Septtmler  12,  1895. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
261 
be  gained  from  the  examination  o!  a  feV,  or  the  tendency  of  the  fruit 
to  fall  more  freely  than  usual.  .a 
IIow  to  Gather, — In  gathering  fruit  choose  a  period  when  the  weather 
is  dry  and  no  moisture  hangs  about  the  foliage  or  fruit.  Place  the  best 
samples  carefully  in  baskets  lined  with  soft  material,  so  as  not  to  bruise 
them.  Bruises  rupture  the  cells  below  the  outer  skin  and  cause  decay 
there,  which  is  greatly  accelerated  when  the  skin  is  broken.  Gather 
small  fruits  separately  from  the  large,  and  those  that  are  grub-eaten, 
owing  to  the  attacks  of  the  Codlin  moth,  keep  distinct  from  either. 
Many  of  the  latter  fall  prematurely,  and  ought  to  be  speedily  collected 
for  immediate  use,  the  worthless  examples  being  burnt. 
Storing  Fruit. — A  moderately  cool  and  dry  room  should  be  selected 
for  storing,  or  a  properly  arranged  fruit  room,  where  a  temperature 
in  winter  can  be  maintained  at  40°  to  45°.  Place  the  fruit  in  single 
layers,  either  on  shelves,  in  drawers,  or  shallow  boxes.  Storage  in  this 
manner  facilitates  examination,  which  must  be  frequent,  in  order  to 
remove  at  once  any  decaying  specimens.  Afford  ventilation  constantly 
for  a  short  period  after  storing  a  quantity  of  fruit,  so  that  the  moisture 
given  off  by  it  may  find  means  of  escape.  Avoid,  however,  the  entrance 
of  cold,  drying  draughts,  which  prove  injurious.  If  possible,  keep  the 
fruit  in  darkness.  If  placed  in  a  slightly  increased  temperature  for  a 
short  time  Pears  approaching  maturity  are  greatly  assisted  in  ripening 
and  the  development  of  flavour.  It  is  only  necessary  to  treat  a  few  at 
a  time  for  the  final  finishing,  according  to  the  demand. 
Peaches,  Apricots,  aud  ITectarlnes. — Those  trees  from  which 
the  fruit  has  been  gathered  should  have  all  shoots  that  have  borne  fruits 
removed.  The  succession  shoots,  carefully  reserved  for  this  purpose, 
may  be  trained  in  their  place.  This  refurnishes  the  wall  or  trellis,  and 
at  the  same  time  affords  sufficient  space  for  the  wood  to  ripen.  In 
addition  to  the  laying  in  of  young  shoots  spurs  may  be  encouraged  to 
form  in  suitable  positions,  such  being  found  on  the  lace  of  the  branches 
where  any  superfluous  growths  require  shortening  back.  Cut  back  now 
to  four  leaves  and  closer  in  winter.  Do  not  retain  too  many  branches, 
so  as  to  avoid  establishing  a  crowd  of  growths.  Thinly  placed  they 
will  add  to  the  productiveness  of  the  trees,  otherwise  they  are  injurious. 
With  Apricots  give  preference  to  the  naturally  formed  spurs,  which  are 
produced  more  freely  than  on  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  When  trees  of 
ihe  latter  require  spurs  forming  it  is  usually  done  artificially  ;  but  they 
are  not  really  essential,  young  wood  annually  laid  in  being  capable  of 
producing  the  best  crops.  Lay  in  leading  shoots  at  full  length. 
Watering. — Trees  on  walls,  and  often  those  in  other  positions, 
suffer  considerably  at  this  period  if  the  soil  is  deficient  in  moisture 
about  the  roots.  The  full  development  and  maturing  of  the  buds 
depends  largely  on  the  food  derived  from  the  soil  which  cannot  provide 
the^  essential  materials  unless  it  is  moist,  and  not  always  then  if  poor 
in  quality.  Should  the  latter  be  the  case  liquid  manure  would  be  of 
benefit,  but  the  soil  must  be  first  well  moistened  down  to  the  lowest 
roots  before  any  stimulant  is  applied.  Moisture  and  food  for  the  roots 
preserve  the  foliage  in  good  condition,  preventing  its  premature  ripening 
and  falling.  Insect  pests,  too,  become  less  prevalent,  especially  if  the 
foliage  is  regularly  syringed  with  an  occasional  application  of  an  insecti¬ 
cide  as  a  destroyer  of  insect  enemies. 
Stopping  Secondary  Growths. — Apples,  Pears,  and  Plums  that 
were  summer  pruned  early  frequently  make  secondary  or  sub-lateral 
growths  from  the  upper  buds  of  the  shortened  shoots.  Before  these 
advance  far  prune  them  back  to  the  first  leaf  of  the  new  growth  made. 
Raspberries. — The  young  canes  for  future  bearing  should  be 
limited  to  four  or  six,  according  to  the  strength  of  each  stool,  cutting 
away  at  once  the  whole  of  the  old  bearing  canes,  which,  if  left  after 
fruiting,  only  obstruct  light  and  air  reaching  the  young  growths.  Fork 
up  strong  weeds  in  the  spaces  between  the  plants,  and  hoe  down  seed¬ 
lings.  If  opportunity  offers  afford  liquid  manure  to  the  roots,  which 
will  strengthen  the  buds  and  replenish  the  supplies  of  food  in  the  soil. 
Failing  liquid  nourishment,  mulch  over  the  roots  with  manure,  Easp- 
berries  delighting  in  rich  and  abundant  fare. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. — For  Early  Forcinq  in  Pots. — The  Vines  for  starting  in 
November  to  afford  ripe  Grapes  by  the  close  of  March  or  early  in  April 
should  now  be  at  rest,  but  not  necessarily  leafless,  yet  have  the  laterals 
cut  close  and  the  cane  shortened  to  the  desired  length,  about  6  feet, 
according  to  the  situation  of  the  plump  buds  and  condition  of  the  wood 
as  to  ripeness  and  the  position  to  be  occupied.  Water  must  not  be 
withheld  to  the  extent  of  causing  the  leaves  to  fall  prematurely,  and 
after  they  are  down  sufficient  moisture  in  the  soil  as  to  keep  the  roots 
fresh  and  the  wood  from  shrivelling  is  necessary,  avoiding  watering  to 
the  extent  of  making  the  soil  wet,  as  a  somewhat  dry  condition  of  the 
rooting  medium  is  advisable  during  the  resting  period  and  in  the  early 
stages  of  forcing.  Where  the  Vines  have  to  be  bought  in  a  selection 
should  be  made  or  orders  placed  without  delay.  Foster’s  Seedling  is  the 
best  white  Grape  for  early  forcing,  and  Black  Hamburgh  the  most 
profitable  black.  Madresfield  Court,  however,  forces  satisfactorily,  and 
when  well  grown  gives  excellent  returns.  Attempts  at  forcing  Muscat  of 
Alexandria  in  pots  have  not  been  very  successful ;  but  on  the  planted 
out  system  it  and  Madresfield  Court,  started  in  December  so  as  to  ripen 
the  Grapes  by  May  or  early  in  J une,  afford  satisfaction  to  both  con¬ 
sumers  and  growers. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — The  Vines  for  starting  at  the 
beginning  of  December  to  ripen  Grapes  fit  for  table  by  late  April  or 
early  in  May  should  be  pruned,  it  not  being  necessary  to  wait  until 
the  leaves  are  down,  for  when  the  maturation  of  the  foliage  has  set 
in  there  is  no  danger  of  starting  the  buds  provided  the  atmosphere 
be  cool  and  dry  and  the  soil  in  a  moderately  moist  condition.  The 
pruning  must  be  discriminate,  always  being  to  a  plump  bud  on  well- 
ripened  wood,  and  the  previous  doings  of  the  Vines  taken  into  con¬ 
sideration  will, afford  a  safe  guide  as  to  the  desirability  for  close  or  long 
pruning.  Usually  pruning  to  two  buds  is  most  satisfactory  as  regards 
compactness  of  bunch  and  finish  ;  but  where  the  bunches  come  too 
small  or  too/few  the  pruning  may  be  to  three  or  four  buis,  so  as  to 
secure  choice  of  more  and  larger  clusters.  This  is  where  the  mischief 
usually  comes  in,  for  the  greater  show  of  fruit  is  not  reduced  to  the 
capabilities  of  the  Vines,  and  the  Grapes  often  finish  badly,  being  red 
instead  of  black,  and  the  loss  from  shanking  sometimes  causing  'the 
results  to.be  worse  than  from  the  lighter  crop.  The  house  and  Vines 
should  be  thoroughly  cleansed  after  the  pruning  and  fall  of  the  leaves. 
The  woodwork  iind  ironwork  should  be  well  washed  with  soap  (soft, 
petroleum,  or  carbolic),  it  being  best  to  use  a  solution,  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon 
of  water,  and  a  brush,  cleansing  the  glass  with  clear  water.  This  will 
remove  (the  germs  of  fungal  parasites  and  the  eggs  of  insects,  even 
destroying  any  hibernating  pests,  whilst  softening  the  outer  bark  of 
the  Vines.  This  is  cast  in  Nature,  and  there  is  no  harm  in  removing 
the  loose,  always  being  careful  not  to  strip  the  rods  too  closely,  and 
avoiding  peeling  and  scraping  into  the  living  bark.  A  simple  wash  of 
the  solution  of  soap  before  mentioned  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  destroying 
hibernating  insects,  that  which  is  best  administered  being  best.  Where 
the  Vines  have  been,  or  there  is  a  suspicion  of  their  being  attacked  by 
fungal  parasites  the  rods  may  be  washed  with  a  solution  of  sulphate  of 
iron,  10  per  cent.  (1  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water)  for  young  Vines,  and 
15  per  cent.  (1 J  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water)  for  old  rods,  applying  carefully 
with  a  brush.  The  walls  should  be  limewashed,  and  the  loose  surface 
soil  removed  from  the  border,  supplying  a  little  fresh  loam  and  a  top- 
dressing  of  a  substantial  fertiliser.  The  house  should  be  kept  as  cool  as 
possible,  no  water  being  given  to  the  border  whilst  it  remains  moderately 
moist,  but  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  parched  and  cracked. 
Lijting  Unsatisfactory  Early  Vines. — The  sooner  this  is  done  after 
the  wood  is  mature  and  the  buds  plumped  the  better,  but  it  must  not  be 
attempted  whilst  there  is  doubt  of  that  being  effected.  It  is  advisable, 
however,  to  perform  work  of  this  kind  whilst  the  leaves  are  upon  the 
Vines.  Good  loam  with  some  brick  and  lime  rubbish  and  an  admixture 
of  charcoal  “  nuts  ”  will  meet  all  requirements  in  respect  of  compost. 
Enriching  materials  are  matter  for  judgment,  and  provided  the  staple 
is  all  right  are  best  supplied  at  the  surface  in  the  shape  of  top-dressings. 
Perfect  drainage  is  imperative,  the  border  having  a  drain  or  drains  with 
proper  fall  and  outlet  to  carry  off  superfluous  water.  A  foot  thickness 
of  clean  rubble,  roughest  at  the  bottom  and  finest — about  the  size  of 
road  metal — on  the  top,  being  placed  in,  follow  with  turf  sods,  grass 
side  downwards,  or  a  3-inch  layer  of  old  mortar  rubbish  freed  of  all 
laths  or  other  pieces  of  wood.  Keep  the  roots  near  the  surface,  placing 
them  in  the  top  12  inches  of  compost  and  in  layers,  the  topmost  not 
covered  deeper  than  3  inches,  always  bearing  in  mind  that  a  shallow 
(24  to  27  inches)  and  narrow  border  well  filled  with  roots  is  preferable 
to  a  large  mass  of  soil  at  the  onset,  as  the  roots  can  be  more  easily 
excited  and  fed  at  the  proper  time.  Choose  dry  weather  for  operating, 
and  have  the  material  in  good  working  order,  neither  too  wet  nor  too 
dry,  but  moderately  moist.  Cover  the  border  when  finished  with  about 
an  inch  thickness  of  stable  manure,  the  strawy  portions  being  shaken  out, 
and  keep  the  house  close  and  rather  moist  until  the  Vines  recover  from 
the  lifting,  as  they  will  in  a  few  days,  pushing  roots  freely,  especially  if 
the  older  ones  are  notched,  as  soon  after  then  calluses  will  be  formed  from 
which  roots  proceed  in  due  course,  then  ventilate  freely  and  keep  the 
atmosphere  dry.  Early  vines  should  have  inside  borders,  and  where 
these  are  both  outside  and  inside  the  roots  may  be  lifted  in  one  only  at  a 
time,  so  as  not  to  prejudice  the  following  year’s  crop. 
Young  Vines. — The  foliage  must  be  kept  clean,  so  as  to  fully  per¬ 
form  its  functions,  and  laterals  after  this  be  closely  pinched  or  removed, 
as  they  merely  attract  the  sap  and  stimulate  root  action,  often  inducing 
late  growth,  and  frustrating  the  ripening  of  the  wood.  Maintain  a  warm, 
well-ventilated  atmosphere  until  the  canes  are  ripe.  The  maturing  of 
the  foliage  and  wood  may  be  accelerated  by  keeping  the  house  rather 
close  in  the  day,  so  as  to  secure  a  temperature  of  85°  to  90°  from  sun 
heat,  opening  the  ventilators  at  night.  Any  supernumeraries  intended  to 
fruit  next  season  should  have  the  laterals  cut  away  to  the  principal  bads, 
leaving,  however,  an  outlet  for  any  excess  of  sap  by  a  few  laterals  at 
the  top  of  the  cane,  and  be  careful  not  to  injure  the  principal  leaves. 
Houses  of  Ri])e  Grapes, — Midseason  houses  often  contain  a  motley 
assemblage,  both  thin  and  thick-skinned  Grapes  being  grown  in  the 
same  structure ;  the  consequence  is  the  first  often  fall  a  prey  to  spot 
fungus  from  the  keeping  of  the  atmosphere  too  close,  as  the  Grapes 
seldom  ripen  together,  so  that  the  one  cannot  have  the  essential  cool¬ 
ness  and  dryness  necessary  for  their  sound  keeping,  and  the  other  the 
warmth  and  moisture  required  for  their  satisfactory  finishing.  If  the 
house  is  kept  cool  and  dry  the  thin-skinned  Grapes  are  excellent,  but 
these  sometimes  finish  badly,  some  neither  colouring  nor  remaining 
plump.  There  is  no  compromising  matters,  and  the  results  are  neither 
satisfactory  to  the  grower  nor  to  the  consumer.  Market  growers  never 
make  such  blunders  as  are  common  in  private  establishments,  as  the 
produce  has  to  be  sold,  when  there  is  an  awakening  to  the  fact  that 
marketing  methods  are  purely  commercial  and  fancies  excluded.  With 
the  Grapes  ripe  gradually  reduce  the  strong  laterals  as  the  days  decline 
in  length,  and  keep  the  leaves  healthy  by  means  of  a  proper  supply  of 
moisture  to  the  borders  in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  Black  Ham  burghs 
and  other  thin-skinned  black  Grapes  are  liable  to  have  the  colour 
taken  out  of  them  by  hanging  under  powerful  sun.  Some  netting 
