional  supply  of  ripe  fruit  in  late  summer  or  early  autumn. 
The  other  suckers  from  the  summer  fruiters  not  large  enough  to  shift 
into  the  fruiting  pots  winter  best  in  7  or  8-inch  pots,  transferring  them 
to  larger  as  soon  as  ready  in  the  spring,  which,  with  suckers  of  Smooth¬ 
leaved  Cayenne  that  were  started  last  March,  will  afford  a  successional 
supply  of  fruit  through  the  winter  months. 
Re-arranging  Pine  Plants. — A  re-arrangement  of  the  plants  should 
now  be  made  in  order  to  separate  the  fruiting  from  the  non-fruiting 
plants,  as  many  of  those  that  were  started  from  suckers  of  last  summer’s 
fruiting  plants  will  now  have  fruit  swelling.  Those  plants  not  fruiting 
will  have  completed  their  growth,  and  should  have  air  very  liberally  for 
the  next  six  weeks  when  the  temperature  exceeds  80°,  maintaining  the 
bottom  heat  steady  at  80°;  and  all  plants  well  established — that  is,  well 
rooted — should  have  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  to  8-5°,  but  recently  potted 
suckers,  or  those  not  having  roots  well  established  in  the  fresh  compost, 
should  have  a  bottom  heat  of  90°  steadily  maintained  to  insure  speedy 
rooting. 
Fruiting  Plants.  —  Those  swelling  off  their  fruits  should  have 
moderate  atmospheric  moisture,  admitting  a  little  air  at  the  top  of  the 
house  early  in  the  morning,  so  as  to  allow  of  any  superfluous  moisture 
escaping  before  the  sun’s  rays  act  powerfully  upon  the  fruit.  Any  fruit 
it  is  desired  to  retard  should  be  moved  to  a  rather  cool  or  shady  house, 
admitting  abundance  of  air. 
Cucumbers. — General  Crops. — Shorter  days  necessitate  closing  the 
house  earlier,  also  syringing  sooner,  so  as  to  have  the  foliage  dry  before 
dusk.  Fire  heat  will  be  necessary  in  cold  weather  to  maintain  a  tem¬ 
perature  of  70°  to  75°  by  day  and  60°  to  70°  at  night.  Keep  the  growths 
fairly  thin,  removing  did  shoots  so  as  to  make  room  for  young  ones,  and 
so  provide  a  succession  of  bearing  parts.  Stop  the  shoots  one  joint 
beyond  the  fruit  unless  growth  is  wanted,  then  allow  more  extension, 
but  avoid  crowding.  Encourage  root  action  by  a  steady  bottom  heat  of 
80°,  surface  dressing  with  lumpy  loam  and  sweetened  horse  droppings, 
and  afford  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state  whenever  water  is  required. 
Do  not  allow  the  fruit  to  hang  after  it  becomes  fit  for  use,  and  avoid 
overcropping. 
Autumn  Fruiters. — Afford  every  encouragement  to  these  plants, 
stopping  so  as  to  insure  an  even  spread  of  bearing  growths.  Remove 
the  first  fruits,  also  the  male  blossoms  and  tendrils.  No  shading  will 
now  be  necessary.  Avoid  syringiug  in  the  morning,  and  only  use  the 
syringe  on  fine  afternoons,  then  early  and  lightly,  keeping  the  house 
damped  as  occasion  requires.  Admit  air  in  moderation,  draughts  being 
avoided,  as  they  chili  and  stunt  the  growths,  and  if  no  air  be  given  the 
foliage  becomes  very  thin  and  flabby,  a  close,  moist,  and  warm  atmo¬ 
sphere  in  excess  inducing  many  ailments  to  which  Cucumbers  are  liable. 
Seek,  therefore,  to  encourage  sturdy  thoroughly  solidified  growth  by 
early  and  judicious  ventilation  whilst  opportunity  offers,  but  without 
gentle  fire  heat  this  is  hardly  practicable  at  this  season. 
Winter  Fruiters. — Seeds  having  been  sown  at  the  beginning  of 
August  the  plants  will  soon  be  ready  for  to  plant  out.  The  house  must 
be  a  light  one,  and  have  means  of  securing  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75° 
in  all  weathers,  also  of  maintaining  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  to  90°.  The 
first  consideration  is  to  thoroughly  cleanse  the  house. 
All  soil  previously  used  should  be  cleared  out,  and  the  whole  of  the 
interior  scalded  with  hot  water.  This  vsill  make  quick  work  of  any 
fungal  and  insect  pests  it  reaches,  besides  softening  the  accumulated 
dirty  deposits,  which  should  be  cleared  from  wood  and  iron  work  with 
softsoap,  water,  and  a  brush,  cleansing  the  glass  inside  and  outside  with 
clear  water,  limewashing  the  walls  with  fresh  lime  formed  into  a  white¬ 
wash  consistence  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  copper,  three-quarters  of 
an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  disinfecting  the  bed  part  with  soluble 
phenyle,  a  wineglassful  to  3  gallons  of  water,  syringing  it  on  the 
walls  of  the  bed.  Everything  in  other  respects  should  also  be  put 
into  proper  order.  If  rubble  is  used  over  and  about  the  hot-water  pipes 
for  bottom  heat  see  that  the  material  is  clean,  and  if  not  take  it  out  and 
clean  it  by  washing. 
Secure  the  drainage  with  a  layer  of  turves,  grass  side  downwards. 
These,  if  there  be  a  susp  cion  of  eelworm,  may  be  watered  with  a 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate,  1  oz.  to  30  gallons  of  water,  and  the 
compost  likewise  be  treated  similarly  in  advance  of  putting  out  the 
plants.  Place  in  hillocks  or  ridges  of  soil  2  fett  wide  at  the  base,  10  to 
12  inches  deep,  and  1  foot  across  at  the  top.  Turfy  loam,  laid  up  until, 
the  grass  is  killed,  chopped  rather  roughly,  two-thirds  ;  fibrous  sandy 
peat  one-third,  chopped  or  torn  up,  rejecting  any  woody  matter  ;  old 
mortar  rubbish,  freed  of  laths  and  otner  pieces  of  wood,  the  rough 
broken  small,  one-sixth  ;  charcoal  nuts,  one-twelfth  ;  the  whole, 
thoroughly  incorporated,  form  a  suitable  compost.  It  should  be  neither 
wet  nor  dry,  and  only  made  moderately  firm.  This  material  is  equally 
suitable  for  plants  in  pots  or  boxes,  which  should  be  well  drained,  and 
only  so  far  filled  with  soil  that  when  the  plants  are  introduced  their 
