222 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  5, 1895. 
MODERN  GRAPE  GROWING— THINNING  THE 
BUNCHES. 
{Continued  from  page  158.) 
How  many  buncbes  to  leave  on  a  Vine  is  a  question  which  cannot  be 
answered  straight  off  without  knowing  something  of  the  conditions. 
We  first  thin  to  one  bunch  on  a  lateral  without  exception  as  soon  as 
they  are  sufficiently  developed  to  pick  out  with  the  finger-nail.  If  the 
bunches  are  not  likely  to  average  more  than  three-quarters  of  a  pound, 
and  there  is  a  prospect  of  having  half  a  dozen  good  leaves  fully  exposed 
to  the  light  on  every  lateral,  one  bunch  may  remain  on  each  till  the 
flowers  are  set,  and  then  after  cutting  a  few  faulty  ones  away  the  crop 
may  not  be  too  heavy.  With  bunches  averaging  Ij  lb.,  one  on  every 
other  lateral  will  be  sufficient,  and  if  larger  bunches  are  produced  or 
required  there  must  be  more  room  allowed  for  leaf  growth.  The  bunches 
on  the  best  of  our  Vines  would  average  3  lbs.,  but  then  the  laterals  are 
21  to  3  feet  in  length,  and  are  furnished  with  eight  or  ten  large  leaves 
besides  small  ones,  and  the  main  stems  being  5  feet  apart,  almost  every 
leaf  is  fully  exposed  to  the  light  ;  in  fact,  not  only  is  this  the  case,  but 
there  is  scarcely  a  patch  of  border  a  foot  square  that  the  sun  does 
not  reach  between  the  leaves  some  time  during  the  day  if  it  is 
shining. 
The  weight  of  fruit  should  be  regulated  according  to  the  area  of  well 
placed  healthy  foliage.  I  have  seen  1  lb.  to  the  foot  run  of  rod  recom¬ 
mended  as  a  fair  crop,  and  I  expect  that  where  the  rods  are  only  2^  or 
3  feet  apart  this  is  sufficient  if  good  quality  is  aimed  at,  but  I  allow 
nearly  double  that  weight  on  well-established,  healthy  Vines,  and 
although  I  have  heard  of  some  growers  cropping  very  lightly  for 
exhibition  purposes  I  have  never  seen  any  advantages  arising  from 
leaving  less  than  a  moderate  crop.  Overcropping,  of  course,  is  a  very 
great  evil,  but  what  would  be  overcropping  in  one  case  would  be  a  very 
moderate  affair  in  another  ;  in  the  same  way  as  it  is  mere  play  for  one 
man  to  carry  a  sack  of  flour,  while  another  might  as  well  try  to  carry 
a  full  grown  elephant.  In  estimating  the  quantity  of  fruit  a  Vine  is 
able  to  carry  satisfactorily,  its  behaviour  and  condition  during  the 
previous  season  should  always  be  taken  into  consideration.  If  it  has 
carried  a  good  crop  well  without  shanking  and  finished  it  off  in  a 
creditable  manner  ;  if  its  foliage  has  kept  green  till  the  wood  became 
thoroughly  ripened,  and  then  died  off  with  its  natural  autumnal  colours, 
and  if  the  border  bias  not  been  allowed  to  suffer  for  the  want  of  water 
during  the  ripening  of  the  crop,  it  may  be  fairly  assumed  that  with  good 
attention  it  will  do  the  same  again  or  better.  This  stinting  of  water 
during  the  ripening  of  the  crop  is  a  very  common  and  a  very  foolish 
error,  handed  down  I  suppose  from  our  forefathers,  for  even  our  good 
old  friend  Robert  Thompson,  who  wrote  and  spoke  so  much  that  was 
sound,  says,  in  the  “  Gardener’s  Assistant,”  first  edition  (page  685)  : — 
“  On  account  of  the  flavour  of  the  Grapes,  water,  after  the  period  of 
colouring,  should  be  sparingly  given;  the  quantity  ought  to  be  just 
enough  to  supply  the  amount  carried  off  by  evaporation,  and  scarcely  so 
much  during  the  final  stage  of  maturation.” 
This  I  consider  very  bad  advice,  as  it  is  a  time  when  the  roots 
under  favourable  conditions  are  most  active,  and  necessarily  so,  for  they 
have  not  only  t’ne  current  crop  to  bring  to  perfection,  but  they  have  to 
lay  in  stores  sufficient  to  last  them  in  the  spring,  till  some  of  the 
earlier  leaves  have  attained  nearly  their  full  dimensions.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  the  knowledge  of  this  has  to  a  great  extent  enabled  the 
modern  cultivator  to  grow  finer  Grapes  than  his  father  did.  “  Just 
enough”  is  not  bad  advice  in  itself,  perhaps,  at  times  were  we  able  to 
follow  it,  but  we  have  no  means  at  present  of  knowing  when  we  have 
given  just  enough,  and  at  this  particular  season  when  satiety  is  almost 
difficult  it  is  safer  to  give  ]ust  a  little  more  than  enough  rather  than  just 
a  little  less. 
I  do  not  know  what  experience  Mr.  Thompson,  who  was  so  good  with 
hardy  fruits,  had  with  indoor  Grapes,  but  some  advice  he  gives  lower 
down  on  the  same  page  is  still  more  questionable.  He  says,  ”  With  just 
enough  (water)  the  Vines  will  be  healthy  and  generally  free  from 
insects,  whilst  the  fruit  will  be  well  swelled  and  of  good  quality.  If, 
notwithstanding  these  precautions,  the  red  spider  should  make  its 
appearance,  let  the  temperature  in  the  house  be  kept  in  the  morning 
at  the  lowest  safe  night  minimum,  which  we  shall  suppose  to  be  60°. 
The  leaves  will  be  nearly  of  that  temperature.  Then  shut  up  the 
house,  and  suddenly  raise  steam  to  produce  a  saturated  atmosphere, 
and  the  moisture  will  be  abundantly  condensed  on  the  whole  surface 
of  the  cooler  foliage.  At  the  same  time  the  syringe  may  be  plied  on 
the  leaves  wherever  it  is  possible  to  do  so  without  wetting  the 
bunches.” 
This,  be  it  remembered,  is  recommended  to  be  done  in  a  house  of 
ripening  Grapes.  Anyone  who  would  like  to  try  the  plan,  and  has  a 
house  of  young  Vines  which  are  not  fruiting  can  do  so,  but  I  cannot 
promise  him  the  process  will  kill  the  red  spider.  This  much  I  know, 
that  if  you  practise  it  in  a  house  of  vigorous  Muscats  with  well-swelled, 
ripening  fruit,  that  the  said  fruit  and  its  stems  will  give  notice  of 
dissolving  partnership,  and  that  Madresfield  Court  and  some  other 
varieties  would  seriously  resent  such  treatment.  I  have  had  many 
inquiries  as  to  Muscats  cracking  round  the  stems,  and  generally  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  it  was  caused  by  too  much  excitement,  with  perhaps 
checks  between,  during  the  ripening  period. 
Notwithstanding  what  I  have  quoted,  there  is  a  great  deal  on  Vines 
and  Grapes  in  Mr.  Thompson’s  work  that  is  worth  studying,  and  I 
believe  it  was  owing  to  a  chat  with  him  in  1850  I  started  thinking  that 
the  general  practice  of  keeping  the  lower  parts  of  Vines  bare  of  branches 
and  foliage  was  wrong.  Growing  standard  trees  was  the  subject  of 
conversation,  and  he  pointed  out  that  if  you  wanted  good  stout  stems 
you  must  allow  some  growth  to  remain  on  them  for  a  time  during  their 
youth.— Wm.  Taylor. 
SWEET  PEAS. 
Very  beautiful  are  the  Sweet  Peas  now — the  third  week  in  August. 
Heavy  rains  following  the  long  spell  of  dry  parching  weather  experienced 
in  May  and  June  gave  a  great  impetus  to  growth,  and  the  bright 
warm  days  following  brought  out  the  flowers.  I  grow  forty  varieties,  and 
have  them  in  separate  clumps,  4  feet  apart,  of  two  plants  of  each  variety. 
We  have  150  of  such  clumps  alongside  the  paths  in  the  kitchen  garden. 
Many  of  them  are  8  feet  high,  and  covered  with  flowers  for  more  than 
three  parts  of  their  height.  For  supporting  the  haulm  I  use  ordinary 
Pea  stakes,  about  four  tall  ones  to  each  clump,  put  in  the  ground  quite 
upright,  not  allowing  the  ordinary  lean  inwards  so  common  in  staking 
culinary  Peas.  When  the  haulm  is  covering  the  stakes  it  is  regulated 
and  kept  tied  to  them.  Although  it  takes  a  little  time  the  result  well 
pays  for  the  labour. 
The  mistakes  common  in  growing  Sweet  Peas  are  two — sowing  too 
thickly,  and  not  cutting  the  early  blooms  freely  enough.  By  avoiding 
these  errors  Sweet  Peas  can  be  had  in  an  unbroken  session  from  June 
until  the  plants  are  cut  by  frost.  The  flowers  are  admirably  adapted 
for  vases,  and  are  admired  by  all ;  and  now  that  we  can  have  them  on 
stems  15  inches  long  another  point  in  decorating  is  gained. 
Now  is  the  time  to  make  a  note  of  those  varieties  that  are  deserving 
of  extended  cultivation  so  that  an  early  start  may  be  made  next  season. 
The  middle  of  February  is  a  good  time  for  the  first  sowing,  and  if 
another  is  made  about  the  middle  of  May  the  plants  will  give  fine 
blooms  in  September,  w’nen  through  an  overcrop  of  seed-pods  the  earlier 
sown  plants  may  not  be  flowering  freely.  I  make  the  first  sowing  in 
pots  in  a  cold  frame,  and  .the  last  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to 
flower.  I  select  the  following  varieties  for  the  guidance  of  those  who 
have  not  grown  them,  and  although  the  list  may  appear  somewhat  long, 
those  who  require  a  good  collection  will  find  all  of  them  distinct  and 
meritorious. 
Emily  Henderson. — I  place  this  at  the  head  of  the  list,  as  in  point  of 
usefulness  I  consider  it  the  best.  The  blooms  are  freely  produced  on 
stout  stems,  and  being  pure  white  they  are  useful  for  bouquets  and 
wreaths.  The  habit  of  growth  is  vigorous,  yet  floriferous. 
Blanche  Burpee  has  round  flowers  without  the  notch  possessed  by 
Emily  Henderson.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  good  white  Sweet  Pea. 
Mrs.  Eokford. — In  my  opinion  this  is  one  of  the  most  charming 
varieties  in  cultivation  ;  it  is  the  nearest  approach  yet  obtained  to 
yellow.  Strictly  speaking,  it  is  primrose,  but  of  so  pleasing  a  hue  as  to 
meet  with  favour  wherever  seen,  and  very  floriferous. 
Firefly  is  much  the  best  of  the  bright  coloured  section  ;  it  is  a 
glowing  crimson  self,  with  just  a  tinge  of  purple  on  the  wings. 
Duchess  of  York. — This  is  far  and  away  the  best  of  the  faintly 
coloured  sorts,  pure  white  suffused  with  pale  pink  on  the  standards, 
which  deepens  as  the  autumn  advances.  This  has  a  vigorous  branching 
habit,  and  stout  flower  stems,  the  latter  carrying  three  blooms  each. 
Her  Majesty. — Very  showy,  and  is  a  valuable  sort  to  grow.  The 
flowers  are  produced  in  the  greatest  profusion,  colour  soft  rosy  pink, 
the  extreme  base  of  the  standards,  wings,  and  keel  being  white. 
Venus. — Salmon  buff  standards  shaded  with  rosy  pink,  but  have  an 
inward  curl  that  is  objectionable.  The  stems  are  long  and  stout, 
generally  bearing  three  blooms  each.  The  colour  of  this  variety  is 
unique. 
Countess  of  Aberdeen. — A  new  variety  and  a  distinct  gain,  in  colour 
a  full  pink.  The  back  of  the  standards  and  wings  edged  with  rose. 
The  stems  are  stout,  usually  carrying  two  blooms  each. 
Blushing  Beauty. — This  is  a  charming  variety,  and  as  its  name 
implies  it  is  blush  pink  in  colour. 
Royal  Robe. — Delicate  pink  or  warm  peach  colour  ;  at  first  it  is 
paler  than  Uountess  of  Aberdeen,  but  deepens  later.  As  the  flowers  are 
large  and  freely  produced  it  is  a  desirable  variety  to  grow. 
Mikado. — An  imposing  variety,  colour  deep  rose,  faintly  striped  with 
white. 
Lady  Grisel  Hamilton. — Pale  delicate  blue  ;  a  robust  variety  that  all 
should  grow. 
Mars. — Rose  red,  shaded  purple,  large  blooms,  and  produced  three 
on  a  stout  stem  ;  really  a  gorgeous  variety. 
Lovely. — Blush  pink,  shaded  rose  ;  a  charming  variety. 
Emily  Eckford.— One  ot  the  most  distinct  and  pleasing  varieties  in 
cultivation  ;  coerulean  blue  standards,  suffused  with  reddish  mauve. 
The  buds  are  dull  pink  or  lilac  at  first. 
Lady  Beacon.sfleld. — One  of  the  most  distinct  varieties  grown.  The 
standards  are  salmon  colour  tinted  with  rose,  wings  and  keel  pale 
yellow. 
Countess  of  Radnor. — Pale  mauve  standards,  with  a  deeper  shading 
of  the  same  colour,  wings  pale  lilac  at  first. 
Mrs.  Gladstone. — Still  one  of  the  best,  although  one  of  the  oldest  of 
the  named  kinds.  The  standards  are  delicate  pink,  the  blush-coloured 
wings  being  very  showy  ;  it  has  somewhat  short  flower  stems. 
Orange  Prince. — Light  orange  pink  standards,  flushed  with  red, 
wings  pale  rose,  showy  in  a  mass  ;  two  small  flowers  are  usually  borne 
on  each  stem. 
Duke  of  Clarence. — Large  blooms,  with  maroon  claret  standards, 
wings  purple  rose.  '■ 
Apple  Blossom, — White  standards,  veined  and  suffused  with  rose 
