236 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  5,  1895. 
by  seeds  or  divisions  of  the  roots  ;  but  by  seeds  is  the*  best  way,  as  they 
are  produced  abundantly.  However,  the  plants  so  raised  will  not  flower 
before  the  second  season  after  sowing.  It  was  raised  from  seed  received 
from  the  Honourable  East  India  Company,  through  Dr.  Koyle,  in  May, 
1839,  and  collected  in  Cashmere.  It  stood  out  last  winter  in  the  open 
border  without  any  protection.”  The  flowers  are  of  a  variable  metallic 
blue  tint,  the  centres  pink,  and  the  tube  pale  blue. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peacbes  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced,  Trees. — These  will 
soon  have  shed  their  leaves,  and  may  be  syringed  with  water  at  a 
temperature  of  140°.  It  must  not  be  used  carelessly  ;  if  too  hot  it  will 
injure  the  trees,  and  if  lower  in  temperature  it  is  useless  as  regards 
brown  aphis,  red  spider,  brown  scale,  and  thrips  ;  but  at  the  heat  named 
it  is  quite  safe  to  the  trees,  whilst  fatal  to  the  insects  it  reaches,  and  has 
a  cleansing  effect  on  the  whole  house,  which  should  be  treated  with  the 
hot  water  in  every  part.  The  trees  lieing  loosened  from  the  trellis,  and 
tied  in  small  bundles  for  facilitating  cleansing  operations,  wash  the  wood¬ 
work  with  a  brush  and  softsoap,  reaching  every  angle  and  crevice.  Lime- 
wash  the  walls,  and  if  required  paint  the  wood  and  ironwork.  Pruning 
will  be  a  light  affair,  merely  thinning  the  shoots  where  too  crowded  or 
too  weak  for  carrying  fine  fruits,  no  shortening  being  necessary  except 
for  the  production  of  shoots  for  furnishing  the  trees  with  bearing  wood. 
Wash  the  trees  with  an  insecticide,  or  a  solution  of  softsoap,  3  ozs.  to  a 
gallon  of  water,  using  a  brush,  and  being  careful  not  to  dislocate  the 
buds.  Tie  the  trees  to  the  trellis  loosely,  leaving  sufficient  room  for  the 
swelling  of  the  branches  and  shoots.  Remove  the  loose  surface  soil 
down  to  the  roots,  and  supply  a  couple  of  inches  depth  of  fresh  loam, 
containing  a  9-inch  potful  of  a  mixture  of  two  parts  wood  ashes  and  one 
part  bonemeal  to  every  barrowful.  Avoid  heavy  surface  mulchings  of 
manure  ,*  they  only  exclude  air.  If  the  lights  have  been  removed  they 
need  not  be  replaced  until  the  time  arrives  for  starting  the  trees,  as  with 
proper  drainage  the  borders  are  not  unduly  saturated  by  the  autumn 
rains  ;  but  where  the  drainage  is  not  thorough,  it  may  be  expedient  to 
replace  the  lights  before  the  borders  are  soddened  by  the  cold  autumnal 
rains.  For  very  early  forcing  Alexander  Peach  and  Rivers’  Early 
Nectarine  are  valuable.  Some  growers,  however,  object  to  Alexander 
Peach  as  notorious  for  dropping  its  buds,  and  insist  that  it  should  be 
grown  on  the  natural  system,  so  as  to  produce  fruit  on  spurs  and  stopped 
growths.  We  find  Early  Louise,  Stirling  Castle,  and  Royal  George 
Peaches,  with  Rivers’  Early  and  Stan  wick  Elruge  Nectarines,  thoroughly 
reliable  for  early  forcing. 
Second  Early  Fo^'ced  House. — The  trees  started  at  the  new  year  and 
ripening  their  crops  at  the  end  of  May  and  beginning  of  June  are  giving 
indications  of  maturing  the  foliage,  some  of  the  leaves  being  shed. 
Where  the  lights  were  removed  in  August  the  buds  are  well  plumped 
and  not  over-matured,  as  occurs  under  fixed  roofs,  especially  with  the 
large  flowered  varieties,  such  as  the  Early  York,  Grosse  Mignonne,  and 
Noblesse  races  of  Peaches.  If  the  trees  are  in  an  unsatisfactory  con¬ 
dition,  either  from  being  too  stunted  in  growth  on  the  one  hand  and 
too  vigorous  on  the  other  for  the  satisfactory  production  of  fruit,  they 
should  be  taken  in  hand  immediately  the  leaves  give  indications  of 
falling;  Weakly  trees  should  have  the  soil  removed  from  amongst  the 
roots  and  fresh  material  supplied,  so  as  to  encourage  root  formation 
■lunng  the  autumn,  and  by  thinning  the  shoots,  leaving  the  most  pro¬ 
mising  wood  for  bearing,  better  growths  and  crop  may  be  had  next  year. 
When  the  trees  are  too  vigorous,  making  long-jointed  and  sappy 
growths,  they  should  be  carefully  lifted  when  some  of  the  leaves  have 
fallen,  shading  the  house  and  exposing  the  roots  as  little  as  possible  ; 
then  rectify  the  drainage,  making  it  thorough  and  providing  fresh  com¬ 
post  or  mixing  suitable  material  with  the  old,  such  as  fresh  loam,  old 
mortar  rubbish  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  calcareous  matter,  or 
when  loose  adding  a  fair  amount  of  clayey  marl  dried  and  pounded.  In 
replanting  lay  the  roots  within  the  top  foot  of  border,  spreading  them 
out  evenly  in  layers  with  soil  between,  having  the  topmost  not  more 
deeply  covered  than  3  inches,  making  the  soil  firm  about  and  over 
the  fibres,  giving  a  good  watering  so  as  to  settle  it  about  tbem.  An 
occasional  light  syringing  will  be  of  benefit  to  the  wood  and  remaining 
foliage,  but  there  must  not  be  any  attempt  at  keeping  the  house  close  so 
as  to  induce  growth,  gradually  withdrawing  the  shade  and  admitting 
air.  A  light  mulching  of  sweetened  horse  droppings  or  thoroughly 
decayed  manure  will  be  of  service  in  enriching  the  surface  soil  and 
attracting  the  roots  to  working  therein.  When  the  leaves  are  all  down 
treat  in  the  manner  as  advised  for  the  earliest  house  except  as  regards 
the  border  where  renovation  or  lifting  has  been  resorted  to. 
Midseason  Houses.— from  which  the  fruit  has  been  gathered 
should  have  the  bearing  wood  of  the  current  year  cut  out,  always  except¬ 
ing  parts  needful  for  extension.  This  will  admit  of  the  trees  being 
thoroughly  cleansed  by  syringing,  and  if  necessary  applying  an  insecticide, 
it  being  of  the  greatest  importance  that  the  trees  retain  the  fol’age  clean 
and  healthy  until  the  buds  are  thoroughly  formed  and  the  wood  properly 
matured.  This  will  he  assisted  by  the  increased  light  and  air.  If  the 
growths  are  too  crowded  thin  them,  leaving  sufficient  wood  for  next 
year’s  bearing.  It  is  better  removed  now  than  at  the  winter  pruning. 
The  remaining  parts  are  benefited,  and  there  is  less  danger  of  inducing 
gumming.  Ventilate  freely,  and  afford  water  as  required  to  keep  the 
soil  duly  moistened  to  the  drainage. 
Any  trees  that  have  a  tendency  to  over-luxuriance  should,  as  soon  as 
the  wood  is  sufficiently  firm,  have  a  trench  taken  out  one-third  the 
distance  from  the  stem  the  trees  cover  in  trellis,  and  quite  down  to  the 
drainage,  so  as  to  detach  all  roots,  and  this  may  be  left  open  for  a  fort¬ 
night,  then  the  soil  may  be  removed  down  to  the  roots  and  picked  from 
amongst  them  with  a  fork,  laying-in  the  fibres  in  fresh  compost,  good 
loam,  stiff  rather  than  light  being  the  best,  with  about  a  sixth  of  old 
mortar  rubbish.  If  a  good  watering  be  given  the  roots  will  soon  grow 
freely  in  the  fresh  material,  and  the  fruits  invariably  set  well  afterwards. 
In  removing  the  soil  care  must  be  taken  not  to  disturb  the  roots  enough 
to  cause  the  sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage.  The  above  plan  is  more 
especially  necessary  with  young  trees,  the  taking  out  of  the  trench  being 
very  effectual  in  assisting  the  wood  to  ripen  thoroughly.  Defer  root- 
pruning  and  lifting  until  the  leaves  give  indications  of  falling. 
Late  Houses. — The  fruit  is  swelling  well  and  liberal  supplies  of 
water  are  required  until  the  ripening  is  well  advanced,  when  moderate 
supplies  will  be  sufficient ;  enough,  however,  should  be  given  to  main¬ 
tain  the  foliage  in  a  healthy  state.  Trees  that  are  making  gross  growths 
and  have  a  tendency  to  late  growth  should  be  marked  for  lifting,  an 
infallible  remedy  for  indifferent  setting  and  uncertainty  of  stoning.  A 
circulation  of  air  is  necessary  at  night  and  free  ventilation  in  the  day¬ 
time.  If  kept  too  warm  and  dry  the  fruit  is  apt  to  be  deficient  in  juice. 
If  the  fruit  is  backward  sun  heat  may  be  utilised,  allowing  the  tempera¬ 
ture  to  rise  to  85°  or  90°,  but  with  free  ventilation  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  this  being  of  infinitely  more  value  than  fire  heat  at  a  later  period. 
Keep  the  wood  thin,  stop  any  growing  shoots  to  about  15  inches,  and 
all  laterals  closely  to  one  joint  as  growth  is  made. 
Melons. — In  order  to  enhance  the  flavour  of  the  fruit  maintain  a 
brisk  heat  by  day  with  sufficient  ventilation  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air 
constantly.  Keep  water  from  the  house  when  the  fruit  commences 
ripening,  yet  not  allowing  the  foliage  to  flag  for  lack  of  it  at  the  roots, 
but  no  more  than  necessary  to  prevent  this  should  be  supplied.  Plants 
swelling  their  fruit  should  be  assisted  with  weak  liquid  manure  when¬ 
ever  they  become  dry.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  hand,  also  a  sharp  look 
out  for  canker,  rubbing  quicklime  into  the  affected  parts,  repealing  as 
the  parts  become  moist  by  exudation  or  spread  of  the  canker,  for  it  is 
next  to  hopeless  striving  to  avert  the  evil  at  this  late  period  of  the 
season,  except  so  far  as  to  secure  the  ripening  of  the  fruits.  If  there  is 
any  fear  of  cracked  fruits  cut  the  stems  about  half  way  through  a  little 
below  each  fruit.  It  will  check  the  flow  of  sap.  P>ut  the  chief  cause 
of  cracking  is  a  moist  atmosphere,  causing  the  deposition  of  moisture  on 
the  fruit  during  Jhe  night  and  in  dull  leather,  especially  after  a  period 
of  bright  sun.  Ventilate  freely,  and  keep  the  air  moderately  dry  by  a 
little  ventilation  constantly,  as  a  preventive  of  canker  and  cracking. 
Latest  Plants. — These  are  now  well  up  the  trellis  and  showing  fruit 
blossoms,  which  should  be  fertilised  daily  when  fully  expanded,  the 
atmosphere  being  kept  dry,  a  little  ventilation  being  given  at  night  so 
as  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air  and  prevent  the  deposition  of  water  on 
the  flowers.  Stop  the  shoots  at  the  time  of  fertilisation  one  joint 
beyond  the  fruit.  As  soon  as  a  sufficient  number  of  fruits  are  set  on  a 
plant  remove  all  the  staminate  and  pistillate  flowers,  reducing  the  fruit 
to  three  or  four  on  a  plant,  or  according  to  their  vigour.  Earth  up  the 
roots  after  the  fruit  is  fairly  swelling,  and  be  careful  in  syringing  the 
foliage,  only  doing  it  on  fine  afternoons,  but  maintain  a  genial  condition 
of  the  atmosphere  by  damping  in  the  morning  and  afternoon.  Be 
careful  not  to  give  too  much  water,  hut  encourage  healthy  root  action 
by  moderate  moisture  in  the  soil.  The  temperature  may  be  maintained 
at  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  with 
65°  to  70°  at  nieht. 
Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames. — These  will  not  require  much  further 
damping  over  the  foliage,  and  should  only  have  sufficient  moisture  in 
the  soil  to  prevent  the  foliage  flagging,  which  should  be  kept  rather  thin, 
and  the  fruit  well  elevated  above  it  on  flower  pots.  Each  fruit  should  be 
placed  on  a  piece  of  slate,  applying  good  linings  for  affording  the 
requisite  heat  to  finish  the  fruit  satisfactorily,  maintaining  also  a  dry 
atmosphere  with  free  ventilation. 
Strawberries  in  Pots.— Late  runners  may  yet  be  potted,  giving^ 
them  5  or  6-iach  pots,  and  if  these  are  filled  with  roots  before  winter 
the  plants  will  produce  good  fruit,  though  not  so  plentifully  or  large  as 
those  potted  earlier,  nor  are  they  available  for  early  forcing,  but  they  do 
well  for  succession,  esoecially  whm  brought  forward  geutly.  Plants 
potted  some  time  ago  should  be  eximined,aad  if  making  side  buds  these 
should  be  removed  with  a  pointed  lyiece  of  hard  wood  so  as  to  throw  the 
vigour  into  the  central  crown.  IE  the  plants  grow  vigorously  liquid 
manure  will  not  be  necessary,  but  those  tnat  are  weakly  should  be  sup¬ 
plied  with  it  twice  a  week.  Remove  all  runners  as  they  appear  and 
loosen  the  surface  of  the  soil,  especially  round  the  sides  of  tfie  pots,  so 
as  to  secure  the  more  thorough  moistening  of  the  ball.  As  the  plants 
grow  set  the  pots  wider  apart.  If  red  spider  attacks  the  plants  hold 
each  inverted  with  one  hand,  and  with  the  other  dust  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves  with  soot  from  a  dredger. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Propagating  Zonal  Pelargoniums.  —  During  the  dull,  wet 
weather  in  July  and  August  much  soft,  sappy  growth  was  made  by  the 
